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Apr 06, 2004, 01:49 PM
Crazy bubble-head!
Nemo's Avatar
Nice job!

I know what you mean about her performance.

If I can offer some advice? Perhaps you could look at extending your dive plane shafts outside the side keels and adding clear plexi control surfaces there. The stock Nautilus planes are next to useless to control her trim.

Also... rework your linkages so that the planes run opposite each other (IE: forward planes dive, rear planes surface). I have configures my Nautilus this way, and it seems to help a lot.

I find that, properly ballasted, my model will dive herself. I get up a decent turn of speed with my tanks flooded, and she will gradually pull downwards. I can set my throttle to a certain point where she holds perfeclty level just under the water, creating a really cool ripple on the surface.

If you have any more pics of your model, I'd love to see them. I collect pics of other people's Nautilus projects, and I have plans of making a wepage dedicated to all of the other models that I've collected pictures of in the near future.

I'd love to talk regarding your model's performance. I'm sure with a bit of reworking, she'd be a fine and eye-catching model. E-mail me at bob@rc-sub.com and we can talk more.
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Apr 06, 2004, 11:56 PM
EDF Jet Jam 2017, June 15-18th
eatond's Avatar
Quote:
Nice job!
Thanks Nemo, you have a very nice looking Nautilus also.

Quote:
I know what you mean about her performance.

If I can offer some advice? Perhaps you could look at extending your dive plane shafts outside the side keels and adding clear plexi control surfaces there. The stock Nautilus planes are next to useless to control her trim.
I always welcome advice. I looked at extending the shafts but decided against it becase of the looks. Looks ok in the water but I couldn't come up with a good way of hiding the shafts when it was out of the water. Part of this thing's job is to sit on the mantle and look cool.

Quote:
Also... rework your linkages so that the planes run opposite each other (IE: forward planes dive, rear planes surface). I have configures my Nautilus this way, and it seems to help a lot.

I find that, properly ballasted, my model will dive herself. I get up a decent turn of speed with my tanks flooded, and she will gradually pull downwards. I can set my throttle to a certain point where she holds perfeclty level just under the water, creating a really cool ripple on the surface
I got close. Between playing with the dive planes and the natural force of that pointy front end I could get the front end to dive but then the prop would partially lift from the water and that would be the end of that. I intended to add a ballast tank that would let me kill off a little more of the positive bouyancy. Never got around to it but from your description that sounds like what you ended up doing. Can you tell me a little more about how you have your sub set up?

I'll try to post some more pictures tomorrow. This sub's got a lot of sentamental value to me. I had a good friend and mentor who started building one. The day I visited him he was feeling a little down so to cheer him up I asked him if I could build one too. He's gone now but I learned a lot from him and I have the sub to remind me of the good times we shared.


Dan Eaton
Last edited by eatond; Apr 07, 2004 at 12:17 AM.
Apr 07, 2004, 10:07 AM
Crazy bubble-head!
Nemo's Avatar
Dan,


You can access a full write-up on my project, with pictures, at The Nautilus Drydocks.

My sub is a full static diver, ballasted slightly negative when flooded. Her tank is about five inches long and six in diameter. She is set up with automatic levelling device (connected to the planes), automatic depth keeper (not connected), auto failsafe system (to ballast servo), 25A speed controller, and more!

SHe's powered by the electric motor from a vehicle's radiator. Excellent motor with 10 poles and tons of torque for that 3.75" diameter prop.

I'm in the process of adding non-authentic dive planes aft of the propellor to aid in controlling her trim when under full speed. These planes are easily removed with four small bolts hidden just behind the trailing edge of the side-keels. With the addition of these planes, I should have complete control over this awesome-looking sub. I intentionally modelled them in the same character as the rest of the sub, rivets and all. Only a die-hard Nautilus fan can tell that they're not supposed to be there.

I'll have pics of the new planes posted to my site shortly (say next Monday).

I'm looking forward to seeing more shots of your Nautilus.


Bob Martin
Apr 09, 2004, 04:46 AM
Registered User

british x-craft


reliable small x-craft (metcalf-mouldings.com)

Brüggen pump dive-system, with 250ml. Baxter bag

greetings from Austria

jimi
Apr 11, 2004, 12:37 PM
SlowStick Test Pilot
patrickegan's Avatar
Man these boats are so cool! It was against my better judgment that I even looked!!! Patrick
Apr 25, 2004, 05:25 PM
Registered User
reaper's Avatar
in the making.....SSN 585 Skipjack
May 01, 2004, 12:56 PM
Twin SCREWS
i was looking at getting into subs, how much wud it be to outfit a good kit, i mean TOTAL COST including batteries ( i have a charger and 6 cell batts)
May 02, 2004, 12:48 AM
Registered User
Hell of a job!!! shows what a real craftsmens can do.
Last edited by charles2345; May 02, 2004 at 12:51 AM.
May 13, 2004, 03:58 PM
FAA
FAA
Master Model Collector
FAA's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeaVillain
i was looking at getting into subs, how much wud it be to outfit a good kit, i mean TOTAL COST including batteries ( i have a charger and 6 cell batts)

$2000 . (Forget your charger and batteries. Different league here.)
May 13, 2004, 04:32 PM
Crazy bubble-head!
Nemo's Avatar
Depends on what you want and how much you want to spend.

There are some entry level kits put out by companies like Subtech and Small World Models that would run between $700 and $900 all in. You'd be looking at a smaller model with a vac formed hull, not much detail, but a solid performer.

FAA's right with his estimation, though. Once you step into the higher end kits, you're looking at around $400 for the hull, another $500 for your WTC. Say another $500 in electronics (APC, AFS, ADC, etc...), plus another $300 for a decent radio. That puts you upwards of $1700, not including misc. materials you'll need to build her up (paint, glues, epoxies, etc...).

Hit the high-end hits like the OTW Type VII and you'll be forking out around $1200 for the hull. The only Disney Nautilus kit that I know of in a decent scale is around $1800.

Even scratch-building your hull will only save you around $300 or so, plus you typically won't be getting the same quality of product as what the professionals can put out (there are some exceptions, I know).

You can get away from this by going with a dynamic diver, but a lot of people don't really count these as 'true' RC subs. They are far simpler, and hence cheaper to build, but have a lot of limitations that you'll need to live with.

Hope this helps.

BTW.. I'm using a honkin' 12V, 12Ah sealed lead acid battery in my Nautilus.
Jun 14, 2004, 08:00 PM
Registered User

80 In.pt-19 Kit By Pilot


Does anyone out there have or know where I can obtain one?
Jun 14, 2004, 11:10 PM
Registered User
reaper's Avatar

alfa time.....


gonna make a couple of alfas...
Jun 21, 2004, 10:07 AM
Crazy bubble-head!
Nemo's Avatar

Nautilus video clip


I'm not sure if anyone here has seen this or not, but I'll post it just in case. I took this video at nearby Thetis Lake a while back. It shows my model at rest, gathering a bit of speed, and then diving as it passes the camera. When it passes, it's at about 1/3 throttle.

Check it out: Nautilus video (approx 8.75mb)

Note the working lights in all of the applicable locations as she passes.

I love my model.
Jun 21, 2004, 12:06 PM
AustinTatious
AustinTatious's Avatar
I wanna see RAMMING speed!
Jun 21, 2004, 01:55 PM
Registered User
here's my sub! just finished a few hours ago!

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_19...tm.htm#1921950
Last edited by petn7; Jun 22, 2004 at 03:28 PM.


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