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Aug 19, 2014, 11:40 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
hm ... I think one can't expect to get such a piece of hardware like the STorM32 for nothing (which 35$ is) and simultaneously expect serious quality control...
It is a very good deal. If you think the issue might be Witespy's supply chain, do you have another vendor you can recommend for a replacement camera IMU?

Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
I'm still very confused by the info you transmit ... they are too incomplete for me to piece the story together, please try to be more precise
I read from that, that you also had tuning problems already with the v0.33?
I read from that, that the tuning problems got worse with going from v0.38e to v0.39e?
Also, it's totally unclear to which situations you refer to, with 2nd IMU or without 2nd IMU activated, with calibration or without calibration, and so on... (the tuning should be done with the 2nd IMU off)

If you had tuning issues already with v0.33 I rather would suspect your gimbal hardware, vibrations, balance etc. - this is at least what all experience gathered so far very clearly tells (I can't remember a case where a tuning problem was really due to the controller)

Do you get these shakes in the video also on the ground (with copter off) or just in flight?
I had started PID tuning on 0.33 firmware, but didn't yet have it quite where I liked. I was still getting some shake in flight, as you can see from my YouTube channel. I do have some minor vibration issues with my frame, but they did not seem to be preventing me from getting good stabilization most of the time. The shakes were mostly in the pitch axis, and seem to be worse when flying forward or backwards - which make me suspect that the cables might be experiencing wind loading and throwing off the balance. Now it turns out the IMU might just be bad, so who knows.

Anyway, the shaking (whether it's PID related or not) is neither better nor worse with the new firmware, and I haven't played with the PID settings any more since upgrading to the latest firmware. I've been trying to figure out what causes the camera to jump to the right, instead of working on the shake issues.
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Aug 19, 2014, 12:11 PM
OlliW
Thread OP
@francischie:
thx for this feedback, very helpful ... sounds a bit like IAmKiloman's issue
it seems that the consistency checker can develop an instability in conditions which are mostly seen in flight ... hm ... not yet perfect, but hey ... and where are all the handheld users all of a sudden

@IAmKiloman:
Thanks a lot for these details, I think I understand now
I still don't think that the IMU is your source of shakes (but I may of course be wrong)
from looking at the part of your setup visible in the photo I would think that there is still room for significant improvement ... the way how the gimbal is mounted certainly amplifies any vibrations of the copter and the vibration damper look quite stiff ... I also tend to think that with these printed gimbals not enough attention is drawn to the issue of balancing, and balancing becomes the more important the smaller the camera is, and even more so in the presence of vibrations of wind disturbances. This would be the 3 points I would look at further. (your cable guess is also a good point too).
(although I understand all the 3D excitement - I'm also not yet convinced that this "soft plastic" is the best choice for copter-gimbal constructions, I mean, stiffness is important here, and its hard to beat metal or cfk - but that's another story)
Quote:
If you think the issue might be Witespy's supply chain, do you have another vendor you can recommend for a replacement camera IMU?
I don't think it's an issue with witespy (unless many start to report now such dudes), I think the issue is that all these mpu modules at the end come from the same Asian sources, and we all want them cheap ... i.e., IMHO it doesn't matter much where you buy them (for us hobbiests) ... I would rather recommend to buy several ...
Aug 19, 2014, 01:37 PM
Registered User
francischie's Avatar
I agree with Olliw. The IMU that came with witespy version is the same mini IMU from nulled(clone) Alexmos that I have.

I also have genuine Alexmos with IMU that is different (bigger board).

Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
@francischie:
....
I don't think it's an issue with witespy (unless many start to report now such dudes), I think the issue is that all these mpu modules at the end come from the same Asian sources, and we all want them cheap ... i.e., IMHO it doesn't matter much where you buy them (for us hobbiests) ... I would rather recommend to buy several ...
Aug 19, 2014, 02:10 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by francischie View Post
I agree with Olliw. The IMU that came with witespy version is the same mini IMU from nulled(clone) Alexmos that I have.
Fair enough. I just ordered two more IMUs from witespy; I'll make sure to do a 6 point calibration on them when they arrive. I can post the calibration figures for all three, if that would be useful.
Aug 19, 2014, 03:31 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by francischie View Post
Hi Olliw,

Just want report some of my findings to the 2nd IMU. When the gimbal is sometimes encountered shakes it forget where the front facing. Happen to me twice when landing where the quad was touching the ground and produce some shakes. The yaw will jerk and then won't return to front facing and require reboot.

Should the 2nd IMU makes the front facing persistant after it was nitialized regardless of the resistant like on your demo video? By the way I can't reproduce it on table if I put some resistant with my hand.
I experienced exactly the same!


For everyone who is interested in my Gimbal:

Here is a link to Thingiverse where you will find all .stl files:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:421763
You can print it here:
https://www.shapeways.com/model/2295...?materialId=25

This version has not been printed yet. I can not garantee that all parts will fit perfectly.

Regards Daniel
Aug 19, 2014, 03:56 PM
Registered User
francischie's Avatar
Nice. What is the total weight of the gimbal? I have some spare motors with hallow shaft, I might build with clean wire version of yours later.

Also I haven't done any shapeways printout. In your experience what is the difference in weight between home 3d printer (ABS, PLA) and shapeways SLS (I'm thinking this is 100% fill). Does it affect your gimbal balancing on 3 axis?

Would also be nice if you can post some sample flight video.

I turned-off the 2nd IMU, I dont see much use on quad right now.



Quote:
Originally Posted by digaus View Post
I experienced exactly the same!


For everyone who is interested in my Gimbal:

Here is a link to Thingiverse where you will find all .stl files:
http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:421763
You can print it here:
https://www.shapeways.com/model/2295...?materialId=25

This version has not been printed yet. I can not garantee that all parts will fit perfectly.

Regards Daniel
Last edited by francischie; Aug 19, 2014 at 04:06 PM.
Aug 19, 2014, 04:29 PM
Registered User
The weight of the Gimbal inkl. Gopro is 310g.
I don't know the difference in weight between sls and FDM, I think it could effect the balancing a bit. I don't know if it is actually printable with FDM method, as it is quite complex.
The cg I calculated was wrong. For roll it was 2.8mm difference and for yaw 1.5mm. I updated the 3d model and I have corrected the cg. However I can't tell if the cg will fit perfectly in this version, as I haven't printed it.
By the way, the bgm2208 at goodluckbuy won't fit, as they deliver the motors with 4 instead of 3 holes. The slipring I use is this one: http://www.goodluckbuy.com/dys-brush...otography.html

Today I did a short flight:

First Flight STorM32 Gimbal (0 min 0 sec)

There are some vibrations, as the dampers I use are way to hard.
Last edited by digaus; Aug 20, 2014 at 12:18 AM.
Aug 19, 2014, 04:56 PM
Registered User
francischie's Avatar
That's quite heavy.

If you have Stella, try those rubber balls. Someone told me it is super soft. I used Zenmuse H3-3D black rubber balls, they are really soft and have good results with butter smooth video.


Although the same rubber balls does not work well with my mobius version. It's probably too light.


http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/cont...=REG&A=details

It's 4 set of different softness. I think the white might work better for you because of the weight. What is the weigh from your suspension frame?


Quote:
Originally Posted by digaus View Post
The weight of the Gimbal inkl. Gopro is 310g.
I don't know the difference in weight between sls and FDM, I think it could effect the balancing a bit. I don't know if it is actually printable with FDM method, as it is quite complex.
The cg I calculated was wrong. For roll it was 2.8mm difference and for yaw 1.5mm. I updated the 3d model and I have corrected the cg. However I can't tell if the cg will fit perfectly in this version, as I haven't printed it.
By the way, the bgm2208 at goodluckbuy won't fit, as they deliver the motors with 4 instead of 3 holes. The slipring I use is this one: http://www.goodluckbuy.com/dys-brush...otography.html

Today I did a short flight:
(Video is still uploading)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KnYJSrZzSdk
There are some vibrations, as the dampers I use are way to hard.
Last edited by francischie; Aug 19, 2014 at 05:05 PM.
Aug 19, 2014, 06:06 PM
hoh
hoh
Spandau, Berlin / Las Vegas,US
hoh's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by digaus View Post
The weight of the Gimbal inkl. Gopro is 310g.
I don't know the difference in weight between sls and FDM, I think it could effect the balancing a bit. I don't know if it is actually printable with FDM method, as it is quite complex.
The cg I calculated was wrong. For roll it was 2.8mm difference and for yaw 1.5mm. I updated the 3d model and I have corrected the cg. However I can't tell if the cg will fit perfectly in this version, as I haven't printed it.
By the way, the bgm2208 at goodluckbuy won't fit, as they deliver the motors with 4 instead of 3 holes. The slipring I use is this one: http://www.goodluckbuy.com/dys-brush...otography.html

Today I did a short flight:
(Video is still uploading)
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=KnYJSrZzSdk
There are some vibrations, as the dampers I use are way to hard.
Thank you Daniel.
I don't think is too heavy, 310g including the Gopro and BGM2208. Not too shabby. Thanks again Daniel.
Aug 19, 2014, 06:24 PM
Registered User
francischie's Avatar
Ohh, I didn't see GoPro is included on 310. . Then SLS printing is not really far from ABS or PLA interms of weight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by hoh View Post
Thank you Daniel.
I don't think is too heavy, 310g including the Gopro and BGM2208. Not too shabby. Thanks again Daniel.
Aug 19, 2014, 08:15 PM
OlliW
Thread OP
@digaus:
I think that's - except of the little yellow - a very nice video THX
there is also only a tiny bit of horizont shift
(maybe you'd like to try the advanced mode and a bit more aggresive flying/turning)

is my guess correct that this SLS printed stuff is much stronger/stiffer mechanically than the typical 3D thing (ABS,PLA)?

anyway, that's IMHO one of the best build DIY gopro gimbals I've seen so far
Aug 19, 2014, 08:19 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
it furthers that your camera IMU is quite an outlier (I would replace it but I'm not sure I would uphold urging you to throw it in the bin)

it also suggests that one could get good results already with calibrating only the z axis (either 1 point, or better 2 point).
Here's what I ended up with for calibration data. Looks like the save/load don't work yet, so screenshot it is:
Aug 19, 2014, 08:37 PM
OlliW
Thread OP
thx, very usefull data
(maybe next time you could take a screenshot of the 6-point screen itself with all the other numbers too)

-6212 is huge, man, it's twice that of my "worst" imu ... the onboard in contrast seems to be a real excellent one
it's kind of interesting to see that the scale factor doesn't seem differ much from the default value (I noted this in my data too), so it seems to be mainly an offset thing

with the calibrated camera imu you still get the glitches then pitching down?

yes, the save/load is not yet there... I'm still trying to figure out a future-proof data format for storage

as regards the on-board IMU, what I should have mentioned: since it's on the board and the board gets quite warm due to e.g. the voltage regulator one ideally would do this calibration with the battery connected, and after having waited some minutes for the temperature to stabilize

in fact, ideally one would do a 6-point calibration with a "cool" board, only powered via USB, and then a further 6-point calibration with a "warm" board, powered by battery, and report the 6-point display screenshots for these two cases... I'm trying to develop a temperature compensation for the onboard IMU, and such data could be very helpfull (but it's an effort to collect LOL)
Aug 19, 2014, 09:34 PM
Registered User
I did two test flights while tethered to a 5 meter USB cable, here are the settings and data logs:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/660c5efi6nlhbir/tuned3.cfg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/82hf4fqw1k6rbhl/hovertest.dat
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ta7mz2bgf2...hovertest2.dat

I got it to offset to the right again. Again it was towards the end of my second flight on a battery; this time while descending to land. Maybe the pan motor is having issues with the voltage dropping, and can't keep up with ? I might try raising the voltage compensation above 0 and see what happens.

Edit: just to be clear, it glitched on a free flight following the tethered flights, so it is not included in the data logs.
Last edited by IAmKiloman; Aug 19, 2014 at 10:57 PM.
Aug 19, 2014, 09:41 PM
Registered User
francischie's Avatar
Just want to share that will help future IMU calibration. I'm thinking to stick my camera IMU (and storm32 board for build IMU) on this cube and then clip it on my ""Third-Hand" station aligator clip which can pivot on 360.

That should be dead accurate!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/330817376226

How To - Calibrate 6 Point IMU Calibration 3 Axis Gimbal Stabilizer (6 min 7 sec)
Aug 19, 2014, 09:52 PM
Registered User
francischie's Avatar
Like Olliw said, why all those hand held gimbal build was not reporting any issue?

Hummm wonder might be related to sudden current draw and voltage changes during flight that cause the issue.

For me I'm getting better and better result on the horizon with new firmware and 6 point calibration. I still don't use the 2nd IMU because I know my quad wont be banking 45 degresss. .

But it really nice people are contributing to report this issue.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IAmKiloman View Post
I did two test flights while tethered to a 5 meter USB cable, here are the settings and data logs:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/660c5efi6nlhbir/tuned3.cfg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/82hf4fqw1k6rbhl/hovertest.dat
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ta7mz2bgf2...hovertest2.dat

I got it to offset to the left again. Again it was towards the end of my second flight on a battery; this time while descending to land. Maybe the pan motor is having issues with the voltage dropping, and can't keep up with ? I might try raising the voltage compensation above 0 and see what happens.
Aug 19, 2014, 10:01 PM
Registered User
francischie's Avatar
Also, 5 meter USB cable? I need that for some other reason.

Maybe you can try the bluetooth.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IAmKiloman View Post
I did two test flights while tethered to a 5 meter USB cable, here are the settings and data logs:

https://www.dropbox.com/s/660c5efi6nlhbir/tuned3.cfg
https://www.dropbox.com/s/82hf4fqw1k6rbhl/hovertest.dat
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ta7mz2bgf2...hovertest2.dat

I got it to offset to the left again. Again it was towards the end of my second flight on a battery; this time while descending to land. Maybe the pan motor is having issues with the voltage dropping, and can't keep up with ? I might try raising the voltage compensation above 0 and see what happens.
Aug 20, 2014, 12:40 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by francischie View Post
Hummm wonder might be related to sudden current draw and voltage changes during flight that cause the issue.

But it really nice people are contributing to report this issue.
Yeah I will try raising the voltage correction. I am curious though - is everyone else that is seeing this is also having the gimbal point to the right when it gets stuck off-center? Is it always the yaw axis, and always to the right (from the gimbal's perspective)?
Aug 20, 2014, 02:00 AM
OlliW
Thread OP
@IAmKiloman:
this are very usefull info you retrieve... towards the end, always towards the right THX

(I don't think the voltage correction will help, but let's see).

That it's always the yaw axis has a simple explanation, the whole thing is relevant only for the pan mode (disturbe the roll and pitch axis with the 2nd IMU switched on and off, you will see no difference)

@francischie:
Quote:
That should be dead accurate!
NO ... unfortunately not.
it depends also on how accurate you stick the MPU module on this cube ...
(it's a reason why I'm not a fan of this "stick it with a tape to the cam" method ... it would be better to have a cube with proper mounting posts, like what I've edited into post #1389)
but I agree ... your apporach would be damed good
Quote:
For me I'm getting better and better result on the horizon with new firmware and 6 point calibration.
nice to hear that ...
you've not yet tried the advanced method, I guess? Maybe, instead of doing all the adjustment things I asked for you just switch it from standard to advanced and do a flight ... just to see what happens, maybe it's working reasonably well out of the box.
Aug 20, 2014, 10:20 AM
Registered User
francischie's Avatar
I did work on advance options from previous firmware but result is not yet consistent with different adjustment mainly on the 3 parameters you discussed. I haven't applied same settings on the new firmware and just flew with standard for now cause I also making some adjustment to my frame.

Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
@IAmKiloman:
....
you've not yet tried the advanced method, I guess? Maybe, instead of doing all the adjustment things I asked for you just switch it from standard to advanced and do a flight ... just to see what happens, maybe it's working reasonably well out of the box.
Aug 20, 2014, 03:16 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
@digaus:
I think that's - except of the little yellow - a very nice video THX
there is also only a tiny bit of horizont shift
(maybe you'd like to try the advanced mode and a bit more aggresive flying/turning)

is my guess correct that this SLS printed stuff is much stronger/stiffer mechanically than the typical 3D thing (ABS,PLA)?

anyway, that's IMHO one of the best build DIY gopro gimbals I've seen so far
Ok today I tried to fly more agressive and I used the dampers from the Stella. They are way too soft but the vibrations got better:
Second Flight STorM32 Gimbal (0 min 0 sec)

I did a 1Point Calibration and acitvated the advanced mode. However the Horizion-Shift is still visible (at 2:21 for example). I dont know if the powersettings for yaw were too low but at 2:55 I experienced the issue francischie described.

Quote:
Originally Posted by francischie View Post
Hi Olliw,

Just want report some of my findings to the 2nd IMU. When the gimbal is sometimes encountered shakes it forget where the front facing. Happen to me twice when landing where the quad was touching the ground and produce some shakes. The yaw will jerk and then won't return to front facing and require reboot.

Should the 2nd IMU makes the front facing persistant after it was nitialized regardless of the resistant like on your demo video? By the way I can't reproduce it on table if I put some resistant with my hand.
Last edited by digaus; Aug 20, 2014 at 11:22 PM.
Aug 20, 2014, 05:55 PM
Registered User
hexakopter's Avatar
I updated my second Storm32 now, but I have some trouble with the Feed-Forward Gain. When I take it to zero, I get something like one degree drift. In the old version I get less then 0,4 degrees drift, when I put the Feed Forward to 1. Withe the new Version (both IMUs 6-point calibrated) I get up to 7 degrees drift.
Don't have an answer, why that is now so bad.

But a good thing.
Did a quick render of some 3d files (thanks to digaus, and so on....). Hope you like it.
Name: Storm32 gimbal first render.jpg
Views: 149
Size: 488.1 KB
Description: Storm32 gimbal first render

Regards, hexakopter
Aug 20, 2014, 06:50 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by digaus View Post
http://youtu.be/NYfvD9ejwu0
I did a 1Point Calibration and acitvated the advanced mode. However the Horizion-Shift is still visible (at 2:21 for example). I dont know if the powersettings for yaw were too low but at 2:55 I experienced the issue francischie described.
Huh, yours went off to the left, where mine always goes to the right. The occurrence is exactly the same though - a few minutes in, with the camera tilted down. Shakes quickly, and then offsets to an angle about 45 degrees from true center.
Aug 20, 2014, 07:13 PM
Registered User
Hi digaus, your videos are very good and revealing, you live in a beautiful rural setting it seems. The gimbal is also very impressive, I have a 3d printer but I do not think it would do justice to the design because of the amount of support material that would be required to print it and the Shipways printed version would be a little expensive for me.
I know my post does not add anything to the discussion of the storm32 but
Just saying thanks for your contribution.

@hexakopter thats a great 3D render.

regards - bruce
Aug 21, 2014, 01:28 AM
OlliW
Thread OP
@digaus:
THANKS a lot for this video!

As regards the horizont shift:
I understand that the better something gets the higher the expectations rise ... but - IMHO (and only IMHO, not sure if you guys agree) - this video shows by far the best horizont shift performance I've seen with any of the AlexMos-type controllers, I actually find the performance kind of spectacular for this type of controller, I'm very satisfied
of course, it's not perfect, no question ... but, as explained before, with the given gimbal principle there are physical limitations, i.e. it can't be perfect in all instances
(but I think we came a big step closer to that)

EDIT: "AlexMos-type" means direct drive brushless without motor position feedback ... such as AlexMos, Brugi/Martinez, EvvGC, VRGimbal, STorM32, ... (and unlike Zenmuse)

As regards the yaw jump:
I'm very confused about your settings... to me it looks as if you were NOT using the 2nd imu, is this right?

Guys: PLEASE post either the Settings screenshot generated with Share Settings or the .cfg file generated with Save Settings ... you provide very helpfull info, but I have great difficulties to put into the correct context THX

(e.g., digaus' yaw jump doesn't appear to be francischie's nor IAmKiloman's issue ... in order to trace down issues it's important to link them to the correct root of the evil)

@hexakopter:
thx for your feedback ... it honestly doesn't yet make sense to me, I'll ask you per PM
nice gimbal render btw
Last edited by OlliW; Aug 21, 2014 at 06:17 AM.
Aug 21, 2014, 02:33 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
@digaus:
THANKS a lot for this video!
I have to thank you for the awesome controller
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
@digaus:
As regards the horizont shift:
I understand that the better something gets the higher the expectations rise ... but - IMHO (and only IMHO, not sure if you guys agree) - this video shows by far the best horizont shift performance I've seen with any of the AlexMos-type controllers, I actually find the performance kind of spectacular for this type of controller, I'm very satisfied
of course, it's not perfect, no question ... but, as explained before, with the given gimbal principle there are physical limitations, i.e. it can't be perfect in all instances
(but I think we came a big step closer to that)

EDIT: "AlexMos-type" means direct drive brushless without motor position feedback ... such as AlexMos, Brugi/Martinez, EvvGC, VRGimbal, STorM32, ... (and unlike Zenmuse)
I have to admit if I wouldn't have searched for the horizon shift I wouldn't have noticed it. I think ahrs algorithm does a great job here!

Today I tried to reproduce the yaw jump with very agressive flying(always 2nd IMU activated). Within 5 minutes I experienced this jump four times, the first three jumps were corrected by the controller. But at the last jump, the controller totally got crazy:
STorM32 Gimbal with 2nd IMU active (5 min 33 sec)


After that flight I tried it without the 2nd IMU and the yaw jumps were completely gone. The gimbal worked perfectly the whole flight :
STorM32 Gimbal with 2nd IMU disabled (7 min 53 sec)
Last edited by digaus; Aug 22, 2014 at 12:20 AM.
Aug 22, 2014, 01:20 AM
OlliW
Thread OP
1.video: well, obviously I'm missing a point in the current 2nd IMU implementation which makes the system to screw up totally in copter flights

2.video: wau, at the begining you quite pushed the system ... great video! THX
Aug 22, 2014, 07:20 AM
Registered User
Best 3 axis Gimbal for Gopro ??
Hi all, I have the Witespy Storm32 and am wanting advice on a suitable (and cheap) 3 axis gimbal. Currently looking at the RC timer IMP and the DYS units, both around $190 usd at the moment. Any comments or suggested alternatives greatly appreciated.
Aug 22, 2014, 08:10 AM
Registered User
Did some more flights today.

Testflights Storm Gimbal (23 min 11 sec)


Some low flying clips first. Then three full flights at:
01:39, 08:00 and 16:36

Still problems with the horizon in two of the clips (not so much in full clip 1 at 1:39) and a complete failure at Yaw after some agressive flying. Especially in full flight 2.

Don't take this too seriously as a test. Before I do this more scientifically I need to go over the gimbal, fix some vibration issues and have a look at the accuracy in general. But I left those complete clips in there in case they can provide some interesting info.
Aug 22, 2014, 08:36 AM
OlliW
Thread OP
THX

parameters?
such as
2nd IMU activated? (I guess yes)
standard or advanced Acc Compensation Method? (I guess advanced)
calibration? (?)

I think, as demonstrated in the above, currently it is not recommended to use the 2nd IMU in copter applications (except for experimental purposes)
Last edited by OlliW; Aug 22, 2014 at 09:31 AM.
Aug 22, 2014, 10:25 AM
Micro Brushless crazy
Uttam1's Avatar
Hi guys,

I've built my first gimbal using the StormBGC 1.3 board, and have some problems!

The gimbal is pretty balanced and has a gopro mounted. I am running version 0.31 firmware on it, and initial firmware burning went as indicated on the wiki. As suggested in the wiki, I proceeded to IMU and motor configurations next, with only USB powering the board. I have the IMU setup such that the Pitch gives positve readings with the cam going dowm, roll giving positive readings with cam rolling right from the behind, and yaw giving positive readings turning anti-clockwise.

With the motors enabled, and the pitch,roll,yaw usage set to NORMAL, I dont get any corrections. When I look at the data, I see all readings except corrections, the correction graphs are all absolutely flat. Sometimes, the gimbal, in roll/pitch, just rotates one way or another and doesn't stop. The LED's have me a bit confused. When I power on using the Battery, the red heartbeat LED initially flashes at 1.7Hz, and the green LED starts blinking slowly. After a few seconds, the red LED blinks rapidly, and the Green LED also starts blinking faster. IMU and battery voltages ( 11.8V ) are ok.

When I set VMAX to about 100, all motors lock, and an increase in VMAX makes the lock stronger. But PID's have no effect.



Whats happening here?

-Thanks!
Aug 22, 2014, 10:35 AM
OlliW
Thread OP
you are sure you're reaching the state "Normal"?
(look in the top left corener in DataDisplay)
you probably don't keep your gimbal at rest during initialisation
Aug 22, 2014, 10:46 AM
Micro Brushless crazy
Uttam1's Avatar
It says LEVEL in the top left corner, OlliW.
Aug 22, 2014, 11:09 AM
OlliW
Thread OP
keep it at rest until you see Normal
(if it sticks at level watch the camera if it moves and indeed levels ... I suspect it doesn't, so that after a while the controler gives up and enters error mode ... but we had this some post back in the above!!!)

I cite the wiki:
Quote:
The gimbal should go through a number of initialization steps (the green led blinks, with increasing frequency), and finally should start with normal operation (the green led stops blinking and flashes continously).

Comment: During the initialization the gimbal needs to be at rest.

In short, after power up keep the gimbal at rest until the green led flashes continuously. Holding the gimbal e.g. in the hands is not keeping it at rest.
Aug 22, 2014, 01:22 PM
Flying Wood For Fun
irun4fundotca's Avatar
would normal operation not be better shown as a solid green ?
flashing and blinking are the same thing! even with various frequencies it still both the same
Aug 22, 2014, 03:10 PM
Registered User
Hi guys,

me first video with my gimbal is finished. So her can you see my Bouncing Group and me.
The PID Tuning from my gimbal wars not perfect respectively good and I have the problem, that my gimbal is moderately stiff.

But it works with my Poweriser. I can make a video an it.

Bouncen zum Stadtfest (5 min 22 sec)
Aug 22, 2014, 03:17 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW View Post
THX

parameters?
such as
2nd IMU activated? (I guess yes)
- IMU2 Configuration: Gimbal Support

Standard or advanced Acc Compensation Method? (I guess advanced)
- Acc compensation method: standard

Calibration? (?)
- None
Aug 22, 2014, 04:04 PM
Registered User
After todays flight I wanted to upgrade to FW 039e

But now it seems impossible to upgrade the firmware. I connect USB, check that the Storm is at COM14, read data to see that it works and it does.

Then I press both reset and boot. And release reset first and then boot. At this point the lights stop blinking and the controller disappear from the computer and COM14 is suddenly nothing. I try to upgrade but the tool just says cannot open the com port.

If I push reset once the board shows up again and works fine. But if I try to upgrade the firmware it disappears again.

Any ideas?
Aug 22, 2014, 04:21 PM
Registered User
hexakopter's Avatar
@eirikso You know that you can't update over normal USB? You need a "USB to UART" adapter (TTL-adapter) to flash a new firmware.
You can find more infos here: http://www.olliw.eu/storm32bgc-wiki/...flash_firmware

Regards, hexakopter
Aug 22, 2014, 04:49 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by hexakopter View Post
@eirikso You know that you can't update over normal USB? You need a "USB to UART" adapter (TTL-adapter) to flash a new firmware.
You can find more infos here: http://www.olliw.eu/storm32bgc-wiki/...flash_firmware

Regards, hexakopter
Argh. Thank you. Guess I need some sleep... Of course. I have updated the firmware several times. With my adapter... Don't know why I thought I could do it with the regular USB connection now...

It's when you think you REALLY know stuff that you do the most stupid mistakes... :-)
Aug 22, 2014, 05:58 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by irun4fundotca
would normal operation not be better shown as a solid green ?
flashing and blinking are the same thing! even with various frequencies it still both the same
Normal IS solid green. Check out this video - you can see that the green LED sequence is blinking, flashing, solid.

STorm32 BGC Bootup sequence (0 min 31 sec)


There might be even more depending on configuration, since the normal status sequence is:

MOTORS (off)
SETTLE (blinking)
CALIBRATE
LEVEL (flashing)
MOTORDIRDETECT
RELEVEL
NORMAL (solid)
STANDBY
Aug 22, 2014, 06:14 PM
Registered User
francischie's Avatar
Here's my new mobius setup. I'm selling it by the way. PM me if someone interested. Sorry Olliw for the ad.

Mobius 3 Axis Gimbal 360 view (0 min 26 sec)
Aug 22, 2014, 07:14 PM
OlliW
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by irun4fundotca
would normal operation not be better shown as a solid green ?
flashing and blinking are the same thing! even with various frequencies it still both the same
uuppssss ... indeed ... I now learned that "flashlight" can be both translated to "Taschenlampe" (not blinking) and "Blitzlicht" (one flash), and differs from "flashing light" which is a "Blinklicht" ... THX

maybe any native English speaker feels inclined to change the wiki text to something which cannot be misunderstood

BTW: great video IAmKiloman, THX ... maybe, could you tell the sequence also in the video discription (inlcuding the firmware version)(ideally the state would show up in the video as subbtitle or so) ... I think with some little advancements such a video could for e.g. go into on this wiki side, http://www.olliw.eu/storm32bgc-wiki/Leds, into a new chapter Led Blinking Sequence or so ... and a reference to this could go into the Getting Started page
Aug 22, 2014, 09:30 PM
Micro Brushless crazy
Uttam1's Avatar
Hi OlliW,

Thanks! It's working now. The problem was, I had disabled PID's and Vmax on the roll and yaw channels. So during power on calibration process, when motor directions need to be identified, the controller probably couldn't perform its routines. I put in some low values, and everything came to life! Will keep you informed on how it goes! Thanks again!

-Uttam
Aug 23, 2014, 02:48 AM
OlliW
Thread OP
aha... that's an interesting point ... zero PID values shouldn't be a problem (since they become relevent only in Normal state), but zero Vmax for pitch doesn't work, since this effectively inmobilizes the motor, and the system can't level

good job
Last edited by OlliW; Aug 23, 2014 at 02:59 AM.
Aug 23, 2014, 02:56 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by OlliW
BTW: great video IAmKiloman, THX ... maybe, could you tell the sequence also in the video discription (inlcuding the firmware version)(ideally the state would show up in the video as subbtitle or so) ... I think with some little advancements such a video could for e.g. go into on this wiki side, http://www.olliw.eu/storm32bgc-wiki/Leds, into a new chapter Led Blinking Sequence or so ... and a reference to this could go into the Getting Started page
I should redo it, turn auto-detection back on, and see if I can get both the blinking and the direction-detection/leveling in the video. It is pretty fun to watch

Just out of curiosity, what are the patterns/blink durations (in ms or whatever) for the different states?
Aug 23, 2014, 03:03 AM
OlliW
Thread OP
red heart beat blinks @ 1.7 Hz in normal operation, fast @ 10 Hz in case of error, goes solid in STANDBY
green indicates state of controller:
MOTORS (off)
SETTLE (blinking @ 2.5 Hz)
CALIBRATE
LEVEL (flashing @ 5 Hz)
MOTORDIRDETECT
RELEVEL
NORMAL (solid)
STANDBY (both red and green solid)
Last edited by OlliW; Aug 23, 2014 at 04:08 AM.
Aug 23, 2014, 04:43 AM
Registered User
Some IMU Calibration data.

So, after my "did-you-remember-to-connect-the-power"-fail when upgrading the firmware yesterday I installed 0.39e and started calibrating my IMU. But it failed. It refused to accept the +Z position.

So I decided to change to another identical IMU. And that one failed at +Z as well. Fortunately I have several IMUs here, so I tried another one. And it passed. So did the next two IMUs I tried to calibrate.

So I guess I'll just throw away the two that won't calibrate? By the way: one of them is the one that have been used in the videos I have posted here.

If it is of any help, I attach all the results from the five different IMUs I tested. The two small ones are the ones that refuse to calibrate the +Z position.

Edit:
For the two IMUs that did not calibrate the numbers in the "live data" line at the top is where I got when trying to calibrate +Z. In other words 13741 and 13711 at +Z.
Last edited by eirikso; Aug 23, 2014 at 04:50 AM.
Aug 23, 2014, 04:56 AM
OlliW
Thread OP
THX for all the info, very usefull

as regards the the two fails, as learned in the above I've set the boundaries for z too narrow (will be corrected in the next update) ... for the moment use the GUI posted in #1397

PS: as a general comment to everyone ... I would think that it's generally advisable to read through at least the recent 100 posts or so when starting with a new project ... I guess I'll add such a comment on page #1


EDIT: I summarize

Code:
IAmKiloman:
tiny#1:            13365, -19577, 16747, -15853, 16066, -16598
witespy#1-onboard: 16566, -16382, 16351, -16457, 16193, -16537

OlliW:
gy-521#1:          14727, -18160, 16572, -16210, 16701, -16334 @ 24.4
gy-521#2:          15349, -17830, 16886, -15953, 16197, -16562 @ 25.7
gy-521#3:          15573, -17484, 16719, -16093, 16122, -16678 @ 28.2
white#1:           16780, -15979, 16337, -16381, 16455, -16064 @ 25.1
gy-86-10dof#1:     15360, -17879, 16286, -16406, 16172, -16835 @ 27.9
DIYv1.1#1-onboard: 15910, -17314, 16573, -16269, 16532, -16515 @ 30.3
DIYv1.2#1-onboard: 18387, -15006, 17013, -16004, 16469, -16400 @ 28.3
DIYv1.3#1-onboard: 17002, -15963, 16745, -16463, 16667, -16222 @ 27.0 

eirikso:
#0:                16710, -16375, 16359, -16294, 16670, -16320 @ 27.3
square#1:          15956, -17013, 16248, -16299, 16345, -16100 @ 30.6
square#2:          15954, -17024, 16488, -16495, 16335, -16415 @ 30.7
tiny#1:            13741, -19218, 16787, -15892, 15991, -16848 @ 30.9
tiny#2:            13711, -19401, 16725, -15170, 16057, -16778 @ 28.0
Last edited by OlliW; Aug 23, 2014 at 09:44 AM.
Aug 23, 2014, 05:21 AM
Registered User
The data is for all my IMUs. The two last images (the small ones) are the ones that did not calibrate. Both of them is from WhiteSpy. One delivered with my current StroM and one that came with a EvvGC.

I edited the post so maybe you missed:

"Edit:
For the two IMUs that did not calibrate the numbers in the "live data" line at the top is where I got when trying to calibrate +Z. In other words 13741 and 13711 at +Z."


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