J-Boat Ranger - Page 4 - RC Groups
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Feb 14, 2014, 09:19 PM
Kraut
4 hours later the gypsum was dry enough to start the pull.
I screwed a concret screw into the plug an attached a ratchet pully to it. Hang it from a step letter and suspended it several inches above ground.
Sometimes they just plop out. This one did not.
So I got the hairdryer out and heated the surrounding of the plug.
It will melt the Vaseline and dries out the surrounding of the plug, it shrinks.
Slowly the plug came out.
Why not wait till everything has completely cured.
As long as the gypsum is wet it will break easy, if there is anywhere a hang up it will break. Once cured it will not break.
Second, the Vaseline will not penetrate the gypsum as long as it is wet and can be removed with paint thinner. If any fill in is needed, it will not stick on Vaseline.
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Feb 14, 2014, 10:53 PM
Registered User
So I am guessing this now gives you your mold for the keel ballast? How much is the ballast going to weigh? Ryan
Feb 15, 2014, 09:13 AM
Kraut
The ship will be over 80 pounds. I intend to have 75 pounds of lead.
5 layers of 15 pounds each.
The top 2 layers I will than cut into 5 pound pieces and use them for the trim.
Feb 15, 2014, 11:13 AM
BabyBootLegger
sunworksco's Avatar
I work with a 3-D scanning shop that can scan my keel and cut an exact high-density foam plug or I could possibly have a billet of lead CNC machined, since it cuts like butter.
Feb 22, 2014, 10:13 AM
Registered User
I read you can use like 8 layers of wax and a mold release agent for pouring the lead keel, but don't know if that will burn off with the hot lead? I was thinking of using 4 vertical sections with some either steel wire or hook embedded so it would be easier to lift out of the hull. If there are flat layers how do you intend to remove them from the hull? On the classic sailboats website I see he has 3 sections of lead for the keel. Also interested in how your going to melt the lead, my big question is do I have to melt it all at once for each section, thats gonna be a big pot, or just melt some and just add it as I go, will it hold together? Has anyone used a Saeco lead melting pot?
Feb 23, 2014, 07:52 PM
Kraut
Mikes, maybe this will answer some of your questions.
My buddy from the junck jard called Saturday, he just had got around 150lbs of roof lead in.
That stull is nice and clean.
I got around 95 pounds of that stuff for 0.65 a pound. I made 6 separate piles of 15lbs each, used the kitchen scale.
15lbs is a good weight to handle.
I got myself a $20 camp stove, 3 bottles of propane. My cutting torch was out of oxygen, weekend, naturally, Murphy...........................
I always use a small cast iron pot to melt the stuff in.
With the cutting torch it takes 5 minutes to melt 15 pounds. With the camp stove it takes around 25 minutes, in addition to the stove I used my soldering torch to speed thinks up a little.
Camp stove, 3 bottles and soldering torch will cost you around $50.
Cutting torch is the best.
You get the stuff really liquid, hot, than scoop of what ever floats on top, cast iron spoon, does good, dump that stuff into a bucket with water.
Than grab the pot and dump that stuff into your form and start all over again.
When you dump the second load you will see that it will melt the top of the first and so connect.
You need to work it like concret, go from one end to the other.
When lead is liquid, it is very much expanded, when it cools down it will shrink quiet a bit. If you have a clean form, it just will come out, no need for grease or what ever, it would burn away anyhow. We are talking very hot.
Since this is a very large form, I could not fit it into my stove to draw out the very last moisture.
Normaly I stick them in the stove and give them the final cure at 200 F for a couple of hours.
So the first dump cooked up the moisture, it bubbled a lot
If one is worried about the looks of the first, pull it and do it again. It will have a lot of air bubbels.
I do not care. Second bubbled a little the rest was just fine.

I did around 85 pounds.

The next thing is to cut that sucker. It is very soft, should be easy, forget about it.
It is difficult. It sticks to every thing, Blades and drills. It just clogs them. Needs massif lubrication and cooling. It is a good conductor and expands rapitly when getting warm, grabs the drill and the blade, besides clogging them.
Fun
Feb 24, 2014, 10:56 PM
Onward and Upward
CatManDu's Avatar
Good Job, Gue! It looks like you've made the BIG time with your "J" boat. Congratulations. I will be watching with interest.

Randy
Feb 25, 2014, 06:47 PM
Kraut
How are you Randy and naturally Wanda,
Have you settelt in.

I enjoyed the time with you and have to say thanks one more time.

gue
Feb 26, 2014, 04:14 PM
Big Boats Rule!
boater_dave's Avatar
Two handy tricks when working with lead.
To melt the lead, use an iron skillet on a charcoal starter. They are cheap, but you could even make your own from a big coffee can and some steel bars. The briquettes are cheap and there is a lot of concentrated heat.
And once you have a cast lead part, freeze it to make it easier to drill/cut/machine. Also, lots of lube helps, too.
And as always, be very careful. The fumes are very bad for you. Don't use your hardware for making food after you used it for melting lead. And wear safety glasses and long sleeves as it can spatter. And don't fill your mold over/near a flammable surface. I had one plaster mold that had a tiny crack. Molten lead is very thin and it all came running out onto the floor. Thankfully we were on a concrete slab.
Schrott, beautiful job on the J. Can't wait for the pics on the water.

Dave
Mar 04, 2014, 06:48 PM
Kraut
Very good advice Dave.

Today I cut the ballast into 4 pieces. I used my demolition saw with a timber/nail blade, very coarse.
That worked great, a little DW40.
When I casted I used a mistake I had made with other casts. If you wait to long the layers will not weld.
I had given every layer an hour to cool of and I used always the same spot to pure the lead.
The center block has nicely welded, except between 3 and 4, I had iced down that spot and I got a clean break.
Once I had done the cutting, the ballast fell apart, layer by layer.
Now I have 9 pieces, easy to handle, easy to remove and especial in the rear, I have enough pieces to trim the tub.
Aug 13, 2015, 10:21 PM
Kraut
So not to high jack SJ thread I will pull this one out of the dump.

Before I start again a little warning. 28 month ago I got a visit from a friend from my childhood, chicken pox. Well at my age it is not chicken pox anymore, its chingels.
Its very nasty for normal cases, but my lasted for around 25 month. Parts of my chest and back look like I had serious burns and the scares are no fun at all.
It took kinde the juice out of me, doing the company and the Farm, I could not expend any energy to think about my hobby.
In April I finally got over it and was able to take the shot.

So you old farts, if you have had the chicken pox, get that darn shot, even if your insurance does not pay for it. Some of the meds I had to take cost for 50 mg 1000 beers.
Its not a joke.

So now I have two unfinished boats, the Aero and the Ranger.
As I explained in SJ thread, I have had no luck to find a ready to go mast.
So a friend of mine has been teaching me over the internet, how to built a mast for that beast, from carbon fiber. I have been building several short pieces, to practice, but they have not jet been to my and my friends satisfaction. But the results are getting better.
One thing we talked about, the racing class looks a little chopped of, compared to the originals.
It is what draws you, the endless tower of the mast and the huge amount of sail and the elegant hulls.
Naturally that does not work in a 9:1 scale. So we fideled around, with a 10 feet mast and than going to 11.6.
The 11.6 looks rather good, comes closer to the original ( 165 feet).
Original, would be at 9:1 around 16 feet, but that would not work by any means.

The racing class has already a 2 inch larger keel, compared to scale, to handle the max 10 foot mast.

So what I have come up with, is a nother keel extension, That is at it max hights 4 inches and made of lead.
It will be attached to the hull by stainless screws. The same way as I did with my Atlantis conversion.
Today I did cast the mold forms for the extension.
Because of its shape I have to have two molds, that will be later soldered together and than shaped.
As core I used a piece of insulation foam.
Last edited by Schrott; Aug 13, 2015 at 10:30 PM.
Aug 14, 2015, 12:14 PM
Registered User
Schrott,
Have you tried contacting Larry Ludwig?
Larry@LudwigRCYachts.com
He sell 120" aluminum mast blanks for the J.

Tim
Vermont
"Endeavor" #206
Aug 14, 2015, 08:38 PM
Kraut
Quote:
Originally Posted by tstone52
Schrott,
Have you tried contacting Larry Ludwig?
Larry@LudwigRCYachts.com
He sell 120" aluminum mast blanks for the J.

Tim
Vermont
"Endeavor" #206
Did that, he told me he has no way to ship them, because DHL pulled out and that was the last I ever heard from him.
Aug 15, 2015, 07:04 AM
Registered User
SailingJunkie's Avatar
How long ago was that ?
Aug 15, 2015, 09:12 AM
Kraut
Quote:
Originally Posted by SailingJunkie
How long ago was that ?
My last e-mail was roughly 6 month ago, without a response


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