J-Boat Ranger - Page 2 - RC Groups
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Dec 07, 2013, 02:09 AM
BabyBootLegger
sunworksco's Avatar
Could you please tell all who made your hull?
I want to order a Whirlwind hull from Bob Sennott's Classic Sailboat Models.
http://www.classicsailboatmodels.com
I'm hoping yours is not from him.
Thanks,
Giovanni
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Dec 07, 2013, 09:30 AM
Registered User
SailingJunkie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rssailor
What a major bummer. Build quality of the hull sounds like it was not that good. Hope the boat turns out. I have always been interested in J boats, but there are none that live out here in California that I am aware of. Ryan
Hi Ryan, There are a few around you. They don't sail all that much but Rick West who lives in Pacifica has a Shamrock and I think there may be a few South of you where the Nationals were hosted a few years ago.

The J Nationals next year will be in Chicago as one of the classes sailing during race week September 14th-20th. We hosted the J Nationals here in CT last August. Had 11 boats which might not seem like many but when the average size of one of these is 8ft with a rig height of 10ft, they take up quite a bit of starting line.

Good fun,

SJ
Dec 07, 2013, 09:44 AM
Registered User
SailingJunkie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunworksco
Could you please tell all who made your hull?
I want to order a Whirlwind hull from Bob Sennott's Classic Sailboat Models.
http://www.classicsailboatmodels.com
I'm hoping yours is not from him.
Thanks,
Giovanni
Giovanni, Bob does not make hulls that are like that at all. I have an Endeavor here from Bob that I am collecting materials to complete the build. I have a Ranger hull as well (not from Bob) and a fully built Whirlwind.

I sailed the Whirlwind at The Nationals in Mystic this year and did well with it against the more seasoned Shamrock sailors. Here is a link to some photos of the Whirlwind racing against the 6 time National Champion (Sail #18) and the 2 time National Champion (sail #05).

https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...3617481&type=1

The breeze was up so I needed to do something with the huge sail plan you see if the first couple of shots and the reason you see the odd main boom length in the ones that follow. I think going forward, having a single mast that you can change main and jib boom combinations is the most economical way to shorten sail with the breeze starts to build like it did. In light air, say under 5kts, the Whirlwind won every race in practice. Started to post some decent finishes when I reduced the size of the main. Still some exploring to do with this particular J boat.

SJ
Dec 09, 2013, 08:36 PM
Kraut
Big decision, what wood to use for the deck planking. For me that is like for the girlfriend or wife going shoe shopping.
In the end it was down to teak or walnut. Walnut won and I got the lumber ordered.
I do my planks my self

I think the walnut will give it the slightly bleached look of a deck weathered by salt and sun.
I bought 12 boards around 1 inch thick, 6 to 8 wide and 3 to 4 long to start with.
I am waiting for the 1/8 ply to finish the subdeck.
Got the deckplanking and hatch plan from MMM and it shows all the details I need, I guess
Its moving along.
Dec 09, 2013, 09:56 PM
BabyBootLegger
sunworksco's Avatar
SJ,
Great photos of the regatta!
I'm definitely getting Bob's Whirlwind.
I work in metals and considering building the deck out of sheet aluminum with hydro printed wood-grained surface.
Dec 10, 2013, 10:42 PM
Registered User
SailingJunkie's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by sunworksco
SJ,
Great photos of the regatta!
I'm definitely getting Bob's Whirlwind.
I work in metals and considering building the deck out of sheet aluminum with hydro printed wood-grained surface.
If your plan is to race your J some day, be mindful that metal may not be a deck material option in the class rules... May be worth a note to the Class Secretary.

SJ

3.DECK
3.1.
The deck shall only be constructed from a hard material such as wood,
fiberglass (which may have a wood core), and/or Formica.
3.2.
Fabric & film decks are not permitted.
3.3.
The deck sheer line shall be a fair and continuous curve.
3.4.
Original topical deck structures, furniture and fittings may be omitted.
Dec 10, 2013, 10:47 PM
Registered User
SailingJunkie's Avatar
Schrott,

Looking forward to seeing the finished deck.
Dec 10, 2013, 11:00 PM
BabyBootLegger
sunworksco's Avatar
When I checked with the president of the club two years ago it was permitted.
I'm wondering if the rules have changed since then?
Dec 19, 2013, 09:21 PM
Kraut
The ply came in and I got some more done on the subdeck. Naturally I have to progress rather carefull. If I close it up to much or to fast I might run into problems with the rc-instalation.
Next arrived the walnut. I was more than eager to find out how my choise of wood would turn out.
Since the planks of the original are rather narrow, I had decided that I would go with 5mm and cut them 2mm thick.
I cut some test planks and since I had some thin black carton around, so I did a test planking.
I think it will look good, which means I like it. The carton has to be thicker.
Dec 19, 2013, 09:55 PM
Registered User
Ed Crowell's Avatar
Very nice. I am looking forward to seeing the finished boat. It should look beautiful.


Ed
Jan 01, 2014, 09:55 PM
Kraut
The last days I have been working on the rudder. Need to get that all cleared away before I close the Hull to much.
The rudder is 3 pieces of ply, the outer are 1/4 and the inner 1/8, 15 3/8 long and 5.5 deep. Quiet a chunk.
The hardware is out of stainless tubing and solid rod, welded.
One of my concern, the rudder has to be removable.
So all the rods, that either go inside or through the bottom of the keel had to be removable. Screwed.
The tube along the back side is 1/4 od an has an id that is slightly under 5mm, it will hold a sloppy M5 thread.
First I built the braces that will extend into the rudder, to handle the torque.
2/32 pipe in which I inserted a stainless rod. Than I drilled the 1/4 and inserted the now solid tubing and welded it, the rods are 2 inches to long at the end and I bent them 90 degree.
The big deal was to weld M5 Threads to the end of the tubing. I used acron nuts, they have a very long thread and when the tips are cut off make very nice thread tubes.
The trick, how to center them on the tube, I tried screws, die not work, the slightest burn trough would freeze the screw in place. I sleped over it and the solution was wood dowels. Inserted into the work piece and than soaked with water, expand and not burning to fast, that might a perfect adjustment. After the welding they were just gone.
Worked perfect.
Time to do some glueing. Before I started that I did a dry run, put all 4 parts together, secured them with clamps and than drill several 1/8 holes through the ply, inserting screws through them would allow me to align the pieces nicely during the glueing thing.
First I glued the 1/8 to a 1/4, than I filled the cut outs for the struts with PC7 and pressed the hard ware into it, and than glued the other 1/4 on top of everything.
Jan 01, 2014, 10:19 PM
Kraut
More rudder hardware.
Since the bottom of the keel is just some GF stuff with yell coating, I built a brass support that will support the rudder pin. I drilled through the little keel extention a 1/4 hole inserted a stainless pipe, the brass support had a 1/4 inch hole .
The thin part of the brass support goes into the hull ( picture ). Everything glued together and glued in makes it very strong. The pin is a M5 screw, head cut of and than slitted on the top.

Than the rod that goes inside the hull, again 1/4 pipe, the bottom M5 threaded a allthread inserted and glued, the top a solid rod, all stainless.
That goes into a pipe, 1/4 id, which is glued into the hull.
Later I will pin all the glued parts of the shaft, just to make sure that the glue does not give out.
The shaft will be screwed into the rudder, and secured with a counter nut
Jan 01, 2014, 10:23 PM
Kraut
Now I have to think about a servo. The sucker has to be rather strong.

Anybody have any idea.
Jan 01, 2014, 11:26 PM
Registered User
How about a Hitec 5765MH, kick ass strong and bullet proof servo. Maybe ask Dave Ramos, he could tell you what he uses in his boats. Ryan
Jan 04, 2014, 12:23 AM
Registered User
tbarjohn's Avatar
Schrott, I talked to one of out club members today that has built several "J" boats, he said the you need somewhere from 200 to 300 in/oz toque, he said he would use a Hitec HS-7945TG ( http://www.servocity.com/html/hs-7955tg_servo.html ) and a set screw shaft coupler ( 525134 )
( http://www.servocity.com/html/set_sc..._coupler_.html ) you mount the servo upside down right above the rudder shaft ( no linkage to mess with ) if you go with this set up make sure that the spline is the same on servo as coupler, here's a pic of 1 of his J's
John R.


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