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May 18, 2015, 03:13 PM
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Originally Posted by fliteline dave
Hey Flip Flap,
Can I hard wire My ant. onto the Orange RX? I really have never trusted this pigtail connection it seems so flimsy and could be shook loose . If this is possible is there a how to somewhere.

Thanks,
Dave
That's a good question, I just made this diagram to show where to connect the antenna. You can find it on this page : http://www.itluxembourg.lu/site/hobb...z-modules-faq/
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May 18, 2015, 03:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fliteline dave
WOW
I just checked all of my pigtails on my orange rx's and none of the grounds are connected. W.T.F.
So all of My custom Ant. have ever worked ie.dipole etc.
Total BS
No wonder I never got any more range with new Ant.
Yes this is the OrangeRX weak spot, I recommend to always change the coax cable.

I've documented this issue here, with reference to a replacement cable : http://www.itluxembourg.lu/site/hobb...z-modules-faq/

It also describes where to solder directly on the RFM pins a much more resistant RG58 ohms coax cable.
May 18, 2015, 03:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by analogman
I have a question. The new RX antenna I ordered is this one:
https://www.fpvpro.com/dragon-link-r...coax-extension

Will I experience issues when using a 90cm coax to the antenna such as the above product? The longer the cable to the antenna I imagine creates the possibility of decreased sensitivity, but I am not sure on this. I would like to avoid mounting the TX as RX out on the wing due to its size.
There's always a small loss involved when using coax cable, but it's usually compensated by a better antenna position, far from other metallic stuff.

For the 12 km trip, I used about 3 meters of RG58 cable to have the antenna on a tripod on the car roof, while I was comfortably inside the car.

My advice would be don't worry for the cable, have the antenna in a good position.
May 18, 2015, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by paultbg
FPV newbee question: is it possible to use two Orange 1w TX with the standard OpenLRSng ? Or it's something that you can do only with FlipFlap's firmware? Just to clarify, using 2 x 1W TX, one as TX one as a RX, in normal radio mode, no telemetry involved.
Please advise.
By looking at openlrsng issue #84 and #74 it doesn't seem to work :

https://github.com/openLRSng/openLRSng/issues/84
https://github.com/openLRSng/openLRSng/issues/74

In addition it requires unsoldering of components (don't ask me why) :

"PPM must be taken from the pin driving the buzzer, grab it from the transistor B so it is not inverted. One should remove the buzzer to silence it out "
Last edited by flipflap; May 18, 2015 at 03:57 PM.
May 19, 2015, 09:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by analogman
I have one request for the new firmware. Please disable the constant beep/tone on the TX side! It is the most annoying thing ti turn on the TX and it beeps while you are fiddling around with getting the plane powered up. Wouldn't it make more sense that the TX only beeps in a connection loss after it has connected with the RX for the first time?
That's an excellent idea !

Quote:
Originally Posted by analogman
Another idea. I have a 3D printer and if someone would develop a case for the TX that housed the FTDI so it isn't hanging out that would be great. I am not very good with CAD lol.
Or have a look at the FTDI cables, the chip/board is invisible (hidden inside the usb connector).[/QUOTE]
May 20, 2015, 04:24 AM
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paultbg's Avatar

some advice about antenna


Question: is this antenna set better than the original ones on the Orange RX TX ?
I plan to use 2 TX in a 1W link with flipflap's firmware.
May 20, 2015, 09:47 AM
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fliteline dave's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by paultbg
Question: is this antenna set better than the original ones on the Orange RX TX ?
I plan to use 2 TX in a 1W link with flipflap's firmware.
Most ant. replacements tuned to 433 will work way better than what comes with the Orange RX as Flip Flap pointed out the ant that come with the Orange RX are not tuned to 433 but are more closer to 2.4
Be sure to check your pigtail for continuity as there is no range with the older supplied pigtail.
Just got a new TX last week and they have used the new pigtail that works

Dave
May 20, 2015, 10:12 AM
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paultbg's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by fliteline dave
Most ant. replacements tuned to 433 will work way better than what comes with the Orange RX as Flip Flap pointed out the ant that come with the Orange RX are not tuned to 433 but are more closer to 2.4
Be sure to check your pigtail for continuity as there is no range with the older supplied pigtail.
Just got a new TX last week and they have used the new pigtail that works

Dave
How can I check that?
I mean, I have checked inside the 2 transmitters if there is no short along the cable from the sma connector to the board, both centre and mass. Is that what you mean? I do not know if I can check what's inside the antenna itself, at least not with a multimeter.
May 20, 2015, 01:46 PM
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fliteline dave's Avatar
It's just the pigtail itself. They put out pigtails that did not have the ground connected to the sma connector for some time. A good ant. is balanced with the ground so if there is no ground the ant. will not work right.
Flip flap explains it right here http://api.viglink.com/api/click?for...modules-faq%2F
Last edited by fliteline dave; May 20, 2015 at 01:59 PM.
May 20, 2015, 02:38 PM
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Thread OP
Exactly, the best is to replace completely the cable. Normally it's OK, but it's very fragile and after a few manipulations (opening / closing the case) it can break up inside.

Regarding the antennas you propose to use ( http://www.goodluckbuy.com/rlink-lon...ug-2-pack.html ), I don't recommend to use any type of monopole antennas such as this one.

Monopole antennas must be used with a ground plane to be efficient, else the SWR is very bad. A ground plane can be for example a metallic plate of sufficient size. The same goes for larger antennas, for example rooftop CB antennas have a very bad SWR until they are mounted on the car's roof (metallic).

For some modules with metallic case (DL, DTF UHF etc), the case will act as a ground plane, but with OrangeRX module it won't work very well.
Last edited by flipflap; May 20, 2015 at 02:43 PM.
May 20, 2015, 02:53 PM
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40 km !


There are many ULRS users in Russia who contact me but they usually don't show up on this forum, maybe because of the language.

Today I was contacted by a Russian who flown 40 km away with ULRS and says it was not the limit (had to turn back because of the plane autonomy).

This is interesting because we know several people who flown farther with other systems (DL, EzUHF, TS, ...), but the difference is that ULRS provides full telemetry.

I'll ask him if he can provide more information on his setup and/or video in case someone is interested.
May 20, 2015, 05:50 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by flipflap
There are many ULRS users in Russia who contact me but they usually don't show up on this forum, maybe because of the language.

Today I was contacted by a Russian who flown 40 km away with ULRS and says it was not the limit (had to turn back because of the plane autonomy).

This is interesting because we know several people who flown farther with other systems (DL, EzUHF, TS, ...), but the difference is that ULRS provides full telemetry.

I'll ask him if he can provide more information on his setup and/or video in case someone is interested.
That would actually be very interesting if he did 40k with full telemetry (not that I plan to do it). His set up would be interesting.
May 21, 2015, 12:27 AM
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Thread OP
His setup is the following

Normal ULRS 1W modules without increased power (3.3V operation, about 400 mW power)
DIY 4 elements Yagi antenna on the ground
DIY Vee antenna on the plane

What certainly contributed to the range is that the antennas are precisely tuned with professional equipment.

The photos are here : http://www.itluxembourg.lu/site/ulti...s-40-km-setup/
May 21, 2015, 10:18 AM
Wisconsin
Quote:
Originally Posted by flipflap
Exactly, the best is to replace completely the cable. Normally it's OK, but it's very fragile and after a few manipulations (opening / closing the case) it can break up inside.

Regarding the antennas you propose to use ( http://www.goodluckbuy.com/rlink-lon...ug-2-pack.html ), I don't recommend to use any type of monopole antennas such as this one.

Monopole antennas must be used with a ground plane to be efficient, else the SWR is very bad. A ground plane can be for example a metallic plate of sufficient size. The same goes for larger antennas, for example rooftop CB antennas have a very bad SWR until they are mounted on the car's roof (metallic).

For some modules with metallic case (DL, DTF UHF etc), the case will act as a ground plane, but with OrangeRX module it won't work very well.
FlipFlap,
What I do to solve the monopole ground plane problem is I create one. On my big hex I took the pcb plate designed for power distribution to the ESC's and used a separate PDB. Then I took the PCB plate and grounded both the hot and gnd lines together so the plate is one big ground plane. Then I put the rpsma panel mount into the ground plate and grounded it. Now the monopole has a good ground plane.
For me on the big multirotors the RMLEC and Diamond vertical monopoles are tougher and survive longer.

Could make it even better running a copper ground radial out the arms I suppose.
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May 21, 2015, 02:05 PM
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That's a good idea, or use what's called a "ground plane antenna".


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