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Mar 11, 2018, 02:08 PM
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FlyingW's Avatar
I do not plan to buy any more regular JR-style 1W Orange Tx modules because I experienced bad luck with quality. For these most recent tests I am using my last working Jr-style unit on the transmitter and the experimental unit for the receiver. I consider all of the work with the OrangeRx modules as the ULRS training.

The real work begins with the Spongeboards
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Mar 11, 2018, 06:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyingW
I do not plan to buy any more regular JR-style 1W Orange Tx modules because I experienced bad luck with quality. For these most recent tests I am using my last working Jr-style unit on the transmitter and the experimental unit for the receiver. I consider all of the work with the OrangeRx modules as the ULRS training.

The real work begins with the Spongeboards
Can you point me to the Spongeboard info?

Thanks
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Mar 11, 2018, 06:07 PM
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FlyingW's Avatar
The info is included in the IT Luxembourg site referenced in the beginning of this thread. Here is the link for all of the DIY ULRS modules; the Spongeboard is the third or fourth in the list:

http://www.itluxembourg.lu/site/apmp...mate-lrs-mini/
Mar 15, 2018, 09:28 PM
Registered User
Hi,
So I am looking at the various ULRS custom board solutions and I have some questions:

Here http://www.itluxembourg.lu/site/apmp...imate-lrs-mini the sami board is listed as having a switching PSU yet the schematic doesn't back this up, am I mistaken ?

Again on the same page, what sort of benefit do I get from the RF Filter on the Dolphin Board ?
Mar 16, 2018, 12:58 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Hi Allman,

You're right the Sami board has a linear regulator, I mistakenly took it for a switching regulator because of the coil and diode, I'll correct the description.

There's few advantages with the RF filter : I didn't measure the dolphin itself, but made measurements on a DTF module ( see here ) and didn't see real benefits. Especially if we consider that such a filter will attenuate the outgoing and the incoming signals. The RFM is quite clean from harmonics by default, you can see in this thread there's nobody complaining about interferences with the video.

I moved the Dolphin and Sami board at the end of the list because they are complex and I don't fully agree with their design.

For example the Sami is using a bidirectional voltage shifter rather than resistors. In theory it's better but in practice there can be situations were the RFM is destroyed, for example if an input pin on the atmega is configured by mistake as an output pin. This can't happen with resistors.

Or the complex power supply system, that can be powered either by USB, battery etc, it's adding many components that are in my opinion not required. And not using an arduino mini but going back to a bare atmega means soldering several additional components, a crystal, capacitors etc that are already on the arduino mini that you can get for 2 bucks.

I think such a system must stay as simple as possible, and that was the target of the ULRS Mini reference schematic : you can even build it on a prototype board. Power the RFM and the arduino mini, connect them with a few resistors and you're good to go.

We're used to think that more complex is better and that more expensive is better, but look at the range and videos reported by users with the most basic boards running ULRS and try to find anything similar on the internet with a more complex or more expensive system :

http://www.itluxembourg.lu/site/ultimate-lrs-range/
http://www.itluxembourg.lu/site/ulti...vided-content/
Mar 16, 2018, 10:25 AM
Registered User
Hi Flipflap,

Thanks for the very comprehensive reply. Soldering and PCB design are no problem for me so I was very tempted to take a crack at yet another design, but why reinvent the wheel.

I am after something with Bluetooth on the transmitter unit and it must fit in a module case (and have the pins in the right place to operate like a module). Maybe with a switching PSU. In general I tend to prefer SMD these days, it's mechanically more resilient, you have no real choice anyway, you either learn it or loose electronics as a hobby, but I digress.

I think this only leaves the Dolphin and the Sami. I am in agreeance with you on the level shifting resistors, and given the standard module is harmonically clean then the filter is a needless extra, as you say no RF filter is a free filter.

So where does this leave me reinventing the wheel or Sami maybe ? (I was tempted to wait till KiCAD 5 arrived with it's Eagle import ability and try importing and remixing the Sami board)
Last edited by allman; Mar 16, 2018 at 10:36 AM.
Mar 17, 2018, 08:13 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
I'm really in favor of simple designs, just take the reference design, replace the linear regulators by a 5V switching regulator module, maybe add an FTDI chip and you'll have something very useful that doesn't exist in SMD. Of course make it fit into the transmitter but that shouldn't be a challenge in SMD.

Another idea is to create a "nano" board. It seems that many quad flyers are looking for this, DL and TBS both have a nano board with 25 mW telemetry. It could be a good idea to make a 100mW nano board with full telemetry, a lot of mini quad flyers would appreciate.

A last idea is to move from an arduino mini to an arduino nano (with integrated USB). For the TX that would be immediately great, forget the external FTDI adapter. For the RX it shouldn't work in theory, as the serial lines would be at the same time connected to the FC and to the FTDI chip. But it seems that it works in practice because of a resistor which happens to be in the right place.
Mar 17, 2018, 12:19 PM
Registered User
Hi! I have problem to setup a orange tx see attached images.
Should the firmware upgrade screen look like in the image attached , after I pressed the "firmware upgrade" button?

After I done the upgrade I can't setup the parameter's.When I press the "change parameters" button nothing happend.
Has the firmware upgrade doesn't uploaded as it should??

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Mar 17, 2018, 02:41 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
You did correctly, but the message "not in sync" in red means that the upgrade didn't work as expected.

Try again, and with some FTDI cables it doesn't work correctly, prefer a genuine FTDI cable if possible.

I assume from the photo that the module was powered, and the FTDI cable looks correct (good orientation and not powered through FTDI).

You can also try with Arduino to flash a simple sketch such as 'blink' to check if the FTDI adapter is fine.
Mar 18, 2018, 02:30 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by flipflap
You did correctly, but the message "not in sync" in red means that the upgrade didn't work as expected.

Try again, and with some FTDI cables it doesn't work correctly, prefer a genuine FTDI cable if possible.

I assume from the photo that the module was powered, and the FTDI cable looks correct (good orientation and not powered through FTDI).

You can also try with Arduino to flash a simple sketch such as 'blink' to check if the FTDI adapter is fine.
Thank you for fast reply! I have tested to flash several time, and I get the same "not in sync".I powered it from a trafo (9v).
one led light up and it "beeb's" some time.
I found this thread:https://www.arduino.cc/en/tutorial/blink
I guess that is what you mean.

Do I have to get a arduino board to flash the "blink" sketch? or can I flash the "blink" on the orangetx?
See attached image of the usb end of the cabel it is marked "ftdi 3,3 v" and have some sort og logo.
I ordered the ftdi cabel from this site:https://www.electrokit.com/en/ftdica...ttl-3-3v.47365
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Mar 18, 2018, 03:35 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
You can flash directly from Arduino with your cable. The OrangeRX has the same bootloader as an arduino uno, so you can flash it in the same way. The fact that it beeps shows that it's not bricked, so it should work.

If it doesn't work either, then use another FTDI cable.
Mar 18, 2018, 03:44 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by flipflap
You can flash directly from Arduino with your cable. The OrangeRX has the same bootloader as an arduino uno, so you can flash it in the same way. The fact that it beeps shows that it's not bricked, so it should work.

If it doesn't work either, then use another FTDI cable.
ok thanks! I will test if it works
Mar 18, 2018, 05:15 AM
Registered User
I can't get the "blink" to work either,get the same error issue(not in sync) in arduino ide also see image
What i saw was that i don,t see any arduino board comming up or "unknown device" in device manager
Is that normal? I have also "disable driver signature enforcment " at startup but same problem

Please look at the attached image if i have the right driver installed to run ulrs.

I have also test to flash a another orange tx and get the same result so the bord(s) seems fine

I have found a fti cable https://www.elfa.se/sv/usb-kablage-u...=50&simi=99.65 that is manufactured by ftdi in england that most be a genuine ftdi cable?
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Last edited by sjak; Mar 18, 2018 at 05:20 AM.
Mar 18, 2018, 05:54 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Yes if it doesn't work with Arduino (select arduino mini 5V 16MHz in the list, Arduino doesn't recognize automatically the boards) then try another cable. I'd that the one you show is a genuine FTDI cable, or have a look here for some links : http://www.itluxembourg.lu/site/the-ftdi-adapter/
Mar 18, 2018, 06:42 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by flipflap
Yes if it doesn't work with Arduino (select arduino mini 5V 16MHz in the list, Arduino doesn't recognize automatically the boards) then try another cable. I'd that the one you show is a genuine FTDI cable, or have a look here for some links : http://www.itluxembourg.lu/site/the-ftdi-adapter/
I could only select Arduino mini and atmega 328p,but I get the same error behavior.I have read the rek link regarding ftdi adapters
before and order the ftdi cable from england was to expensive,I will order the ftdi cable I linked before.
It's a shame that the ftdi cable I have is useless
Last edited by sjak; Mar 18, 2018 at 07:08 AM.


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