Thread Tools
Jun 19, 2017, 01:34 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by 62Soulman
This is way too cool , way too interesting and very very cheap!!! THe only bummer is the post is entirely in spanish... google translate can be a mess, I've tried... please keep us informed on this very nice project.
I understand that for many users the language may be a problem, that happens to me for example with this thread, I have to make an effort to understand and to write (Thanks Google). The post has many graphics and photos to understand the construction. Maybe the hardest part is the calibration, but I think with patience is understood. At the moment I have only built the meter, just need to burn the PIC. These photos are of my progress, as I continue with the project I share here the following steps trying to explain them.

Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Jun 19, 2017, 02:16 AM
Registered User
Waka, where have you got the board?
I also encourage all the spanish speaking followers of this thread to take a look and report. This appears to be a very cool, cheap and useful project.
Jun 19, 2017, 02:28 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by 62Soulman
Waka, where have you got the board?
I also encourage all the spanish speaking followers of this thread to take a look and report. This appears to be a very cool, cheap and useful project.
One of the forum users made several. And he distributed them free to those who requested it. Another user has used a perforated board and made the connections in the back.
Jun 19, 2017, 05:35 AM
Registered User

N1201sa


Last week I bought ( on banggood) this vector impedance analyzer , works very good , I was able to trim all UHF antennas , now the range of ULRS go extreme !!! this N1201SA its worth value , the range is 136Mhz - 2700Mhz, I recommend 100%
Jun 19, 2017, 07:40 AM
Registered User

Dolphin Max Input Voltage


Flip flap you describe this as having a switching regulator on the website -- it actually has a linear reg. (LM317).

Anyone using a Dolphin should realize that 3S is really too much. 9-10V is the preferred supply to keep the LM317 temp down. Perfect for the Taranis 2S battery. Can you add this to the website? I was feeding my mini Talon of the 12v video supply and was not happy at how hot it was getting -- too hot to touch.

Also as regards my HC 05 connection woes. They seem to have been solved by adding these a 5v to 3.3v Level shifter (generics available on ebay). I think it should be best practice to use them unless you know your HC 05 is rated for 5V on the serial lines. Given that we are all using generics from ebay (probably) the tolerance may vary.
Jun 19, 2017, 08:04 AM
Registered User
FixedWingAU's Avatar
I did it, I did it, I did it, I mean, I really did it.
Boy o boy o boy o boy, I finally did it, I really did, I just got my very first ULRS mini (dolphins) talking to each other and working.

After learning a bit of Arduino, SPI, ICSP, ULRS CC, RFM23BP's, how to solder 0805's SMD components and fault find them when the solder didn't quite connect or were bridged, I finally, finally, finally peaked that crest and have a TX and RX working in beautiful harmony (for the time being at least) and I'm verrrry pleased. I once spent over an hour trying to solder an 0805 resistor with my oversized soldering iron to get my APM working so going from that to setting up a half decent SMD soldering solution has been quite a step for me.

For me, this whole project has been a bit more than just getting a 1 Watt 2 way telemetry link up and going, it's also been quite an adventure in learning about micro-controllers and acquiring new skills. So, to all contributors, a big thank you for helping me get up and running whether you responded to my posts or simply added your own questions and answers to others as this all helps the likes of a noob of course.

Jun 19, 2017, 11:40 AM
Registered User
Congrats! Remember to power them at 9-10v! And maybe use a level convertor with your bluetooth if you are going to use one.
Jun 19, 2017, 03:25 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by webeng
I did it, I did it, I did it, I mean, I really did it.
Boy o boy o boy o boy, I finally did it, I really did, I just got my very first ULRS mini (dolphins) talking to each other and working.

After learning a bit of Arduino, SPI, ICSP, ULRS CC, RFM23BP's, how to solder 0805's SMD components and fault find them when the solder didn't quite connect or were bridged, I finally, finally, finally peaked that crest and have a TX and RX working in beautiful harmony (for the time being at least) and I'm verrrry pleased. I once spent over an hour trying to solder an 0805 resistor with my oversized soldering iron to get my APM working so going from that to setting up a half decent SMD soldering solution has been quite a step for me.

For me, this whole project has been a bit more than just getting a 1 Watt 2 way telemetry link up and going, it's also been quite an adventure in learning about micro-controllers and acquiring new skills. So, to all contributors, a big thank you for helping me get up and running whether you responded to my posts or simply added your own questions and answers to others as this all helps the likes of a noob of course.

Jun 19, 2017, 03:35 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Dornan
Flip flap you describe this as having a switching regulator on the website -- it actually has a linear reg. (LM317).

Anyone using a Dolphin should realize that 3S is really too much. 9-10V is the preferred supply to keep the LM317 temp down. Perfect for the Taranis 2S battery. Can you add this to the website? I was feeding my mini Talon of the 12v video supply and was not happy at how hot it was getting -- too hot to touch.

Also as regards my HC 05 connection woes. They seem to have been solved by adding these a 5v to 3.3v Level shifter (generics available on ebay). I think it should be best practice to use them unless you know your HC 05 is rated for 5V on the serial lines. Given that we are all using generics from ebay (probably) the tolerance may vary.
Thanks Marc, it's now corrected here and here.
Last edited by flipflap; Jun 19, 2017 at 03:44 PM.
Jun 19, 2017, 03:43 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvargas
Last week I bought ( on banggood) this vector impedance analyzer , works very good , I was able to trim all UHF antennas , now the range of ULRS go extreme !!! this N1201SA its worth value , the range is 136Mhz - 2700Mhz, I recommend 100%
Thanks for the review, I added a link on the site at the bottom of this page : http://www.itluxembourg.lu/site/yagi-antennas/
Jun 19, 2017, 04:59 PM
Registered User
wkf94025's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Marc Dornan
Congrats! Remember to power them at 9-10v! And maybe use a level convertor with your bluetooth if you are going to use one.
Marc, thanks for trail-blazing. My initial connections powering Dolphins with 3S confirm your experience: too hot, and unnecessary. Now on to level convertors for the inbound HC05's. You've saved me hours, and perhaps some magic smoke.

Kelly
Jun 19, 2017, 08:08 PM
Registered User
JulianGoesPro's Avatar
I was looking through Banggood and at the Wolf stuff and then remebered I had saved a link to a 433 module some time ago... I know so little about the 433 hardware but this kind of looks different (I guess because of the shield?)




Price seems low for 1W, doesn't it?
Can it run ULRS?
Jun 19, 2017, 08:58 PM
Registered User
Nope. It cannot.

Love someone to test one out. Might be a good standalone device.
Jun 20, 2017, 02:11 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by jvargas
Last week I bought ( on banggood) this vector impedance analyzer , works very good , I was able to trim all UHF antennas , now the range of ULRS go extreme !!! this N1201SA its worth value , the range is 136Mhz - 2700Mhz, I recommend 100%
on banggod two of the pictures show an equipment with label N1201 , not N1201SA
I can see you received the one with 'N1201SA'
Do you know maybe if there is any difference?
Jun 20, 2017, 03:59 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by JulianGoesPro
I was looking through Banggood and at the Wolf stuff and then remebered I had saved a link to a 433 module some time ago... I know so little about the 433 hardware but this kind of looks different (I guess because of the shield?)




Price seems low for 1W, doesn't it?
Can it run ULRS?
LOL ... even I pondered over these "E-Byte" UART TRx . These use UART to the MCU. ULRS uses SPI based communication, what Hope RF based boards support.
So these cannot be used in ULRS. These are good to be used for normal Telemetry in Pixhawk/APM etc in place of Zigbee or or other Telemetry modules (need a FTDI converter on GS Side), and I really liked its build quality , specially the Shielding and Board.
Last edited by ujjwaana; Jun 20, 2017 at 04:39 AM.


Quick Reply
Message:

Thread Tools