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Oct 11, 2015, 01:14 PM
Registered User
that's exactly the same error I which pops up when I click on the tab.

have no way to test if the firmware successfully took without that feature unfortunately.
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Oct 11, 2015, 02:26 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jet A1
Good Evening,

Sorry Ben for shortly highjacking your fred, I only want to show what I was after and ultimate LRS made possible.

Above my 9XR Pro is my new CHUWI HI8 tablet. It is 8" and multiboot and current on Android 4.4 (upgradeable to5.0) and W10.As well it features a very bright screen!

For about 100 Euros, i rate this as a bargain! 9xr pro is nearly the same price.

So I can run any software like APMPlanner, APMplanner 2, Tower, Ultimate LRS Control.... you name it. Internet via WLAN or hotspot via my mobile.

Tonight I 3D printed the attachments and mounted the tablet above my TX.

Somwhat happy with this installation especially as being a "single pilot", besides the screen could be 10"or bigger.



Attachment 8318808

b.r.
Wolfgang
Now you need to figure out how to get a hd video link on the tablet and then it will truely be an ultimate system!
Oct 11, 2015, 03:54 PM
Just call me Justin.
Has anyone hooked up frsky telem to the ULRS yet?
Oct 11, 2015, 05:28 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by analogman
I didnt think to check ebay. I just ordered one. Thanks flipflap!

On another note have you had any of your OrangeRX TX/RX fail? I have had several failures; the last one I was just getting low power out of a 1W TX. I am pretty sure it was from bench testing and forgetting to hook an antenna. I know, thats a big no no but it was an accident. I know better.

Will replacing the RF module generally fix my issue? I have one module that I had hooked up to 5VDC over a year ago. That one may be a bad processor, not sure though. It wont even connect via FTDI.

We should make a page on your site on how to T/S and repair OrangeRX modules. Maybe another page on how to build a DIY module??
My buddy just got a 3D printer but is still tuning and modifying it. He is not into electronics as I am though. I am definitely interested in a collaboration. We could exchange #'s for text messaging or use the PM system. If you need help with CAD, just ask! My first advice though, turn away from blender, and RUN! Some people swear by it, but blender is targeted primarily at 3D animation, and you have to install so many plugins for physical dimensions. Try Google's Sketchup, even my wife can design thing's w/it! I am primarily working on PCB design, and real life performance result's atm. And for sure copper/aluminum tape is my go to RF isolator. Love the stuff. Standard operation for me is to cover ALL of my module's, you wouldn't believe the result's even on ORX module's, no, especially ORX modules... :P

I just range tested an interesting one I finished last night. Have you ever seen the long, slim afro esc's? I was inspired by those on this one. It's dimension's are almost exact to a standard cigarette lighter. It's a prototype and not cased, but definitely a contender for my final design (if I ever settle on one) :P

I found a couple pictures of some of my previous receiver module's.
Here is great way to prototype with the RFM23BP. Most of us have bad ORX module's laying around. I desoldered the bad radio module, and carefully cut out the interface with the UFL connector. On the bottom there are convenient solder point's lined up with all 5 of the data pin's to interface with, including a ground. You have to get creative for the VCC though. If anyone does this; if you decide to solder wires to pre-existing solder point's, BE CAREFUL, the PCB has a ground layer and when you cut it out, if you use too much solder it can over flow and attach to a pin. This should only apply to VCC though as everything else has convenient tap point's on the bottom.


I am looking for some other photo's of some of my previous more completed, and better looking, module's.
Last edited by Beemond; Oct 11, 2015 at 05:36 PM.
Oct 11, 2015, 10:59 PM
Registered User
I believe someone had posted this info earlier in the thread, but I am not sure and I was already doing the modification anyway's.

Here is a step by step guide of the "5v mod", that increases the 1w module's from the stock ~400Mw, to over 800Mw! And let me tell you, the result's are impressive.

It is a good idea to add a heat sink to the RFM23BP chip as it will create more heat running off 5v. I have a few that I could use, but since this module is not going in to full time duty anytime soon I will hold off until I can find the perfect heat sink solution that anybody can order, off ebay for example. I would also like the chance to take some temp measurement's.

P.S. If you really want to max out your emitting power, you would want to bring the supply of ONLY the radio chip to 6.0v, or a safer 5.5. The datasheet states 6v as the max, so according to it, you would need 6v to max out the power.
Oct 12, 2015, 02:05 AM
Registered User
High analogman,

Wtih Grabby via USB it is possible. Done that before. Unfortunately it is not HD- grmpf.

b.r.
Wolfgang
Oct 12, 2015, 02:13 AM
Registered User
Dear Ben,

WOuld it be possible to inject a calculated RSSI value - (lost package ratio)- into the data downstream? Would save a delicate soldering and a cable.
b.r.
Wolfgang
Oct 12, 2015, 02:20 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by joeprice22
that's exactly the same error I which pops up when I click on the tab.

have no way to test if the firmware successfully took without that feature unfortunately.
Yes the parameters updating issue is solved here but not yet pushed, will do this evening. Also spectrum analyzer is ready and will be released at the same time.
Oct 12, 2015, 02:25 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemond
I believe someone had posted this info earlier in the thread, but I am not sure and I was already doing the modification anyway's.

Here is a step by step guide of the "5v mod", that increases the 1w module's from the stock ~400Mw, to over 800Mw! And let me tell you, the result's are impressive.

It is a good idea to add a heat sink to the RFM23BP chip as it will create more heat running off 5v. I have a few that I could use, but since this module is not going in to full time duty anytime soon I will hold off until I can find the perfect heat sink solution that anybody can order, off ebay for example. I would also like the chance to take some temp measurement's.

P.S. If you really want to max out your emitting power, you would want to bring the supply of ONLY the radio chip to 6.0v, or a safer 5.5. The datasheet states 6v as the max, so according to it, you would need 6v to max out the power.
Excellent tutorial, I'll include it on the site if you're ok ?
Oct 12, 2015, 02:28 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jet A1
High analogman,

Wtih Grabby via USB it is possible. Done that before. Unfortunately it is not HD- grmpf.

b.r.
Wolfgang
Several rcg threads are discussing about a raspberry wifi hd video system. Of course range is limited by wifi.

I'm thinking about sending digital signals over analog vtx. A bit like an adsl modem. Quite complex, but in theory would provide enough throughput for hd video.
Oct 12, 2015, 02:30 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jet A1
Dear Ben,

WOuld it be possible to inject a calculated RSSI value - (lost package ratio)- into the data downstream? Would save a delicate soldering and a cable.
b.r.
Wolfgang
Yes thats on the todo list. I'm already decoding mavlink packets, so injecting packets should not be an issue.
Oct 12, 2015, 05:55 AM
Registered User
ghostwhiper's Avatar
anyone tried a j-pole antenna on the TX side?
not as good as a yagi but easier to take with you and much simpeler to make.
Oct 12, 2015, 10:33 AM
CS/Mathematics student
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemond

P.S. If you really want to max out your emitting power, you would want to bring the supply of ONLY the radio chip to 6.0v, or a safer 5.5. The datasheet states 6v as the max, so according to it, you would need 6v to max out the power.
Really!? I have been running my entire tx off of 5v through the serial connection the whole time! I thought the Atmel chip could go up to 18v or something rather high. Or am I just killing my radio?
Oct 12, 2015, 10:47 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
To clarify the power supply :

Normally you should never power from the serial port, because this VCC pin is directly linked to the chips (RFM module and atmega).

If you apply more than 3.3V on the serial port VCC pin, it will immediately burn the RFM on a 100mW module, but will do almost no harm on a 1W module. (which supports up to 6V).

The best is to power as shown on the schematic, because then it will go through the voltage regulator, and you can effectively apply 20 or 30V.


But what some users are discussing here is to power separately the atmega and the RFM module. It requires to cut a PCB track, and have a separate voltage supply for the RFM module. This allows to have higher output power.
Oct 12, 2015, 12:18 PM
Registered User
ghostwhiper's Avatar
i see one flaw when using a 7805 TO-220 voltage regulator. (most common)
it needs a minimum of 7 volts to operate normaly because of the +/-2 volt dropout.
for some insurance you could put an electric capacitor of about 10-100uf 25v in the schematic

edit:
schematic added from datasheet.
the datasheet i found in one of my books states that it needs a minimum of 9 volts in because of the dropout of 2 volt.
a qoute from the datasheet "for the most stable performance the input V should be 5 volts + 2x dropout voltage
Last edited by ghostwhiper; Oct 12, 2015 at 04:13 PM.


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