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Dec 26, 2013, 03:17 PM
What goes up .....
Quote:
Originally Posted by jviss
Well, Santa brought my Pandora - what a thrill!

Only complaint, and not a serious one in any event, is that some of the black paint for the faux windows transferred to the shipping container foam; must have been wet when they packed it.
I have the same problem. I bit of black paint and a coat of Future put it right. I found when I just used the paint it got damaged again. The Future puts a hard shell on it.
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Dec 26, 2013, 03:21 PM
What goes up .....
Taz,
Thanks for the great reply. I'm new to this foam painting, so am just beginning to work out the problems like masking etc. You have helped a lot.
Your blue T28 is the best one I have seen. Great job.
Last edited by Seacondor; Dec 26, 2013 at 05:25 PM.
Dec 26, 2013, 05:17 PM
Registered User
jviss's Avatar

Build and Static Trim Complete


This plane builds very quickly, 'though I tend to be slow at this sort of thing.

Flaps cut loose easily, this material is very easy to cleanly cut with a new single-edged razor blade.

Figuring out where to install the radio took me a while, and two tries; I also installed a 3-channel flight stabilizer, so used some jumpers between it and the radio. Stabilizer on/off is on the landing gear channel, flaps on the flaps channel on my DX6i.

I adjusted the rudder and elevator pushrods for neutral, and after all was together, the ailerons and flaps for neutral with the top surfaces all flush. The flaps are set up for maximum travel with the FMS 9g slow servos I installed.

I wish I had a spring balance with a high enough range to measure the thrust.
Dec 26, 2013, 11:11 PM
the_PilotRyan
ryramZ's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jviss
This plane builds very quickly, 'though I tend to be slow at this sort of thing.

Flaps cut loose easily, this material is very easy to cleanly cut with a new single-edged razor blade.

Figuring out where to install the radio took me a while, and two tries; I also installed a 3-channel flight stabilizer, so used some jumpers between it and the radio. Stabilizer on/off is on the landing gear channel, flaps on the flaps channel on my DX6i.

I adjusted the rudder and elevator pushrods for neutral, and after all was together, the ailerons and flaps for neutral with the top surfaces all flush. The flaps are set up for maximum travel with the FMS 9g slow servos I installed.


With flaps be very careful, the nose will pitch up rather quickly. Please try minimum deflection on the flaps for the first flights.
I wish I had a spring balance with a high enough range to measure the thrust.

With flaps be very careful, the nose will pitch up rather quickly. Please try minimum deflection on the flaps for the first flights.
Dec 26, 2013, 11:16 PM
Registered User
jviss's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryramZ
With flaps be very careful, the nose will pitch up rather quickly. Please try minimum deflection on the flaps for the first flights.
Thanks, Ryan! I'm a beginner, so please bear with me: what would be a minimum deflection? What angle, or deflection at the leading edge? Should I adjust that with control horn arm length, i.e., what hole the clevis is in, or on the transmitter; or both?

Thanks very much,

jv
Dec 27, 2013, 12:33 AM
the_PilotRyan
ryramZ's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jviss
Thanks, Ryan! I'm a beginner, so please bear with me: what would be a minimum deflection? What angle, or deflection at the leading edge? Should I adjust that with control horn arm length, i.e., what hole the clevis is in, or on the transmitter; or both?

Thanks very much,

jv
What radio are you using?
Dec 27, 2013, 08:44 AM
Registered User
jviss's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryramZ
What radio are you using?
I'm using a Spektrum DX6i with an AR6210 receiver and an Orange 3XS flight stabilizer.
Dec 27, 2013, 07:17 PM
Registered User
jviss's Avatar

Weight and balance


O.K., so the plane is assembled, radio and flight stabilizer installed, battery connector changed to EC3, static-trimmed, and 2200mAh 25C Lipo installed. I still need to re-check my radio setup for this model.

So, on to CG setup. I made a CG stand out of wood. It knocks down for storage. First time I've used my mortising attachment in years!

Then I consulted the Pandora manual, and they recommend a range of 70mm to 80mm back from the leading edge. They don't say if this varies with configuration, i.e., taildragger versus trike, high wing or low. I marked the wing at 75mm and tried it.

I'm in high wing, taildragger configuration.

Wow, very nose heavy! I moved the plane to where I thought it was balanced. I used the top edge of the forward decal as my level reference, only because it seemed to be about the right place. When I balanced to this line I was at 57mm back from the leading edge.

It seems I'd need some tail weight to balance here.

Questions for you guys:

1. What is the reference for level, i.e., where can I measure fore and aft when setting to level on the stand?
2. Does desired CG point vary with configuration?
3. What should I use for weight, and where? I have some stick-on motorcycle wheel weights I can use, and I can make lead weights.

Some pics attached.
Dec 27, 2013, 07:21 PM
Registered User
jviss's Avatar

Rudder mix recommendation?


If I want to fly this as in aileron-elevator-throttle mode, what % mix of rudder to aileron should I add?


Thanks,

jv
Dec 27, 2013, 07:24 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
I am setting up DR and Expo on my DX6i for the Pandora. I was thinking about low rate settings for 70%DR and 20%Expo but I have no idea where I came up with those numbers. Would someone recommend the settings to start with?
Dec 27, 2013, 08:59 PM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by jviss
If I want to fly this as in aileron-elevator-throttle mode, what % mix of rudder to aileron should I add?


Thanks,

jv
You are ahead of me on this RC plane learning curve, so I can't answer any questions, but I will say that is nice balance stand!
Dec 27, 2013, 09:10 PM
Registered User
jviss's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Slowb
You are ahead of me on this RC plane learning curve, so I can't answer any questions, but I will say that is nice balance stand!
Thanks!
Dec 27, 2013, 10:26 PM
the_PilotRyan
ryramZ's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jviss
If I want to fly this as in aileron-elevator-throttle mode, what % mix of rudder to aileron should I add?


Thanks,

jv
I recommend no mixes until you fly it first. Use your thumbs. Most planes are flown with the rudder and throttle set to the left stick and aileron and elevator to the right. I can only recommend flying it that way. I think any deviation or mixing is asking for trouble.

As far as rates go. 70% travel with 20% expo is a great place to start for low rate. Leave the high rate at 100% travel and set the expo to 25 or 30%.
This is how I set up most of my planes out of the box. Normally unless it's a real sensitive plane this works just fine. Guys watch how the plane behaves on the Motion RC youtube channel. We fly all 4 of the configurations of this plane. You can see how well behaved it is, also you can see what happens when flaps are deployed. I would keep the flaps out of the equation until you have gained confidence flying the model as is. They are fun but not necessary. This is true especially if you are a beginner, my best advice is to keep as simple as possible until you are ready to add another dimension to your flying. Subscribe to the Motion RC Youtube channel and have access to all of their fine flying videos and especially check out all 4 of the Pandora.
Freewing Pandora 4-in-1 PNP Flight Review - Config 4: High Wing and Tricycle Gear (10 min 8 sec)
Dec 27, 2013, 10:34 PM
Registered User
Wintr's Avatar
The horizontal stab should be just about level; you really want the center line of the fuse level. Mine was nose heavy too, but I added different wheels, because the foam wheels wouldn't hold up on our runway, so I though that was the cause. I shifted the battery as far aft as it would, and still be under the strap. I also added some rug tape, the kind that keeps them from sliding about, to the surface of the battery tray, so the battery couldn't slide out from under the strap. Still not enough, so I drilled a hole in the tail and inserted a few pieces of wheel weight, and covered the hole with covering material.
Dec 27, 2013, 11:14 PM
Registered User
jviss's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ryramZ
I recommend no mixes until you fly it first. Use your thumbs. Most planes are flown with the rudder and throttle set to the left stick and aileron and elevator to the right. I can only recommend flying it that way. I think any deviation or mixing is asking for trouble.
Thanks Ryan, for your detailed response. I feel I may not have communicated well; but perhaps it's just my naiveté and I just don't understand your comment. What I was asking was, that if I program my transmitter to input a certain amount of rudder in proportion to aileron input, what amount, in percentage, would be appropriate? This is like the way my full-scale Ercoupe didn't have rudder pedals, but had permanently-linked aileron and rudder controls, so that the rudder always moved just enough to counteract the aileron adverse yaw, producing always-coordinated turns. The DX6i allows this, and calls it "mixing," I think.

I wasn't thinking of reassigning the stick functions, i.e., "modes."

Thanks,

jv


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