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Jan 29, 2020, 02:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by icarus the 2nd
Thanks Andreas, I might give the upgrade to 4S on the stock motor & prop a chance. That Yuki brainergy 4S 2800mAh is a 'special dimensions' lipo, I had one and it's very compact.
this is a pic from the problem i have had with the screws which tighten the wings i put from both sides a small metal stripe in the foam before that i prepared them to hold the screws then hold them in a candle light to make them hot and then put them in the foam now you can tighten both screws in the metal stripes hard enough better then only in the plastic thread i hope my english writing is good enough tell me when you have an idea to translate it better
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Jan 29, 2020, 04:41 AM
Fly as high as the sun
icarus the 2nd's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by PANDORAFAN
this is a pic from the problem i have had with the screws which tighten the wings i put from both sides a small metal stripe in the foam before that i prepared them to hold the screws then hold them in a candle light to make them hot and then put them in the foam now you can tighten both screws in the metal stripes hard enough better then only in the plastic thread i hope my english writing is good enough tell me when you have an idea to translate it better
don't worry your english is fine!

I can imagine that the plastic wing connection pieces are under more stress because of your 4S upgrade, it looks like you found a good fix!
Jan 29, 2020, 12:40 PM
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SilverSport's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by icarus the 2nd
Thanks Andreas, I might give the upgrade to 4S on the stock motor & prop a chance. That Yuki brainergy 4S 2800mAh is a 'special dimensions' lipo, I had one and it's very compact.
Wow .... I'll agree from looking at the specs .... I don't know if they sell those in the states. That 2800 pack is 30g heavier than the 2200 pack and only 3mm wider .... wereas the same C rated 2600 is 15g heavier than the 2800 and a lot bigger, but still rather slim at 22mm high but much wider and longer ... but may fit our Pandora's limited hatch opening space, but the 2800 looks like a dream pack!

As for the language, I can't understand your native language, but I can understand your English a lot better than many of the manuals for our RC Planes/Heli's and Parts from China.
Last edited by SilverSport; Jan 29, 2020 at 12:50 PM.
Jan 29, 2020, 12:48 PM
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I thought you were talking about where the wing halves bolt into the center section ... not where the center section bolts to the fuselage. I thought they had metal nuts built in there, since it is a machine thread. I have mines setup low wing and since I got it already assembled, I have never taken the wing halves off the center bottom section.

I am hoping it will work as my first FPV platform .... it is certainly big enough to handle the additional equipment, though that stuff is not all that heavy for LOS range flying, it is just a rather heavy plane already with power system limitations and will probably need some re engineering.
Feb 03, 2020, 10:14 AM
Regexistentialist
ridgerunr's Avatar

Maiden!


Maidened my Pandora last Saturday evening from the "Rails-2-Trails" bike path just south of Elsinore, UT.

This is my first powered RC plane (with wheels) that takes off and lands from the ground - (all my previous RC experience is with gliders and helis). Only four Pandora flights with a few touch-N-go's thrown in for good measure. Years of sim practice paid off as all landings were damage free.

Built the Pandora in the default high-wing, trike configuration with a simple (lightweight) 4-channel RX setup (no flaps yet). I did fit it with voltage and GPS sensors and it is running off of a 2200 mAh 3S LiPo.

First impressions conclusion? Nice plane!

Last edited by ridgerunr; Feb 03, 2020 at 11:37 AM. Reason: Fixed image
Feb 04, 2020, 08:33 AM
Registered User
Great View ridgerunr !
Wish i could use so a wonderful place also to fly my pandora.when you have made 30 or more flights with the dora try to use it with 4 s

Much fun for the future

ANDREAS
Mar 18, 2020, 08:50 AM
Registered User
This question may have been answered but I have not been able to find it yet. My Pandora did not come with any measurements to set the control surface deflections. Can someone tell me what these deflection settings are supposed to be? Thanks!
Mar 18, 2020, 07:33 PM
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I don't have the measurements, I just set my radio at 100%, 85% and 70% as I usually do and see how it handles. Then if I need more or less I can adjust with % or move holes on the control horns.

I have only a few flights on mine. I have only found I want more power, but it flies well.
Mar 20, 2020, 10:29 AM
Regexistentialist
ridgerunr's Avatar
I have a similar setup for rates: 100%, 75% and 50%.

My control linkages are on the outermost servo arm hole, and on the middle hole of the control surface horn.
Mar 20, 2020, 05:50 PM
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Outer most hole on the Rudder and Elevator control horns, servos as set by factory, I do recall that the nose wheel is kinda touch when you have 100% rate - can't recall but I may have moved that one in when I had to change the servo and put the servo saver on it for the nosewheel - broke on 3rd flight ... nose wheel hit first after a bounced mains first landing. Flaps and Ailerons I have outer most on servo and center hole on the surface control horns.
Mar 21, 2020, 07:57 AM
Registered User
Guess I should see how mine is setup ... it’s packed away now. Gonna have to wait until things improve. I do know my tail wheel was WAY too sensitive ...
Mar 21, 2020, 09:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FR4-Pilot
Guess I should see how mine is setup ... itís packed away now. Gonna have to wait until things improve. I do know my tail wheel was WAY too sensitive ...
Well I just pulled out the parts box. I had ordered a new arm for the Rudder/Nose/Tail Wheel servo when I ordered the parts for the fix and parts to upgrade to flaps. If you ever need to order that servo - it comes with an arm same as the OEM one, just Black instead of White. You have to drill out the hole to get the fitting for the rearward control rods mounted.

I put a servo saver on for the nose wheel which is on the other side, that one needed to be drilled out to for the servo saver, it may be the same amount as for the screw down swivel connector - but I rather do it right. The OEM connectors are on the inner most holes of the servo arms for both the nose wheel and opposite side for Rudder and Tail Wheel. There is a little meat to possibly move it a little closer to the servo arm center, I didn't try that, yet, I just figured I would reduce my rudder rate ... I got three switch positions, now to figure out how to set them for High, Low and Taxi. Don't want to have too little Rudder for takeoff and landing, you never know when you need to crab it in, or out sometimes. I have only flown it off concrete runway .... I suspect grass to be a little less sensitive.
Mar 23, 2020, 03:09 PM
Registered User
Pandora is all done and ready for a maiden flight - just need the rain to stop. I have a attached a photo I took today while calculating the CG and balancing my Pandora. You engineers out there (like me) will appreciate this and everybody else will get a chuckle over such a complicated process for such an easy task! Laser level used to level horizontal stab, wheel distances measured from 0 datum and weight on each wheel is measured with a digital postal scale. Moments and total weights are calculated and CG is determined! Enjoy!!
Mar 23, 2020, 03:12 PM
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Sure hope you put the battery in there before all that.

So what did you come up with in relation to what the manufacturer recommends .... from same point of measure.
Mar 23, 2020, 03:18 PM
Registered User
Battery was in place, I am using a 2600 rather than the 2200 recommended so it is a tad heavier. With battery full forward, CG is 69.7mm from leading edge. Manufacturer recommends between 70mm and 80mm from leading edge. If I slide the battery back about 3/4 inch the CG then becomes 70.2 mm from the leading edge. So even with a little heavier battery it is right at the forward recommended CG without adding any additional weight.


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