Originally Posted by denisoni1

Those who might want to see whats in their boat

https://youtu.be/4XIz5d1TBtk

DF95 in an IOM thread
Yeah, but does it record like this?

HItec 815BB sail arm servo (0 min 42 sec)

Hi

What does everyone use to put on the frames please? We have being using a plastic cellotape, but the planks arent really sticking, and are coming off while we are trying to build her. Would masking tape be better, and if so which one please?

Thanks

i’ve used the blue stuff. titebond will stick to it as will be evidensed by blue lines such.

Originally Posted by Whitaker

i’ve used the blue stuff. titebond will stick to it as will be evidensed by blue lines such.

That's an odd looking IOM !

Originally Posted by Waikiwi

Hi

What does everyone use to put on the frames please? We have being using a plastic cellotape, but the planks arent really sticking, and are coming off while we are trying to build her. Would masking tape be better, and if so which one please?

Thanks

The tape you are using is fine, after all we don't want anything to stick where we put it. What I do to keep movement of the strips under control is to leave the pins holding the rows of strips in place as long as I can ie: until I run out of pins. I have a couple hundred of them and usually have most of them in use at some point in a build. After I have say, 15 or 20 strips in place, I'll leave the pins in every third row and not necessarily on every station. YMMV.

Dale

Originally Posted by Scratchy101

That's an odd looking IOM !

Yup. Probably gonna get quite a bit of drag from that transom.

Dale

Originally Posted by Scratchy101

That's an odd looking IOM !

Odd is good. Who wants to design another clone? And what makes anyone think that a wider stern is automatically slower? Check out Comanche.

Vive la difference!

Originally Posted by Alistego

Yup. Probably gonna get quite a bit of drag from that transom.

Dale

I know the boat built from this plug - it's very fast............

Originally Posted by Alistego

The tape you are using is fine, after all we don't want anything to stick where we put it. What I do to keep movement of the strips under control is to leave the pins holding the rows of strips in place as long as I can ie: until I run out of pins. I have a couple hundred of them and usually have most of them in use at some point in a build. After I have say, 15 or 20 strips in place, I'll leave the pins in every third row and not necessarily on every station. YMMV.

Dale

If you don't want to see pin holes, this pic shows all my methods of holding planks in place. Titebond holds on to the 3m masking tape and releases no problem.
The trick is to keep a damp cloth on hand and wipe off excess glue as you go, it makes for a cleaner hull inside and less sanding and scraping

Thanks sightline. Really appreciate that picture showing how you do it. We ended up pulling the planks we had done off the formers (half falling off anyway!), and will try again. Nothing like building the boat twice right This time, we will use the 3m masking tape with the titebond.

Another question please if you dont mind. I'm not sure what design you have there sightline, but does it have a hard chine? The iom we're building does, and it is proofing to be quite hard to plank. If you dont mind sharing, could you please tell me how you plank the hull ie in what order? Do you lay a plank on the keelson, or several here first? And do you lay a plank on the chine line and but the ones you have started putting in from the sheer line into it?



Appreciate any advice or photos

Thanks

If you look closely at the picture you can see the 2 chine planks I've laid. This is a new build I just started. I do the keel plank first to hold the shadows in place, then both sheerline planks then the chine. There is no right or wrong way to do it, some lay the chine first and work their way up and down. I prefer to make sure I use a full plank on the sheer line up to station 5 thereabouts then keep it straight going forward ( make sense?) get that right then work up to the chine and fore deck sheer line.
The chine planks are difficult. Take two planks and taper the inside gradually where the chine is located and dry fit them so they fit together without an outside gap following the chine line. You can then choose whether to glue one down first or together. I don't have a good answer here as this is only my 2nd build - sorry.
The next step is painful - you will have to make 2 pieces to fit the gap between the sheer line and the chine, it will be trial and error. If you don't have a good micro block plane - get one, it makes it much easier.
Make sure you have drawn the chine line on the shadows so you can look inside and make sure the planks are on plane.
Hope this helps

Originally Posted by Scratchy101

That's an odd looking IOM !

The picture makes it look odd its not as radical as it looks but it does have a wider stern than a bp but not as wide as a kantun 2. i’m happy with its performance. mk2 with some fin and deck
mods is nearing completion.

Thanks, that helps.
Also looking at the big pic on my PC instead of a thumbnail on my phone helps.

Finally got around to starting this and sharing it out

360 Cam Race Mark & Buoy, Remote Activated (3 min 6 sec)

Quick question ... does this ONLY mean the keel must be static and and not canting etc?