Shop our Airplanes Products Drone Products Sales
Thread Tools
Nov 11, 2013, 02:18 PM
Registered User
Im just about to pull the trigger love that camera and flight time. Is there any way to mod it to be a hardcore FPV machine , 2km range?? more power to video and radio TX or better antennas? is it possible. DJI must know we want longer range for this amazing craft
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Nov 11, 2013, 02:57 PM
1.21 Gigawatts!
Steph280's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by vartaz
Im just about to pull the trigger love that camera and flight time. Is there any way to mod it to be a hardcore FPV machine , 2km range?? more power to video and radio TX or better antennas? is it possible. DJI must know we want longer range for this amazing craft
You are probably better off getting a Phantom 1 and add your own video transmission system. The Vision will not give you 2km range both video and RC, and you will not be able to use any goggles or LCD screens other than an iOS/Android tablet.
Nov 11, 2013, 03:34 PM
HGT
HGT
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by Studiowise
would i be thrown out of the 'community' if i swapped my LED's - so green to red and red to green? it just always feels like im 'driving' in reverse with my tail-lights coming at me!
Or you can but the red and green on the correct sides. Both are possible.
Nov 11, 2013, 03:34 PM
HGT
HGT
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by studiowise
i have no doubt it's effective but it ain't gonna win any beauty awards is it
+1....
Nov 11, 2013, 03:39 PM
Registered User
kiwirider's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by RemE
Your application is a perfect use model for a Vision! The still photos are the Vision's best attribute.

When DJI comes out with the 46MM Lens Filter Adapter kit, you could research IR pass filters. I haven't checked the Vision but most all solid state cameras can see outside our visible light spectrum. Take a IR TV remote and point it at the Vision's camera, you should be able to see it blink. I bet you can find a 46mm lens filter that will block most of the visible light and enhance the IR content, just guessing right now.

Please share what you find! Very interesting.
You'll probably have to remove the IR blocking filter (sometimes known as the low-pass filter) otherwise they will be fighting with each other with a consequence that the exposure times will be very long. You are quite right though in that silicon is sensitive to very near IR - up to about 1200 nm.

If you remove the blocking filter and replace it with a 750nm IR pass filter, you will get some very interesting images!

Once I get my some practice in with the Vision (my first RC), I'll be tempted to try this myself
Nov 11, 2013, 03:56 PM
Registered User
kiwirider's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lame Bucket
This will allow NIR and most of the visible red light (red actually starts around 620nm), however this will block all green and blue light into the sensor. You would be able to make a NDVI (using the red) however you will not be able to make a full false colored image. But since this will be a screw on kit and you will be able to swap between traditional filter and this filter than you will be able to overlay the NDVI the traditional photo for some really good quality images. This would probably work great! You will probably have to increase the exposure or shutter speed (I honestly don't know much about cameras) due to the amount of blocked light.
I don't know anything about NDVI I have done quite a lot of work with IR and CMOS sensors though. The filter quoted would be a good starter - it is good quality Schott glass. I think I would want to be going a bit higher though - say 720nm ....

Do you need visible red for NDVI?
Nov 11, 2013, 04:13 PM
UK Photog
Studiowise's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by HGT
Or you can but the red and green on the correct sides. Both are possible.
sorry HGT, that one passed me by. can you elaborate as i think the 'correct' bit confuzzed me
Nov 11, 2013, 04:37 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by kiwirider
I don't know anything about NDVI I have done quite a lot of work with IR and CMOS sensors though. The filter quoted would be a good starter - it is good quality Schott glass. I think I would want to be going a bit higher though - say 720nm ....

Do you need visible red for NDVI?
We have a wide verity of expertise in this group! Whatever you can tell us about this sensor may be helpful to those who don't know a lot about cameras (aka - me). As far as NDVI, you do need a visible band as a basis of comparison. NDVI compares whats being reflected to whats being absorbed, which can tell us a lot about the health of the plant. If its not absorbing or reflecting as it should be, this can mean that the plant is either sick or damaged. Most often NIR and VIS-R are compared.

If you are going to go with a strictly IR filter for vegetation analysis I wouldn't go any higher than what kiwirider said (720nm). I have found it often better to go with a filter that captures as much of the NIR as possible to help identify the plants absorption signature. Every plant reacts slightly different to VIS and NIR radiation, some absorb more and some less. Some more in the 800nm area some more in the 950nm. So much so that it creates a kind of "fingerprint" for each plant type. So if you were interested in doing something like this and you purchased a 950nm filter, you would cutting out a large amount of the data available to you. This of course is bound by the limitations of the equipment and software.

That is just my findings though! If you find otherwise please feel free to say so, an open discussion on the topic is always helpful to all
-LB

EDIT:

Ok so rereading the filter it says that it BLOCKS everything till 650 (VIS-R is 620–750nm) and it allows 90% of light from 730 - 2000nm. So what does it do with the light from 650 - 730nm? Ideally if you are doing NDVI's you'd want to take the image without a filter to capture as much of the NIR and VIS as possible. However if you were just doing NIR imaging and didnt want to do NDVI's I think either of those filters would work fine.
Last edited by Lame Bucket; Nov 11, 2013 at 04:52 PM.
Nov 11, 2013, 04:41 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Studiowise
sorry HGT, that one passed me by. can you elaborate as i think the 'correct' bit confuzzed me
Planes use red and green but on their sides. I dont know which side is red and which side or green but I suspect that's what HGT meant. Port side and etc.
Nov 11, 2013, 04:52 PM
HGT
HGT
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by Studiowise
sorry HGT, that one passed me by. can you elaborate as i think the 'correct' bit confuzzed me
A typo may be confusing you. Put red on port, green on starboard.

If you swap these 2 ESC's you will be official and prop rotation will be the same

Last edited by HGT; Nov 11, 2013 at 05:04 PM.
Nov 11, 2013, 04:58 PM
Registered User
I upgraded the software on the quad itself no problem, using the manual as a guide, but how do you upgrade the remote controller? The manual says to connect a usb cable to it, or if there isn't any; remove the back cover????
Nov 11, 2013, 05:03 PM
1.21 Gigawatts!
Steph280's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by gathan
I upgraded the software on the quad itself no problem, using the manual as a guide, but how do you upgrade the remote controller? The manual says to connect a usb cable to it, or if there isn't any; remove the back cover????
Yes open it up. USB plug is on top of the circuit board (to the left of the 3 plugs).

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...&postcount=985
Nov 11, 2013, 05:12 PM
UK Photog
Studiowise's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by HGT
A typo may be confusing you. Put red on port, green on starboard.

If you swap these 2 ESC's you will be official and prop rotation will be the same

ah i get you, now, i did use to do a bit of sailing but port & starboard wasn't where i was going with this as i used to have near misses under wind power when heading towards something in the fog that was also only showing running lights!
i was thinking adding high beam WHITE LED 'headlights' for front and swop the red to the rear for tail-lights? ive not (yet ) opened up the PV2 but it shouldn' t be a massive job and at least then the warning / info sequences would remain the same.
Nov 11, 2013, 05:29 PM
HGT
HGT
Suspended Account
Wrong thread...
Last edited by HGT; Nov 11, 2013 at 05:36 PM.
Nov 11, 2013, 05:36 PM
HGT
HGT
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by Studiowise
ah i get you, now, i did use to do a bit of sailing but port & starboard wasn't where i was going with this as i used to have near misses under wind power when heading towards something in the fog that was also only showing running lights!
i was thinking adding high beam WHITE LED 'headlights' for front and swop the red to the rear for tail-lights? ive not (yet ) opened up the PV2 but it shouldn' t be a massive job and at least then the warning / info sequences would remain the same.
My bad... I thought I was in the Phantom thread.