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Dec 01, 2013, 12:42 PM
DS will change your life
SpeedsterDEN's Avatar
Thread OP
Arthobbypilot at speeddating

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Dec 01, 2013, 06:08 PM
The Lone Blue Plaid Flyer
Bob Cook's Avatar
Hi Guys,

I'm starting to build a Castor. Now replaced by the Orion. I'm over on the electric sight. All this advise is great. I'm going with a poly wing and normal tail.
I can't wait to fly it in the Spring.

Bob in Seattle
Dec 02, 2013, 10:45 AM
Director of Entropy
EarthMagnet's Avatar
Odyssey is almost done. I have everything installed and all servos trimmed by eye, with some black tape on the bottom of the wing. Only problem: I "temporarily" installed the elevator and rudder push rods without gluing the tail boom onto the fuse, and now I can't get the "temporary" rods out! Unfortunately I can't glue the boom unless I can get it apart, and I ended up breaking a control rod sleeve attempting to undo everything so now I need to order some new control rods and sleeves. Whoops.

Any tips on getting the boom aligned correctly with the fuse? Or is the easiest way to just mount the horizontal stab and center wing section and align them by eye?

On the plus side, I noticed a lot of movement in the elevator control rod inside the fuse, so when I do get it apart I will make three round balsa bulkheads with notches for the control rods to hold them in place. I'll install them with a small wood screw mounted on the end of a stick and push them down into the boom, then remove the stick and drop some glue down the boom, keeping the glue away from the control rod sleeves in case I ever need to remove and replace them. I thought about using expandable foam, but I really don't like that stuff since it tends to expand into places I don't want it.

So now I'm just waiting for new control rods...
Dec 02, 2013, 11:20 AM
Registered User
For the stab, I would mount the wing and turn the plane upside-down on a large flat surface (the dining room table or the floor might work). Then raise up the stab as needed to get it flat and level before gluing the boom.

For the control rods inside the boom, you could stuff some pieces of foam down into it at varying distances to keep the pushrods from moving around. Maybe 3 or 4 pieces would work.
Dec 02, 2013, 11:22 AM
Registered User
I'm not a high tech guy. I just put a straightedge across the wing saddle and another behind the tail as a reference and use my eyeball. Works for me. I use CA for the pod/boom joint but that can come loose after a hard landing so I use a single turn of black vinyl electrical tape over the joint as insurance.

Something you might consider: Once you get your alignment set, use hobby enamel and paint a thin alignment reference mark across the joint. This gives you a easy way to confirm alignment.

Dec 02, 2013, 11:45 AM
Director of Entropy
EarthMagnet's Avatar
Ah, excellent advice. I wouldn't have thought about using foam scraps down the boom, that's too simple! I tend to over complicate things.

I'm also starting to second guess how I have the channels and radio setup. This is my first aileron, flap, rudder, elevator plane and I'm using an airtronics sd-6g. I currently have the flap servos wired to the same channel, but maybe they should be separate... I have two mix options and three flight modes so I need to do some research to figure out the best way to set her up.

Thanks for the help so far
Dec 02, 2013, 02:35 PM
DS will change your life
SpeedsterDEN's Avatar
Thread OP
My set up for the thermic, allmost the same on my Odyssey.
Dont know if this will help you.

I can give you the my Odyssey set up if you say please....

Dec 02, 2013, 02:41 PM
Director of Entropy
EarthMagnet's Avatar
Originally Posted by SpeedsterDEN
My set up for the thermic, allmost the same on my Odyssey.
Dont know if this will help you.

I can give you the my Odyssey set up if you say please....

Sure, Please! That would be helpful for newbies like me. I've suddenly gone from two servos to six servos so any guidance is appreciated. Sort of kicking myself that I didn't get the sd-10g instead though...
Dec 02, 2013, 03:02 PM
Registered User
John Cole's Avatar
I did a build thread on the High Aspect a while back. There may be some useful ideas there. I still fly it regularly, it's a neat glider.
For setup: 4 channels only, 'y' ing ailerons and flaps to one channel each, taking the simple approach on this one.
Last edited by John Cole; Dec 02, 2013 at 05:33 PM. Reason: additional info
Dec 02, 2013, 03:10 PM
DS will change your life
SpeedsterDEN's Avatar
Thread OP
Aile 50%
Elev 30%
Rud 30%

Elev: 10 mm up/ 12 mm Down Enough for tight loops and inverted loops.
Aile: 25 mm up/ 12 mm Down
Rud: 28 mm

This give together with the Expo a realy nice and manoureable glider, and due to the Expo, still a calm and trusty glider without any bad habbits.

Flaps: 50 degree down / and crow aileron up 18 mm
Elev comp, when full flaps/crow is 4 mm Down

Snapflaps 1.5 mm up and Down (when full elevator Down and up)
(You dont need this)

Full span ailerons (aile mix together with flaps)
When full aileron the flap go 4 mm Down and 1,5 mm up.
This give a bit faster roll rate, but you dont need it for the first flights,
If not set the aile Expo to 30 %...

My thermal flt mode is: flaps Down 2mm and aile Down 1 mm
Speed is flaps up 1,5 mm and aile up 1 mm.

Good luck

Questions, just ask
Dec 14, 2013, 09:55 AM
Registered User
Woo hoo! Just arrived.

And so it begins:
Dec 14, 2013, 12:49 PM
Registered User

I always get hypnotized by the a thing for it.

Enjoy your build and you will certainly enjoy your flying.

Dec 14, 2013, 01:14 PM
Registered User
I much prefer wood planes as opposed to composites. To be honest, I'm not really a fan of the foam-core wings, either. I like built-up wings much better and they're nicer looking, too.
Dec 21, 2013, 04:48 AM
DS will change your life
SpeedsterDEN's Avatar
Thread OP
2 persons in my RC Club just got 2 different Blejzyk models.

3.6 meters Vampire, and the 1.9 meters Mefisto.
They are very similar to the Arthobby gliders.

The difference is that you should not cut the ailerons and flaps on the Blejzyk wings, and they are hinged like cfk models in a beautiful way.

But on the Vampire you must glue in the wing tip Joyners yourself.

Both kits looking great.

Maiden flight for the Vampire yesterday.

Vampire 3,6 meter, Maiden flight (1 min 11 sec)

Merry Christmas

Dec 25, 2013, 03:02 PM
Registered User
Building my Thermic at the moment (polyhedral, no ailerons) and I'm going to add flaps, mainly for landing control. My plan was originally going to be to build them top-drive (like DLG flaperons), but I don't think I can get enough flap deflection that way. So I changed my approach and now I'm going to bottom-mount everything. My target is to have at least 80 degrees down-deflection and reserve 10 degrees for up-deflection.

My question is: What width should I make the flaps? I'm going to make them about 21 inches long (between the root and the first polyhedral joint), but since I'm not going to match them up with the ailerons, I can afford to make them basically any width I want. Does anyone have any recommendations? I was thinking about maybe 1.75 inches (about 24% of the wing chord). Does this seem reasonable?

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