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Oct 04, 2013, 10:24 AM
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How to make wings and hinges in coro


How to make wings and hinges in coro
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Oct 04, 2013, 02:06 PM
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Check Spad To The Bone. I don't think anyone could type enough to explain it as good as them. The hinge is just one side of the coro removed where needed. I couldn't tell exactly what the question is, but figure you want to know more about it.
Oct 05, 2013, 12:19 AM
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I tried using that method in coro but it didn't work I just cut it apart my hands are not made for such a stable work
Oct 05, 2013, 02:47 AM
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The 'cut flute' method does require some dexterity, particularly if you don't have a 'hinge tool'. That said, practice on lots of scrap and I am sure you will master the technique. If you don't have a hinge tool (most of us outside the US), the trick is to fold the correx back once you have made the first cut...this enables you to easily trim away the excess correx to create the desired U-shaped hinge.

If that does not work, just cut the aileron separately and tape it on with packing tape across the top surface. The Mugi flying wing uses tape rather than a cut flute (see www.mugi.co.uk).
Last edited by Extreme Sports; Oct 09, 2013 at 06:44 AM. Reason: used 'hinge' in last paragraph when I meant 'aileron'
Oct 06, 2013, 07:05 AM
Rusty
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An easy, if noisy, hinge can be made by making one straight cut through the top and bottom surfaces either side of a flute.
Oct 06, 2013, 09:31 AM
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Hi Extreme Sports
I am one of those who made and use the "hinge tool". If I could not find the proper blades, I would try this: Use two small X-acto blades, mounted on a correct thickness handle, with the blades facing "backwards", which in this case is forward. I love to make tools and I believe this will work. My explanation is not perfect; use your imagination and some sketches. Let me know.
Oct 06, 2013, 09:45 AM
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Hi Rusty Nail
I like what you posted. Since I do have the hinge tool, plus to get rid of the noise you mentioned, I will used my hinge tool on the top and the bottom cuts as shown on your very clear sketch. The end result may be a better hinge. Again, thanks.
Oct 09, 2013, 02:57 AM
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thanks everyone for their response but i still can't make the hinges
Oct 09, 2013, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcniteshrc
thanks everyone for their response but i still can't make the hinges
Are you sure you have the right method?...cutting hinges should not be difficult, especially Rusty Nail's suggestion. However, it's difficult to help further without seeing what you are doing. Which is the part that is giving you trouble? For example, are you struggling to cut just one skin without cutting the other one? Do you struggle to keep the cut from jumping across flutes? Or perhaps you are finding it hard to cut away of the excess skin material?.

If its the first, can you set your hobby knife so that less than 2mm of the blade protrudes (if you have a knife with an adjustable blade)?...that way you cannot cut through both skins. Otherwise, try inserting a skewer or similar thin stick into the flute and press on that as you cut.

If you are managing to slit the flute, but can't trim the skin, just use Rusty Nail's method of cutting two flutes open.

Also, look at the corro spitfire build part 2 video in post 3 of this thread: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1445391. I have not watched it, but it says 'Aileron hinge line' at 12:11. Be warned though, from what I hear the videos are part educational, part fun...

Otherwise, if you struggle with steady hands, maybe ask someone to cut the hinges for you....should not take more than a minute per hinge.

If none of the above helps, just cut the aileron/rudder/elevator separately and tape it on - the tape will then become the hinge.
Last edited by Extreme Sports; Oct 09, 2013 at 07:40 AM.
Oct 09, 2013, 07:03 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by villapilote
Hi Extreme Sports
I am one of those who made and use the "hinge tool". If I could not find the proper blades, I would try this: Use two small X-acto blades, mounted on a correct thickness handle, with the blades facing "backwards", which in this case is forward. I love to make tools and I believe this will work. My explanation is not perfect; use your imagination and some sketches. Let me know.
Thanks, for the tip, but I've never felt the need for a hinge tool. Slit the top skin, fold the correx back on itself (i.e. away from the slit flute and hinging on the bottom skin) and then run a sharp knife held at a ~45 degree angle along each flute adjacent to the original cut. This trims off the excess skin between the original slit and the adjacent flutes . All done in 30 seconds.
Last edited by Extreme Sports; Oct 09, 2013 at 07:28 AM.
Oct 09, 2013, 09:35 AM
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i tried doing this
and i did it but then it was not moving full so i tried another one the one in the pics.






sorry for my bad drawing in the computer
Oct 09, 2013, 09:42 AM
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Extreme Sports's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by rcniteshrc
i tried doing this and i did it but then it was not moving full
What thickness correx are you using? If you have cut as per the picture, it really should move...maybe just wiggle it a few times to loosen it up? Thicker correx can be a bit stiff to bend initially.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rcniteshrc
so i tried another one the one in the pics.
What went wrong? Looks like you did the right thing.
Oct 09, 2013, 10:00 AM
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The thing which went wrong was that I cut between different flutes.

I am using 2mm coro.
Oct 09, 2013, 11:58 AM
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I just tried RN's method with 2mm correx and it bent easily. Not sure why you found that it was not moving fully.

Re your second picture, if you managed to cut exactly as you have shown in the picture, you should have a 100% functional hinge. Did it work out in the end, or are you still having a problem?

In fact, if you were able to do the cuts as in the second picture, you only needed to make one of the cuts to get a normal correx hinge.
Last edited by Extreme Sports; Oct 09, 2013 at 12:10 PM.
Oct 10, 2013, 12:22 AM
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I tried the second method but I cut through flutes


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