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Sep 30, 2013, 11:12 AM
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Stinger 64 Modifications


This is the place to post the modifications you have made to your Freewing Stinger 64.

The “other” thread has plenty listed however, there are hundreds of pages to dig through with missing information mixed in with the larger 90mm stinger.

Let’s stick with the stinger 64 here and help other owners get the most out of this poor man’s Habu.
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Sep 30, 2013, 11:14 AM
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I bought mine with the intention to make it fill two needs, a relaxing EDF model on three cells and when a need for speed comes up I can drop 4 cells in her.
I have not flown it on three cells yet but I’ll get back to you.

I bought mine from Motion RC and I’m happy with the purchase however the upgraded four cell version I bought came with three cell instructions leading me to believe there was a mistake.

I was told if my motor has a cone on the back it has been upgraded. It did so here I go.
Last edited by sparks; Oct 01, 2013 at 09:38 AM. Reason: link
Sep 30, 2013, 11:18 AM
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After digging through the other Stinger 64 thread I found several problems that needed addressing.

Cooling, landing damage to the belly, inlets and wing tips.

Since I’m here let’s give her a clear canopy and cockpit the 90 mm guys wish they had.

The parts are clockwise from the top left: canopy , belly pan wing tip guards, cockpit tub , pilot heads and instrument panel.

All the plastic parts come as an upgrade kit from my website.
Everything there is original, I don’t buy and sell, I manufacture so you will not see the same old thing there.
Sep 30, 2013, 11:22 AM
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Let’s get started.
This upgrade kit comes with two magnets and two pieces of steel.
Pull the steel piece from the fuselage and the magnet from the canopy.

Cut a small patch of plastic film that protected the canopy and use the supplied magnet to hold the “factory” magnet to the bottom of the cockpit tub.

Use masking tape to cover the holes that was used to hold the steel in place. Yes, remove the grill from the belly and install the tape from the inside.
Apply three drops of epoxy to the magnet and several more to the bottom of the hole where the steel was and put the cockpit tub in place.
Sep 30, 2013, 11:25 AM
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After the epoxy sets up. Drop the supplied magnets in place and draw a line around them front and back.

Make a hole where they were by twisting a hobby knife. Be careful the plastic is fairly thin at the front location.

Cover the fuselage magnets with plastic film from the canopy and install the cockpit tub.

Put the supplied magnets in place and apply a little epoxy. Use a Q tip to spread the epoxy around in the forward location, this will bond the magnet and reinforce the plastic thickness. Two applications are best here to avoid building heat.
Sep 30, 2013, 11:32 AM
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Three heads are better than one.


The kits come with three heads because without a head the clear canopy is pointless.
Most ( not all) ARF builders have limited model building skills and this gives them a chance to get their feet wet and create something that is their own.

So, sand the back of the parts sheet until the plastic gets thin around the heads then stop.
Remove the heads by completing the cut where it is sticking with a hobby knife. ( the sandpaper grit is in the 180 to 240 range)
While you are there cut the instrument panel leaving a 1/16 flange around the front and no flange at the aft panel.

Note: the pilot heads are identified in pairs at the neck with “dents”. That is to say, match the halves by the amount of dents that are formed in the neck.
Trace around the heads with a pencil then use model cement to form a dipping puddle to apply the cement then bond the halves.
Handling the heads by the neck will keep the fingerprints in a place where they can’t be seen.
Let the heads dry completely, overnight is best. It’s a little messy but by the third head you will have it down.
Bond the instrument panel in place. Note the model cement bottle at the bottom of the photo. It is testers brand and works very well.
Sep 30, 2013, 11:34 AM
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Cut the hole in the torso to accept the head and test fit removing small amounts of plastic until the head is in place.
Removing plastic up to the top edge of the collar will get you very close.
Test fit the canopy before bonding the head in place!

Apply model cement and use tape to hold it down while it dry’s.

The plastic is very smooth and trying to paint without primer causes paint brush strokes to be a problem. The paint needs a “rough” surface to flow evenly so be sure to prime the cockpit tub.

There is a tutorial on my website covering pilot painting that would be helpful to newbies. You can find it under the banner listed as instructions.
While the cockpit painting project progresses I’ll move on to the other modifications.
Sep 30, 2013, 11:38 AM
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belly protection


Use the clear belly pan as a guide to clear the foam in the landing gear hole.
Paint the inside of the scoop so the hole will not be noticed and cut the cooling air inlet.

This hole has a slightly larger opening than the stock grill but the real improvement is in how it is drawn into the compartment.
Search NACA scoop to see how they work.

Trim the excess plastic from the belly pan.

There are no trim lines for you here aside from the line at the nose that will make the pan flush with the nose cone.
The inlet guard portion of the piece wraps around the around the edge as far as I could get it but you should grind it back to the halfway point of the inlet rim.
Sep 30, 2013, 11:40 AM
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Wing tip guards


The wing tip guards couldn’t have come out better, they slide in place and fit like a glove.
There are no trim lines so you can use as much or as little of the guard as you like.
I trimmed mine as shown in an attempt to take advantage of the protection and save any additional weight there is.

I used a small amount of silicone to bond the guard to the wing.
Note that it was a mistake to apply it to the leading edge.
Applying the silicone to the lower half of the leading edge will prevent the dark spots from showing up on the top of the wing
Sep 30, 2013, 11:44 AM
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Canopy install


Rough trim the canopy and place it on the installed cockpit tub.
Mark the edge of canopy above the bond line; where the canopy becomes “window” .
That is a sharpie pen and the ink will wipe off with a rag dampened with alcohol.
Remove the canopy and cut about ¼ inch from the line.

Lightly sand the canopy below the line and a little around the cockpit tub.

Blow the cockpit tub clean and clean the inside of the canopy, it’s your last chance.
Apply epoxy to the cockpit tub and put the canopy in place. Sounds too easy right?
Sep 30, 2013, 11:46 AM
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Application is half the battle.


Well I mix my epoxy in a sandwich bag.
The corner of the bag gets pushed into a Dixie cup and equal amounts of epoxy is put in the bag.
The bag is removed and twisted to make a seal and the epoxy is mixed my kneading or massaging the bag.
The corner of the bag is cut off to make a small hole. This forms a pointed nozzle to apply the epoxy to the cockpit tub.

The cockpit tub acts like a bib protecting the model from the glue and I hold it in place while it sets up

Sliding the canopy aft until the pointed end nests ensures it is in the right place.
Please note that the aft end of the cockpit tub needs the thin plastic film under it to protect the fuselage during bonding.
You can see it in the photo.

All that is left is to let the epoxy to cure completely, remove the cockpit hatch and trim the edges.
I taped off mine and painted the plastic below the window black then trimmed the hatch by cutting then grinding the plastic.
Sep 30, 2013, 11:47 AM
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I’ll get some stick time with my Stinger 64 and return with any other modifications.

There was a guy on the other thread that added a wheel where the forward skid bump is.
Might be a good idea but I want to see how all this goes first.
Sep 30, 2013, 11:56 AM
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How fast you think she is stock 4s?
Sep 30, 2013, 01:00 PM
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I just finished with my upgrades and have yet to install the rest and get a flight in.
But I've watched flights on you tube and wouldn't want to be on the runway with the radar gun .
One guy posted a video where the model was sitting on the tail feathers, punched the throttle and flew away.
His equipment was not listed hence the need for this thread.
Sep 30, 2013, 05:13 PM
Registered User
Whats a good site to buy RC Lander edf units from? Think ima throw one of those in mine.


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