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Nov 16, 2013, 08:23 PM
Registered User
Prof100's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by SeeMeDo View Post
Well today flying buddy and I did some testing.

swapped out the eflite 60 amp esc that came with the CZC with a known good Proton 60 amp esc and still nothing in the way of lights on the Receiver while trying to bind.

Grabbed my Orange rx out of my Super Cub and tested both the eflite and Proton esc which bound just fine.

Pretty sure my ASX receiver is bad now but don't have a lot of confidence in the e-flite 60 amp esc since it may have cooked the ASX receiver.

Another call to Horizon Hobby another week or so without flying the Carbon Z cub. I'm pretty disappointed right now considering this is suppose to be a BNF not take apart and test. Jeff
That is discouraging. However, you can fly it now with a Orange Receiver and Proton 60 amp if the BEC can handle the servos.
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Nov 16, 2013, 10:57 PM
Registered User
Last week I was playing around dragging the wing tips when it tipped a bit to far forward and bang. Prop hit the dirt, the whole prop assembly comes flying off the motor shaft taking part of the cowl with it. Of course the prop adapter had to bend in the process.

I ordered the prop shaft listed for the bl50 motor and cowl, when it arrived today the prop shaft is about half the diameter of the original. I had to reem the prop some so I could slide on a spare apc prop spacer piece. Hopefully they will add the proper adapter in the parts section. Not sure I really trust this thin one.
Last edited by Troy S; Nov 16, 2013 at 11:04 PM.
Nov 16, 2013, 10:58 PM
Suspended Account
Quote:
Originally Posted by edge_pilot View Post
I thought the same thing until I flew it off asphalt. It makes that toy like sound when on a hard surface, my Dubro's are on the way.
threw mine on just to see how they look....I dig 'em! Not to much difference in terms of look or size, but I'm 100% sure there will be a difference in the way it lands. Getting close to finishing all the small details, waiting for some paint to dry, and then hope to get this flying soon. Floats are on the way as well.
Nov 16, 2013, 10:59 PM
Registered User
Prof100's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy S View Post
Last week I was playing around dragging the wing tips when it tipped a bit to much and bang. Prop hit the dirt, the whole prop assembly comes fling off the motor shaft taking part of the cowl with it.
OK, did you get it fixed and promise yourself not to do that again?
Nov 16, 2013, 11:07 PM
Registered User
Haha I'm a slow learner . I just finished editing the original post that cut off in the middle. It's just to much fun to stop.
Nov 16, 2013, 11:10 PM
Registered User
I also ordered a set of the tires and installed them on my h9 1/5 scale cub. Can't wait to see how they work out.
Nov 16, 2013, 11:39 PM
Registered User

Aero tow release


I am using a loop of waxed sail twine to go around the retracting release post, with the loop then hitched to the tow line with a very small metal O ring. My problem was that the release post would not come up on center, but would instead bind up on the edge of the loop of twine- not a reassuring connection. My solution was to drop a piece of tubing about one inch long over the release post, length determined to be just below the release slot when the post is in the fully engaged position. I used aluminum tubing because that is what I had handy, but small diameter fuel tubing would probably work better because of its greater wall thickness. The greater the wall thickness, the closer to center the release post will stay as it wends its way up and down.
Nov 16, 2013, 11:50 PM
Registered User

CZ Cub and little brother


Super Cub has a E-flite 450 installed
Nov 17, 2013, 01:46 AM
Registered User
bnick2k8's Avatar

Cracked Rudder Support


Hey Guys,

I've been following the thread from the beginning and picked up my Cub 2 days ago.. In reading the thread all the way through so many have added great build and flying suggestions so I wanted to say a big thank you and also for the great pics and video's...

She was flawless out of the box and I took my time with the build to get her put together right and to extend the fun time in building, but still she was done in just a couple hours...

I'll be flying her with a new 619 gram Turnigy 4000mAh 6S but also plan like so many others to use several of my 500Size Trex Heli 3S's together for 6S capacity...

Hopefully maiden soon when the winds slow down... I fly 3D, Pattern, Scale, CP Heli's and have been flying the little Visionair as of late with it's AS3X and AR635... I've also been flying the FY30A stabilizers for a few years now so their programming is no problem... The stabilizers are cool for teaching the grandkids and friends but I never thought I'd enjoy using them thinking I'd be fighting them all the time... Later I found that it was no problem and have come to enjoy the stability I get in winds I would have never flown in years ago... The stabilizers have their place...

Ok with that out of the way I have two questions hopefully someone may have ideas for...

First one is that while running my servos here in the house I heard a click in the rudder itself, not it's servo, so I took a look and it was broken at the joint shown below in the pic... I did use the right screw in the build but never noticed this break early on and as others have mentioned I think all the tail weight is now being supported by the rudders hinges as well as the foam rudder itself... This has me concerned a break in the actual rudder is right around the corner with couple hard hits or torque from just turns in the grass when taxing... So anyone have any suggestions as to how I can beef up this broken support link... I did just superglue it with a gap filler CA and was careful so as to not let it seep into the actual plastic pivot point below it but I don't think the CA is a long term fix if any loading gets thrown at it...

Second question if I may... What can we do about these windows...? I remember a few threads back where some guys were suggesting getting some vinyl graphics done for them maybe but I don't remember reading any other thoughts on maybe even painting them a lighter color...

I did do the leading edge sanding and touch up painting and feel better it's at least smooth now...

Ok enough... Sorry so long...
bnick
Nov 17, 2013, 03:34 AM
Registered User
Chundah's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Hilson87 View Post
Besides the QQ Horizon video are there any videos from non pro pilots?
Well, here's one my buddy did on his cell phone of my maiden.

Maiden Flight Carbon Z Cub (5 min 20 sec)


Didn't catch the full takeoff, but it took off in only a few feet with no flaps and half throttle.

Using a 6S 3300mah 45C Hyperion on this flight. Also have a 5000mah 45C I haven't tried yet. Since they recommended a 3200mah with timer set at 7 mins, I decided to be overcautious and set mine at 4 mins. After 4:30 of flight, and taxiing around the ground a bit I'd only burnt off 1100mah, so 10 mins+ seems reasonable.

Had centered control surfaces visually as much as I could and once in the air it only took 2 clicks left aileron of trim, and that was it.

The recommended 42% elevator-flap mix is a tad high for level flight, it seems to like about 38-40% better I find, still need to tweak it.

Being the maiden I flew fairly tame for me. Had bit of crosswind on takeoff and landing. Temp was -10C. Here the altitude is 3600 feet so much thinner air.

In the vid, first roll at 1:30 was on low rates, and second roll at 1:40 followed by loop were on high rates. Around 2:00 I start testing flaps and about 2:45 I chop the throttle and drop the flaps to see how long it takes to stall. At just after 3:40 I gun it and go vertical easily and keep accelerating, pulling out with a quick loop.

When I tried to stall it in the middle, it glided for a full pass each way without stalling, just didn't want to. Kept it level apart from banking for the turn and it just lost altitude slowly, but never did stall.

I put a GPS logger in there that recorded my flight and showed me my top speed was 79kph. I didn't really try for any speed runs, but expected a bit more.

Not a fan of the hard wheels, especially rolling across a field with chunks of ice. Going to be switching out for some 6" Dubro ones we have at the shop that seem about the same weight.

Landing I admit I was being a bit reckless on the landing, but wanted to see how she'd come in hot so dropped her fast near the end (and honestly my fingers were starting to freeze).

I've got it set with the GoPro mount and will be trying some FPV on the next flight, whenever I next get a chance to get out and fly again.
Nov 17, 2013, 04:56 AM
Registered User
Hi!

My TestFly Video :-) This is a Great Plane...:-) I love this Game!!!! :-)

Carbon-Z CUB SS Test Flying (5 min 42 sec)



Funtanax50
Last edited by Funtanax50; Nov 17, 2013 at 07:58 AM.
Nov 17, 2013, 06:12 AM
Plastic Buddha
aftica's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chundah View Post
Well, here's one my buddy did on his cell phone of my maiden.




Not a fan of the hard wheels, especially rolling across a field with chunks of ice. Going to be switching out for some 6" Dubro ones we have at the shop that seem about the same weight.
You might be shocked to find that the 6'' Dubros (balloon version) weigh 326G each. Have not seen the eflite wheels yet, but I hear they are 95g each. That would make for an increase in weight of 461g! More than a pound, Yikes!!
Nov 17, 2013, 07:20 AM
Suspended Account
Wow...that is significant! My 5.5" can't be that much less, so just over double the weight of the OEM wheels. I think the plane can easily handle that, will probably go with a smaller battery and shift the position.
Nov 17, 2013, 09:25 AM
So many planes, So little time
Xflyfun's Avatar

Carbon Z prop shaft


Quote:
Originally Posted by Troy S View Post
Last week I was playing around dragging the wing tips when it tipped a bit to far forward and bang. Prop hit the dirt, the whole prop assembly comes flying off the motor shaft taking part of the cowl with it. Of course the prop adapter had to bend in the process.

I ordered the prop shaft listed for the bl50 motor and cowl, when it arrived today the prop shaft is about half the diameter of the original. I had to reem the prop some so I could slide on a spare apc prop spacer piece. Hopefully they will add the proper adapter in the parts section. Not sure I really trust this thin one.
Carbon Z prop shaft... Part # EFL1045013
Name: Carbon Z prop shaft.jpg
Views: 251
Size: 197.2 KB
Description:
I talked with Jeff in customer service and got this Shaft Adapter
it was not in the parts list yet.
Nov 17, 2013, 09:27 AM
Registered User
Prof100's Avatar

Repairing the rudder plastic hinge point


Quote:
Originally Posted by bnick2k8 View Post
Hey Guys,

I've been following the thread from the beginning and picked up my Cub 2 days ago.. In reading the thread all the way through so many have added great build and flying suggestions so I wanted to say a big thank you and also for the great pics and video's...

She was flawless out of the box and I took my time with the build to get her put together right and to extend the fun time in building, but still she was done in just a couple hours...

I'll be flying her with a new 619 gram Turnigy 4000mAh 6S but also plan like so many others to use several of my 500Size Trex Heli 3S's together for 6S capacity...

Hopefully maiden soon when the winds slow down... I fly 3D, Pattern, Scale, CP Heli's and have been flying the little Visionair as of late with it's AS3X and AR635... I've also been flying the FY30A stabilizers for a few years now so their programming is no problem... The stabilizers are cool for teaching the grandkids and friends but I never thought I'd enjoy using them thinking I'd be fighting them all the time... Later I found that it was no problem and have come to enjoy the stability I get in winds I would have never flown in years ago... The stabilizers have their place...

Ok with that out of the way I have two questions hopefully someone may have ideas for...

First one is that while running my servos here in the house I heard a click in the rudder itself, not it's servo, so I took a look and it was broken at the joint shown below in the pic... I did use the right screw in the build but never noticed this break early on and as others have mentioned I think all the tail weight is now being supported by the rudders hinges as well as the foam rudder itself... This has me concerned a break in the actual rudder is right around the corner with couple hard hits or torque from just turns in the grass when taxing... So anyone have any suggestions as to how I can beef up this broken support link... I did just superglue it with a gap filler CA and was careful so as to not let it seep into the actual plastic pivot point below it but I don't think the CA is a long term fix if any loading gets thrown at it...

Second question if I may... What can we do about these windows...? I remember a few threads back where some guys were suggesting getting some vinyl graphics done for them maybe but I don't remember reading any other thoughts on maybe even painting them a lighter color...

I did do the leading edge sanding and touch up painting and feel better it's at least smooth now...

Ok enough... Sorry so long...
bnick
The cracked vertical stab plastic pivot point is an inherent design flaw (too thin of an area) or colossal process failure (brittle plastic). Arguing either is a waste of time since it is the buyer / CZC owner who has to deal with it. My CZC has not failed (knock on wood). If it did I would use JB WELD (overnight cure for strength) and devise some scheme for using a "splint" of CF to bridge the two halves together.

Last edited by Prof100; Nov 17, 2013 at 09:41 AM.


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