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Nov 03, 2013, 10:44 AM
Right Rudder
PittSpecial's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by mxcop
John gives a great tutorial on setting it up, I can be complicated to someone at first and only reading the instructions doesn't always help, seeing it makes all the difference. Hope it helps, there are some people who are under the impression that you can just install the receiver and fly it, it won't end well because the sensors are reversed on the ele/rud...

Lee Morey
Team Horizon
Lee,
So very true as a gentleman in the Sport Electric section crashed his model because I fear he did not setup!
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Nov 03, 2013, 10:47 AM
Team E.F./Horizon/Castle/Pulse
mxcop's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mobyal
Well, a bit of a stumble during assembly. I was one short of the proper-sized selftapping screw for the rudder, but that was no biggie. Had a duplicate in my "spares" container. But I could not get the hinges to stick in the rudder post using thin CA. My rudder had the hinges already permanently mounted in it, and I'm wondering if that was what has caused the problem w/ mounting on the rudder post. I've always been told that you have to install ca hinges in both surfaces simultaneously, that if you do one side then the other things won't work. So that's the way I've always done it w/ ca hinges. Plus while I was messing w/ the hinges the cheap-a** flimsy plastic piece broke off. Looks like I have two options. I can epoxy/pin the rudder hinges in the rudder post and cobble up something to deal w/ the broken plastic, or I can order a new rudder. At this point I'm not sure what I'll do. But a word of caution. Be real careful w/ that plastic piece. It is far from sturdy.
Really enjoy the thread and videos.
Keep 'em flying!


Al
You need to use a little accelerator on the hinges. Go ahead and install them the way you normally would, wick it in on both sides and then lightly spray it. Just make sure you don't over spray accelerator onto the paint it will cause the paint to come off or run. Wash your hands after use as well so you don't accidentally touch the paint with accelerator on your fingers. I haven't had any issues with the post, are you sure you used the proper size screw in it, I can see where it could crack if you use too large a diameter screw. I believe spare rudders are in stock.

Lee Morey
Team Horizon
Nov 03, 2013, 10:48 AM
Castle Support
Clintstone's Avatar
New Pulse Ultra 6s 3300 35c packs arrived last night... Can't wait to try the. Out later today....
Nov 03, 2013, 11:16 AM
Registered User
Winter snow has closed our flying field. Elizabeth Lake will not freeze over until after Christmas. So the wait is on for the plane and a frozen lake.
Nov 03, 2013, 11:20 AM
Registered User
sirzeppu's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker
Tom,

I think anything from the DX7 & up will support a full-span aileron mix. You might have to go into the sailplane menu to get there on some radios. But I fly my Spektrum-equipped aircraft with a Futaba 10CHP + DM8 module, so I'm not sure about the programming details.

Joel
I have it on my DX18...but it is not a canned mix. Pretty easy to do, though. I have mine set up as my third rate. This is NOT on the Carbon Z Cub, mind you. You will need to to go to a 7 channel Rx to make it possible. Honestly, I am thinking about doing this very thing. Would be fun to play with. Not sure this bird really *needs* as3x anyway.
Nov 03, 2013, 11:22 AM
Registered User
sirzeppu's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by flybydanny
I'm running turnigy 5000 hangin off the battery tray bout an inch seems to be fine just a tad nose heavy

Just strap it in and fly it
This is where I ended up with on a turnigy 4k. Same thing...slightly nose heavy...but still flies great.
Nov 03, 2013, 12:04 PM
Were all gonna' FLY!
beagleone's Avatar
Flew my cub yesterday first flight with nano-tech 5.0 6s. Great flight no problems at all. The flaps set to 40% was too much so I set it to 16% seems ok.
Second flight much better with flaps. BUT after pulling up out of a loop it seemed to loose power for a second but I wasn't sure. I was approaching the runway about 15ft high, flaps down, the motor quit!!! At the end of the runway we have 4ft CUBES of concrete as a barricade. The main wheels hit the edge of one of the blocks and the plane just rotated up on to it's nose and just sat there with what looked like little damage. In the pits I checked the Cub out and I find that the ESC will not arm. I tried everything I could in the pits. I connect a battery and it does nothing for about 20sec and then only the receiver will turn on but everything flashes, Today I will replace the ESC. The wing mounts at the fuselage broke. They are not all that robust. The main gear wire bent and is loose in it's mount now. I am having trouble with this *#@%*& computer. It took an hour just to type this! I will post pics tomorrow from work.
Nov 03, 2013, 12:08 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by beagleone
Flew my cub yesterday first flight with nano-tech 5.0 6s. Great flight no problems at all. The flaps set to 40% was too much so I set it to 16% seems ok.
Second flight much better with flaps. BUT after pulling up out of a loop it seemed to loose power for a second but I wasn't sure. I was approaching the runway about 15ft high, flaps down, the motor quit!!! At the end of the runway we have 4ft CUBES of concrete as a barricade. The main wheels hit the edge of one of the blocks and the plane just rotated up on to it's nose and just sat there with what looked like little damage. In the pits I checked the Cub out and I find that the ESC will not arm. I tried everything I could in the pits. I connect a battery and it does nothing for about 20sec and then only the receiver will turn on but everything flashes, Today I will replace the ESC. The wing mounts at the fuselage broke. They are not all that robust. The main gear wire bent and is loose in it's mount now. I am having trouble with this *#@%*& computer. It took an hour just to type this! I will post pics tomorrow from work.

And people wonder why I changed the ESC right out of the box
Nov 03, 2013, 12:21 PM
Mobyal
Quote:
Originally Posted by mxcop
You need to use a little accelerator on the hinges. Go ahead and install them the way you normally would, wick it in on both sides and then lightly spray it. Just make sure you don't over spray accelerator onto the paint it will cause the paint to come off or run. Wash your hands after use as well so you don't accidentally touch the paint with accelerator on your fingers. I haven't had any issues with the post, are you sure you used the proper size screw in it, I can see where it could crack if you use too large a diameter screw. I believe spare rudders are in stock.

Lee Morey
Team Horizon
Lee --
Thanks. I'll try the accelerator. The screw size is fine. Didn't crack the round part. Instead the round part broke off the rudder.
Think I'll order an extra "just in case".
Al
Nov 03, 2013, 12:40 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by rocket_33
And people wonder why I changed the ESC right out of the box
My ESC is junk, right out of the box I noticed that an end cover was not in place, lots of the thermal grease had come out. The end cover will not stay in place, that and what I feel is a horrible battery strap and One faulty elevator servo had me feeling less than satisfied with this plane. After swapping in another servo and ESC I took it up this morning for the first time. Flys great and I think it sounds very realistic! The prop sound and the sound of the airframe swoshing through the air is very cool.
Last edited by Windpower187; Nov 03, 2013 at 12:47 PM. Reason: auto text
Nov 03, 2013, 12:50 PM
Registered User
HotChaCha's Avatar

Maiden Observations... :-)


Ok...here it is...maiden flights...basically uneventful, no close calls, but definite observations. First...with wings on...this fits in my Dodge Grand Caravan. That's a definite plus.

Weather for these flights..winds @ 12 miles/hour according to weatherbug.

The prop...my prop...no good. It sounded like it was cavitating at anything much over half throttle, and there was not a great improvement in pull going to full throttle either. I'm going to balance the prop and bench test @ full throttle. This is a 15 X 5.5 prop, not a lot of pitch there. I've got other high quality props to test with. I'll be watching this group and giving my results, but I think this needs a better prop with more pitch.

Flap to elevator mix...this is for me and the way I fly. 21% down elevator for 1st flap position seems to work. That setting I like. I had mine @ 30% down elevator for 2nd position and for me...that was too much. I have since reduced 2nd position flap to elevator to 24% down. I had the deployment speed set to 2 seconds, and have now raised it to 3 seconds.

Batteries and flight time. My first flight was with a 4000mah 30 c 6s. I had the timer set to 16 mins but came down a little over 13 mins. That battery just tested to 3.7 on each cell. Battery is brand new and I'm really psyched with how it performed. 2nd flight was with a 3000mah 40c 6s, I landed @ 9 mins and voltage on all cells was around 3.8. I've got planes I fly fast, but this one will fly slowly and look pretty. I'm sure my flight times will change with whatever new prop I put on, but I like these durations.

I experimented with negative expo on aileron ..."just to see". No benefit.

With the bad prop experience I can't really judge the performance yet. To put this into perspective, I wanted to see unlimited vertical. With my prop today, it just wasn't there.

Ground handling...awesome. Our grass field is in good shape, but my other tail draggers (much smaller) don't do so well.

Battery position.... The 4000mah I put slightly off centered toward the rear and the plane was tail heavy. The 3000mah...I moved to the front of center and it was MUCH better handling. We'll all find our sweet spots for the way we fly.

Stall tendencies...with the plane obviously tail heavy on the first bat, I didn't even try. 2nd battery with the plane flying better I did try the stall. At least on my plane the way I had it balanced, it was a non event. No wing drop, nose went down and I neutralized the controls and pulled out.

Inverted...needed a very tiny bit (very tiny bit) of up pressure to hold.

Landings...EASY PEASY, the plane is practically a glider. You have to ask the plane nicely to land. "Please plane, will you land now".

Overall...very satisfied and would buy again.
Nov 03, 2013, 01:16 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sideslip
If anyone else is interested, I hate those skimpy (sorry HH) velcro straps they put in these planes. I know that they have better stuff available. Just look what a nice job they did on the rest of the hardware in this plane. Just love those Allen head screws.

So I took out my battery tray and removed the skimpy straps and the white Velcro on the tray itself. I installed new Velcro that will give the battery much better grip, and then while re-installing the tray, I put in a Scorpion battery strap. We use these routinely in large helicopters that get a lot more violent in the air than this cub ever will.

In the photo below you'll see a small piece of Velcro on the sides of the battery box. These are used to hold the straps out of the way while I install the battery. The are small and don't interfere with the hatch cover at all. Just thought someone else might be interested.
Hi, nice solution, I did the same and it works great.
Well done
Nov 03, 2013, 01:19 PM
so and so and so on
jeff4steel's Avatar
This is the only thread I've gone through since the 1st post and most probably will continue track. My personal wish is HH could design a Balsa Caron Cub having same aerobatic performance at reasonable cost. I know 25E and another 1/4 scaled CUB with gas engine do exist but will 60E plus 6S 5000MAH make up a similar Balsa CUB around 550usd BNF Basic?
Nov 03, 2013, 02:01 PM
Registered User
I have a big 1/4 scale Cub, and the lower pitch props are better than higher pitch. The Cub is a draggy slow-flying airplane, so the lower pitch "bites" better, and the higher pitch will just stall out. However, switching t a more efficient prop like a XOAR will give you more performance, but with long flight times and vertical capability, why bother?
Nov 03, 2013, 02:28 PM
Right Rudder
PittSpecial's Avatar
Wow! Are you guys kidding me?

The first Super Large E-Flite project and we now have several here reporting Bad ESC's, Propeller and Elevator Servos?

I was really excited until the last few pages!

Oh dear.....


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