Slow Stick from Hobbyking? - Page 11 - RC Groups
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Jan 28, 2017, 11:26 PM
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earlytide's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hard line
I'm about to build mine. I expect to build it to spec except strength upgrades for the stick joiner and the wing joiner. Is there a purpose to the notch in the center of the ply wing joiner? I'm thinking of adding a thin carbon doubler to the joiner and if not needed, go right over that notch.
I saw a video on utube where they took a nylon bolt that just fit in the carbon fiber tube and cut the head off, bent to the dihedral of the plywood joiner, and hot glued it together during assembly. I had already assembled mine but it sounds like a good idea.

Earl
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Jan 28, 2017, 11:45 PM
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Thanks, but actually I finished mine today. The stick connection was beefed with an internal carbon tube and I left the plastic sleeve on as well. But everything glued instead of bolted. (5g)

I took 8" of thin wall stainless steel tubing, bent to the dihedral angle and ran it up both spar tubes. (8g)

Lastly took a length of .020 stainless steel spring wire and glued it around the perimeter of the ply wing joiner so it can't break in the center. (1g)

That's a total weight gain of 1/2 oz -- I think well spent.
Jan 29, 2017, 01:22 PM
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earlytide's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hard line
Thanks, but actually I finished mine today. The stick connection was beefed with an internal carbon tube and I left the plastic sleeve on as well. But everything glued instead of bolted. (5g)

I took 8" of thin wall stainless steel tubing, bent to the dihedral angle and ran it up both spar tubes. (8g)

Lastly took a length of .020 stainless steel spring wire and glued it around the perimeter of the ply wing joiner so it can't break in the center. (1g)

That's a total weight gain of 1/2 oz -- I think well spent.
I agree, and the tubing is probably lighter and stronger than the nylon bolt.

Earl
Jan 29, 2017, 04:22 PM
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I think nylon isn't stiff enough to protect the ply joiner. It is plastic after all and will just let the joiner take all the load until it breaks. Then the nylon may or may not keep the wing from folding.

Maiden done. I thought it might be nose heavy at 90mm, but it trimmed out with a little down-elevator. I guess that could mean it's a little tail heavy or could also mean it needs more down thrust. It looks like it has some, but I didn't measure how much. I'll have to do a dive test. Only other issue was the rudder linkage squeeks like a barn door. I think the pushrod wire is too tightly fit in the horn. I'll get after it. But a nice flyer -- I'm happy with the result.
Jan 29, 2017, 08:43 PM
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earlytide's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hard line
I think nylon isn't stiff enough to protect the ply joiner. It is plastic after all and will just let the joiner take all the load until it breaks. Then the nylon may or may not keep the wing from folding.

Maiden done. I thought it might be nose heavy at 90mm, but it trimmed out with a little down-elevator. I guess that could mean it's a little tail heavy or could also mean it needs more down thrust. It looks like it has some, but I didn't measure how much. I'll have to do a dive test. Only other issue was the rudder linkage squeeks like a barn door. I think the pushrod wire is too tightly fit in the horn. I'll get after it. But a nice flyer -- I'm happy with the result.
Good to hear it. Keep us updated on your final numbers and how you got there.

Earl
Jan 30, 2017, 02:36 AM
Eternal beginner
Rollmops67's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hard line
I'm about to build mine. I expect to build it to spec except strength upgrades for the stick joiner and the wing joiner. Is there a purpose to the notch in the center of the ply wing joiner? I'm thinking of adding a thin carbon doubler to the joiner and if not needed, go right over that notch.
Hello Hard Line.

Look at this post, you will see how I reinforced my wings with duct tape (with fiberglass threads in it).
These days my Slow Stick has 90 flights, and the wing joint is still holding well, albeit I fly sometimes in a "harsh" manner.

Roland
Jan 31, 2017, 01:48 PM
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Second day of flights. Ran a same-size drill bit through the horn hole, and the squeeking went away. I think the hole was the right size but maybe not quite round. Anemometer said 7mph, but it wasn't a problem. I think with a little more time I'll be comfortable in 10mph. My 1300 3S read 3.8VPC after 7 minutes of flying. Will probably go 8 or 9. Haven't done anything yet to reduce the climb with throttle. Still assuming it's thrust angle. I did confirm the stock mount is set for down thrust, but maybe not enough I guess.
Jan 31, 2017, 03:34 PM
Registered User
R. Nordeck's Avatar
So today I finally maidened my HK SS. Success w/ two 6 min flights.
Notes: 29 F. w/ wind - 6mph N.; flew off snow packed dirt Rd @ home; 90 mm CG was way too nose heavy & all clicks up trim not enough; 2nd flight w/ 100 mm CG & A-OK with only a few clicks up to trim & few clicks right ail; used 3S -1300mah & calculates to 8 min flight time; flys w/ wide speed range f/ very slow walking speed at barely any throttle to way fast & vertical climb out at WFO!

I really like it & cautiously maybe, almost ready to try it w/ the FPV as soon as find spotter & another 30 Deg. Day !!
Jan 31, 2017, 04:19 PM
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How odd that we're both at 90mm and yours requires a lot of uptrim and mine required a lot of downtrim.
Jan 31, 2017, 06:27 PM
Registered User
R. Nordeck's Avatar
That is some strange; I remeasured my final / current CG & it's dead on 100mm, where it flew really well. Maybe because our air here in WY is too thin to support lift
Jan 31, 2017, 07:23 PM
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Flight trim is a function of both CG and thrust angle. While 90mm works for me now, if I lower the thrust angle I may want to push the CG further back. A dive test will tell me, but what with inexperience with the plane and marginal weather, I haven't done it yet. It's a fun flier now, so I'm in no hurry to "fix" it.

EDIT -- It straight-lines a dive test both half throttle and unpowered. I guess I'll leave it alone for now.
Last edited by hard line; Feb 01, 2017 at 08:04 PM.
Jul 31, 2017, 10:07 AM
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A little help?


Mystery crash, and it's pretty busted up. I'd replace it but both planes and parts seem out of stock, so I think I'll rebuild.

Considered using millennium plastics, but decided to go DIY. Question for one of you on the wing location. I have fore/aft position, but I need to know if the front/rear wing mounts were different heights, giving the wing a built-in angle of attack?
Aug 02, 2017, 08:17 PM
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earlytide's Avatar
Yes.
Aug 03, 2017, 04:46 AM
Registered User
john4565's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by hard line
Mystery crash, and it's pretty busted up. I'd replace it but both planes and parts seem out of stock, so I think I'll rebuild.

Considered using millennium plastics, but decided to go DIY. Question for one of you on the wing location. I have fore/aft position, but I need to know if the front/rear wing mounts were different heights, giving the wing a built-in angle of attack?
I have just measured the wing mounts on my Slow Stick. The wing mounts put the underside of the Leading Edge of the wing (at the wing root) 20mm above the fuselage and the underside of the Trailing Edge 8mm above the fuselage.

I hope that helps.
Aug 03, 2017, 10:40 AM
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So 12mm difference. I used 5/8". Close enough I imagine, but I'll reduce it if I don't like how it flys. Thanks for the info.

EDIT -- Flew it, not sure I like it. It acts like it's tail heavy (negative elevator trim), even though the CG is spot on original spec. Maybe moving the CG fwd of spec will fix it. Otherwise, I'll probably have to re-angle the wing. But at least it's flying again. Not bad for a plane crashed so bad I wrote it off. But since I couldn't replace it....
Last edited by hard line; Aug 03, 2017 at 01:29 PM.


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