Have you calibrated the ESCs?

Edit - talking different stuff

The TX doesn't and still have to be calibrated to match the endpoints with the ESC. I had the same issue on my TBS Discovery. It started doing the wobbles on hover and stopped after I did an ESC calibration.
Also, this is with the team-blacksheep simonK ESCs which TBS says doesn't need calibration.

Originally Posted by jackosmeister

No worries, there is a bit of a breeze there (looking at the trees)

It doesnt look too bad, im sticking with releveling it then start tuning the PIDs

You are right about the wind... however, I flew in wind before, and I can tell the difference between the wind pushing it, or the copter drifting on its own. I think it has something to do with the "level"...

Thanks,

G

Originally Posted by balbs

Have you calibrated the ESCs?

Yes.

Thanks,

G

P.s. I did the all in one method

Originally Posted by neavissa

Yes.

Thanks,

G

P.s. I did the all in one method

It may just be video but it REALLY looks like you need to calibrate your ESCS again. I always use the auto calibration method on APM/Hawks and it works really well.

It doesn't matter what firmware is on the ESC [except maybe DJI] as it needs to be calibrated to the flight controller and to your TX/RX setup.

The way they are spinning in your video I would not even attempt to put it in the air until you get that part done and done properly.

Originally Posted by TheQuestor

It may just be video but it REALLY looks like you need to calibrate your ESCS again. I always use the auto calibration method on APM/Hawks and it works really well.

It doesn't matter what firmware is on the ESC [except maybe DJI] as it needs to be calibrated to the flight controller and to your TX/RX setup.

The way they are spinning in your video I would not even attempt to put it in the air until you get that part done and done properly.

Ok. Thanks for the input. By auto calibration, you mean the one where are the esc's are plugged into the Pixhawk, right? I call it the all in one method...

Thanks,

G

Originally Posted by neavissa

Ok. Thanks for the input. By auto calibration, you mean the one where are the esc's are plugged into the Pixhawk, right? I call it the all in one method...

Thanks,

G

Yah where you turn on your TX [making sure failsafe is disabled on your RX] and throttle full. Then plug in your hawk and wait a couple secs, then unplug it and then plug it back in until it yells at you then press the safety switch then the escs beep then throttle to 0 and they should beep more. Then when you throttle up and down all the motors should spin at the same speeds and endpoints.

Originally Posted by TheQuestor

Yah where you turn on your TX [making sure failsafe is disabled on your RX] and throttle full. Then plug in your hawk and wait a couple secs, then unplug it and then plug it back in until it yells at you then press the safety switch then the escs beep then throttle to 0 and they should beep more. Then when you throttle up and down all the motors should spin at the same speeds and endpoints.

That's the one. I'm going to try that again, and see what happens. I decided to try one thing at the time, to better be able to pinpoint the problem.

Thanks,

G

Originally Posted by TwoHeadsBrewing

You can use a combination of three switches for multiple flight modes on. I don't have my DX6i any longer, but it can be done. Or if Can you point me wheryou want to use two of the switches, you can get 4 modes.

Can you point me where I can find this information?

Originally Posted by neavissa

That's the one. I'm going to try that again, and see what happens. I decided to try one thing at the time, to better be able to pinpoint the problem.

Thanks,

G

To answer an earlier question: I always level the machine these days rather than the FC. I put my bubble level on the top deck plate and set it level to calibrate. (This presumes the top plate is level with the plane of the propellers) That way if the FC is slightly canted it won't matter. Also make sure there is NO vibration when you hit the cal button. No walking near by or heavy trucks on the road etc. (My workshop is on a truck route and the ground shakes when they go by lol)

Since I've been doing this my machines are drift free and take off nice and level.

Cheers
Rick
UAV Media Pros

Originally Posted by Violet Wolf

To answer an earlier question: I always level the machine these days rather than the FC. I put my bubble level on the top deck plate and set it level to calibrate. (This presumes the top plate is level with the plane of the propellers) That way if the FC is slightly canted it won't matter. Also make sure there is NO vibration when you hit the cal button. No walking near by or heavy trucks on the road etc. (My workshop is on a truck route and the ground shakes when they go by lol)

Since I've been doing this my machines are drift free and take off nice and level.

Cheers
Rick
UAV Media Pros

Rick,

That makes totally sense. I assume you mean "NO vibrations", ONLY for the first step, where is says to level the controller, right?! What to do you do in the next steps, when it says,"Put controller on the left side, now on the right side, now nose down" and so on...?! Do you hold it in that position or do you prep it up so it sits there by itself? (I hope you know what I mean?).

thanks,

G

Originally Posted by neavissa

Rick,

That makes totally sense. I assume you mean "NO vibrations", ONLY for the first step, where is says to level the controller, right?! What to do you do in the next steps, when it says,"Put controller on the left side, now on the right side, now nose down" and so on...?! Do you hold it in that position or do you prep it up so it sits there by itself? (I hope you know what I mean?).

thanks,

G

You lean it over so it rests on the two left arms and with the two other arms(right side) pointing to the roof/sky. Do the same for front, right and back to. If antenna is in the way when she ask you to put it head down, try to hold it as straight as possible and hit enter.

EDIT: A bubble level inside the lines/sircle is more than enough. You'll never get it to 100% anyway.

Jorn

Originally Posted by neavissa

Rick,

That makes totally sense. I assume you mean "NO vibrations", ONLY for the first step, where is says to level the controller, right?! What to do you do in the next steps, when it says,"Put controller on the left side, now on the right side, now nose down" and so on...?! Do you hold it in that position or do you prep it up so it sits there by itself? (I hope you know what I mean?).

thanks,

G

It is not the controller that needs to be leveled, It is the props. Take a 2' level and place in a "X" on top of the motors and level them. Then calibrate. If you level the controller and it is slightly off level on the frame then it will drift. But it thinks everything is fine because the controller is level.

Originally Posted by Jerry Campbell

It is not the controller that needs to be leveled, It is the props. Take a 2' level and place in a "X" on top of the motors and level them. Then calibrate. If you level the controller and it is slightly off level on the frame then it will drift. But it thinks everything is fine because the controller is level.

Yeah, I realized that now as well... Thanks anyway for the input.

G