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Feb 11, 2004, 05:54 PM
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Need New Wingo Motor/Gearbox


I have a New Wingo to try when the rain stops. I will use the stock power setup initially, but I want to upgrade later to use floats. (Weight now is 21 oz. with speed 400, Berg 4, Jeti 110 and 9 1000 NiMH.)

I want to stay with a brushed motor. Most flyers go to the 2.3:1 geared system, but I would like to try a high voltage, low current option. I'm thinking of a GWS EPS-400 geared 3.9:1 with 3s LiPo and 10X6 prop.

Comments on this combo or suggestions of others would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Jim
Last edited by itwenty; Feb 12, 2004 at 10:19 AM.
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Feb 13, 2004, 01:28 PM
I fly the wingo with LEDs on this setup:

GWS EPS-400C-B 2.38:1 motor gear drive combo
APC LP0806E - 8x6 prop
3s2100 TP LIPO's.

You can use the 3 cell LIPOs with the 8x6 prop. It flys superb. I have not tried with floats but there is so much power I dont see floats as a problem. It flys on 1/4 throttle or even a bit less. I have gotten over an hour but typically I fly 40 minute flights before I want to rest. The floats would probably shave off some of that time. Watch out for the prop size, you may find that it hits the "tail boom" rod if it is too long.
Feb 13, 2004, 03:12 PM
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Beeb-
Thanks for the information. I didn't realize you could get those long flights with that low gear ratio; I thought the current would be too high. That's great, though; I'll use your setup. I also was concerned about the long prop hitting the boom. I assume you made some sort of built-up stick mount to accept the GWS motor.

Jim
Feb 13, 2004, 03:18 PM
Unless your Wingo is very different from mine, you will likely find a clearance problem using a ten inch prop.

I found that if you move the motor up enough to get proper clearance, you may create downthrust.

You may find that a miniAC with a gearbox and an 8 inch prop will give you better results.
Feb 13, 2004, 04:04 PM
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Herleman-

Beeb made the same comment warning about a very long prop. He also suggested an 8x6. As you stated, I had thought of building up a mount so that I could use a 10-inch prop. I hadn't considered the thrust problem.

The miniAC is a good suggestion, but I wanted to stay with a brushed motor for awhile so that I can use my Jeti 110 ESC. The mini will be good for the future. Thanks for the warnings and suggestions!

BTW, I've been watching lots of TV coverage from your area this week. I hope the weather holds up for the weekend.

Jim
Feb 13, 2004, 04:43 PM
One thing that I did on mine was to get a long can 400 motor. I found it to be noticeably more powerful, and it is inexpensive. I flew mine on 10 cells for a long time with no ill effects. I also flew it for a bit with a three bladed prop (till I stuck a screwdriver in it by accident -- I've never found a replacement).

Good luck.
Feb 13, 2004, 04:58 PM
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I've seen the long can 400 and wondered about it, also. I think that may be an easy option for me to try.

Thanks,
Jim
Feb 13, 2004, 07:25 PM
Quote:
Originally posted by itwenty
Beeb-
Thanks for the information. I didn't realize you could get those long flights with that low gear ratio; I thought the current would be too high. That's great, though; I'll use your setup. I also was concerned about the long prop hitting the boom. I assume you made some sort of built-up stick mount to accept the GWS motor.

Jim
I certainly do get those flight times. But my throttle control includes flying low and slow touch and goes, finding a few thermals as well as some inverted acrobating. The GWS motor mounts in the same location in the same way. I have flown it with the gear drive mount resting on the balsa to hold it firmly in position AS WELL AS with that part hanging over the wing. Either way it flys fine. With it resting on the balsa it gives a more direct thrust for faster straight flying, the otherway, it seems to fly at even a better creeping speed. You know that plane, it just wants to fly and glide as long as the thrust is somewhere behind it.

According to GWS, http://www.gws.com.tw/english/produc...0-c.htm#EP8060 , it can pull 10amps producing 12.91oz of thrust at 10.2 volts. But 3 cell LIPOs are over 11.1volts, so in reality the thrust and draw is higher.

I am considering trying the EPS350-C-DS with a 9x4.7 prop. http://www.gws.com.tw/english/produc...em/eps350c.htm . The thrust for 10.2 volts is rated at 16.38oz drawing only 8.5 amps, a big improvement over the 400. The only question I have not looked into yet is the prop too long. Also, I dont know if GWS rated their motors as pushers or pullers. Thus, it may make more sense to try an EPS300. (One of the motors is timing advanced, the other is neutrally timed.)

As far as spending the money on brushless for this, I personally do not think you need it. The price/performance to its flying characteristics makes me feel it would not be necessary/worth it. I can not be more pleased with the GWS solution, both in cost (ESC & motor/geardrive) and performance. Just does not need it.
Last edited by Beeb; Feb 13, 2004 at 07:46 PM.
Feb 13, 2004, 11:35 PM
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I appreciate your sharing your experiences with the Wingo, Beeb. You've provided a wealth of information. I haven't flown my Wingo yet. The weather has been so cold, wet, and windy, I didn't want to risk damaging the model. As soon as I can, I will fly it with the stock setup for awhile until I get used to it and then decide on an upgrade. I think I will go to the LHS and look at their GWS power systems. I'll keep your recommendations in mind.

Thanks,
Jim
Feb 14, 2004, 12:11 AM
Its a very easy flyer. If you are learning, you will do well with the wingo. Rapairs go easy. The steel axle undoubtably will bend from hard landings, you can bend it back in shape. If it breaks off, a good upgrade is to use a .118 diameter carbon rod. You will need to drill out the wheel axle hole to fit the rod and create new wheel spacers. The carbon rod flexes, it does not bend, and even gives a bit of shock absorbancy when you land. The rubber gromet that connects the axle to the wing is a snug fit for the carbon rod. Just push, it will go on, or use some lubricant to help it slide if needed. You will also need to widen the channel of the piece of wood that the axle attaches so that is seats in flush like before.

For price comparison, this is a good price and place to buy the motor upgrade (the B gearing). http://www.aeromicro.com/Catalog/gws...0c_1896427.htm and prop http://www.aeromicro.com/Catalog/apc...ler_963115.htm . It actually makes learning easier with this motor.

Good luck.
Last edited by Beeb; Feb 14, 2004 at 12:26 AM.
Feb 14, 2004, 10:05 AM
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All my flying so far has been with hi-start-launched gliders and gliders powered with a small glow engine on a pod. This is my first try at electrics. I thought the Wingo would be a good first model. I've added packing tape to the wing leading edge and to the fuselage.

I'll try your axle modification if I break this one, and thanks for the Aeromicro links. I guess I should upgrade the motor sooner than I had planned if it makes flying easier.

Jim


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