Just looking at the short chassis, think it's lcl6026 Gonna order one today

Originally Posted by Mk1magic

Just looking at the short chassis, think it's lcl6026 Gonna order one today

Isn't that the Rally chassis? The partnumber I mentioned should be for the buggy version.

Hmm?
http://www.racing-cars.com/sp/catego...are_Parts.html
This is the page I was looking at to order the parts....at the bottom? Doesn't specify wether it's the rally chassis or the buggy?

I checked it, and it seems the parts list I looked at has a typo. Both the side guards and the chassis plate are listed as L6025, but in fact t6025 is just the side guards, and 6026 is the chassis plate. So you've ordered the right part. But if you now have the plastic chassis plate, you will need the side guards still.

Great I didn't order as was a little unsure but now I'll get it on it's way with side pods

I bought one from Nitrorcx at the beginning of the year, and, after learning to drive it, I can say it will just about run with the pack in practice at my local track. All 1/10 stuff & my little buggy. I had the usual broken spindles & caster blocks, but that was a $5 fix, and i threw in the cvd's in front as well. It's my first r/c car, and I am loving it.

Good to see more owners chiming in. Did you already modify the shocks? This will improve handling.

All i have changed (other than spindles) is the wing, because i crashed in frigid conditions & it shattered. The only place i ever drive it is at barnstotmersrc.com track, & around my apartment. I cartwheeled it over the doubles when i shattered the wing. I just put a mini 8ight wing on it tonight. I have now had it on the track for 5 or 7 sessions, i forget. Getting better, crashing less, actually making complete laps now.

I will be picking up some shock oil at the track tomorrow night, the track owner's son owns dirtcheaprc

Went to the track tonight, left rear outside axle bearing came out in pieces after about 30 or so laps.

So, it finally succumbed to all the abuse it has taken.

As for the mini 8ight wing, I also have one on one of my LC buggies, which I bought second hand, had seen a lot of action judging by the many scrapes on the chassis plate bottom, and came with a non stock wing, that was already hanging by a thread. The Losi wing can take more abuse, but it also reduces downforce. But that's no problem for me, I prefer oversteer to understeer, as I often drive on tight spots, where the oversteer gives you more chances to avoid a collision.

Just put new bearings in all 4 corners, and put 10wt (100cst) oil in all the shocks, will run it again in the morning & see how i like it. I hope they fixed the holes in the back left hander, one of them was as big as my buggy!

Solopro, on a hard packed clay 1/10 track, should i use toe-in, toe-out, or neutral?

Depends on the amount of bumps and turns. The EMB has some bumpsteer, meaning as the front suspension arms move up, the wheels will alter their angle seen from above, and get a little toe-out. So I usually opt for a mild toe-in with the car sitting high on the suspension, which leads to neutral or slight toe-out with compressed springs.

But basically you should determine if you are having trouble on the straight parts, in that case stick to a little toe-in. If you have a twsting track, and often overshoot in the turns, so the steering acts too late, a little toe-out will help the initial turn in action. But you are aware that the shocks also play a large role in cornering behavior?

I assume you haven't modded the shocks yet, as I read you are using 100 cst oil, which is very thin. I think the shocks have better dampening traits when the holes in the pistons have been drilled out to 1 mm, and with thicker oil, 150 to 250 cst.

Ran the buggy this morning, neutral toe, the shocks are almost indescribably better with the thin oil, and steering is almost controllable. I was able to complete several laps without crashing, and i'm not in everyones way nearly as much. I have had this just over 1 month now, and for a first r/c car, I am very pleased with the performance, and pleased with my own learning curve. If I could fit a "house" transponder under the body, I would enter the Sportsman/Novice class and race it.

Glad to hear you are making progress. Driving on a track is no easy thing, even though some make it look simple. Don't have the shocks bottoming out on jumps now, with the thin oil? If so, it's really recommended to drill out the holes in the pistons to at least 1 mm, if you still have the shocks with 3 holes in the pistons. For most this gives better options to tune the shocks with the proper smoothness, while still being able to cushion a hard landing after a jump.