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Aug 28, 2013, 12:21 AM
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LC Racing EMB 1/14 4WD (aka Tacon Soar) Buggy Thread, also SCT, Rally, DT and MT info

Table of contents:

- First posting: covers an overview of the car, various versions, a review and a "reprise-review", giving an update on how the car is holding up after running it for a longer period of time

- Second posting: covers things to check before first run, modifications, optional parts, like upgrade batteries, different motor setups, alternate tires, etc.


I recently (summer 2013) came into contact with the LC Racing 1/14 scale buggy, after some disappointment with the slightly smaller 1/18 scale HSP Eidolon series. Turns out the LC Racing is on par with the well known Losi Mini Eight, and on some areas might even surpass it. Because it didn't seem unlikely this car would get more popular, I thought it deserved it's own thread, and here it is.

Note!!! All info that is gathered as this thread progresses, should be present in the 1st two postings in this thread. If you feel something is missing, just ask. If info that was posted by someone, was overlooked, please make this known, and it will be added asap. Your help is needed to make this thread a reliable source for info, and your efforts are truly appreciated.

First a few pictures and specs, as listed on the LC Racing website:


1. LC design treaded tires
2. LC design slipper pad with adjustable gear cover
3. Aluminum-threaded, oil-filled, coil-over, 6061-T6 ajustable shocks
4. 2.5mm 6061-T6 aluminum shock towers
5. Front and rear metal gear differentials
6. Brushless Batan ESC
7. 2838 brushless motor
8. 4WD shaft drivetrain
9. Adjustable mini servo with saver
10. Steel hinge-pins with rounded front bumper
11. Batan receiver with 2.4GHz technology
12. 7.2V 1100mAh NiMH battery with 3.5mm gilded round connectors
13. 2.5mm anodized aluminum rear and front kick-up chassis with dirt guards
14. 12mm wheel hexes


Scale: 1/14 EP Buggy
Length: 347mm
Width: 205mm
Height: 110mm
Wheelbase: 185mm
Weight: 0.90kg(battery included)
Tire Type: LC Buggy
Chassis: 2.0mm anodized aluminum
Motor or Engine: 4500Kv 2838 brushless motor
Gear ratio:8.23
Speed Control: Brushless
Radio: 2.4GHz Technology
Batteries: 7.2V NiMH with 3.5mm gilded round connector, Charger included
Shock Type: Aluminum-threaded, oil-filled, coil-over
Ball Bearings:Complete

Package Contents:
100% Brand New
1x 1:14 RC Car
1x 2CH 2.4Hz Transmitter
1x Battery Charger (100-240V)
1x 7.2v 1100mAh Ni-MH battery
1x Instruction Manual


All service documentation, including some setups and a black setup sheet, used to be found here online:
Here's a link to the updated parts list, also includes some options, like CF shock towers and Anti Roll Bars:

However, it seems the website is no longer available, and the only way to contact LC Racing is through their Facebook page:

And a link to an exploded view of the new style diffs:

Spare Parts:

Finding parts for a lesser know brand can be a challenge. Though "Google is your friend" tends to apply in this case as well, here are a few links that can be used as starting points, listed in no particular order:

For aftermarket battery options, check the second posting, under the header "Upgrades/Modifications/Tricks & Tips"

Different versions:

As this car is getting picked up by different brands, different RTR packages have appeared, with different motors, and other changes. Besides the "full option" car, with brushless motor, and many metal parts, some companies that sell this buggy and it's "siblings" in rebranded form, also offer a budget version, with some parts replaced by cheaper ones.

So far 2 versions have been confirmed, first the brushless "budget" version:

- Plastic single piece chassis bottom plate, instead of aluminium with plastic side skirts
- Plastic shock bodies, instead of aluminium
- Plastic shock towers, instead of aluminium
- No CVD's up front, but regular dogbones

Some of these cost-down changes may not be all that bad. The metal shock towers can bend in a hard crash, the plastic ones will flex and don't require bending back into shape. But the metal bottom plate will be more resilient to scratches, and can also act as an extra heat sink for the motor, as the motor mount is also metal, and has direct contact with the chassis bottom plate. So having that replaced by plastic may not be as favorable. And dogbones at front, instead of CVD's, tend to be less efficient, as there is increased resistance when the wheels are steering.

Another confirmed version is the brushed version of the Tacon Soar, which has the following lower spec parts installed:

- Slipper clutch has been replaced by a spur gear that is fixed on the axle.
- No metal chassis plate and shock towers
- Plastic shocks
- Steering Bell Cranks don't have ball bearings, but bushings instead
- No Ball bearings on the wheel carriers, only on the driveline
- Motor Mount has less room for adjusting gear mesh, so less different pinion sizes are possible
- Tie rods are lacking the small hole in the middle, so it's harder to adjust camber and front toe, requires removing the link
- Brushed electronics including a 380 size motor instead of the 4500kv brushless 4 pole motor and brushed ESC
- Plastic Drive Cups on the diff input cups

Thought it's perfecty possible to replace cheaper parts with the upgrade parts later on, some versions will end up costing a lot more to upgrade to the full feature version, than it would have cost to buy the most expensive version right away. This especially applies to the brushed version, which are lacking a lot of essential better quality parts.

Apart from the various RTR versions, there is also a kit version of the buggy. Interestingly enough, the kit comes with a servo. Normally a bundled servo is barely up to the job, and is one of the first things to replace, but in this case the stock servo is pretty capable. So far, 3 versions have been confirmed:

- the "old" version with a pre painted body
- the newer one with clear body and the new style diffs (check below, under the header "Update/Manufacturing Changes" for more info)
- the newest with clear body, new style diffs and swaybars
- the newest one with painted body, new style diffs and swaybars

If more is known about other specific versions/rebrands, info will be added here.

First Impressions:

First thing that strikes the eye is the darkish alu parts. Thick shock stays, as well as the bottom plate, the shock bodies and the center steering link are made from it. It feels and is stronger than the alu used on some 1/10 scale competition buggies. The shaft driven 4WD system uses a red anodized alu shaft, which runs straight, with no visible wobble or slop. What also struck me is the lack of play on the suspension arms, while yet being able to move freely. This is a big improvement over more toy like engineered vehicles, like the before mentioned HSP 1/18 series.

Overall the car looks a lot like a Losi Mini Eight, but is surely no carbon copy. In fact the only parts that have been confirmed to be compatible, to my best knowledge, are the shocks, and the body, although for the latter you will have to modify the top deck, as the body mount front is in the wrong place.

In the US this buggy is marketed as the Tacon Soar, with only changes being a different body print:

LC Racing also has a Short Course Truck version (Tacon calls it the "Thriller"), and a Rally (called the "Ranger" by Tacon) version:

More recently, a Desert Truck version (called the "Cavalry" by Tacon) was added, resembling the EXO, except a bit smaller...

... as well as a Monster Truck aka the Tacon Valor:

Personally, I think the Desert Truck looks very appealing.

Tacon also has these versions in their product range, the Desert Truck or DT is called the "Cavalry" and the Monster Truck or MT has been renamed to "Valor". The rally version is called the "Ranger" when you get the Tacon version. Same car as the LC version, but different name.

Generally the buggy is getting rave reviews, the other versions have received some more criticism. The plastic rollcage on the DT and extra bumpers tend to break, and on the MT the body has a hard time if you have a crash, which can result in tears. With the buggy, the shock towers, wing and wheels take most of the blow, as there are no other parts protruding from the car. Some have reported the wing breaking in a crash, though mine has been through some hard times, like unintentional wheelies, cartwheel crashes, or just regular "rumble and tumble crashes, when misjudging a jump, and I'm still on the first wing.

Btw, the Desert Truck version has a different wheel base than the Rally and the Short Course Truck, but use the same chassis and drive shaft. The trick is that the Desert Truck has the rear suspension arms mounted reversed.

This nice vid, from a fellow Dutchman, shows what the Buggy version is capable of:

LC-Racing EMB 1H (1 min 46 sec)

Update 3 april 2018:

By the time this thread was started, I didn't have a Youtube account yet. I do now, so I can finally add some footage of my stock LC buggy, running with 2S LiPo. Nothing fancy, but it shows what it can do out of the box, in the hands of an amateur driver, instead of being a race tuned car run by a pro driver, like on the video above.

Some casual running with the LC Racing EMB 1/14 scale buggy (1 min 4 sec)

Update 28 sept 2014:

LC announced a Truggy version of the EMB:

It will be using the same tires as 1/10 buggy rear, which will give plenty of options. Also, the truggy will have better ground clearance then the buggy for instance. What name Tacon has come up with for this one, if they decide to carry this version as well, is not known at this time.

But back to the buggy, what do you get if you buy one of these?


The car comes in a stylish black box, with some line drawings of the car from various angles. I didn't take a picture yet, but this one gives a good impression:

Inside there is a smaller box that holds the transmitter, the battery, and the charger. The car occupies the biggest half of the box, and is held in place by a smartly placed cardboard cross-brace, that snuggly fits over the body.

The transmitter is smaller than a regular pistol grip, but it has a good feel, and needs only 4 AA batteries, or rechargable AA type, such as the Sanyo Eneloop, or Hobby King "LSD" batteries. This makes the transmitter conveniently light weight. The antenna is internal, so it can't break off, and besides that is has the basic features like reverse for throttle and steering, trims for both functions, dual rate for the steering, and a red and green led to indicate state of the transmitter.

The charger is a simple adapter type one, which I put aside, as I prefer to use my Imax B6 for all battery types. Maybe I will look at it later, but most people will probably ditch it in favor of a more versatile charger.

Stock the car comes with a 6 cell 1100 mAh NiMh battery, connected it to the charger, on a mild 0.5A current. While the battery was getting ready, I took some time to setup the car. As with most RTR, things like toe-in and camber could do with some adjustment. I went for a basic setup where the wheels are more or less on neutral angle, with a little toe in on the front, to help with the straights. The wiring was neat and tidy, just one wire needed to be pushed down a little, as it was touching the body shell, making it have a slight angle from left to right. After that, I put in the now charged battery, and went to a nearby parking lot.

During the first run, the car needed very little trimming on the steering, it was already running pretty straight. Top speed and acceleration are nice, especially considering it's using NiMh. One thing that needed some work though, was the suspension. As I was driving on a parking lot with pavement made from bricks, the car was often bouncing up and down ever so slightly, audible in the motor revving up and down a little. That issue is being addressed in the next posting, which covers modifications, just check the header "shocks". Also, good to know, recently produced cars will receive better tuned shocks from the factory, which should greatly improve handling out of the box. Apart from that, on most RTR cars the shocks need some fine-tuning anyway, depending on where you run the car most.

Apart from that, the car performed well, range of the transmitter, even with the internal antenna, was very good. After a while I stopped driving, and checked the temps of the main components. Although the body seals off most of the chassis, so there is little air flow, the motor stayed below 50 degrees centigrade, the ESC around 40, and the battery between 40 and 50. Sounds to me like "happy components" and the setup seems to be well chosen.

With a LiPo, the car really gets a boost, acceleration and top speed are much better, easily above 50 km/h. Typical runtimes for some bashing around are around 12 minutes with a 2S Zippy Compact 1300 mAh. After the run, the charger put back about 1111 mAh. I was running the car on hard surface, with many high speed passes, and jumping over ledges.


The LC Racing EMB1-H/Tacon Soar is a great performing buggy. Not perfect, but it has a lot going for it. Here's what I like and disliked about the car:


- Great performance, even on stock NiMh quite nice, but absolutely sweet on 2S lipo. Motor has plenty of "grunt" and is definitely not overloaded. Seems impossible to get the motor to get hotter than 50 degrees centigrade on 2S. Also capable of 3S running for very high speeds
- Durable materials, chassis plate protects the car well from rocks, quality plastics and screws, not a spot of rust visible, even after running on wet surfaces
- Quiet yet sturdy drivetrain. All metal gears, even the diffs, only plastic gear is the spur.
- A lot of tuning options. Multiple shock angles possible, set screw to allow ride height adjustment, even more options than on some 1/10 scale vehicles
- Precision engineering, very little slop/excess play,
- Soft, grippy tires, that are also quite durable. Uncommon for an RTR, the tires offer good traction on a variety of surfaces
- Excellent overall handling, zippy, agile, good jumper, great fun for just driving around, but also at home on the track, doing fast laps
- Overall durability, so far the only things that have displayed visible signs of wear are the tires, drive train still feels very smooth after running over a longer period of time, in various conditions.


- Shocks can be too stiff straight from the box (has been corrected in later production runs, but also can be fixed, see posting just below this)
- Stock spindles can be weak (much improved version available as spare part, might also already come fitted to your car upon purchase, as this improved part has been phased into production cars later on)
- Can be quite expensive in some parts of the world. Compare: Tacon Soar (NitroRCX) 165 USD, LC EMB (the Netherlands and Belgium) 305 USD. And that is for the same car, both alu shocks and chassis, brushless motor, etc.

Update/Manufacturing Changes:

New style diffs

During 2014, the planeterary gear style diffs have been replaced by a more conventional bevel gear type diff. This diff type is easier to (re)build, as it;s less complex, and also putting in one gear differently in the old type diffs can result in a locked diff, which may be helpful for drifting, but generally isn't needed. If this change of diff type alters the car's handling and durability is not sure yet.

Here are pics of both versions, old style first, new style second:

For an exploded view, showing how to put these new diffs together, check the "service documentation" header, more to the top of this message.

Update may 2015:

A new version of the spider gear diff has been spotted, it now uses 4 spider gears instead of one:

There is no info yet about if this diff performs better than the 2 gear version, but it looks like it should make the diff more durable.

Reprise! Or, how does the car hold up after some time?

First update, 17 october 2014:

I've been running the LC buggies for over a year now, so it's time to recap and see how these are holding up. A few things may be noteworthy:

- The tires are starting to look like slicks, and will need replacing pretty soon. This can be considered normal wear, and I run my cars a lot on hard surface as well. On grass or forest trails, the tire wear is very low. When running a lot of onroad as well, like I do, it's best to use tires more suited for that surface.

- The diffs and bearings are still the original ones, not even did a rebuild or so, and yet the car still runs very smooth, when pushed by hand. You only feel the motor's ratcheting due to the magnets pulling, with the pinion removed it rolls light as a feather.

- Shocks are working fine, and still feel smooth, with good dampening. The first runs there was a problem with a bladder not sealing the shock cap well, with leaking as result. After fixing that by replacing the bladders with Team C ones, the shocks are trouble free. On another car, still using the stock bladders, the shocks don't leak, so having a problem with one car was probably a fluke, as I haven't read about other people having the same issues.

- The wing has gained a few scrapes here and there, but is still in one piece, no cracks, despite having made lots of wheelies and also some cart wheels, mostly on concrete or brick roads, due to excess traction. This did cause some damage to the front shock tower, it has sustained a bend, where the shock is attached. It doesn't seem to affect handling at all, front wheels still touch the ground at the same time, and no weird cornering for instance.

The car with the 6000 kv motor fitted gave me some issues finding a lower teeth count, durable pinion, as the smallest one LC made until recently was a 17T, and I found the high kv motor works best with a 15T. After having a Robinson Racing pinion with 2mm axle hole modified to 3.2 mm axle hole, that problem seems to be solved. Before that I was using Novak pinions, and these would gradually and pretty fast, wear down to sawblade teeth, no matter how well the gear mesh was set. The car also made a dreadfull whine as the gear was getting worse run after run. With the stock motor and pinion, there were no issues at all.

What I've really learned to appreciate, besides the good performance, durability, that it keeps running smooth, and the excellent handling, is how it jumps. The car holds attitude very well in the air, and responds directly to "in flight corrections" like adding throttle to bring the nose a little up when needed. Jumping used to be my weak point as for driving, but this car made me much more comfortable practicing it, and enjoying "air time" much better. Even when a landing goes bad, the car just walks, or better, rolls, away from it unscathed.

Second update, 7 september 2015:

Nothing much new to report. Worn out a few tires, got a few new batteries. On the car with after-market 6000 kv motor a new pinion was needed, as the Novak alu pinions were wearing down way too fast, like within a month. The stock pinion is very good, haven't had to replace a single one of those yet, but the 6000 kv motor needs a smaller pinion than LC can offer, so I had to resort to different manufacturers for that. Eventually ended up using a Robinson Racing pinion, with axle hole reamed to 3.17 mm, as it came with 2 mm bore only.

Al other stuff, shocks, diffs, etc, are pretty much only needing maintenance if you run in dirt a lot. This car seriously promotes laziness, lol. Others reported similar findings, unless it gets thrown of a cliff, the LC car can handle daily use very well. For what I can see most stuff that breaks are roll cages on the Desert Truck version, as well as the pre-painted bodies, that are not from the same plastic as the clear ones that still need painting.

Third update, 5 october 2017:

Can't believe 2 years have passed. I must admit I haven't run the LC a lot lately, just a few times, when our kid wanted to drive her RC car as well, and also to experiment with FPV driving. Been mostly busy flying quadcopters, on sight, and FPV, and with the latter, fullfilling the dream to experience what it feels like being a pilot, as you can fly from first person perspective. But I will keep the LC, as it's still great fun to run, the electronics and other hardware never let me down. I know if I want to drive this afternoon, all I have to do is charge the battery, check the batteries in the transmitter, and be running in no time.

(As experience with this car grows, more content will be added)
Last edited by SoloProFan; Jan 13, 2019 at 03:03 AM.
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Aug 28, 2013, 12:23 AM
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(Reserved for extra info, hints, tips, and upgrades/modifications)

Things to check before first run

As with every RTR, there are some things to check before connecting the battery and going for the first run. Check all screws for proper tightening. My car was perfect in that aspect, but that's no guarantuee.

Note!! Pay extra care to the small set-screws that secure the drive cups that are on each side of the center drive shaft! As these are metal screws held into a metal part, there is a good chance these will work themselves loose due to vibrations during run, and this will result in the loss of front wheel drive. You can notice this as the rear end will start "fishtailing" when you accelerate hard. But with a little (just a little is needed) thread locking fluid/ this can be prevented.

Check alignment of the wheels, camber, caster. You will probably later adjust the settings to your liking, depending on the surface you drive, but for the first drive it's best to keep the camber angles indentical and close to 0. A little toe-in for straight line stability, and centering the wheels with the servo in neutral position.

There is a chance the shock bladders are not perfectly in the middle, so the shocks are not fully sealed, and may leak. Fixing this is just a matter of removing the shock cap, reposition the bladder, and screw the cap back on. This can be done as preventive measure, or only when a shock starts leaking.

Important!: If you intend to run the car on a surface with dirt, or small rocks, it's well advised to better seal off the pinion and spur from any debris. Especially when running other versions than the buggy, which has the body fitting very tightly around the chassis, so there is little chance for debris making their way into the gears. Look down in this posting for the header "Upgrades/Modifications/Tricks & Tips" for info how to do this.


Some wondered if this car has waterproof electronics. With the buggy, the body fits very tightly around the chassis bottom, and any water tends to only reach the steering assy and maybe the servo, when running on a wet surface. Other versions, like the SCT, have more openings where water can enter. Since it's not clearly mentioned in the specs, it's better to assume the electronics are not waterproof. Though the brushed version ESC is labeled as "waterproof". Current advice, if you expect to drive on wet surface a lot, is to use common methods for waterproofing, like plastidip. There are some excellent how-to vids on YT covering this.


As quality materials are used, the car has no parts that wear down very fast. Things that will wear are naturally tires, and the ball bearings if exposed to sand and much dirt regularly. Still, every once in a while some wrenching will be required. The screws used are 1.5 mm, 2.0mm and 2.5 mm hex. For the wheels and other nuts, a metric size cross wrench will do.

Replacing Pinion Gear/Setting Gear Mesh

Though the stock pinion is very durable, at one point it may need replacing, even if it's only to try a gear with different teeth count, as you want to do speedruns, or need extra torque. The gear's pitch is mod 0.5, so make sure you get the right gear.

Simply loosening the set screw on the pinion isn't enough to remove the pinion, the inner half of the gear cover prevents the pinion from sliding off. You need to remove the 2 screws that hold the sliding part of the motor mount in place, then slide out the motor. Remove the pinion, and slide the new one on, then slide the motor back into place and set gear mesh. Having a small flashlight handy so you can check the mesh, is convenient here. Personally I tend to leave the set screw loose when putting the motor back, so the pinion can still rotate freely on the motor axle. Then push the motor inward, as far as can be. This will set the mesh too tight naturally. Loosely tighten the motor mount screws, so that the motor doesn't slide on it's own, but can still be moved with a little force. Now slide the motor outward while rotating the wheels till the point where the gear no longer binds. Secure the motor mount screws, and verify gear mesh with flashlight, as well as by pushing the car forward manually. When satisfied, secure the pinion set screw, observing that it sits on the flat spot on the motor axle.

It may take a few attempt to get the feel, and get it right, but taking time to set the gear mesh always pays off. Your car will be more quiet, gears last longer, and it will run more efficient.

Upgrades/Modifications/Tricks & Tips

Although stock this buggy is quite capable, there are some options to improve it's performance or change it's looks. I'll list these in order of importance:


As already mentioned, right from the box the shocks were quite stiff on the first batches. You are very unlikely to get bottoming out when jumping, that's a good thing, but the suspension is so stiff that the tyres tend to soak up the bumps, resulting in a bouncy car on uneven terrain. Over time the shocks will soften up somewhat, and filling with a thinner WT oil also helps. But then best way to get the shock action you want right from the start, is to make the holes in the shock piston larger.

Stock these are a little less than 1 mm, best value seems to be to drill these to 1.3 mm. If you don't have this size of drill, you can also drill 2 holes to 1 mm, and one single hole to 1.5 mm. In combination with 20 WT oil, on my buggy the rear suspension was spot on with this combination. If you do a drop test, the rear will sink in with a nice "thud", absorbing the impact's energy, and smoothly returning to original position. Should you require more "pack" on a track with lots of jumps, you can use a little thicker oil again. This mod allows you to get the desired amount of damping with just altering the shock oil and springs, instead of being forced to use a very thin oil to get normal damping.


Aware of the issue with the shocks, LC Racing has altered the design a little, new pistons now come with 4 holes, to allow the shock oil to flow better from one side to another. The size of the holes hasn't been altered though, and some have experienced though, while an improvement, shocks with 3 hole pistons that have been reamed to a little above 1 mm still outperform the shocks with the 4 hole pistons.

Spindle Issue (Doesn't affect all cars)

Apparently there is a batch of EMB buggies that came with rather fragile spindles, prone to breaking even on mild impacts. The new and improved version is much stronger, and you are more likely to break some other part than the spindles, after the retrofit. The new spindles can be recognised by an extra reinforcement "bridge" on the front ones, as indicated on this picture, another LC user was kindly to provide:

So unless you are already sure that your cars is fitted with the new spindles from the factory, it's well advised to order these along with your car. These come cheap, and are a vast improvement.

Improving Drive Train Protection

The diffs seem pretty well sealed, and the spur gear and pinion have a protective cover. However, to allow space for gear mesh adjust, a small gap remains between the seperate pinion gear cap, and the spur cover:

If you take a piece of foam, you can insert that between the cover and the motormount, so you get this:

For neatness, you could use foam that has a self adhesive side, and stick that to the small plastic pinion cover, so it will always sit straight, even after accessing the pinion. Due to the small gap between body and chassis side plates there is already little chance on dirt entering under the body shell, at least with the buggy version, but with this extra piece of foam, you have even better "insurance" that nothing can reach the pinion and spur. For even better protection, also fill the small gap between the motor mount and the chassis plate, as can be seen on the pic with no motor installed.

Noise from transmission housings

If you hear noise from the drive components, and made sure it's not the gear mesh between pinion and spur being off, there is a good chance it's caused by one of the diffs. There are 4 screws holding the diff together, and these screws can also slightly twist the big gear that is on the side of the diff. With the upper transmission housing removed, and you spin the diff round, looking from above on the diff gear, it should not show any wobble from side to side. If it does wobble, the gear mesh between the big gear, and the bevel gear that goes to the main shaft, will vary during each revolution of the diff, and this can cause extra noise. If this is the case, loosen the 4 screws a little, and then tighten a little in turns, making sure the big gear still runs true with the screws tight.

LiPo, 2S or 3S

Not really a modification, but switching from the stock NiMh to 2S or even 3S lipo will boost performance a lot. Running on 2S speeds can already go above 50 km/h, which is pretty fast for a smaller car.

The dimensions of the battery tray (u-shaped brackets) are:

length: 100mm
width: 30mm

I've tried 3 different batteries, a NanoTech 1300 mAh, and a Zippy 1300 mAh. Both are great, though the Nano's tend to puff somewhat after some cycles, even with LVC set to a pretty safe level. The Zippy's don't seem to have this, and can be found here:

Another powerful after-market battery is the one that is used in the Hobby King 1/16 size Beatle, a 2S 1700 mAh with great punch:

All these batteries fit without cutting things. If you trim the u-shaped parts, bigger batteries can be fitted. One of these batteries is this 2250 mAh one:

It only requires the outward facing "ears" on the battery holders to be trimmed, to fit well. The following pics (thanks to user Droopy1975) shows a modified battery holder, and 2 bigger batteries installed:

As mentioned before, in the review part, I get around 12 minutes runtime on a 2S Zippy Compact 1300 mAh, and the charger put back about 1111 mAh after that run. I was running the car on hard surface, with many high speed passes, and jumping over ledges. Brushless stock motor and stock ESC, and the car was the LC buggy.

Alternate Motor/ESC Combos:

With the buggy version, the stock motor is very capable, with stock ESC. Though some have seen a little cogging at starting from standstill, or running at lower speeds. It seems the ESC is responsible for this, as the motor, being a 4-pole, has excellent torque. In one of my buggies, that came as roller when purchased, seperate electronics were fitted. A different ESC, Hobby King 45A:

This ESC has a little more headroom over the stock one. It does have a higher profile too though, and won't fit under the stock buggy body shell. With the fan removed, it does fit under the Losi Mini 8ight body shell. Besides being rated higher than the stock ESC, it has very smooth acceleration from standstil and you can make the car crawl forward with zero cogging, in my case with a lower torque motor (6000 kv) and 15T pinion. That motor is the HET Typhoon 240-15 motor, intended for use in ducted fan jets:

This motor is also a 4-pole, like the stock one, but slightly smaller. This, and the higher kv rating, makes it a must to gear down lower than the 17T that is the lowest pinion for the LC at the moment (though a 16T is apparently coming soon for the truggy version) as to avoid the motor from overheating, and "mushy" acceleration. With the 17T pinion the car just doesn't jump forward from standstill, throttle response feels delayed, due to the taller gearing. With a 15T pinion, this combo can pop wheelies on a high traction surface.

Some have used the Leopard 5200 kv motor, in combination with a 45A ESC:

Or this combination from HobbyKing:

XK2845-B-3700KV Brushless Inrunner ( )
Turnigy Trackstar 1/10 45A Sensorless Car Esc ( )

Should run cool with 16T pinion, and could probably handle bigger pinions as well.

Hopefully more great working Motor/ESC combos will be added here after a while

Different Wheels & Tyres

The stock tyres are pretty versatile, and still reasonable durable, but at some point, you may want to experiment with different tyres. A suggestion came from member "Tr1nket", Kyosho Fat101 tyres:

I tried these tires and at the moment are holding up well, with good traction, and low wear:

Look for "Rally Car 9074-8014" on eBay for sellers that have these tires. These tires only come as narrow ones, same width as the front tires of the LC, but this poses no problems with traction, unless maybe when you are running races. I used 4 original front rims, to glue these on, but there are other options for the rims.

More options will be added ASAP...

Different Body

The LC Buggy does look a lot like the Losi Mini 8ight. However, most parts are not interchangable, as far as I know only the shocks and wheels are a drop in replacement. But the body can also be used, with a small modification. Either you have to drill the front mounting hole a little more to the rear, or you can drill an extra hole in the top chassis brace of the LC buggy, so that the mounting post can be mounted 180 degrees turned, while still having the locator pin (that ensures the body mount always has the hole for the body pin facing sideways) fitted in the small hole in the chassis brace.

It might be needed to mount the ESC a little more to the front, as the Losi body has the cab more swept forward. Apart from looking different, the Losi body also offers more space to mount the electronics, as you can see on the picture under the header "Drive Train Protection" you can see I've mounted a 45A ESC instead of the stock one. This allows for a stronger motor.

Result may look like this:

UK based "Phat Bodies" also has a few compatible bodies, this is one of these:

Replacing stock servo with upgrade Batan D135F servo:

Though I haven't heard many reports from others breaking their stock Batan steering servo, I've had the servo suddenly stopping to work on two different LC buggies. First I replaced with a different brand servo that was included with the spares that came when I purchased one buggy second hand. But after that I had no more spare suitable steering servos left. So when another buggy had the same problem, I decided to take a chance with the D135F servo, which should be stronger and more durable, and be a drop-in replacement.

Here's a picture of the stock servo installation (motor wire disconnected to free the servo connector) :

The new servo does fit right into the servo holder brackets, however the wire is much longer, and the spline is different, so the steering arm won't fit, unless using much force perhaps. So one of the servo arms included with the D135F was cut to size, leaving one of the 4 arms that had the holes apparently on the same distance from center axle:

The servo arm lacks the thicker part where the screw goes into the plastic. While the plastic should be very resilient, I think adding a small (lock) nut on the remaining thread, might be a good idea.

Routing (battery) wires:

As there is little room under the stock body shell, routing the wires, especially those between battery and ESC, is critical to be able to put on the body without much hassle. Using a different body can help (check a little lower in this message for some aftermarket options) but even with the stock body, it should work out. Here are a few pics of one of my cars, using a battery with XT60 connector, and converter plug ( ) to make it able to connector to the ESC connector. So even more bulky than the stock HXT 3.5 connectors, but when routed like on the pics, the body goes on easily:

The key is to get the bulky part, the connectors, located under the part where the stock body has that extra "bump" on both sides. This may not always mean that the shortest route is the best route.

With the Losi body, the wires are routed differently, as this body has the cab more swept forward. Here's a pic to illustrate that:

Hope these examples will help.

Extra bearing on rear transmission housing:

Some have added an extra ball bearing on the axle between spur and rear diff. It can make the transmission more smooth, as this is a point where a lot of forces act upon the axle.

Bearing is the same as the other one, 4 x 8 x 3

Stock Transmitter Steering Wheel "Mod"

Though some might replace the stock transmitter and receiver by another one, it's quite capable. Good range, lightweight due to the 4 batteries, but it has a slight drawback. The foam "tire" on the steering wheel hasn't been glued, and can slide around a little. Not so much that steering will slip, but I regularly had the "tire" sliding towards the casing of the transmitter, and started to rub against it with the side wall of the tire. This makes steering noticably heavier. The solution is simple, just use a little glue to secure the tire on the wheel. I used CA, but other glue types may also work.
Last edited by SoloProFan; Nov 18, 2018 at 06:28 AM.
Sep 01, 2013, 01:44 PM
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Drove around today after working on the shocks yesterday. Handling on a brick road was much better, no more bouncing, wheels kept contact with the ground at all times. On bumps the car was quite stable for it's size, only when going through a small gutter, the rear was kicking up. But this might be normal behavior.
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Sep 02, 2013, 08:13 AM
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Good news for the shocks, it seems like cars produced from now on will have an extra hole in the shock piston, as well as softer springs. This should make the shocks more smooth on a hard or bumpy surface, with improved handling. And when more "pack" is needed in the shocks, when making big jumps, all it takes is thicker oil and perhaps stronger springs, to keep better ground clearance. But in most conditions, the shocks as they have been up till now, are too stiif for most applications.

Also ran the car on a forest trail with loose top surface today. Handling was close to a 1/10, it wasn't hard to keep the car on the track. And no sand/dust entered under the body shell. Even though there are no fans or vent holes in the motor that can suffer from dust, it's always nice to know the car stays reaonably clean on the inside.
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Sep 12, 2013, 09:07 AM
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No Tacon Soar/EMB-1 Buggy drivers here so far?

I've gotten a second one, used condition, but with the stock 4500 kv motor and 35A ESC. A very smooth combination, good acceleration and top speed on 2S. Clocked it with the GPS on 52 km/h on a 90% full lipo. Best thing, the combination runs pretty cool, 45 degrees centigrade on the motor, 42 on the ESC and 30 for the battery. Despite having no vent holes in the body so no direct airflow over ESC and motor.

This car also came with untreated shocks, so on pavement it was pretty jumpy. Tried a different approach, apart from drilling up the 3 holes in the piston to 1 mm, and using thinner oil, I slightly rounded of the sides of the piston, just enough so the side of the piston no longer binds with the inner side of the shock body. Then I put back the stock oil, and this resulted in much smoother suspension, but with more "pack" than with the thinner oil. So it should have less trouble with bumps, but still keep all wheels on the ground most of the time, even on a bumpy surface.
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Sep 16, 2013, 05:03 PM
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As the LC Racing EMB is similar to the Losi Mini 8ight, the same motors are used by various drivers. I've heard some using the 4500 kv LC motor in their Losi cars, and my second LC buggy came with a HET Typhoon 6000 kv motor, that is also being used as upgrade motor for the Mini 8ight. Must say it's pretty fast with that motor, even on mere 6 cell NiMh with the Typhoon motor I get almost 50 km/h on the GPS. Motor runs cool at 40 degrees or so centigrade. Only drawback is that it screams on WOT, whereas the 4500 kv LC Racing motor is way more quiet.

I'm tempted to try a bit of oil on the bearings of the Typhoon motor, yet on the other hand, perhaps that will wash out the stock bearing oil, and make the motor perform less. Also some people told me it's normal for the Typhoon motor to be more noisy, it's just that I feel more comfortable with quiet running things, noise often means a problem.
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Oct 15, 2013, 12:41 AM
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New body for another EMB buggy bought for spares:

Body and wing are from "Phat Bodies" from the UK. These also fit the Losi Mini 8ight. Eventually it will be fitted with the same body, but with the blue portion red, and the orange portions white, and keep the current body for running. The new body will also have been trimmed a little less, making it look bigger, hopefully making the car look "beefier" as well.

Also found a few new pictures of the upcoming Monster Truck and Desert Racer:

Last edited by SoloProFan; Oct 15, 2013 at 03:10 AM.
Nov 07, 2013, 04:59 AM
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Here are a few pics of my latest body, also from Phat. Spray painted by the same guy that did my Optima Mid body:

No one else but me running these agile 1/14 buggies? Or just all Losi Mini 8ight?
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Nov 07, 2013, 02:15 PM
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Any problems with differentials, spur and pinion gear, etc ?

Seem a great buggy to me !!!!
Nov 07, 2013, 03:47 PM
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Originally Posted by nofeardh
Any problems with differentials, spur and pinion gear, etc ?

Seem a great buggy to me !!!!

All rock solid. The diff gears are all metal, inside, crown gear and bevel gears driving the diff's crown gear. So far all I see is just the regular wear to the tyres, and even these don't wear very fast. I hear the same from others that run this car for longer than I have.

Another thing, I bought 2 used, and one new. I can't feel any difference regarding to play on joints, etc between the new one and the used ones. They all run fast and tight.
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Nov 07, 2013, 11:59 PM
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I have read good things about these on URC. The only weak point that I have read about is the castor blocks for the front end. Any problems with that on yours Solo?
Nov 08, 2013, 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jimmy the Heater
I have read good things about these on URC. The only weak point that I have read about is the castor blocks for the front end. Any problems with that on yours Solo?
No problems there yet. I did see a few drivers getting their shock towers ripped off, probably after replacing the stock alu shock mounts with carbon. The stock alu towers just bent upon a too hard impact, the carbon won't flex, and the energy is transferred somewhere else.

What I like most about this buggy is the solid drive train, and handling which is about on par with a 1/10 as for stability, but steering response is more agile.
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Nov 10, 2013, 10:06 PM
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I recently started eyeing the mini 8ight. Soar vs 8ight for bashing, which wins? I am able to get Losi parts at my local hobby store, so the Soar would have to be much better to overcome the quick parts support.
Nov 11, 2013, 01:32 AM
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I don't know what the price difference between the Losi and Soar is. But as mentioned before, the EMB/Soar is pretty durable. You can probably buy the Soar and a few spares and be safe for a long time and still spend less than you would on the Losi. Often when you have spares waiting, you won't break a thing, just to tease you that you spent money on spares.

If you get spares, get a few diff housings, shock towers and perhaps a few front castor blocks. Then you can start hitting walls.
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Nov 13, 2013, 09:45 AM
Autopilot no control
I'm definitely not bashing too hard. Right now I just run a vxl rustler in a grassy field across from my house, or occasional beach sand bash. No wall climbing.

I am looking for something smaller (but not micro), 4wd, preferably buggy for a hybrid of off and on road. The m8ight/Soar seem to hit the mark. I thought the prices were closer, but I see the Tacon is almost $100 less right now, which may be the tipping factor with everything I read saying how similar they are.

Are there any accessories or upgrades to grab right away for the Soar?

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