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Aug 03, 2013, 03:07 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Just a little glue along the bottom of the spars is all that is needed.
LIGHTLY sanding where the spars contact the wing skin wouldn't hurt.
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Aug 03, 2013, 03:11 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP


The tops of the spars are square and will require light sanding to give them a curve so the top sheeting will not have humps on the surface.

Using a sanding bar wide enough to bridge between the spars will help to ensure the angles blend between them.
Before you start sanding, mark the spars with a highlighter pen. this will help you keep track of your progress. The leading edge strip should taper to about 3 mm leaving a 6mm leading edge . The tip piece should taper to match it.
The trailing edge should have a slight taper as well to keep the trailing edge thin.
Once you are finished sanding; place a strip of foam across the spars and check for large gaps.
Small gaps are OK because the glue will bubble up and fill it.
Aug 03, 2013, 03:14 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
In order to get the slight curve to the bottom of the wing a relief cut is made from the first spar to the leading edge at the wing root. The wide end of the leading edge shim is placed under the leading edge of the wing panels during the top sheeting bonding step to raise it higher making the curve needed.
Aug 03, 2013, 03:18 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Cut the top sheeting using the wing panel, add about 1/4 to 1/2 inch to the leading edge and tip to allow for the extra we will need. I simply used my thumb as a spacer between the pencil and wing to make this mark.
Sand the trailing edge of the top sheeting ( bottom side) bit to keep the finished trailing edge thin.
Aug 03, 2013, 03:25 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
To protect the work surface and to keep from bonding the wing to the table top; use packing tape strips along the edges of the wing.
Apply glue to all the spars and the edges.
Align the trailing edge and place weights to hold it in place.
Slide the leading edge shim in place with the thick end at the root. Apply more small weights working forward as you go. Clamp the leading edge.
Move the small weights to the tips and let the panels dry completely.

Note the refreshed blue mark on the aileron hinge line.
this helps a bunch later.
Aug 03, 2013, 03:52 PM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP

About the weights.

All most any collection of weights will work ,some you already have like socket sets, nuts, bolts , lead shot in plastic bottles, batteries . . . . . .
But I always get asked about my ingots.
I made them and here is how.

I took a block of wood and sanded it to the shape I wanted (the small white ones) I coated it with wax, the kind of wax they make toilet seals with.
(A whole ring is just two bucks and nothing sticks to it.)
A flat plastic sheet was coated with the wax too. A small wad of wax was spread on the bottom of the block and it was squished onto the plastic sheet.
High temp silicone was spread over the block like cake icing then the rest of the tube was applied. This gave me a coat over the block of about inch, more is OK too. ( high temp Silicone is the red stuff sold at automotive stores)

Months later . . . .
I found my lead mold 9 weeks later, I had forgotten the project waiting for it to dry completely. Bet it would have been ready in three weeks.
I pealed it off the plastic and pulled out the wood block and started pouring lead.

Notice: lead smelting is very dangerous, moisture trapped in a pour can explode sending molten lead everywhere and this includes your eyes. This may be why you will be hard pressed to find a tire shop willing to give lead away any more.
Back in the day I could walk into a Firestone or Goodyear with a bucket and glove and walk out with 40 pounds. Now its regulated, but I still find lead weights in the street walking my dog or in parking lots.
Start picking them up, its good for the environment.
Aug 03, 2013, 08:46 PM
Registered User
Dunno Mate... Cute lil kid aside, this one has little to No appeal for me.
Lacking the cartoony flavour pf the previous efforts .. which were Good.
Methinks an Egg was laid with this one... sorry but that's my opinion.
Aug 04, 2013, 11:25 PM
Registered User
Joe Pierson's Avatar
Very cool, Let me know when you kit one!
Aug 05, 2013, 03:56 AM
Ken's CAD Models
dz1sfb's Avatar
Love the looks! It has great character.

Aug 05, 2013, 07:58 AM
Registered User
Sam Harbold's Avatar
Keep the build photos coming. I have a 2 year old grandson who already has a model along with a book about Dusty. When I showed him the photo you posted of your grandson holding the plane he thought we should go to the hobby shop and get one right now. I placed my order for your short kit on Saturday and also ordered the electronics and motor on Saturday.

Before you ask yes at 2 years old he knows the hobby shop.

Aug 05, 2013, 08:11 AM
Registered User
flypaper 2's Avatar
Hi Sparks. Interested in your thing about lead. I used to work for an auto engine rebuilder about a 100 yrs ago and one of my jobs was to do babbiting of bearings. These ware lead based too. When I wanted to pour ingots for storage. I used aluminum, as the lead won't stick to it. A half moon shaped mold works well or any shape for that matter. Even aluminum blocks propped together will work. As you say you need to heat the mold with a propane torch or the likes, to drive the moisture out of it before you pour or it can blow off on you. Not nice to get hit with molten lead.By the way, here's a foamy cartoon P40 I built. Kind of crude, but fun.

Aug 05, 2013, 09:06 AM
RC 4 Life
sparks's Avatar
Thread OP
Bare, thanks.
6 out of 7 isn't bad; I couldn't toon it up much and expect it to fly so it is a bit narrow for a Cartoon plane.

Joe, I cant see doing a full kit. It's not the labor involved either, it's the shipping .
I made several kits of the Cartoon A-7 and they sit while the cartoon short kits still go out the door.
You can't blame a guy when the money saved on shipping can buy equipment.
Cartoon Short kits are on the website.

Ken, thanks
We will finish the wing and get the control surfaces done next
Aug 05, 2013, 10:06 AM
RC Adddict
Wilfor's Avatar
Originally Posted by sparks

Joe, I cant see doing a full kit. It's not the labor involved either, it's the shipping .
I made several kits of the Cartoon A-7 and they sit while the cartoon short kits still go out the door.
You can't blame a guy when the money saved on shipping can buy equipment.
Cartoon Short kits are on the website.
Might not be a reason but your description for the Full kit on the site is a little confusing. at the top of the page it says
Kit contains:
Printed instructions and patterns, all the foam panels includeing(including there shouldnt be an e in there ) the sheeting

But at the bottom of the page it says
Materials needed to complete the airframe.
Two foam sheets , 3mm 28 inch X 40 inch
One foam sheet , 6mm 24 inch X 24 inch

which is the same list required to build the short kit .

I realize this isnt true but some might not.
Aug 05, 2013, 11:20 AM
PSALM 14:1
Sammy70's Avatar
Very cool build Sparks.

May have to build one of these for my son...
Aug 05, 2013, 07:44 PM
Registered User
Sam Harbold's Avatar
Thanks for the great service. I ordered the short kit on Saturday and received it today. It doesn't get any better than that.

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