Originally Posted by pmackenzie

6)Carefully unplug connector from P8 on the RF daughter board (top one on the right side) pulling on alternate ends seems to be the best way to remove it.
7) Swap the two wires shown, first from the left with third from the right.
(Use the tip of an xacto, small jewellers screwdriver to hold up the plastic tab while pulling on the wire) Make sure they are in all the way and the right way up when you re-install them.
8) plug back in the connector. Support the free end of the PCB while rocking it in end to end as you did when removing it. Make sure it is fully seated.

Crap Pat, don't know how I missed this post! Many thanks, now I'm a happy Throttle Hold camper and have my SH Long/Short back.

Cheers
Tim

Originally Posted by Thorvald

Crap Pat, don't know how I missed this post! Many thanks, now I'm a happy Throttle Hold camper and have my SH Long/Short back.

Cheers
Tim

Yeah Pat,
You get many gold stars for that one. Thanks.

Dan

Originally Posted by Kilrah

Trainer input has a 100 Ohm series resistor, with a diode to VCC.This goes directly to the CPU output pin, and thropugh a transistor buffer to the CPU input pin.
Positive should not be a problem (at least for the Taranis, maybe not so much for the slave radio).
Negative might not be very healthy, would need to check if the CPU is OK with negative voltages on Hi-Z configured pins.


Same for a hacker, nothing a pair of eyes and a continuity tester won't find out

Thank you Kilrah for this info, I'm working with Graupner, Futaba and Hitec slave Tx's.. The Graupner Optical cable seems to create a problem: it should need a pull-up resistor. I'll investigate more...

Did anyone get anywhere with the Dx4 module hack on Taranis? Can't remember where this stands and I have a Dx4 here waiting to be butchered... (and a couple of Blade Tx's).

It's implemented on SVN and working. Should be part of next release.

Thanks Kilrah.

Did everyone see the post in the monster thread about two more ADC's on the X8R2Analog Interface? Hopefully there is enough code space to support a temp. sensor for us Nitro heads!

If the value were meaningless, they would not have bothered to include it. The lower the value, the more of the transmitter's signal is beiing transmitted. The higher the value, the less of the signal is transmitted...

Originally Posted by Gymnast

That was the first modification I did with my Taranis:

Hi,

I am getting the parts to do this mod. Are the parts below the correct parts?

u.fl connectors: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290896726307

antenna socket with pigtail& u.fl connector: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300758186587

Is the 150mm pigtail long enough or do I need longer?

TIA for the info.

chewy

The u.fl connector looks to be right one, but $4 for one connector seems expensive.

Here is 10 connectors for $4.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-IPX-U-...item4ac3e61ac4

I'd think you'd want some extras just incase of mishaps.

I don't have the Taranis so I don't know what the length of the pigtail should be. Sorry.
But the pigtail you linked to is for 10 pieces., by the way.

Does anyone know what the 2 spare taps are on the switch board?

Thanks,
Dan

Originally Posted by chewytm

Hi,

I am getting the parts to do this mod. Are the parts below the correct parts?

u.fl connectors: http://www.ebay.com/itm/290896726307

antenna socket with pigtail& u.fl connector: http://www.ebay.com/itm/300758186587

Is the 150mm pigtail long enough or do I need longer?

TIA for the info.

chewy

I actually just soldered the coax with SMA connector directly on to the board just like the stock antenna, however putting one of those u.fl connectors on is an even better idea and may try that soon too. I can't remember exactly how long of coax you need but it's not long at all, maybe 3-4 inches.

-Chris

Got my "your Taranis is ready to order" email from T9Hobbysport in the UK today - very exciting! Anyway, I just wondered whether people have used an aftermarket bluetooth transmitter with any success? I see one post where someone is using one in this thread, but otherwise very little despite the huge number of Taranis material on RCGroups. Are they worth a try til we get the official bluetooth hack using the internal serial port?

Originally Posted by KC

The u.fl connector looks to be right one, but $4 for one connector seems expensive.

Here is 10 connectors for $4.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-IPX-U-...item4ac3e61ac4

I'd think you'd want some extras just incase of mishaps.

I don't have the Taranis so I don't know what the length of the pigtail should be. Sorry.
But the pigtail you linked to is for 10 pieces., by the way.

Originally Posted by Gymnast

I actually just soldered the coax with SMA connector directly on to the board just like the stock antenna, however putting one of those u.fl connectors on is an even better idea and may try that soon too. I can't remember exactly how long of coax you need but it's not long at all, maybe 3-4 inches.

-Chris

Thanks for your info and the link.

chewy

Just had a look and ordered all the necessary stuff for the conversion, plus spares. I will wait to get this stuff before opening up the case to do all the mods at once.

1. Switch plus new charger
2. u.fl/pigtail mod
3. change out the side sliders which I botched slightly while cutting the notch/detent too big
4. speaker mod.

The only parts I am waiting for are for the antenna.

Enjoyed showing off my Taranis with its speech last Sunday. Tomorrow is another day. Less people/pilots expect tomorrow, though.

chewy

Hey guys I'd suggest you do some signal checks before and after modifying the antenna to be removable.
I haven't done the measurements myself but I have been told that you get signal loss with each connector you insert in the line.

Tig