Originally Posted by cansfan

Wayne see my aileron settings below please:
Aileron 1 subtrim -11 Max positive 81% max negative -90% max positive/negative limit at default +/- 125%
Aileron 2 subtrim 0% Max positive 100% Max negative -86% max positive/negative limit at default +/- 125%

I have my ailerons set at 35 degrees up and down travel. When I move my aileron stick say half way I was expecting to see approximately the same value on both surfaces from xicoy. Instead of approximately the same we'll say I see 16 degrees on one and 24 degrees on the other. Those are numbers to simply relay my idea and not true numbers. What I am seeing is along the entire sweep of the aileron stick the numbers aren't always staying close to each other, say 25 degrees on left aileron and 27 degrees on right aileron, they are wondering as far as 6 degrees apart at different points. When I ad trim to see if the angles stay close they do for the most part maybe 2-2.5 degrees difference. Why are they moving farther apart with full stick movement?

That's a symptom of a mechanical setup with room for improvement. One of the best descriptions I've seen was written up as part of a build log by Joe Smith a while back: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ric-Conversion
Scroll down to: Step 8: Aileron Setup using the “Finding the true center” method

That's how I do it, and it works quite well - you end up with very little difference if any at mid throws.

Originally Posted by AeroKen

That's a symptom of a mechanical setup with room for improvement. One of the best descriptions I've seen was written up as part of a build log by Joe Smith a while back: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...ric-Conversion
Scroll down to: Step 8: Aileron Setup using the “Finding the true center” method

That's how I do it, and it works quite well - you end up with very little difference if any at mid throws.

Aeroken "with room for improvement" = your setup sucks. Made me actually lol the way you put it. Hey I appreciate all the help I can get with whatever it is I can improve on or I'm stuck on. I'll check out the link right now and hope I learn something from it. Thanks again Aeroken.

I apologize in advance for the stupid question - under the "configuration" sub-menu within the "system" menu there is PPM output / connector setting. Is this only for when connecting an external device to the output connector in the radio? I ask, because mine is set to 8 positive, there is also the option off, etc. As I don't use an external module connected to the transmitter, can I switch this to off?

Hi,

Yes, there is a connector inside the transmitter, this setting sets the output format of that connector. In you case you can switch it off.

Aaro

Originally Posted by stephmet

I apologize in advance for the stupid question - under the "configuration" sub-menu within the "system" menu there is PPM output / connector setting. Is this only for when connecting an external device to the output connector in the radio? I ask, because mine is set to 8 positive, there is also the option off, etc. As I don't use an external module connected to the transmitter, can I switch this to off?

@wfield0455 - I figured the throttle percentage voice announcement thing completely by accident. For anyone interested, go to sounds of prop controls, add, pick your throttle channel, for mode select voice. Do not pick a file (that was my problem). To have the voice announcement associate throttle off with zero vs. -100%, put your throttle in the off position and push the function button under the "centr".

Originally Posted by Puttputtmaru

By the way, this is what I use
I'm using a JetCat turbine so I have the throttle throws set at +/- 75% and the limits set at +/- 100% (these were set in Model -> Servo Setup)

1) Throttle trim is basically deactivated (trim buttons do not change the throttle setting). This was done in the Fine Tuning -> Digital Trim menu. Select the throttle function, and scroll across to "- Rate+". Set both these rates to 0%. Now the digital throttle trims are disabled.
2) In Advanced Properties -> Other Model Options and scroll down to Throttle Cut. Choose your throttle kill switch (I use Sf) and set the throttle cut output value to -125%

By looking at the Receiver Output screen you can see that:
- when the throttle kill switch is activated, the receiver output for the throttle channel is -93% regardless of throttle position.
- when the throttle kill switch is deactivated and the throttle stick is in the idle position, the receiver output for throttle is -72%
- when the throttle kill switch is deactivated and the throttle stick is in the full power position, the receiver output for throttle is 74%

These settings have to be taught to the engine (Learn RC). For low trim & idle stick (shut down position), just activate the turbine kill switch. For trim up & low stick, deactivate the kill switch and put the stick in the idle position. For trim up & stick up, the kill switch should be deactivated and the stick in the full power position.

Functionally, to start the turbine, the kill switch has to be deactivated and the throttle moved to the up position. To shut down the turbine, the kill switch is activated (regardless of the throttle stick position).

Make sure to program the receiver to failsafe on throttle at -93%. Also, I added a couple of wav files to play based on the kill switch position (Advanced Properties -> Sounds on Event) that say "Kill Turbine" when the kill switch is activated and "Turbine Run" when the switch is deactivated. I also set a preflight position to make sure the kill switch is activated when starting up the transmitter (Advanced Properties -> Stick/Switches Setup)

(Thanks RCjet for helping with this)

Hi is there a way to program this so you don't loose the possibility to cool the turbine with the kill switch activated? because right now you can't spool the turbine as you could do it without activating this...

I’m not sure, but I’m using 2 switch for mine......one for throttle cut....one for the Idle up both are locking switches.....

Originally Posted by Dansy

I’m not sure, but I’m using 2 switch for mine......one for throttle cut....one for the Idle up both are locking switches.....

Same here and the cool down works unless I misunderstand the question from alcastan.

Originally Posted by alcastan

Hi is there a way to program this so you don't loose the possibility to cool the turbine with the kill switch activated? because right now you can't spool the turbine as you could do it without activating this...

I think I know what you're saying, using the throttle cut feature won't allow you to manually initiate a cool down by moving the throttle stick all the way up with the throttle cut on. The way I worked around this was to use a logical switch for the throttle cut. The logical switch is a combination of my kill switch (Sc) and the throttle stick (P4) with P4 only on if X<98%. With this arrangement you can move the throttle to 100% with the kill switch on and the starter will engage, this works on my Kingtech and JetsMunt turbines.

Originally Posted by d_churchill

I think I know what you're saying, using the throttle cut feature won't allow you to manually initiate a cool down by moving the throttle stick all the way up with the throttle cut on. The way I worked around this was to use a logical switch for the throttle cut. The logical switch is a combination of my kill switch (Sc) and the throttle stick (P4) with P4 only on if X<98%. With this arrangement you can move the throttle to 100% with the kill switch on and the starter will engage, this works on my Kingtech and JetsMunt turbines.

Ya that works too......but I like simple so 2 switches for me......

Originally Posted by d_churchill

I think I know what you're saying, using the throttle cut feature won't allow you to manually initiate a cool down by moving the throttle stick all the way up with the throttle cut on. The way I worked around this was to use a logical switch for the throttle cut. The logical switch is a combination of my kill switch (Sc) and the throttle stick (P4) with P4 only on if X<98%. With this arrangement you can move the throttle to 100% with the kill switch on and the starter will engage, this works on my Kingtech and JetsMunt turbines.

That's exactly what I was looking for, really appreciate it, I'll try it

Regards,

Originally Posted by d_churchill

I think I know what you're saying, using the throttle cut feature won't allow you to manually initiate a cool down by moving the throttle stick all the way up with the throttle cut on. The way I worked around this was to use a logical switch for the throttle cut. The logical switch is a combination of my kill switch (Sc) and the throttle stick (P4) with P4 only on if X<98%. With this arrangement you can move the throttle to 100% with the kill switch on and the starter will engage, this works on my Kingtech and JetsMunt turbines.

Would you be able to give me a tutorial on how you programmed it, I just tried it and the only way I could make it work, is to put the P4 at 100% and activate the Throttle Cut switch, that way, the cool down works, buy I have to deactivate/activate the switch for the on/off cool down instead on just putting throttle on 100% and going back to 0% for making a "cycle"

Originally Posted by alcastan

Would you be able to give me a tutorial on how you programmed it, I just tried it and the only way I could make it work, is to put the P4 at 100% and activate the Throttle Cut switch, that way, the cool down works, buy I have to deactivate/activate the switch for the on/off cool down instead on just putting throttle on 100% and going back to 0% for making a "cycle"

Here's how mine's setup:

Originally Posted by d_churchill

Here's how mine's setup:

Great, I'll try it, thank you very much!!

Regards,

Long time listener, first time caller. New Jeti user coming from another brand. I have watched a lot of videos and have been reading through a bunch of stuff on the web. Lots of good information out there. I am setting up my first plane which is a basic set up for an EDF. 1 Aileron, 1 Flap, Gear, normal tail and nose steering on a separate channel which is mixed to the rudder at 30% and goes to 100% on a spring loaded switch. Flaps are set up via flight modes on a 3 position switch and that seems to be working. Hoping to fly with the new equipment tomorrow. My stupid question is about the antennas on the RX which is a REX7. Is there an optimal geometry for them? Do they need to be at an angle or just straight out ok?

Thanks in advance.