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Dec 16, 2014, 11:13 AM
Right Rudder
PittSpecial's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by missle
so whatever happened with the flight report or completion?
Fair enough!

Distractions came soon when I was to start with this project, however, I have stood fast and hard NOT to give up nor sell the model.

Things like Work, Family and a new project with one certain 1987 BMW 325i Convertible has taken my attention away from this project.

I need to make room and presently selling a couple of models here and there.

Today, I will sell one Brand New-In-The Box SONIC RC Model "Glow" version and hope to sell more before the Holidays come upon us.

Yes, I will get to this project as soon as I can and hopefully real soon.
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Sep 09, 2021, 08:44 PM
Right Rudder
PittSpecial's Avatar

Going Forward with this Project!


Quote:
Originally Posted by missle
so whatever happened with the flight report or completion?
Yes, indeed it has been a long time.

Putting aside any excuses, I have thrown away the LARGE BOX and therefore, no turning back on this project.

Here are some pictures so, far.
Sep 10, 2021, 08:50 AM
An itch?. Scratch build.
eflightray's Avatar
Brings back memories, I had the 63" span smaller Seagull Sparrowhawk, I think there was also a 71" version.
BL4030 385kv 6s.

Classic 30's look.

Ray.
Sep 10, 2021, 09:35 AM
Right Rudder
PittSpecial's Avatar
Ray,

Nice Sparrow Hawk there. At times I wished that mine was the smaller one but, I just could not pass UP the price and if I recall correctly, I paid $100 Cash for mine and still in that Super Large Box!

I like that Yellow FUSE and Silver Wings on yours!

I am thinking of doing something with my 62CC Red FUSE to have some other color for good contrast.

Thanks for posting.
Sep 11, 2021, 01:48 AM
Right Rudder
PittSpecial's Avatar

Found an Alternative Power System


Guys,

Saving Weight is what my goals are without scarifying Thrust-to-weight values "or" Watts-per-Pound values.

Came across an older Hacker A60-5S (V2) that comes with 295Kv and a Castle Creations Phoenix ICE 100-Amps.

The best of all here is using just 6-Cells to swing an APC 18 X 10-E Propeller will propel this large model while keeping the weight down more than previously calculated before.

Just amazing Power System!

Sep 11, 2021, 02:10 AM
Right Rudder
PittSpecial's Avatar

Found an Alternative Power System...Cont...


Wow,

Lets place the APC 20 X 10-E Propeller and have some real fun!

More than 1:1 Thrust-to-Weight and still respectable airspeed.

Can wait!



Sep 11, 2021, 05:24 PM
Right Rudder
PittSpecial's Avatar

UPDATE - Alternate Power System!


Hello good people! I hope you are doing great and making the best from all this rain we are having. I was fortunate last night to acquire a Used HACKER A60-5S (V2) Brushless Motor (295Kv) and it is a monster of a motor plus a Castle Creations ICE 100-AMP ESC from a gentleman that is a member of the On-Top-Of-The World RC Club, Ocala, Florida. As a matter of fact they are having a FUN-FLY on October 30th, 2021 (8am-5pm) and their official web site is:
https://otowrcflyers.com/

Gary who sold me the power system was very helpful and gave me assurances that this power system will fly my large SEGULL Sparrow Hawk 62CC of 85.4 Inch Wing Span and I have guess-estimated a total flight weight of 16-lbs.
Of course, I did pass by GravesRC and got my Battery Connector Soldered in place on that Castle Creations ICE 100-AMP ESC and got four (4) Hitec HS-645-MG that produces 107 oz-in of torque at 4.8-Volts.

Gary was so nice that he gave me a Falcon wooden 20 X 10 Propeller (a $30 propeller) included in the sale. I paid a cool $150 for both the Motor and ESC.
I have included a Pro-Calc estimate of the performance using the HACKER A60-5S (295Kv) Motor swinging the 20 X 10 propeller and using only 6-Cells, 5,000mAH, 45C, Lithium Polymer batteries. The results are more than 1 -to- 1 Thrust-to-Weight and respectable airspeed.
Here are the components ready for my SEGULL Sparrow Hawk 62CC Project.

Life is Good! 🙂
Sep 16, 2021, 01:33 AM
Right Rudder
PittSpecial's Avatar
A few days ago.........

Okay, cutting away for a Top Hatch.

You know that just because I am an Electric RC Flyer doesn't mean someone that decides to go with a Gasoline Engine would not benefit for having a TOP HATCH because as one of five (5) instructors at my RC Club, I have seen the Tank Valves close by the tank and at times things (tubing) and other items need access and let me tell you, the only way to reach into for anything in there is by removing the Wing Assembly as this model was built in this manner.

Very first thing I did was to use a similar size Lithium Polymer Battery and inserting it inside the FUSE to see how much relative space I needed for the 6-Cell Lithium Polymer battery packs. Using a stiff and rather old Tape as a Guide and using Push Pins, allowed me to really finish the cut-away for the Top Hatch in short order! The Push Pins allowed the initial guide for the application for the Tape and this was how I marked up the Top FUSE for a Top Hatch cutting session.

The rather stiff and old Tape that I used to make the Top Hatch outline also help heaps in keeping my sharp hobby knife to keep a straight cutting path and without veering down below the FUSE sides. I don't think that the results would have been as good if I didn't use this tape!

Physical cutting is something that you need some quiet time and make sure you tell the other people (family or whatever) to not bother you and to keep quiet so, complete concentration will be possible. Remember, I was doing this free-hand, notwithstanding the Tape! I went slow and careful and maintained my thoughts to the task at hand (no Brain floating, PLEASE!).

I am super pleased in the results and as you can see in the pictures, I was able to glue in the two end-formers on the TOP Hatch to give it strength and keep it's shape.

Forward work consists of gluing in the End Formers at the FUSE end where Top Hatch cut-away is located. I will implement a Push-Spring Bolt at the rear of the Top Hatch and a Dowel for the Front of the Top Hatch which will be my method of securing it.
Sep 16, 2021, 01:34 AM
Right Rudder
PittSpecial's Avatar

Update!


Okay,

Work got in the way, as usual and some family obligations so, for two (2) nights I have made some slow progress to finish up that Top Hatch and ways to secure it.

First, I had to make planking frame around the Top Hatch cover itself to provide some rigid strength and so the same with the FUSE side.

Just a lesson learn here that you would want to glue in the End-Cap formers at the FUSE end (both sides) before you proceed in cutting the underlying Ply platform which is right underneath the Top Hatch Cover. Why? Because the factory only provided a thin and weak end-cap plywood formers and when you start sawing these just come unglued but, not to the point of any damage but, still just a heads UP.

At time of this write-up I have finally figured out a way to secure the Top Hatch cover to the FUSE by using some lose magnets from a Park Zone 480 Brushless motor and at the FUSE end a machine bolt with a large metal washer. I have not tried it yet because the glue that will hold the magnets is presently curing.

Okay, I am tired so, here's some pictures of my rather slow progress less the magnets.
Last edited by PittSpecial; Sep 16, 2021 at 01:45 AM.


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