Let's Build a GW-ezone 40" 330 - RC Groups
View Poll Results: What Size Extra Would You Want If You Could Have Your Dream Foamie?
28 Inch Indoor Baby? 14 12.07%
36 Inch Regular Madness? 36 31.03%
40 Inch Big Time Madness? 23 19.83%
45 Inch Giant Madness? 13 11.21%
60 Inch Monster Madness!!! hehe 30 25.86%
Voters: 116. You may not vote on this poll

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Jan 31, 2004, 07:31 PM
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Let's Build a GW-ezone 40" 330

This thread will be a Step by Step 'How To' Series. I will be building the New GW-ezone 40" Extra 330 from beta plans, and will be shoiwing you guys how I do it as I go along.

This will be a *complete* building series from start to finish and will have many pictures along the way. I will be writing this for the beginner to these so if you are a more experienced builder you may just want to 'skim' over some of it.

There will be many tricks that I'm sure many can use though.

We're Gonna Build A Really Nice 330 here, and It Will Be A Pretty One Too!

If You Have ANY Questions At All, Please Don't Hesitate To Ask, and Either Myself, GW, or One Of The Many Other Talented Ezone Members Will Be Able To Help You.

Let's Get Started!!! The Next Few Posts Will Have Info and.....

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Jan 31, 2004, 08:03 PM
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Plans & Templates

Now that we have the pleasantries out of the way, let's jump right into the beginning of our new 330.

First, this is a Beta plane at present... everything has to be tested and finalized yet. You'll want to send GW-ezone a PM and get the plans from him after they are finalized.

I went down to Kinko's and had them print off a full size set of plans. I didn't use the tiled. I think the full size are easier, and you don't have to tape all those pages together. I had two set's done for 8 bucks. Check pricing. I had one guy tell me he payed 20 bucks for a set that he had done up for another plane! THAT is a rip-off IMO. 10 bucks tops!

The first thing you want to do is cut out the wing, fuse, and X-member cross brace for the fuselage. Cut them OUTSIDE the lines about 1/8-1/4", you'll see why in the pics.

Next, take some poster board and tape two of them together to give the needed length for the fuse, and X-bracing. Tape only on the back, as the front will be covered with the template, and you don't want a 'bump' there.

Aquire some 3M 77 Spray Adhesive (if you don't already have some), and spray a nice even coat on the back of the parts and put them out on the posterboard. I laid the Fuse, and the X-brace out on the 2 pieces that were taped together, and used a separate single piece for the wing plan. Smooth out the pieces with a paper towel working from the center outward, and let set for just a couple minutes.

This is what it will look like when you are done with the above step....
Last edited by SharksTooth; Jan 31, 2004 at 11:30 PM.
Jan 31, 2004, 08:04 PM
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This Next Picture Is Of The Wing Template After Glueing...

Sorry about the splice in the template, the printer ran the aileron off, and I had to splice in a piece of paper, and draw the remainder of it. It was a fairly simple task though.
Last edited by SharksTooth; Feb 03, 2004 at 05:11 PM.
Jan 31, 2004, 08:08 PM
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Cut Them Babies Out!

The next thing you want to do is take some nice sharp scissors, and cut out the templates carefully just on the lines. Take your time on this, and make sure you make nice clean cuts with no waves. These templates are your airplane, and if they are wavy, or not exact, your airplane will be too, and you will have to go to the dreaded sanding block! hehe So, keep it neat.

After That is done you will have beautiful templates that look just like this...

BTW, no 'PINK' Jokes...I covered the pink up with the template...the posters are blue on the other side! LOL
Last edited by SharksTooth; Feb 03, 2004 at 11:39 PM.
Jan 31, 2004, 08:11 PM
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Back To The Shop

Now, gotta get back out to the shop and do some more. I will continue this thread as I go along and will take pics all along the way. Posts may be sporadic during the week, as I am back in college again and work also. I WILL show it all, all the way through complettion...that's a promise!
Last edited by SharksTooth; Feb 01, 2004 at 07:19 PM.
Jan 31, 2004, 08:54 PM
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Great! I have a FFF "kit" to assemble, so I'm sure I can learn a great deal with MY plane watching you assemble the Extra 330, and thanks! G. Priest
Feb 01, 2004, 07:41 PM
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Let's Cut Some Depron!

Hi Everybody,
I managed to get the battery charged up and it charged quicker than I thought. I thought It was a slow charge...obviously not! hehe

The next pic shows the tools and materials we're gonna use to cut out the parts. Be sure and go over the next few posts and study them carefully if you have not done this before. There are lots of tricks that will keep it neat and help you to avoid trouble if you haven't used this stuff before. Depron is really nice stuff to work with, but it can be hard to get at times, so we're gonna treat it like gold in this thread!

In the top part of the pic is 3 sheets of white 6mm Depron. This will be enough to complete the 330.

The black thing with the right angle bend is nothing more than an index pointer from a surface mount gauge I have. I use it for 'scribing lines in the foam. You can make something similar by sharpening up a piece of rod or anything reallly. Don't make it so sharp it will cut though. This is a real trick. You don't wanna draw lines with pens or anything as it's hard to get off and will show through the tape we'll be putting on later. All you have to do is *lightly* scribe these lines once we get started.

I also have 4 different measures I use. They are all metal and have inches and milimeters. I use the mm scales for accuracy. I have a 60" measure that is very convienent for making those centerlines, and cutting graphics like we'll be doing later. I have a 36" 'yardstick' that I also use for long stuff. In addition, I have a small 6" metal ruler, and a 15". The 15" one goes down into 32nds of an inch...yes, I get THAT accurate. I also build precision GS Competition aircraft, and I'm VERY picky about stuff. I want 'em light, straight, and neat! The pen in the pic was used to add some lines to the plans.

You'll also see some gold stuff in the top of the picture stuck down to the glass. That is 3M Gold tm StickyBack Sandpaper. It comes in handy for trueing things, and I use it all the time. The level back there we're not gonna need...it's just sitting there. hehe

On to the next post... (pic is attached)
Last edited by SharksTooth; Feb 03, 2004 at 05:55 PM.
Feb 01, 2004, 08:29 PM
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Centerline & Cut Controls

The next step we're gonna do, is to draw an accurate centerline on the X-brace (shown in pic), and a thrust line onto the profile view of the fuselage plans. Measure the exact center of the stab TE, and cutout shown on the front of the X-brace. Draw a dashed line with a long straight edge.

Note: Be very accurate with this. It will be used to measure off of later to position the X-brace exactly on center down the entire length of the fuse. It will also be used as a guide where to position the tape color shcheme before final assembly.

After you have done that, carefully cut the elevator and rudder on the lines shown on the plans. I went one step further and measured the lines to get *exact* symetry between both elevator halves in the case of the elevator. This is important on an aerobatic model. I then cut out the elevator with scissors.

The reason I cut the elevator out before cutting the entire X-brace/stab/elevator assembly out, was becasue my sheets of Depron were not wide enough and the elevators hung over. You could cut the elevator out *after* cutting the whole unit out, but you'd have to order the larger size sheets from www.depronalaska.com . I got my first Depron from www.depronusa.com. Both places are great, and you can do it either way.

To the next post we go! (pic is attached)
Last edited by SharksTooth; Feb 01, 2004 at 09:03 PM.
Feb 01, 2004, 08:51 PM
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Scribe Lines Onto the Depron

What we're gonna do next, is to scribe some lines onto the depron by tracing around them. Remember the trick about not using a pen here. Scribing lines keeps it neat!

I'll be pasting two pics in this post, and the next post for this.

If you look carefully at the first pic, you will see the scribed lines. After these are cutout, the lines dissapear. Scribe lines around all templates, and be carefull not to push too hard, and cut into the Depron. You wanna mark it just enough to where you can see it. Also be careful not to gouge it. Depron kinda tears if you're not careful here...we wanna keep nice clean edges here, so be careful.

The Pic shown is the elevator that I did on a piece I had left over from a previous plane build.
Feb 01, 2004, 09:07 PM
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The next pic shows how I laid out the fuselage and the X-brace. Be sure to plan this part out carefully so you have as little waste as possible...remember, this stuff is like gold. hehe

Scribe around all of your parts just like this. I'll be showing important points of the cutting in the next steps.
Last edited by SharksTooth; Feb 01, 2004 at 09:10 PM.
Feb 01, 2004, 09:31 PM
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Ok, before we explain the next pic. Let me tell you guys about a few things I've found with the depron that keeps the cuts clean, and keeps them from tearing.

1. Be gentle...Depron is easy to dent and those dents WILL show in the covering so be careful. Up to this point I have not been able to figure out any way to remove them. Be carful when holding and cutting. Keep those hands flat. The heel of your palm and fingertips will push dents in the stuff easy when you're really trying to keep the Depron from sliding while cutting.

2. Keep the area clean, and free of things that might dent, or tear it. Tools are a good example! Don't ask me how I know! heh

3. Use a ***BRAND NEW*** #11 X-acto blade each time you cut out an airplane. Even if it hasn't been used for anything else. This stuff will tear if the blade is not sharp! (Big Warning Here!)

4. Use some blue fanfold or cardboard to 'back' the Depron when cutting. This will help to suport the cut and keep it from tearing, and will keep your knife tip sharp.

5. Push the blade tip straight down into a corner, and then use a up and down 'sawing' motion slowly, and while leaning the blade back to a 30 to 45 degrees angle. Once this is done, you can ***SLOWLY*** pull the X-acto through the depron. It will slice real nice...this is the nice part about using Depron. If you do it right, it cuts so nice.

6. Cut each line in one pass. Don't pull the blade out and start back again. Also, make sure the blade goes into the the fanfoldfold or carboard your using as a back, and that it goes all the way through on the first cut.

7. Make sure your blade is exactly perpendicular (90 degrees) to the depron so your edges will be square and true. Keep checking every inch as you cut...this is VERY important.

Here's the pic. Notice the blade angle.

Oh, BTW, Pay particular attention to the 'stars' in the pic. This is special professional "star powered" Depron. It floats better in harriers. LMAO!!!
Last edited by SharksTooth; Feb 03, 2004 at 06:06 PM.
Feb 01, 2004, 09:52 PM
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We Have a Pro Cut Kit!!!

When you have cut out all the pieces carefully, you will have all the needed pieces to assemble the airplane. Notice in the pic, that I elected to cut out on the rudder, and elevator separately to save depron, and because the elevators were wider than my sheets. If you choose to get the bigger sheets, you can cut them out all at the same time.

Note: Notice the bottle of Alcohol in the pic. Keep that stuff nearby. If the Depron gets the slightest fingerprint on it, wipe it off with a paper towel, and some alcohol. I've also learned to wipe it down everytime I glue something, as there will invariably be a gluey fingerprint that mysteriously appears on the plane right before covering if you don't! hehe
Last edited by SharksTooth; Feb 03, 2004 at 06:10 PM.
Feb 01, 2004, 10:23 PM
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Marking Thrustline and X-Brace Centerline

The next thing we want to do, is to transfer the lines we made on the templates for the X-brace, and the fuse, to the actual parts.

Position the templates over the parts carefully, and make sure they are even all the way around the parts. Make a mark on each end of the parts (make sure it's accurate !!!), and use a straight edge to connect both ends, then scribe a dashed line down the center of the X-brace. Also mark the thrustline onto the fuse. The thustline will be the center line of the X-brace as viewed from the side. Again, make absolutely certain you get this accurate or the incidences for the plane will be off.

After you have these marks done, move onto the next post where we will be doing a couple more cuts.

Sorry, no picture on this one. For some reason, I couldn't get the light just right like I did in one of the previous pics. The lines wouldn't show up.
Last edited by SharksTooth; Feb 03, 2004 at 06:12 PM.
Feb 01, 2004, 10:44 PM
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X-Brace & Fuse Cutouts

Now we're gonna make a couple of cuts in the fuse and the X-brace. I'm not gonna cut the motor mount or ailerons at this time, because I want to devote a whole post to those, as there are a few tricks that I think will really help out there.

Measure out carefully (using the parts as a gauge to get them exact) the cutout lengths for the front cutout on the X-brace, and the cutout in the fuse for the X-brace, and the wing. On the width for the cutout I use 2.5mm each side of the line, and mark this front and back, then connect the marks using a straightedge and a scribe. Using 2.5mm gives a nice tight joint. Lay a scrap (on edge) in the mark you made to see just exactly where on the line you want to cut.

Use a straightedge to make these cuts as you want these cuts to be totally wave free. The X-brace acts as a flying surface aeroduynamically, so you want it arrow stright and true.

Mark and cut the wing cutout the same way you cut the X-brace cutout.

Mark a 50 degree angle at the back of the cutout projecting from the centerline of the X-brace cutout on the top and bottom of the fuse with the scribe again. Take a compass and mark from the centerline apex around using a radius slightly longer than the hingeline of the center stab area, and cut this out. (See pic) This will give travel clearance for the elevator all the way through full 3D throw.

This is the last pic for tonight. It may be a couple of days before I can post more. I will be sure to post them as I have time to get the plane done, and get them up along with the explanations.
Last edited by SharksTooth; Feb 03, 2004 at 06:24 PM.
Feb 03, 2004, 05:18 PM
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Sorry About The Delay

I apologize for not continuing with this on a timely basis. I have been bit by the flu bug, and have been very sick. I was laid up in bed all day yesterday and got nothing at all done. I will get right back on this again as soon as I am able. I just thought I'd let you guys know why the build has come to a halt right now. As promised, this is only temporary, and the build, pics, and info. will continue.

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