covering foam with white glue a tissue - RC Groups
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Jan 29, 2004, 10:43 PM
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dave morris's Avatar

covering foam with white glue a tissue

maybe I am doing something wrong, 50/50 mix of elmers white glue and water, tissue bought at hobby store, and craft store (seemed pretty much the same stuff). soak tissue in mixture, not long just dip it in and pull out. I am not having much luck with compound curves, like on the turtle deck, get a bunch of wrinkles that I can't seem to work out. I end up cutting strips, going across the TD, with seam about 1/4 inch wide. Should I be soaking the tissue longer? am I missing something here? Really like the finished results, but would like to have less seams as they are pretty noticable. I am using colored tissue so don't want to have to sand and paint.
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Jan 29, 2004, 11:24 PM
There is no spoon
Dax's Avatar
try brushing the glue on the plane with a paint brush and then laying the tissue down dry, and then brush on another coat of glue. You can work out the wrinkles with the brush.
Jan 30, 2004, 07:31 AM
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dave morris's Avatar
OK will give it another try, Thanks
Jan 30, 2004, 07:43 AM
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vintage1's Avatar
From experience its probably better to use lots of thin strips on a compund curve, than have wrinkles.

Sanding out wronkles runs the risk of having exposed foam, which is a nono for spray painting.

I haven't hye come of wit te dfinbitive guoid to foam finishing, but ussing thinned spackled brushed on first followed by light sanding sems to get a good startimg point. Then its down to glass cloth, brone paper or tissue to add atsrength and tiughen up teh surface. Or even shrink on film, Then its down to accurate filler/rub/base/top coat spraying...
Jan 30, 2004, 08:09 AM
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dave morris's Avatar
I tried sanding some wrinkles out earlier, very carefully so as not to get to the foam, also to help even out the step made by the overlap of two pieces. I was hoping I could use colored tissue to avoid paint, but you can see the overlaps of the multistrips, kinda tribal looking, so maybe I should just go with that theme
Jan 30, 2004, 08:13 AM
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dave morris's Avatar
here is a pic, I really like the tissue over plastic, seem less wrinkles and no worry about overheat or too much pressure causing damage to the underlying foam. BTW the plane is my own design micro bandit.
Jan 30, 2004, 10:02 AM
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Don't bother with the tissue

Hi Dave.

If you have seen the A-10 that Chris G has built for me, you can see the finish he gets on blue foam without using tissue.. He has doped and tissued the balsa skins.

On the big I.C stuff he used to use brown paper, since going electric he doesn't bother.

Seeing your thread I had a word with him.

Chris used 65% pva wood/glue (wall sealer/bonder) 35%water and a few drops of red food dye to show where you have been (it dries clear without the dye) applied with a broad soft brush.

The first coat take 6 hours to dry then recoat. Micro ball filler where needed.

This sealer will protect the foam from small knocks and scuffs. Overpaint with enamels or car acrylic sprays.

Chris's email for more info -


Feb 26, 2004, 03:28 PM
Watts your motivation
roccobro's Avatar
Dave, have you found what works best for you yet? Just wanted to know for my next foam project.

Feb 26, 2004, 06:52 PM
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Dzlstunter's Avatar
When using tissue, it helps to use a straight edge to tear, NOT CUT the tissue so that the seam edges are not a sharp line. Following with a seam treatment of a watered-down mix of spackling compound (thin enough to be brushable) makes a decent job of it because the spackling can be sanded. Sanding without some kind of filler will result in the fuzzies or sanding through to the underlying surface. Sand outside or in good ventilation, though. The stuff is nasty (sort of like sanding drywall). Good luck, Dzl
Feb 27, 2004, 09:36 AM
ὅπερ ἔδει δεῖξαι
Gerald's Avatar
I like silkspan and white glue over foam rather than tissue. The silkspan shrinks as it dries and gives a smoother surface, as well as conforming better around compound curves.

When I apply it I first brush the thinned glue onto the bare foam then lay on the silkspan in an appropriately sized strip. Then brush over the top of the silkspan with more of the thinned glue to wet it out. Using the brush make your strokes going outward from the center of the piece to smooth out the wrinkles.
Last edited by Gerald; Feb 27, 2004 at 09:39 AM.
Feb 27, 2004, 09:55 AM
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Dzlstunter's Avatar
A slight amendment to my recommendations. I assumed (and you know how that goes...) that you were using silkspan as Gerald noted. Sorry, Dzl

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