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Jun 12, 2013, 11:58 PM
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sbritton's Avatar
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How much weight do you need? That stuff really expands doesn't it?
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Jun 13, 2013, 12:08 AM
Classic jets rule
AIR SALLY's Avatar
i'd say 20 to 30 pounds of weight to press the wood to the foam core ,a thin layer wont expand that much ...just enough to fill in the rough foam finish ,and this method does'nt weigh much either.
Jun 13, 2013, 12:18 AM
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sbritton's Avatar
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Awesome idea...sounds easier than how I was going to do it. I assume it's pretty normal to glass the wing after.

What weight cloth to use and is there a easy technique used to get a smooth finish without the weave and without days and days of fill-sand-fill-sand?

Never tried it, but I was thinking that you could do the normal wet the cloth with finishing epoxy and rollers, maybe cover it with wax paper then put it back into the saddle with the weight again. Thoughts?
Jun 13, 2013, 01:30 AM
Classic jets rule
AIR SALLY's Avatar
glass with .7oz cloth...you'll get voids if you use wax paper .a good finishing resin will flow out pretty good ....but you have to do some sanding nature of the beast .
Jun 17, 2013, 12:51 AM
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sbritton's Avatar
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Starting making progress on the wings. The spar channels are all cut and fit.

I started on the servo boxes and the retracts.

I decided to go with dual servos on the flaps instead of a single servo as in the plans as it would interfere with the battery placement and is just a lot easier to do this way.

The retract box is really solid and light, but I get the feeling I should be putting in a spar the spans the chord of the wing to distribute the load/torque of a bad landing. The box is within a 1/16 of an inch of going through then entire form core so no matter what it will be sandwiched in the sheeted and glassed wing so it will likely be okay.

The plans don't call for it...any words of wisdom?
Jun 17, 2013, 07:43 AM
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jhaywood's Avatar
I would lengthen the two main spars(where the foam is already cut out) to intersect with an inboard rib that is attached to your gear box. Then I would put another rib on the outboard side of the gear box that was attached to the leading edge when installed.
I would think that 1/8" liteply should be more than sufficient since you are bascially just making a box to distribute the loads to more foam and to the wood skins. If you are really worried, you could put a layer of carbon over the top of the gear box and the new ribs to stiffen things up a bit more.
Hindsight being what it is, with a plane with such long legs, I may have considered using BVM style flex plates. This would allow the gear to flex a little, and also break the plates in the even of a hard "arrival". It saves the wing structure from too much damage.
Jun 21, 2013, 03:18 PM
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sbritton's Avatar
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Finally...a wing is born


I did it. I had my doubts that I could take a foam core and make a decent wing, but check that out.

I have the servo bays and the retract mounts all in. I did a couple of spars on the retract box to give it strength across the chord and used CF cloth on the top side of the wing above the retracts to spread it even more.

My Gorilla Glue was bad, so I used some West Systems slow cure epoxy and it worked great.

My next task is to glass it. I have .75oz glass and some west systems epoxy 105 with 209 Extra slow cure hardener. My question is do I need to use any fillers to help hide the weave? I have some west 410 microlite filler I can use.

Also...should I cut out the ailerons and flaps before or after I glass the wing?

Thoughts?
Jun 21, 2013, 04:37 PM
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turbonut's Avatar
I wouldnt add any filler to the resin. fill after with high build primer.try to keep the cloth from looking wet. just a dryish weave..soak any wet spots with toilet paper ..I also dotn think you need extra slow unless its over 95deg where you are doing the layup.slow should be fine. nice lookin wing BTW O and I cut the controls out first then you can cap them off with wood where you need to and glass over all of it when ready.
Latest blog entry: In flight
Jun 21, 2013, 04:46 PM
Classic jets rule
AIR SALLY's Avatar
i like extra slow it allows you to dab up a lot of excess resin ...it's thinner to begain with so it wets out with less resin too
Jun 21, 2013, 05:14 PM
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turbonut's Avatar
Cool ..how much longer is the cure time?...I preheat my slow to thin it out...guess it dont matter as I walk away for 24hrs after the layup..last summer I did have some slow kick after 45 min while still working it ..yea it was 115 in my hanger
Latest blog entry: In flight
Jun 21, 2013, 06:12 PM
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sbritton's Avatar
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Going back-n-forth...anxious to glass, but need to do it right, I decided to cut the surfaces first.

Glad I did, my blade started to drift a bit and didn't get the best cut. Good thing I'm capping them, now I can sand it out straight before glassing.

Thanks you guys for all the help, I wish I a small portion of the skills and talent others around here have.
Jun 21, 2013, 06:48 PM
Suspended Account
That is a nice looking Jet I love it
Jun 21, 2013, 08:09 PM
Do it Right, the first time!
CoolerByTheLake's Avatar
sbritton Very nice job for a first timer. Servo and retract cut outs look good but what about wheel wells?
Jun 21, 2013, 08:17 PM
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sbritton's Avatar
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CoolerByTheLake
sbritton Very nice job for a first timer. Servo and retract cut outs look good but what about wheel wells?
Thanks, fun stuff huh?

I have learned to save the wheel wells until the end so I can make sure I get the AOA correct. If I cut them out now and they are the wrong I'm kind a screwed and end up with other problems.

The nose gear on this plane has almost no spare room so I can't make it longer if I want...and any shorter the nose will drag. So just going to play that one safe.
Jun 21, 2013, 09:13 PM
Do it Right, the first time!
CoolerByTheLake's Avatar
Certainly makes sense, hadn't thought if it that way, and I should have. I'm working on a scratch build , and will have to do the same thing.


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