GWS warbirds - Page 5 - RC Groups
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Jul 14, 2013, 05:15 PM
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semperfi1970's Avatar
Quiz, I doubt that a prop saver would hold a prop on for long with my Corsairs. I use the collet type for most all of my planes. Took the blue Corsair out after installing a new 450 Powerup sport motor and cowl. I started running a APC 10x5 prop just to revert to a GWS 1060 because the motor was rather hot after a 4 minute all out flight. I would have to say that I have had the best luck with 450 motors and GWS 1060 props, APC 9x6 come in a close second. The APC 9x6 has the top end advantage and the 1060 has the power advantage.
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Jul 14, 2013, 06:27 PM
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Yeah, those were my suspicions concerning my Corsair after messing with the prop savers. I'm using the Emax 2215-20 motor, and it puts out about 260 watts, 1200 Kv. In your opinion, is my motor still overkill for a prop saver? Should I stop messing with the prop saver idea, and go directly to the collet style? I am starting to believe that prop savers are primarily successful on slow RPM motors, 800-900kv, like the Slow Stick category. Is that your opinion as well?

Quote:
Originally Posted by semperfi1970
Quiz, I doubt that a prop saver would hold a prop on for long with my Corsairs. I use the collet type for most all of my planes. Took the blue Corsair out after installing a new 450 Powerup sport motor and cowl. I started running a APC 10x5 prop just to revert to a GWS 1060 because the motor was rather hot after a 4 minute all out flight. I would have to say that I have had the best luck with 450 motors and GWS 1060 props, APC 9x6 come in a close second. The APC 9x6 has the top end advantage and the 1060 has the power advantage.
Jul 14, 2013, 07:23 PM
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Just my opinion, but prop savers are a huge pain in the butt and they don't actually save anything. Doesn't matter if you use o-rings, rubber bands, whatever it's difficult to get the prop on correctly and when you bang the ground the prop or the prop "saver" breaks anyways.
Jul 14, 2013, 08:36 PM
Registered User
Nice to know I'm not the only one. This is the first time I've messed with using a prop saver. I've always just used a regular collet adapter in the past. Sounds like they're more trouble than they're worth. And, of course, if they come off in the air, what good would that be?

Quote:
Originally Posted by 61ahs
Just my opinion, but prop savers are a huge pain in the butt and they don't actually save anything. Doesn't matter if you use o-rings, rubber bands, whatever it's difficult to get the prop on correctly and when you bang the ground the prop or the prop "saver" breaks anyways.
Jul 16, 2013, 11:14 AM
Registered User
If you only keep the motor shaft with 1mm or 1.5/32" left on the prop saver, and bind the prop with rubber band properly, you'd then find out that the prop saver works for you. You certainly have to check that if the prop fits the forward end of the prop saver well before binding the prop on, always keep the prop not too tight after putting it on the saver. All these efforts can make the spinning prop go off the saver when hitting something on runway, never try to keep the shaft too long left outside the prop saver, otherwise the prop can not go off the saver.
Jul 17, 2013, 10:20 PM
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We tried a bunch of different prop bushings, and we checked that the prop saver was mounted properly, flat, that there was still a small amount of the motor shaft showing, but not too much, etc...

The problem is, the prop savers are coming off with the model just standing still, when the throttle is increased between zero and 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Maybe it's just that the black rubber ring is too weak. But, of course, that doesn't account for a prop saver coming completely off. That, I determined, occurred because one of the screws holding the prop saver on the shaft was stripped, and couldn't hold the prop saver on.

Solving the problem with the stripped screw will solve one of my issues, but I have a feeling that even when the screws were working properly and holding the prop saver on, the props were still flying off when motors were spun up to a higher rpm.

Quote:
Originally Posted by twn Chen
If you only keep the motor shaft with 1mm or 1.5/32" left on the prop saver, and bind the prop with rubber band properly, you'd then find out that the prop saver works for you. You certainly have to check that if the prop fits the forward end of the prop saver well before binding the prop on, always keep the prop not too tight after putting it on the saver. All these efforts can make the spinning prop go off the saver when hitting something on runway, never try to keep the shaft too long left outside the prop saver, otherwise the prop can not go off the saver.
Last edited by QuizCat; Jul 17, 2013 at 10:29 PM.
Jul 21, 2013, 10:28 PM
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QuizCat,

I agree that props might fly off from prop saver when applying WOT at 4S, or even a motor with higher KV at 3S. I think most Zagi flyers have such experience.
Jul 22, 2013, 12:22 PM
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I try to get motors with threaded shaft so I don't have to worry about loosing prop or prop adapter.
Jul 26, 2013, 07:47 PM
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semperfi1970's Avatar
Its killing me that I fail to find any EPO warbirds other than the P 40 and the Corsair. I may have to resort to the EPS planes and a glass job. Headsuprc got there latest shipment of GWS in and no new warbirds in EPO, Calliberhobby as well. I had to resort to buying a Multiplex dogfighter.
Jul 27, 2013, 08:13 PM
nsg
nsg
Registered User
Light covering, such as Solite, over EPS is actually stronger and weights less than EPO.
Jul 29, 2013, 12:34 PM
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EPP versus EPO


EPO usually looks cooler, but...

Check out the EPP warbirds from Hacker Model Production. They're made in Austria, inexpensive as can be, and they're about as durable as you can get...They seem to have limited distribution in the USA, but they're available.

http://hacker-model.com.au/

They're similiar to the Hobby King EPP ME109 I have, and it may even be made by Hacker for Hobby King. The Hobby King ME109 seems really similiar to the Hacker design.

The ME109 from Hobby King flies great, but the Hacker birds are detailed much better than the Hobby King version I have. I don't think Hacker has any Corsairs in their line of products, but they do have some other war birds that have peaked my interest. I would probably prefer to have the Hacker over the Hobbie King, mostly due to the detailing.

I crashed the GWS Corsair on it's maiden flight. I had a loose linkage on the elevator, and I lost all control. Went into a nose dive in a grassy field. Unfortunately, the Corsair found the one spot in the whole 6 acre field where there wasn't anything but short grass to cushion the blow. Otherwise, I would have sustained less damage to the cowl and motor mount. It's in the shop being refitted with a new motor mount, new cowl, and I'm checking all the linkages out before I put her in the air.

I have what I think is a brilliant idea for landing gear for the GWS. I'm working on it now, just waiting on the parts. I'll share it with you once I have a chance to retrofit it, and make sure everything is going to work out as I planned. It will permit you to easily snap landing gear in place if you want to take off from a hard surface, or you'll be able to remove the gear in about two seconds for a hand launch.

Quote:
Originally Posted by semperfi1970
Its killing me that I fail to find any EPO warbirds other than the P 40 and the Corsair. I may have to resort to the EPS planes and a glass job. Headsuprc got there latest shipment of GWS in and no new warbirds in EPO, Calliberhobby as well. I had to resort to buying a Multiplex dogfighter.
Jul 29, 2013, 06:50 PM
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semperfi1970's Avatar
Quiz, sorry to hear about the Corsair maiden. Sucks when that happens. I was in Walmart the other day and had seen one of the little paint buckets you were talking about. Looks like you may need one Thinking about buying a few GWS P 40's and Corsairs if they do seem to be going out of business. I should buy a few Formosa's as well. Quiz, I use a little Loctite go2 glue on all of my linkages once they are set where I want them. I smear it on and all around the Dubro quick connects after I set the screw. It holds everything in place, being flexable it keeps the screw from backing out under vibration and being on the rods it prevents anything from coming out of adjustment. The nice thing is that it just peels off when need be unlike any other glue.
Jul 29, 2013, 07:27 PM
Registered User
That's good to know about the pealing characteristics of the GO2 Glue. I have some of that in my glue box. I'll keep that in mind. I should have checked it more thoroughly before the maiden flight. I was just eager, but careless...entirely my own fault. But, the Corsair I built is so substantially reinforced that it weathered the crash pretty well. It appears that it'll be easy to repair.

You've hinted at GWS going out of business a couple of times. I hadn't heard that before. Is it pretty certain? I know they cut back on parts sales, and their dealers have been complaining about availability, but I thought that parts were starting to become more available again. I just figured they were cutting back on parts availability so they could sell more kits...as in, they want you to buy a whole kit, or nothing.

I had ordered a blue GWS Slow Stick wing off of Ebay to build my second slow stick using some of the left over parts from the first build. The price was right, but now I know why. I suspect they were selling a factory reject. It is literally twice as thick, and twice as heavy, as the standard wing. It also had some strange dyhedral characteristics that makes it really hard to fly.

I ordered another new slow stick kit from HURC, another red one this time. I figured I'll build a 100% stock setup this time. The first red SS has all the upgrades on it, and it's really heavy. I figured I would build one that is exactly to spec, so that it's really lite, etc...The complete kits are so inexpensive, only $28.00 each. Ordering a whole new Slow Stick kit is almost a cheap as ordering another wing to replace the blue factory reject. Depending on the source, you never know if the wing you're ordering is something they rejected at the factory. So, I just ordered a whole new kit from HURC, knowing that it would be authentic, and not some Chinese Ebay rip off deal.

I would like to build the GWS Spitfire, and the GWS P51. Maybe I should grab 'em if you think they're on the way out. The kits are relatively cheap. Just keep 'em on the shelf, and build them this winter.

Quote:
Originally Posted by semperfi1970
Quiz, sorry to hear about the Corsair maiden. Sucks when that happens. I was in Walmart the other day and had seen one of the little paint buckets you were talking about. Looks like you may need one Thinking about buying a few GWS P 40's and Corsairs if they do seem to be going out of business. I should buy a few Formosa's as well. Quiz, I use a little Loctite go2 glue on all of my linkages once they are set where I want them. I smear it on and all around the Dubro quick connects after I set the screw. It holds everything in place, being flexable it keeps the screw from backing out under vibration and being on the rods it prevents anything from coming out of adjustment. The nice thing is that it just peels off when need be unlike any other glue.
Last edited by QuizCat; Jul 29, 2013 at 10:00 PM.
Jul 30, 2013, 03:17 PM
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semperfi1970's Avatar
Better get to buying up kits Quiz, I'm all over it like a fat kid on a cupcake.
Aug 01, 2013, 09:26 AM
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I bought a few of the remaining GWS models I wanted in the meantime. I want to build another Corsair that is much lighter than the one I already built, so I got another one of those, and even a second one for a future spare...the kits are really cheap, especially the Corsair kits ($35.00). Can't really go wrong on the price of any of the GWS kits. I also got a P51 in Silver (HURC was all out of white only), and a GWS40 (in White only).

I'll put them on the shelf, and build them this winter. With what I now know, I believe my future building acumen on GWS planes will be pretty good, having built two Slow Sticks, and the Corsair. Of course, if they're not going to be available, that might be moot.

I thought I might like to have one of the EStarters too. But, HURC is all out of EStarters in white. They have the RTF version, but it's kind of pricey ($125.00).

By the way, the NTSB, (Newbie Totally Stupid Blunder) determined the cause of the #1 GWS Corsair crash.

I am using the easy connectors at the push rod servo arms. I locked them down with locktite. Well, I believe that they didn't flex like they should because, due to my being a newbie builder, I didn't realize the easy connectors should freely rotate on the servo arm.

I should not have torqued down the nut, or put so much locktite as to get it on anything but the exposed nut thread that holds the easy connector on the servo arm. I had them locked down with locktite to such an extent that I believe the push rods didn't have free movement like they should, in addtion to my also finding the elevator rod loose under an easy connector screw. I believe the push rods became hung up in the air, causing the crash. I have since switched to HURC Emax Easy Connector as well, and it appears to be a more secure system, using allen screws, rather than the phillips screw heads that were on a different brand that I had used prior to the crash.

I repositioned everything last night, and now I have free movement at the easy connectors, push rods, and noticeably more deflection of the control surfaces as a result.

Knowing what I know now about the binding up of the push rods, it makes perfect sense that I didn't seem to have control in the air on the maiden flight.

Just painting the new cowl this week, and I'm otherwise ready to put it in the air again pretty soon. I'll keep reporting back...
Last edited by QuizCat; Aug 01, 2013 at 11:10 AM.


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