KV Jig for CL/SPW Antennas - RC Groups
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May 29, 2013, 07:34 PM
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Kataventos's Avatar
New Product

KV Jig for CL/SPW Antennas


Hi all,

this Jig for both CL/SPW antennas was posted before on Alex Clover leaf topic with heīs blessing and permission.

Some of you are already receiving the Jig so, I decided to edit this first post with information useful to use it like I use. Of course that some of you will use it on your own way and there is already some ideas from users in order to extend itīs life thru time always good looking just for applying a thin layer of CA on the molding traces like for example the half moon.

I will make this tutorial in 2 times editing the second post as well.
The following pictures reproduce the way I imagined it to work and for me is just fine, although I think that being a DIYīr project can always get better with everyoneīs contribution.

I used the 5.8Ghz to make this tutorial not just for being the frequency I use but also because this is the most difficult frequency to make antennas due to itīs size.

Truly hope you enjoy it.




NOTE: First Jigīs went out without the Blu-Tack (Bostik) and I am sorry for not sending them with it but it have an explanation. I just figured it some time after start sending them, sorry for that, I am sure it is easy to get anywhere!









This is whatīs in the package.



Cutting your wire, it should be straight first.




Itīs extremely important for it to be exactly the correct length for the frequency you ordered so, you need your precision tool for it.





Now adjusting the quarter wavelength and the 90š first bends:





Here you check the elements quarter wavelength, on the second picture I show a wrongly made element, do not attempt to use it, make another if you get something like the above (second picture).







Now for molding the element you should do this during some time so the wire getīs soft. What I do is to press with one finger, pull and push it so the curve can be perfect almost until the end without putting the wire fully inside the Jig. Then I do exactly the same starting on the other side as follows.








For tiny adjustments you can always use the old method.




Here you can confirm the parable, to get the element out just press the quarter wavelengths against each other and lift, a perfect element should almost fall inside without any strength as follows.



Small adjustment on the 105š needed above and you are ready to go.





After all elements done we are going to the second part using the Blu-Tack on the Jig guide lines as well as use it secure the elements.


Have fun and please fly safe.
Thanks, love you all.

-KV
Last edited by Kataventos; Jun 24, 2013 at 10:41 PM. Reason: Edited to be the Jig tutorial_Part 1
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Jun 01, 2013, 05:39 PM
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Kataventos's Avatar
This is the second part of the tutorial and probably will go against some of the following questionīs of some friends that are with me since day 1.
I decided to put the tutorial on the first and second post to be more easy to catch so, the following photos are nothing but my way to work with this Jig.

The antennas can be soldered to the cable using the Jig but, as you see here I prefer to use this way on 5.8Ghz antennas because it is the more accurate way I found to not disturb any angle or create tension on the antenna elements.

You can see together with the pics my comments but if you have any question feel free to ask because I will be very glad to answer it.



The Blu-Tack is to full fill the traces along the 5.8Ghz quarter wavelength, on other frequencies like 1280Mhz you can just use it on three points along each trace or guide line;



You can see that it can secure the element just fine;



Adjust them with accuracy on the center;



After they are all accurate, carefully put the 45š supports;



Use the best flux you can get, it is very important so you can solder the elements without many heat. Actually, I just keep my soldering iron there (without touching the elements) for 1.5sec



The temperature is high enough with a 35w soldering iron. What I do is to put a tiny piece of solder on the point of the iron and only the solder will touch the elements, keep the iron steady at the middle for 1 sec or so...





The result is a very secure solder;



Now, as I said before I take my antenna out right after this step because I found a better way for precision soldering;





As you can see here there is a tiny space to work, but this is what will make your antenna rock with a "1" for VSWR



I use RG316 cable since is the best on many things such as itīs thermal characteristics, very easy to solder (remember the flux anyway).




I cut here 2mm and strip it;



Now I cut 0.5mm be carefull on the next step with small "hairs", at the end you will have probably less then .5mm between them prepare you multimeter for continuity to check before start to solder;









Here I start by solder the base, mainly make it a tough base to receive the elements later on;



Adjusting the center pole to fit the antenna without disturbing the previous work will probably get you close to .3 or .4mm between base and center pole;



So, this is how I solder the cable upside down... first all unsoldered elements on the "base" and at the end the center pole by aplying just a bit of heat, remember that the wire/cable already have solder from previous preparing part;



Because the elements have no tension at all, it is a really easy and relaxed job;



I forgot to take a pic and talk about the heat shrink tube I use... it have to be on the wire before anything, now I bring it up to use like a glass of an spiritual drink





Above you can see the heat shrink as I said...



I know it is impossible to make them wrong with the Jig but, I always do this... upside down



Now... the above and following pics are what I call "the lamp" ... because it is really like a lamp in aspect and if you do as I you will not have any air inside, thatīs why besides, this way it getīs really solid and powerful.





So, I do this by not using a hot glue gun, instead I heat the glue on a metal plate with my heat gun until the glue is liquid... then with a screw driver I put the glue on the antenna keeping it hot and (with the heat gun) while circling the antenna getting the gun away slowly until it getīs solid This is the only way to full fill every space without any air (be careful with the amount of heat during this process, this is not easy to control, go slowly until you feel it nice;



Normaly I paint them gold 24K because I like the wire original color, the best was if we didīnt have to paint it at all but we must, this kind of wire get oxidized very fast so

Please enjoy your new Jig and antennas with awesome flights, thank you for your trust and orders.

Love you all.
Fly safe.
Cheers,
-KV
Last edited by Kataventos; Jun 26, 2013 at 05:57 AM. Reason: Tutorial Part 2
Jun 01, 2013, 10:28 PM
Registered User
Brilliant idea KV!

Pm sent
Jun 02, 2013, 06:38 AM
HGT
HGT
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Jun 04, 2013, 05:51 AM
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TNboy's Avatar
It's beautiful.

I bought one.
Is there any pictures of the soldering process ?
Many Thanks
Jun 04, 2013, 06:14 AM
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Kataventos's Avatar
Hi Marco,

I will do better and record a video ASAP, I am short with time (end of school year) and send the orders is first priority.
Let me just cut to send them to you all, I did not expected so many friends appreciating the work and ordering in such a short time (some did not posted here), love you all.

Have fun and fly safe.
Kind Regards,
-KV

www.kvteamosd.com (Open source OSD Teamīs repository)
www.kataventos.com (Redirecting to Youtube ATM)
Jun 08, 2013, 07:51 PM
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Kataventos's Avatar
1280Mhz Jig





















NOTE: All this pics were moved from first post.
__________________________________________________ _______________


Hi,

all orders made until yesterday will be sent on Tuesday because Monday is a holiday here. I think the shipment will be very fast.

I have made some modifications to the 1280Mhz Jig because most of you will use 1mm welding wire, the Jig have a 1.5mm free space to mold and verify your elements, of course it will work fine with .8 or .9, I have tested it with 1mm and it is a lot better, also removed some weight to all removable parts, they look cooler now
All parts will fit right away because I have tested and massaged them all so you can mount and start doing the antennas immediately. Just remember to never use glue, mostly on the 1280Mhz jig because you need to take the parts out to adjust and cut your elements before soldering, not so important on the 5.8Ghz, but I recommend the same, no glue

Finished work at this moment, dark pictures because is late night...



How they are packaged



Hope you all enjoy and have lotīs of fun making your own antennas.

Cheers,
-KV
Last edited by Kataventos; Jun 22, 2013 at 04:38 PM. Reason: Moved the pics from first post of 1280Mhz Jig
Jun 09, 2013, 07:45 PM
Registered User
Kataventos's Avatar
Hi,

forgot to say that I invented/figured another thing that will be on bottom of the main plate inside the package as well ...

Probably questions will follow on how to use it correctly as soon as you look at it...

Cheers,
-KV
Jun 09, 2013, 09:30 PM
Engineer for Christ
IBCrazy's Avatar
You should make a wire straightening jig while you are at it. This will make it easier to bend the wires for the DIY folks. If you're like me, you can't just build one... you need 4 or 5 before you are happy. I can send you photos of my CNC wire bending machine to give you some ideas.

Here's what I'm thinking:

Make a zig-zag cut through a piece of wood. Insert the wire in the pattern, then put a cover over it so it won't slide out. When the wire is pulled through, the zig-zag should relax the tension on the wire and it will come out straight.

-Alex
Jun 09, 2013, 11:17 PM
┌∩┐(⋟﹏⋞)┌∩┐ The FAA
nightfox7's Avatar
Looking great KV! Can't wait to get mine!
Jun 10, 2013, 07:04 AM
Registered User
Kataventos's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by IBCrazy
You should make a wire straightening jig while you are at it. This will make it easier to bend the wires for the DIY folks. If you're like me, you can't just build one... you need 4 or 5 before you are happy. I can send you photos of my CNC wire bending machine to give you some ideas.

Here's what I'm thinking:

Make a zig-zag cut through a piece of wood. Insert the wire in the pattern, then put a cover over it so it won't slide out. When the wire is pulled through, the zig-zag should relax the tension on the wire and it will come out straight.
-Alex
Hi Alex,

thank you so much for you enormous kindness and help.
Yes that is actually a very nice idea never thought about it but I could immediately imagine it working while seeing your message! the problem is that it cannot be done on this kind of material I use

But, I am already thinking and experimenting on a new molding form for a specific density wire like for example Welding W. 1mm. This will avoid DIYīr from even use theyīr hands to fine tune it, the wire should come out ready to be confirmed and soldered, (almost impossible on 5.8Ghz but it will be awesome on all other frequencies).

-KV
Jun 11, 2013, 03:54 PM
Engineer for Christ
IBCrazy's Avatar
^I can send you photos of my new CNC wire bender (my girlfriend named it "Chompy"). It's a hack job (I built it in my garage from a bunch of Mig Welder parts), but it gets the wire perfectly straight and the perfect length every time. You can then just run out a bunch of wire and send it with your jig already cut to the correct length.

-Alex
Jun 11, 2013, 06:48 PM
Registered User
Kataventos's Avatar
Hi Alex,

yes please, I would like to see your work on the wire bender machine "Chompy"
You are a master not only on your work but also on your kindness. I feel honored and blessed to have your attention and friendship, thank you.

At the beginning I thought about sending the wire together with the Jig but the problem is with the weight of the package and itīs price... Inside my small country is doable but most of the orders are from outside, and then I thought that it is very easy to get anywhere so I put the idea aside
Will be waiting for your email.

-KV
Jun 11, 2013, 09:39 PM
User registered
TNboy's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by IBCrazy
^I can send you photos of my new CNC wire bender (my girlfriend named it "Chompy"). It's a hack job (I built it in my garage from a bunch of Mig Welder parts), but it gets the wire perfectly straight and the perfect length every time. You can then just run out a bunch of wire and send it with your jig already cut to the correct length.

-Alex
Out of interest I would also like to see what chompy looks like..
Jun 11, 2013, 11:54 PM
Engineer for Christ
IBCrazy's Avatar

Chompy


This is Chompy - My CNC wire bending machine. It is made from a bunch of robotic parts, welding machine parts, an Arduino, and a custom-made circuit board. The whole thing was welded up in my garage and my girlfriend has been asking me when she can paint it.

Here's how it works:

The motor is a robotic gear motor from Pololu. It has a built-in rotary encoder on it. The Arduino reads the encoder and translates the rotation into a linear measurement which measures each wire peice.

The wire passes through a set of bearings which straightens the wire. These are adjustable to adjust for different wire sizes. It is the sent out a nozzle which is nothing more than two MIG welder nozzles screwed into two nuts I welded together.

Once the wire length is out and measured, the bend servo comes up and makes a bend. From there the wire moves along for the arc and the servo bumps it along to make it an arc shaped bend. Since the welder nozzle wears fast, there is a rotary switch that I use to slightly alter the program to adjust for this wear.

After the part is complete, it moves to the cutting phase which is a set of wire cutters with a giant scale servo that pulls it together.

There is a little more to this in getting the bends right and cutting the wire, but you get the idea.

-Alex


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