|Weight:||86 oz. Flying Weight|
|Servos:||6 x 9g, 3 x 17g|
|Retracts:||Servoless electric retracts|
|Receiver:||Spektrum 7 channel|
|Battery:||14.8 4S 2200mAh 25C pack (2600mAh recommended)|
|Motor:||4250 KV 540 Brushless Outrunner|
|ESC:||65A ESC 5A SBEC|
|Available From:||Banana Hobby|
When I got the opportunity to review the 1400mm FMS Corsair V2 for E-Zone I happily accepted the assignment. The Corsair is one of my favorite fighter planes from World War II thanks to the gull wings, interesting flaps and dark blue color. The plane is a true ARF with few parts to assemble so the build should be quick. The plane has some nice features that include retractable main wheels with synchronized landing gear doors. It has both navigation lights and landing lights, and it's simple to not plug in their extension wires. It comes with two nicely detailed bombs that slide into place and slide out so I can fly with or without them. There are four missiles per wing that glue into a mounting board that installs or removes with one screw so I again have the option of flying with or without the missiles under the wing. It comes with a nice looking dashboard and a pilot installed in the cockpit. I like the decal details on the propellers and it comes with one spare propeller blade. The dihedral on the wing is a little less than on the real plane; the wing tips should be a bit higher for true scale. As large as the propellers are on this model they are smaller than the scale size would be, but I easily accept a trade off on the propeller as that is often done for a good flying plane. She is a good looking plane so lets get the assembly completed.
The first prototype was delivered to the U.S. Navy in 1940 and the final delivery was to the French in 1953. This made it the longest production run of any piston-engined fighter in U.S. History from 1942-1953. It was flown by both the U.S. Navy and the Marine corps as well as by several foreign nations. The F4U incorporated the largest engine available at the time: the 2,000 horse power 18-cylinder Pratt & Whitney Double Wasp Radial and that powered a 13 foot 4" three blade prop initially. To provide clearance for this large propeller they solution was the inverted gull wing that gave the Corsair its distinctive look and one of its nick names: "The Bent Wing Bird." Allied World War II sources claim the Japanese gave it a very different nick name: "Whistling Death" but Japanese sources said they did not. The plane was ultimately made in 16 different models and the F4U-4 modeled here. The F4U-4 was the last variant to see action in World War II with deliveries starting late in 1944 and the propeller was changed to the four blade type seen on this model. Its maximum speed was increased to 448 miles per hour. The plane was flown from both land bases and aircraft carriers. With an 11:1 kill ratio in WWII the Corsair was obviously an outstanding fighter plane. But it also proved to be an excellent fighter-bomber and served in ground support in WWII and the Korean Conflict.
One of my friends growing up owes his existence (according to his dad) to Corsairs in close support in North Korea. His father credited the Corsairs with saving his life by bombing the Chinese that were attacking in mass. The Corsairs hit them killing many and driving back the rest allowing him and his fellow Marines to retreat to safety. My friend was conceived after his dad got back to Minnesota from that conflict. A current flying buddy served on a carrier off of Korea from which the Corsairs took off to make their attacks. The Corsair is fondly remembered by many pilots and by many ground Marines who saw it in close support of their actions.
The Kit Contains
BANANA HOBBY PROMOTED FEATURES
The box said that the plane could be assembled in 45 minutes. I didn't try to make that time mark as I stopped and took pictures for this review and made a few notes for items to discuss in this review. I can confirm that the assembly can easily be done in an evening and that includes programming my computerized transmitter for flying the Corsair and adjusting the control rods for the control surfaces to be in the neutral position.
The first step for both the rudder and the elevator was mounting the supplied control horns. One was mounted to the rudder on the port side and two control horns were mounted for the split elevators. Each control horn used two screws and extra screws were supplied. The horizontal stabilizer was fitted to the fuselage with a molded block on the bottom that fit a molded space in the fuselage. This assured that the horizontal stabilizer with the elevators was in proper alignment and angle. It was secured to the fuselage with two bolts through the stabilizer into the fuselage from above. The vertical stabilizer/rudder fit over the horizontal stabilizer with a foam nose tucking into the top back of the fuselage and a foam block fitting through the center of the horizontal stabilizer and into the fuselage. It was secured in place with the foam nose tucked into the fuselage and a screw through the bottom of the fuselage up into the foam block that went through the horizontal stabilizer. The tail assembly was quick and easy. I connected the control rods to the control horns later as discussed in the radio assembly section below.
The wing came in two halves with aileron and flap hardware in small labeled bags. I secured the flap control horns to the flaps on each wing half and then installed the aileron control horns. Again each control horn took two screws and extra screws were supplied. I then combined the two wing halves to make a one piece wing. I slid the two short carbon fiber rods into one wing side and then slid the other wing half onto the control rods. Two securing plates were supplied and they secure the two sides together. The instructions call for installing them later but I fit them into the bottom of the wings at this point to give me a one piece wing to work with. I did no gluing so I can take my wing apart for storage or transportation if needed. However, I plan to keep the wing together as a one piece wing. The wing is attached to the fuselage with a foam block fitting into a space in the front of the wing saddle. It is further secured with four long screws with two in front and two in back and these go through the wing joiners discussed above and are screwed into the fuselage. More on this below.
I received no radio or flight pack battery for this review so I decided to use my JR 11X transmitter with a seven channel full range Spektrum receiver for the Corsair. I connected the ESC to the receiver and bound the receiver to my transmitter. All servo wires and servo extension wires were included in the kit and were nicely labeled to make connecting the servos and landing gear properly to the receiver easy to do. The wire arrangement has changed slightly from that shown in the instruction manual as relates to the LEDs but it is taken care of by just plugging the labeled wires into the proper position on the receiver.
I plugged the aileron extension set with four wires into my aileron connectors and LED connectors and the flap extension wire went into channel six and the landing gear sequencer into channel five. The sequencer has two wires for each wing half and they are marked B & C. B goes into the landing gear and C plugs into C from the wing for the doors. This way the doors open and the gear then comes down and in reverse the gear goes up and then the doors close. The wires for the flaps and the wires for the ailerons. I turned on my transmitter and plugged in the flight battery. The landing gear sequenced, the aileron and flap servo control horns came out to their pre-set locations from the wing. I wiggled the sticks and checked that everything was working in the proper direction. I had to reverse a number of the throws with my transmitter but that will depend on your radio system and how it is set up.
The following video demonstrates the landing gear and sequencer with the doors.
|FMS 1400mm Corsair landing gear demonstrated (1 min 18 sec)|
With all of the wing channels working properly I turned the radio off and connected the aileron servos to the ailerons with their short connector wires and then repeated the process with the flap servos and the flaps flap. the flaps come in three sections per wing half and the outer flap panel on each side is connected to the flap servo. the middle and inner flap section have a plastic slide piece in them that help pull them down and lift them back up when the outer flap panel is moved by the servo. I had a tiny bit of drop on the right wing on the inner most flap panel but it flew up by itself when the prop was blowing air over the wing and was in the neutral position. When activated down it stayed down along with the middle and outer sections on each wing. The very tiny bit of droop that I noticed on the right inner wing panel was not a problem and had no effect on flight. Most people have not even noticed it it is so slight. I turned on the radio and checked and made some minor adjustments on the computer with the trim to remove some hum from the flaps. I disconnected all of the wing wires from the receiver's extension wires.
I next connected the elevator and rudder wires into the receiver and made sure the servos were centered and attached and adjusted the control rods to the control horns so that the elevators and rudder were properly centered. When I moved the rudder control I was surprised to see the tail wheel move as well. I was surprised because I had read in the instruction manual about how to connect the tail wheel to the servo per page 6 of the instructions. I was very happy to see that I didn't need to remove the tail wheel to connect it to the servo and that it was ready to operate from the get go. The tail wheel is fixed in place and does not retract.
The Corsair includes a four blade propeller and hub along with one replacement blade. Each blade is aligned with a plastic pin and a molded rim for the base of the propeller mount. With all four blades in position I placed the front of the hub over the blades and held it together with one hand and firmly screwed in one bolt through each blade into a nut I placed in the back of the hub. I tightened them up and and then added a drop of temporary Locktite to each nut/bolt. The propeller assembly was ready to install.
The propeller mount slides onto the motor shaft and fits in place towards the back of the shaft. The propeller hub slides onto that and the large blue hub was hand screwed on after the propeller hub was in place and was manually tightened to secure the propeller hub in place.
As discussed above I installed the wing onto the fuselage. I carefully guided all of the servo and landing gear radio wires into the open wing saddle on the bottom of the fuselage and the foam block on the front of the wing into the space for it in the front of the wing saddle. The wing itself was secured in place with two bolts in the back of the wing and extra bolts were supplied. There were two longer bolts to secure the front of the wing but they did not initially line up properly with their mounts in the fuselage. I made some marks in the fuselage where the bolts were hitting and took the wing off. With the wing off I ran the bolts down the holes and pulled on the bolts in the direction they need to go to line up with their mounts in the fuselage. In doing this I expanded the holes in the top about 1/16th of an inch forward It took a couple of tries but I was able to get all four bolts aligned to properly mount the wing to the fuselage. I can tell you that the wing would have stayed in place with just the foam block in the space for it in front of the saddle and the two rear bolts as I have a number of planes with that setup. But I felt it best to use the four bolts recommended. There was an extra for each of the front and rear mounting wing bolts.
I connected the servo extension wires from the receiver to the matching servo, landing gear wires and LED wires from the wing. I again tested all functions and everything was good to go.
The kit comes with two very nice looking Drop Tanks and eight missiles. I was looking forward to flying my plane with them but the instructions kept saying: "For an aerobatic plane do not install the bombs or oil (gas) tanks." The good news is that they can easily be installed and removed from the plane so you can decide mission by mission whether you want them on or not. The drop tanks slide onto racks built into the bottom of the wing and they also slide off. It takes some effort to slide them on and off and that friction holds them in place in flight. The rockets mount four to a side and they have little pads with the spaces for the rocket mounts molded into them. I glued the rockets into the pads but only after I painted the nose of each missile yellow to add my own touch to my plane. The pads replace two flat panels that came mounted into the wing and those panels were secured in the wing with one screw each. The rocket pads fit into the two molded spaces in the wing with one screw per panel locking them in place and each side. There is both a right and a left pad and rocket pad. It is easy to switch between going with and without rockets. FYI: The plane will do aerobatics with a payload but it does better rolls without the drop tanks and rockets and is faster flying without their drag. Their position and light weight does not noticeably effect the C/G.
As mentioned in the introduction to me most of us this FMS 1400mm Corsair model looks very accurate and every bit of the warbird I picture from the movie clips and still pictures of the full size Corsair in action. Details include a good looking pilot, three antenna on the fuselage and a speed tube that attaches to the outer bottom of the port wing. The retracts work in a scale like fashion and the props have decals and look very nice as well. There is even a control panel on the inside of the cockpit but I didn't check it for accuracy. Then there are the navigation lights and landing lights that can be plugged in or left off and disconnected depending on your choice. The overall appearance is very good, although there are a few details that are not quite scale and let me briefly cover a couple of differences that I noticed. The inverted Corsair gull wing looks good at first glance. It was designed to get the fuselage higher to allow proper ground clearance of the large propeller. The wing goes down and then up to add dihedral to the wings. The dihedral is a little low. The wing tips on the full size plane were approximately the same height as the center of the hub for the propeller. On this model the wing tips don't make it up that high. The four bladed propeller is big on the model yet a fully scale propeller would be even larger. Propeller size is often changed to improve the performance of the model and I recognize that and feel this is a very appropriate looking propeller. These deviations from the full scale Corsair are why I call the FMS model "Stand Off Scale." For the majority of us RC pilots these deviations are something we can easily live with and many pilots have not even notice them at my local flying fields. While I like a plane to look as scale as possible I am personally more concerned with how she flies. While I am getting a bit ahead of myself; the fun of flying this plane makes her a winner for me. In the air she looks very scale and can perform scale aerobatics. I don't notice either of the two minor discrepancies I just mentioned when the plane is flying and they don't lessen my enjoyment of this model at all. I probably wouldn't have paid them any attention if I wasn't writing a review and I like to be complete when possible.
As shown in the picture below I can fit the plane into our Prius fully assembled and ready to fly. If flying for a couple days in a row it is nice to take it out to the field ready to fly. When not flying it I plane to store it with the wing off. I plane to leave the receiver attached to the wing and fully connected to the ailerons, flaps, LED and landing gear. To set up at the field I just need to attach the wing to the fuselage with four screws and plug in the throttle, rudder and elevator. Much easier then connecting the more numerous wires from the wing.
The recommended C/G location is 110 mm (4.3") back from the leading edge of the wing with the landing gear in the down position. I was able to balance using a 4-cell 2200mAh battery pack. I have used use two ROC 30C battery packs and a Genesis 65C pack and a 25C pack. They all have done a great job of powering the plane. I started with the recommend 4 minute flight and I mix up my speed. I found I had a lot of battery left and slowly lengthened my flights to 5 then 6 and finally 8 minute flights. I time it now for eight minute flights and I still have a lot of reserve power when I start with a fully charged battery pack. Since flying styles vary and some pilots only fly full speed I recommend starting at four minutes and checking the battery pack voltage after each flight. On all the packs I have had them secured all the way forward and the plane has balanced at the recommended location. During the test flights the recommended location has proven to be a very acceptable balance point. (The recommended battery is a 4-cell 25C 2600mAh battery pack. Positioned where I have placed mine the plane would be slightly more nose heavy. I would have used that size battery pack if I had one but I am happy using my 2200mAh packs that I had on hand.)
Control Throws: Elevator: High rate 1 inch up and down, Low rate .6 inches up and down Rudder: High rate 0.98 inch left and right, Low rate .8 inch left and right Ailerons: High rate 1.1 inch up and down, Low rate .7 inch up and down Flaps: Fully up, Mid .9 inch down, Full down 1.8 inch down
Almost all my flying has been with full rates.
The plane has six channel control with ailerons, rudder, elevator, throttle, flaps and working landing gear with working doors. Thus at least a six channel transmitter and receiver should be used. As mentioned above I am using an 11 channel transmitter and a seven channel receiver with one channel not being used. I deployed flaps for the first time at altitude (recovery space) and my Corsair slowed down and ballooned up. I recommend using mix with down elevator with the flaps. This is a warbird and I flew her the first time without the drop tanks or rockets attached. I found her to be a very nice handling plane. Turns can be made with just ailerons and elevator but they are definitely smoother adding rudder which I mix in manually with the left stick. Keep the speed up! I mix up the speed and fly from about 60% throttle to full throttle. The full throttle was impressive for me with a nice dive down to the deck and a pass in front of us on the runway. First flight was without tanks and rockets and she did a very smooth aileron roll. Later flights with the tanks and rockets the roll was visibly not as crisp and the speed was reduced. The tanks and rockets require more throttle to fly as fast as I was flying slowly and the top speed was reduced as well. The instruction manual was correct that she flies better without the attachments. The video below was made with the tanks and rockets because she looks cooler in my opinion with them attached. With the attachments and the wheels down she is really dirty and I found myself willing her to speed up and added a little throttle. Dropping the wheels makes a noticeable change in her speed. It was like hitting a small air brake. It makes the experience of flying her even more fun in my opinion. I have flown with just the rockets and no tanks and as one would expect the speed and handling is improved but the top speed still looks somewhat slower. Sorry, no speed gun for actual recorded differences. I think I will be flying most of my flights with the rockets but without the tanks on board. Having the ability to choose flight by flight is nice as they slide on and off.
Takeoffs and landings should be made into the wind. During most of the test flights the wind has been a cross wind from the Northwest on a runway that faces north. This will be seen on the video below where the planes turns to head into the wind and takes off diagonally in relationship to the runway but straight into the wind that day. On landings the rudder has proven effective in keeping her facing relatively straight down the runway despite the cross wind. I have nothing remarkable to report in regards to takeoffs and landings. Get speed up before giving her up elevator and keep some speed when landing. The landing on the video by my friend Chris is a bit slower than any of my landings but he had a little more wind than I have had on my flights so far.
If this is your first big warbird: If I lost power during a flight I would keep up speed rather than try to glide her home, especially with the tanks and rockets on her. I would never intentionally try and land her with power off.
As discussed above if you are really seeking performance in aerobatics fly her without the tanks and weapons as she flies faster and smoother without them. I could feel the difference with the tanks and rockets attached and lowering the wheels was like popping a small speed break. I really like feeling a difference as the gear goes down or up! She will do a good loop and roll with the attachments but she does a better roll without them. I found flying her and then peeling off to the left into a diving turned look just like the ones I have seen on films of Corsairs flying in formation. I have increased the rudder throw and added exponential during the testing stage for the ailerons elevator and rudder. I needed more rudder throw to fly the half pipes I enjoy. She does a very nice split S that looks very sweet to me as well. Diving down to the deck and a high speed pass down the runway is a real attention grabber and a lot of fun. Inverted flying is definitely better without the attachments!! She handles well and performs as nice as I could want as a warbird. Not nearly as difficult to fly as some warbirds I have owned that needed almost constant concentration. FMS has done a good job in making this a nice flying model.
NO! She is an easy plane to assemble as she is a true ARF, but she is not a beginner trainer. She is for an intermediate or better pilot. She is not hard to fly but the pilot should really know how to fly before flying a Corsair.
|FMS 1400mm Corsair from Banana Hobby Flight Demonstration (3 min 4 sec)|
The Banana Hobby 1400mm FMS Corsair is a winner! She is quick and easy to assemble. Assembly at the field requires just four bolts and plugging in three wires to the receiver as discussed above. As to how she looks I think the pictures tell the story better than I can with words. My wife even thought she looked like the real plane in a couple of my pictures and she is not into our hobby. If you want a nice flying, good looking warbird I give this Corsair my full recommendation! She flies well on a 4-cell 2200 mAh 25C battery (2600 mAh recommended) so the battery pack doesn't break the bank and still the power and the flight time are good with mixed speed flying. I keep my flights to between five and eight minutes. The more full speed flying the shorter my flight times. I am very happy with this plane and a lot of the guys at the field have volunteered to take her off my hands. Sorry guys, she is a keeper.
During this review I used three different brands of batteries and found all of the to work very well. I had zero brown outs with my Spectrum seven channel receiver during the flights for this review. All delivered good consistent power throughout the length of the flights. The batteries were all 4-cell 2200 mAh packs with Dean connectors and were balanced charged. They were two batteries from ROC with 30C, a Genesis 65C and a Lan Iang? (very tiny print could not read very well) 25C. The last two battery packs were from Banana Hobby. Again I use 2200mAh packs because that is what I had on hand. they balanced the plane being fully forward and worked very well. 25C 2600 mAh packs are actually recommended for use in the Corsair.
I want to thank Banana Hobby for supplying this FMS 1400mm Giant Corsair for review. I want to thank Chris for his assistance in flying the Corsair so I could shoot the in air stills and video and our editor, Angela, for her assistance with this article.Last edited by Angela H; Jul 23, 2013 at 04:24 PM..
I read your post and double checked and the version I reviewed and it had all the "New attributes" listed for version 3. My review was of the version 3 model. I will talk to our editor to see if we can correct that. Banana Hobby currently has the ARF version on sale for $249.90 which is $30.00 less than the list price and that should cover shipping but I don't ship them so I can't be certain. I am grateful to Banana Hobby for supplying the plane for review. Mike Heer
Mike, as usual, you have done a magnificent job on the review. Bravo!
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