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Oct 21, 2014, 02:58 AM
teamwork, do it my way!
Thread OP
Mark,

I hear you on the water cooling thing, I was going to try it on another model, but I abandoned the idea after speaking to a guy who knows his stuff and he said that the copper pip idea was ok, but because there is no reliable contact with the head, it may even make things worse. I researched a kit that someone made for a Zenoah engine with water cooling.....it just got too much and I didn't go further. I think on these gassers, a decent amount of baffled air coming in, with negative pressure behind the engine, is the most efficient way to cool them. I am also going to add some baffles. In my pic above, I am going to close off the lower half of the radiator 'circle' and then look at some baffles in the rear of the scoop to create a negative pressure. The scale exhaust stacks are also useful in creating negative pressure if you drill them out a bit, and open them up. They are like louvres...

I wanted to run the 50cc on a 2-blade break in prop, but I would need a 22x10 to do that, and I think I will have a problem with ground clearance if I do that! The struts on this plane are short, and the fact you can only run a 3.75" wheel means ground clearance starts becoming an issue. As it is, the 20x10 3 blader is going to be close, but it should be ok to run in. I am not going to need full throttle all the time on this plane, so will run it silly rich while breaking in.

Thank you for contributing to the thread, its always useful to have the input of others, especially those with flying examples!

BTW, did you use the stock throttle link setup? I always use a throttle rod, and not a cable. I remove the idle screws from my gassers and control the idle with the trim. You cant do that accurately with a cable, IMO.
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Oct 21, 2014, 04:04 AM
Registered User
Mark Derbyshire's Avatar
I used a golden rod for the throttle with ball links on either end. A throwback from my helicopter flying days. The OS doesn't have the idle screw fitted like normal Walbro carbs so I didn't need to cut it off

One thing that may be worth doing is to strengthen the retract mounts. I overshot onto rough grass once and it ripped the mount out. There was no glue to speak of on the ribs or the ply plate. I reinforced them with epoxy and 6oz cloth

As an extra I also fitted high power LED's to the nav lights and wingtips. They are asking for them as they are already molded in. I used these http://www.technobotsonline.com/7.6m...30-lumens.html for the landing lights - they are bright. I run them off of the 2 cell lipo via a small voltage booster to get the 9V - http://www.technobotsonline.com/polo...9v-output.html

Pololu also make a small Rc switch that I linked into the gear channel to switch the landing lights on and off - http://www.technobotsonline.com/polo...de-mosfet.html

I'm sure these will be available in the UAE

--
Mark
Oct 21, 2014, 05:31 AM
teamwork, do it my way!
Thread OP
Mark,

I am no good at elec-trickery, so I took the easy route and bought these: https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=58321

LOL, for 10bucks, I could afford to launch them into the bin if they suck. The good part is that they are about the same size as the fake lights that are on the wing. Just need to recess them a little. Simple to wire up too. But I suspect yours will work better. I was looking at doing the nav lights as well, but will probably retrofit all lighting once I know how well she flies.

The retract mounting area looks quite strong in mine, but as a matter of course, I will put some epoxy and carbon weave in there anyway. I hope that the landings are not too harsh, and I fly off a tarmac strip so don't need to worry about rough grass etc....
Oct 23, 2014, 01:27 PM
teamwork, do it my way!
Thread OP
Ok, so managed to get some work done on the Tiffy today. Managed to install the pull pulls for the rudder and tail wheel. They run independent lines to the tail wheel and the rudder. Both look to be strong enough.



The servo is using a stock arm, which I am not too concerned with, might see if I can find an alternative to the connectors. Have left a little adjustment as the wires will stretch a little as they bed in.



I don't like the elevator connectors on the surface side. I am going to look for something a little more substantial than whats there in the pic. Elevators are not going to be fun if they fail...



Now to start planning the insides. I will be putting in a 4titude tank of 16 oz (480ml) which will give decent flight times, and will allow space up front. I may even move it over to one side to make room for the throttle servo and flight packs. There is quite a bit of room for all the bits and pieces, but I will probably have the choke as a manual choke since I can remove the top cover so easily. Also allows me to not have any switches and filling points on the outside. Fill it, switch it on, fire it up and put the lid on. Nothing hanging around outside.

Oct 23, 2014, 02:05 PM
Registered User
Mark Derbyshire's Avatar
I post a picture of my internals tomorrow for you. It'll give you an idea. I wouldn't worry about the elevator arms. I drilled holes in the buried bit and slow set epoxied them in. They'll rip the wood out before they come loose.

--
Mark
Oct 23, 2014, 02:33 PM
2 many planes & 2 little time
scootrb4's Avatar
My Hangar9 P47 had a similar top hatch access. I put everything under the hatch. I was able to hide 2 switch/charge ports and the fuel port this way. I did the manual choke rod inside the fuse too. It's the only model I have without external switches and such on it.

Hey that is a sexy looking tail.
Oct 24, 2014, 02:29 AM
teamwork, do it my way!
Thread OP
Mark,

I was thinking of drilling holes in the buried bit as well, but didn't want to weaken/reduce the material already there. I am thinking of getting a set of carbon arms from a 30cc 3D plane and doing the same arrangement as the flap/aileron setup. They are pretty strong as is, but I am pedantic about elevators.

Scoot. I am going to put one of these inside..
http://www.sdshobby.com/mini-servo-s...ec-p-5463.html
I have one in my MXSR, and it works so well. I know they are El Cheapo, but the ignition, UBEC and EVERYTHING is all in one. One switch and EVERYTHING powers up, and you have a built in ignition kill. I like them.
Oct 24, 2014, 08:36 AM
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Mark Derbyshire's Avatar
As promised - my internals. All that space soon fills up!

I also prefer the way the arms are done on the Ail and Flaps and rudder with a ball link fixed between them

--
Mark
Jan 05, 2015, 06:19 AM
teamwork, do it my way!
Thread OP
Ok, so I have done some work on the Tiffy, but have not been posting progress here as I have had work comittments, family over for Xmas and general LIFE just getting in the way. I will take some pics and attach at a later date.

Progress so far includes:
Wings completed, Electron retracts and lights installed in the landing ligh positions. Cheap Turnigy things, but they work OK and have slaved them to the gear. Lights are on when retracts down, lights go off when wheels are retracted.

Engine (55DLE RA ) installed and fired up. Runs ok and will be waay to much power for this plane. I am afraid that the thing will rattle to pieces on the ground, but once it gets up the revs, the vibrations lessen. Without this engine, I wouldn't have been able to turn the 20x10x3 prop, but I am going to run it in on a 20x10x2 until the engine has had some break-in time. I don't break in on the ground, they get flown, a little rich and not thumped.

Cowl is installed, but need to remove to install tubes for tuning. Once the cowl is on, it stays on. I also need to drill and prep the spinners. I have one for the 2 blade and the stock one for 3 blade, when it goes on.

I installed a powerbox and really didn't have enough space for my liking, so I removed the plate behind the tank, made a mounting plate for the PB and rx, and installed them deep down in the cavity. It is VERY difficult to get to, so I have made extensions for all cables, and since it was all tested and checked before, I shouldn't need to get in their again.

Retracts are Electron units and I bought ones that open 100 degrees which is a little too much, but since the units use an over amp to stop, I will put some spacers in to reduct travel by about 5 degrees. Should be fine.

CG will be checked in the next day or so, and then will do final prep for maiden....hopefully this week.

Will get some pics up soon.

I really hope this plane flies
Jan 08, 2015, 09:47 AM
Registered User
TripleW's Avatar
Cathurga,
Love the Typhoon.
Where you source for Black Horse Models? They are hard to find in the States.

Thanks, Walter
Jan 09, 2015, 12:04 AM
teamwork, do it my way!
Thread OP
Hey Walter, I had to get it shipped to me via Germany, at great cost too. I find it odd that BH never reply to mail from their website, and the only people to get back to me from their distribution was Ripmax. They told me they could not ship outside of their distribution area and I wouldn't have paid their price in pounds anyway.

The typhoon is no longer on the BH site either, so I think these are only available at one of their Euro suppliers and then it's gone. Its a very nice model, so pick one up soon if you want it, but be prepared to pay.

Very sad, but also true...
Jan 09, 2015, 08:07 AM
Registered User
TripleW's Avatar
Thanks,
They have a Heinkel 111 that looks good too.
http://blackhorsemodel.com.vn/?product=he-111

I hope we can get some flight pics of yours.
Oct 26, 2015, 01:34 PM
teamwork, do it my way!
Thread OP
Well, its been some time since I last updated this post, and although I have been flying and tinkering with planes, I have not had time to do much with this one. That said, I recently got a bug up my butt about it, and set to work about finishing it off. And, it flies! Nicely too....

First off, I needed to finish the installation of the electrics, and I wanted a Powerbox of some sort in place. I didn't want to spend top dollar on the PowerBox branded stuff, and I have had some good fortune with the El Cheapo ones from SDS, so I bought one of those. Only then did I realise that the space inside this beast, fills up pretty quick. I set about chopping out the original tray, and mounted the powerbox onto a tray, along with the receiver and retract controller. After much manipulation, it went in really low down into the fuse. This was done with an 'install once' approach and everything is now out of site in the bowels of the fuse, and is not coming out until the plane is retired or killed. There is a pic of the lot...



The Rx is under the servos, and all the ail/ele/lights are in an easy attach place, along with a bind plug extension.

The engine is the 55RA which presented a problem with the exhaust, so I tried some silicone tubing until I can get my hands on some of the longer 'tuff stuff' they sell with the engines, originals were not long enough to protrude out of the huge 'chin'. The silicone ones lasted two flights.

I let a mate of mine do the maiden and the follow up 'shakedown' flights and he said it handled pretty well. We had to dial in some down ele with the flaps, and I will have to work the geometry a bit to get more flap travel.

It took off into a windless morning and the take off was pretty uneventful, but it swung out on initial take off which we thought was torque, but it turns out the screw on the rudder arm came off. Could have been disastrous, but we tightened it up before the next flight and after that flight, it was loose again!!! Not good, will be attending to that in some way. I will also need to check all the other servos and tend to them.. I think it is the vibration of that big 55cc 2-banger.

Expo's were dialled in, and all trimming was done. Mate said it was quite a pussycat, and doesn't need more than half throttle to cruise around with. He opened it up on the second flight and the thing SCOOTS along under power. Very quick, and although it is fun to do, I am not a speed freak, so will keep it in check. Landings were uneventful and with a bit more flap, it should slow quite nicely for easy landings.

Now I can get on with the following:
Fit the cannons
Go through all bolts and fittings to make sure they are secure
Drill out the 3 -bladed prop, but will run the engine in with the 2-blade for now.
Fit the wheel/strut pants
Get the lights synched up properly and a few other bits and bobs.

Will try to update more on this. I think this will be a keeper, and since nobody else is going to make a Typhoon of this size, I will have to look after it. I have grown to dislike the covering and may look into getting it glassed and painted when I have the time.

It looks pretty menacing in the sky, they are good looking planes.
Apr 27, 2016, 02:12 PM
improving all the time

Ngh gf38


Hi folks

I just got my Black Horse Hawker typhoon, and i am intending to install the NGH GF38. The instruction do not clearly show the position of the engine.

Is there somebody willing to advise?

Tks
Apr 27, 2016, 03:51 PM
teamwork, do it my way!
Thread OP
I think mine had the lines drawn on the firewall, all you need is a template for the NGH38 and you should be good to go.
I am keen to see what the plane would handle like with a 38cc 4S, mine is way overpowered with the 55 DLE, but I do get to run it with the 3 blades prop. I am thinking of replacing the engine with an OS or Saito 40cc 4S


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