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DJI Flame Wheel F450 and F550 *******OWNERS******* Thread.
When I was building my F550 and F450 I noticed there was no central thread to read through and find info exclusively on these frames.
So this thread is to discuss the Flame Wheel F450 quad-copter and Flame Wheel F550 hexa-copter. I put the 2 in one thread because they are very similar (same arms, same esc’s, same motors, and same Naza controller) and some of the accessories like landing gear, gimbals, and GoPro mounts can be used with either. Here is a video to help you build and set up your DJI F450. I made it as short and to the point (( yet detailed for the beginner)) as I could. It is a little long but it is also like 2 videos in one because I show a full build and then I show how to set up in Naza Assistant. The first 20 minutes is on the build the last 10 is on Naza Assistant software setup. Only about 1 minute is unstable all the rest is from a tripod. It is for the F450 but the F550 is done the same way. Here is a link to Freechips thread for Spektrum radios and his SPM files for Spektrum. he deleted his thread so here is his website instead https://sites.google.com/site/spektr...rogramming-spm Here is a link to my build thread. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1874915 Here's a link to the Naza-M V1 thread. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1536553 Here is a link to the Naza-M V2 thread. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1884389 Here is a link to several good videos for programing Futaba radios. https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...81544&page=908 After you build your multi-rotor and download the Nasa Assistant this is the order to follow. 1 Remove props or secure them in some way!!! With the new E300 props this is easy with the old motors and props I use wooden dowels because I do not want to keep taking off my props every time I do an update or connect the hexa to check something in assistant. 2 Open up Naza Assistant on your computer. click Skip ((You only need to click skip in you are following this order. If you already plugged in the battery in your multi-rotor and connected you USB then you do not have to click skip.)) 3 Plug in your USB to computer then to your LED module on your multi-rotor 4 Then turn on your Transmitter 5 Then plug in your battery on your multi-rotor 6 You should see a steady green light on your LED module and a green light and a blinking blue light at bottom left of Naza Assistant window. Now you can do your TX calibration and set up your GPS xyz, mixer type, receiver type, gains, motor idle speed, cut off type, failsafe, IOC, and voltage 1st and 2nd level. After you update do a basic and advance calibration even if after you hit [Check IMU Status] and it says you do not need to still do it. Then go outside and do compass calibration. Side note: For Spektrum radio binding with DJI Naza. I use Spektrum so that is why I go into more detail on Spektrum. Spektrum. To set Preset Failsafe on the receiver. Power on the receiver with bind plug inserted, once the receiver is blinking remove the bind plug. Place your programmed Failsafe switch (Mix/Hold) switch to Pos.1 (in other words PUT FAILSAFE SWITCH IN FAILSAFE POSITION) and Power on the radio in bind mode. Wait until the lights on receivers stop flashing and wait till your transmitter finishes binding. This will set PRESET failsafe, recommended receiver failsafe type for use with Naza Controller. In order to get this to work you require a receiver with PRESET Failsafe, not all receivers have this. To bind with Telemetry unit TM 1000. The telemetry module is plugged into data/bind spot on the receiver, so to bind the receiver in failsafe mode use a Y harness, connected to the receiver Bind/Date port. One end of the Y harness connect the TM1000 Data Cable, the other end the Bind Plug. Follow the same steps mentioned above. Test to make sure that the Naza Assistant software shows the Flight Mode going to Failsafe position. After programing transmitter, then binding receiver to transmitter turn on transmitter then turn on (quad or hexa) then open up Naza assistant on your computer. Then plug in the mini usb to your computer usb. Now go through all your settings with Naza assistant and test all switches and functions. One thing you will most likely find is that when you try your FMode switch for your flight control of Manual, Attitude, GPS the boxes will not light up blue when flipping in between flight modes. They should! I show this in the video. To fix this go to Servo Setup and sub-trim your gear channel with the FMode switch in the middle on the Atti box in the Nasa assistant. If this one is set then the other 2 (manual,gps) will usually be set also. If they are not use the regular trim to fix them. Now all 3 should light blue when you flip your FMode switch. Make sure you setup your Failsafe and IOC in the Naza assistant also. And put a watt meter in-between your battery and your (quad or hexa) and then calibrate your Naza battery voltage to match your watt meter reading. Then set your low battery setting as you want, so you protect your lipos from over discharge. After you have set up your new radio settings do not forget to set up your altimeter if you have one. To do this turn on your transmitter while holding down the scroll wheel. then go to Telemetry, then scroll down to an empty spot. I used #4. Then select Alt. Then set the hight you want your alarm to sound. and if you want Tone Vibrate or both. Then just hit Back 2 times and you are done. If you want to change something in Telemetry you need to select it (i.e.: Volts) then hit the scroll wheel 2 times then you get into it’s settings. ****As soon as you are done building your F450 or F550 please make yourself familiar with this map!!!**** You might even want to take a quick look at the map before you start your build. https://www.mapbox.com/drone/no-fly/#5/40.044/-98.130 Also some more useful info. "You need to know the wattage or amp draw for your motors at 50% hover and what the maximum rating is as well. (the 50% number will change depending on weight load and props used) So if your using 4 motors that draw 22 watts each at 50% throttle. This would be 88watts draw continuous at hover. I you then divide the watts by the nominal voltage of your pack you get the amp draw of your motors. 88W / 11.1V = 7.9A draw. You then calculate what the battery your looking at can supply continuous. In this case your looking at a 5200 10C 5200mAh / 1000 = 5.2A x 10C = 52A This battery can do 52A continuously. You then do this calculation to see what percentage of this your copter is using. 8A (rounded 7.9 up) amps / 52 amps = 15% So if your copter is hovering at 8A your using 15% of what the battery can do. Not to bad really. Don't go over 30% and your good. But what about when your not at hoover and your using 85% or more on throttle? Lets calculate what would happen if the same motors that use 8A at 50% hover were pushed to 100% use. The motors in my example above would go from 22 watts each to 90 watts each. So the same calculations would give you this. 360W / 11.1V = 32.4A draw at 100% load. 5200mAh / 1000 = 5.2A x 10C = 52A (Same battery) 32 amps / 52 amps = 62% of what the battery can do. Would it work? yes, but this could lead to major voltage sag and hammer the battery. The magic number here is to stay under 25 to 30% of what the battery can do and it will stay happy. (The wires stay cooler as well) What if we do the same calculation with a 30C version of the battery? 360W / 11.1V = 32.4A draw at 100% load. 5200mAh / 1000 = 5.2A x 30C = 156A (30C version) 32 amps / 156 amps = 20% 20% falls under the 25 to 30% of the max load of the battery and it should work just fine!" People do not care how much you know until they know how much you care. Dave |
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Last edited by DWA; Nov 18, 2020 at 03:08 AM.
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NewHello. I am a 55-year old man who recently returned to rc model flying. Thought the quadcopter seemed fun and started with this hobby. First a Blade indoors, then a Gaui 330 and now a Dji F450. Tests also Fpv. The flight is pretty good but I have a little problem. The Quad seems a bit unstable and I can not find the problem. I have a Futaba R2008SB receivers and Futaba T8J transmitter. The Quad nods to periodically when flying. Here is a link to a little piece of film.
Forgive my bad English, but I'm old, Swedish and takes the help of Goggle translation |
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Well my contribution would be that I delivered the wedding ring with a F550
A few weeks back I reconfigured my F550 to a Y6-550 |
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Also, all the people that just spam in here, if you have nothing to contribute you should just get out. We're just here to fly and have fun. Or do we not have a common interest? |
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Jag har kontrollerat så gott det går. Kan inte hitta några glappkontakter. Det är ju lite svårt utan att skrapa bort all krympslang.
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Seriously, are you and TC the same person or something? Is it even possible to talk about any DJI product without rampant fanboyism rearing its ugly head on this forum? This is Apple -vs- Android all over again, except that the Android fans are the loud, obnoxious ones now. Just like the "other side" on this forum. Sadly, people always teeter on the line of what's OK and what isn't, so mods never do anything to clean up topics. Until the post below me, Naza wasn't even mentioned. |
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Du måste ta bort krympslangen, det finns en del skräckexempel på forumet där man ser klart och tydligt hur kass lödningen är. Jag har kraschat två gånger p.g.a. att den tappat kontakt med en pol och motorn lagt av helt. Ta bort krympslangen, inspektera lödningen, ryck på kabeln ganska så hårt för att vara säker på att det är OK. Lödningen ska helst vara solid, gärna med en slät skinande yta. Krympslang går att sätta på igen om du har extra, annars funkar eltejp för stunden.
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Kollade även alla övriga lödningar och kontakter men inget oroväckande. Lite för mycket blåst idag annars hade en provtur för kontroll varit nästa steg. Funderar på att binda fast quaden i nåt eller hålla den ovanför huvudet och köra på halvfart för att ev. kunna lura ut vad som händer. |
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Jag har egentligen inget att klaga på förutom den sporadiska ryckigheten. Har testat både attitude och gps läge, ingen skillnad. Flyger ännu inte mer än ett batteri men får kanske prova med flera i följd och se om det blir någon skillnad ifall grejorna blir lite varmare. Har i alla fall rätt kul än så länge. Det har hänt mycket sedan mitt tidigare modellengagemang på tidigt -70 tal |
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Jo, det har hänt en hel del. Speciellt på de senaste 2 åren faktiskt. Hursomhelst, kan ju vara för att du har för hög gain helt enkelt, prova att sänka ATTI gain samt pitch, roll och yaw något. Den verkar sitta och ändra motorhastighet lite hela tiden, vilket betyder att gains är något för höga. Vet inte varför den rycker till lite då och då, däremot... Jag tror min F550 gjorde så en gång då en propeller började att lossna, men sedan jag bytte till taggbrickor har jag aldrig sett det problemet igen.
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