Battery on/off switch - RC Groups
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Apr 26, 2013, 06:58 AM
Registered User

Battery on/off switch

I am building the Llindberg ChrisCraft Constellation. My question is about an on/off switch. Is a 5 amp switch OK for each Lipo battery? Here are the specs. for my model:
Motors 2 Exceed RC Rocket 2215-920KV
Speed Controls 2 Seaking 25 amp brushless (pt no 07E-C-Seaking-25A
Batteries 2 SKY LIPO 2200mAh 7.4V 20C
Props 2 25mm M4 3 blade Raboesch 1 Right hand 1 Left hand

Each push button switch is mounted in two of the hatches in the front part of the deck. Each hatch is hinged. So when the boat is running the hatches hide the switches. Do I need higher amp switches? What would you recommend?

Don Carlson
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Apr 26, 2013, 07:12 AM
Mahogany Aficionado
Nixblicker's Avatar
How much does your engine draw a max?
Apr 26, 2013, 07:35 AM
Registered User
With the 25 amp ESC it would seem that the potential max could be much higher than the 5 amp switch capacity. Where did you want to install the switch? I think if the power is off to the RX it would shut down the ESC so in effect you would have the cut off you were looking for. Otherwise you are looking at a far heavier duty switch that you would need.
Apr 26, 2013, 12:06 PM
Registered User
CaptCB's Avatar

ON/OFF switch's

Most of my boats run a 5-10 amp mini switch for receiver power, I prefer NOT to use BEC systems. I tend to run 2 main drive batteries in parallel, that way if one fails, I can still run. I tend to use a 30 amp @12V switch on each battery. These act as master switch's, kill one and you can run off the other battery. KILL both, and it shuts down everything! This way if the short is in the ESC, or another component, you can instantly shut it down. I do not like "Magic Smoke".
Last edited by CaptCB; Apr 26, 2013 at 02:24 PM.
Apr 26, 2013, 01:15 PM
Registered User
E-Challenged's Avatar
Look for truck-type heavy duty toggle switches rated at 10 amps or more. Another solution is to use a Deans plug setup to make or break the circuit from battery(s) to the speed control(s) . They are used in large electric powered models instead of arming switches.
There are also versions for parallel and series packs.
Apr 26, 2013, 02:28 PM
Registered User
CaptCB's Avatar
Here is a photo of one of my switch panels. Also note the FUSE holder on the wire going TO the speed control. CB
Apr 27, 2013, 03:33 AM
Mahogany Aficionado
Nixblicker's Avatar
I dont use a switch for the main power. I disconnect the battery if not needed. As my esc can draw 120amp, it would result in very heavy switches.
Apr 27, 2013, 05:58 AM
Registered User
Switches have a big range of ratings. There is the AC voltage that they can switch and the DC voltage, along with the current ratings at these voltages. Usually the limiting factor is what they will stand when BREAKING the circuit, since that is when the energy is passing through. Sparking on make is almost always due to the contacts bouncing, otherwise it needs both a very high voltage and a slow action.
A switch that supplies power to a system that is not drawing power at the time of switching can carry several times its switching current AS LONG AS IT DOESN'T OPERATE WHEN CARRYING THAT CURRENT.
My preference is a blade type fuse between battery and ESC where it can be easily removed. Anything untoward happens, the fuse blows. I have yet to venture into lithium, but what I have seen tells me that the batteries should be removable for charging - disconnecting them does the job of switching off to prevent residual current discharging the batteries below their survival level well enough.

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