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Apr 22, 2013, 07:49 PM
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The second of the "New 2013 series modifications and improvements" is the "new servo positions". The outboard aileron servo has been moved from the 70% out position to the 50% out position.

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The first improvement took over 7 ounces out of the plane. This modification takes the outboard servo and moves its mass closer to the center. Even better snap rolls!!
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Apr 22, 2013, 07:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dean bird
the winner of the shootout thought... It was having large ailerons that let you control the stop of the snap.


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Apr 25, 2013, 06:40 PM
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With the stabilizers and wings complete, I went back to the beginning of the instruction manual to start installing things on and in the fuselage.

The first thing to install is the tail wheel assembly. I got a titanium style with direct drive from J&J Tailwheels as a Christmas gift while I was still researching what I wanted and hadn't decided which airframe I wanted to fly. I was thinking the titanium style was the lightest. I was thinking the direct drive was the simplest to install. It is the absolute incorrect tailwheel assembly for this plane.

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It was a gift so I decided to make it work. There are titanium assemblies like this one and carbon leaf spring assemblies. This fuselage has a flat bottom at the rudder post and is perfect for mounting a leaf spring type assembly.

I have the direct drive option instead of the traditional style that uses springs from the rudder control horn to drive the tail wheel steering. The bottom of a composite rudder has no structure so it isn't built for mounting a connection for the direct drive of the tailwheel.

Get a leaf spring tailwheel assembly with traditional style steering and you can mount it in a matter of minutes. It took me about 90 minutes to get this one mounted.

The mounting brackets in the first picture were too wide for the fuselage bottom. I ended up using 1/4" cable clamps and some cool black #8 x 1/2" screws for the attachment to the fuselage.

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Apr 25, 2013, 06:41 PM
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The screws are going into a plywood plate in the bottom of the fuselage. The front of the rudder post is 1" from the rear of the plane and the plywood plate extends for another 4.5" past the front of the rudder post.

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The part of the titanium that rests on the fuselage 3.25" long, so I decided to mount the wire so the bend away from the fuselage is just slightly in front of the rudder post.

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Drill a 1/4" hole for the vertical and the position is set.

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Apr 25, 2013, 06:42 PM
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The bend from the vertical part of the wire to the part that rests on the fuselage has a small radius. My little round need file in the hand drill takes a little off the corner on the fuselage to match the radius on the wire.

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When you get enough taken off, the vertical wire should slide in and the wire rests perfectly on the bottom of the fuselage.

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Apr 25, 2013, 06:43 PM
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I really wish I was using a leaf spring style tail wheel assembly.

I needed support for the vertical wire. I took a 1.25" length piece of a 1" dowel and turned it into an oval. I marked the center of the oval and then slid it through the rudder post.

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I set it off to the side. You can see the hole in the plywood plate for the vertical part of the wire.

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I used a long, thin screwdriver and put 15 minute epoxy in an oval shape around the hole. I used hemostats to grab the wood oval and place it over the 1/4" hole in the bottom of the fuselage.

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My beautiful wife was very helpful and spotted from underneath with a flashlight. She told me when I had the black dot in the center of the wood oval centered in the 1/4" hole in the bottom of the fuselage.

The wide part of the oval went across the fuselage since that is the direction the wire will be trying to twist.
Apr 25, 2013, 06:44 PM
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I let the 15 minute epoxy cure overnight. Today I turned the fuselage upside down and drilled the 1/4" hole in the fuselage through the wood oval I added.

I wicked thin CA into the screw holes and the 1/4" hole to harden the wood.

The titanium style tailwheel is mounted.

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Apr 25, 2013, 06:46 PM
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The main landing gear is next. I had two wheel options to consider.

I have always used Dubro 4.5" Lightweight Treaded wheels on my 40% planes. They weigh 4.2 ounces each.

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Pilot-RC had recently announced a new line of wheels. Their 4.8" wheel was listed as being 3.4 ounces. I asked Tony whether they were durable and he said they were. I got a set and they really are only 3.4 ounces for a 4.8" wheel.

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Apr 25, 2013, 06:48 PM
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I had three axle options to consider.

- 6mm axle setup supplied (.8 ounces per side)
- 3/16" steel axle setup (.7 ounces per side)
- 3/16" titanium axle setup (.5 ounces per side)

The 6mm axle installation using the supplied hardware is bulletproof. The CARF-Models plane at my field with over 1,500 flights has the stock axle setup and it is completely maintenance free and super strong. I don't have wild landings and I practice and fly contests on smooth runways so I can consider other, less tolerant, axle hardware.

I didn't consider the 6mm axles with the Pilot-RC wheels because they would have to be drilled out to match the axle. The wheels are copper bushed, so I had no interest in drilling out that hole.

There are some concerns with the 3/16" titanium axles being appropriate for a 40% plane. I didn't consider the titanium axle with the Pilot-RC tires because they are very firm tires. It would have been the lightest option.

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Here were the three remaining options.

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I've chosen to install the Pilot-RC wheels on the Dubro 3/16" axles (4.1 ounces per side). That is only 4/10ths of an ounce heavier (for both wheels) than the lightest option and should work well. I consider this option to be 1.8 ounces lighter (for both wheels) than the stock setup (supplied axles and Dubro 4.5" wheels). If you normally use 5" Dubro wheels your weight savings with the Pilot-RC wheels will be even more.

With that said, if you have the occasional rough landing, miss the runway, fly off rough fields, or have any other scenarios where you need maximum axle strength, please use the supplied axle hardware. It is only 2/10ths of an ounce heavier (for both axles) than 3/16" steel axles and will last forever.
Apr 30, 2013, 08:34 PM
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The main landing gear have "molded dimples" for the bolt and axle locations.

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The landing gear is VERY strong. There is very little flex. They are molded with too much camber for my taste.

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Apr 30, 2013, 08:35 PM
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The instructions talk about drilling a 6mm hole for the stock axle. I'm using the Dubro 3/16" axles that need a much larger hole for mounting. The hole would be around 8mm. I wanted to mount the axle a little further up to make sure there was enough material left around the hole.

I now had three reasons to shorten the legs.

- less camber
- more material for mounting the Dubro axle
- it reduced the weight by 2/10ths of an ounce

I'll be running a 30" prop so clearance is no issue. I chose to shorten the gear legs by 3/4".

I made sure the gear legs were the same length after they were shortened.

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I ended up taking about half the camber out.

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Apr 30, 2013, 08:36 PM
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Drilling and mounting the Dubro 3/16" axles is quick.

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The axle got about three turns into the lock nut.

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Apr 30, 2013, 08:37 PM
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The blind nuts for the landing gear bolts have already been installed in the landing gear plate in the fuselage. Each gear leg is mounted with three M6 bolts and washers.

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The landing gear bolts are installed from the bottom of the fuselage and the access holes were done at the factory. Just slide the legs in from the side and bolt them on.

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The gear leg has just a little camber remaining and should be perfect once the engine and cowl is mounted.

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Apr 30, 2013, 08:38 PM
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The wheel pants are installed next. The instruction manual doesn't provide much information and only one picture of it installed. It does mention that some of the pictures in the instructions are from the SuperXtra or Extra 260 "where the construction and assembly are identical".

The wheel pants have a recess in the side. This is how they mount to the gear leg for an Extra 260.

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The gear legs come straight down out of the fuselage on an Extra 260. The Extra 330SC has a forward slanted landing gear.

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I found a picture in the SuperXtra photo sheet on the CARF-Models website that showed the recess being filled with plywood.

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Apr 30, 2013, 08:39 PM
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I used the kindergarten trick of putting a piece of paper over the recess in the wheel pant and running a pencil back and forth. It created the shape I needed for the plywood spacer.

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I did the fine trimming with some scissors until the paper template fit the recess perfectly.

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I transferred that to a scrap piece of 1/8" lite ply and cut it out.

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