Great Lakes Freighter -- New from Dumas - Page 3 - RC Groups
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Mar 14, 2013, 12:29 PM
I have no friends
I grew up around these boats. My father knew all the crews and was an unofficial harbormaster (town didn't have one at the time) and we would go down to the docks when they came in.

Lots of memories of those boats. Climbing the ladder to get on, watching them unload stone and coal, even getting to move the boom once. I also recall my sister being too small to climb the ladder so they brought her up in the supply bag with a rope. Took one ride to Burns Harbor IN and back too.

Haven't gotten the chance to go on them anymore due to Homeland Security keeping people away now, kind of a bummer.

This kit is cool! I like it but I gave always wanted to build big one, about 8' - 10' with a working movable boom on it and a bow thruster too. Since I live on a pond now, I might just have to!

Thanks for sharing your build!
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Mar 17, 2013, 10:58 AM
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P. Tritle's Avatar

Fitting the Portoles


The portoles are made from brass eyelets -- the type found on servo mounts. Before the eyelets were inserted and glued in each hole was opened up with a 1/8" drill bit to dlear the debree left by priming and sanding. The eyelets were glued in with medium Cya.
Mar 17, 2013, 11:00 AM
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And with that, It's Time to Paint


The bottom was sprayed first with red, then when dry was masked and the black upper color applied. After that gad dried, the deck was masked and sprayed. The color scheme is not for any particular boat, just wanted something that would stand out nicely on the water.
Mar 17, 2013, 11:15 AM
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Installing the Running Gear


This one is going to be set up with a Suppo 2212 (920 KV) outrunner motor and a F/R ESC, so the motor mount will have to be fabricated on the fly -- more on that later. But for now, the prop shaft was set up per the instructions with one exception.

There's a lot of shaft protruding from the stuffing box, and in my experience using brushless outrunners in these boats, at higher cruise speeds the prop shafts will wobble: at best they'll get noisy, at worst they'll throw the dog-bone, so an additional support was added to the shaft. There's two ways you can do this, and either work well..

First, a ball bearing can be used in the support if you happen to have one the right size lying around. A friend gave me a couple of 1/8" ID bearings for the Sub Chaser to fix that one. But what works just as well is two sizes of brass tube about 5/8" long soldered together to make a thick walled bushing. The bushing (or bearing) is secured in a 1/4 bass wood support that is glued into the hull in a handy spot. Allow the bushing to self align and secure it with epoxy. And with that, there's no wobble at all, and the system will run in nearly complete silence.

Meanwhile, the prop shaft was lubed with lith grease and inserted into the stuffing box. Then a drop of synthetic engine oil was placed at the front and rear of the stuffing box and on the additional bushing.

PAT
Mar 18, 2013, 12:08 PM
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Building Up the Motor Mount


A brushless outrunner is being used in this one too, so a new mount was fabricated rather then modifying the existing set up. The system is a simple gusseted plate that is epoxied to the hull bottom.
Mar 18, 2013, 12:16 PM
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Finish Up the Running Gear Installation.


The ESC was mounted next to the motor and velcroed to the hull bottom. The rudder and servo assemblies were installed per the instructions. Then once all that was in, the Rx was connected and secured with Velcro and the battery was placed on the opposite side in the stern section to counter the weight of the other components.

Setting up the running gear is really easy in this one if for no other reason then there's lot's of room for the components which leaves a lot of choices in component location. However, I know the boat is going to take a lot of ballast, so I wanted to leave as much of the main hull un-cluttered making placement of the ballast as easy as possible for obtaining proper fore/aft ballance.

From here it's on to the top side....

PAT
Mar 21, 2013, 12:35 AM
Its only a model.
Tregurtha1013's Avatar
As always Pat is doing a great job building this kit. Its also a wonderful that Dumas put out a laker. That said, the stern simply doesn't look right, its not a good representation of the classic laker 'counter stern'. The pic of the Mississagi below shows a real one. Judge for yourself.
Mar 21, 2013, 11:03 AM
Old wreck in Milwaukee
Prins Willem's Avatar
I kinda thought the same thing Tregurtha1013. I'm inclined to be charitable though as Dumas was willing to tackle the project in the first place.

A gentle sweep to the keel. That would have been impossible with the slab building method employed on this kit.

I always like the color scheme and stack logo Mississagi has.
Last edited by Prins Willem; Mar 21, 2013 at 04:24 PM.
Mar 21, 2013, 01:48 PM
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Treg, You're spot on, the stern section is definitely not right. However, in todays world, real modelers are getting fewer and farther between -- and Dumas knows that better then most. The result is that accuracy MUST give way to simplicity or the average builder won't build it -- sad, but true. The good news though is that when the boat is in the water you can't tell that its been fudged, so the compromise isn't going to be all bad. But for the purist who doesn't mind a challenge it wouldn't be all that hard to make it right.

Meanwhile, I got started on the top side and will be posting up the progress real soon.

PAT
Mar 22, 2013, 01:18 PM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
And, you don't need a stand.
Mar 27, 2013, 07:07 AM
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Building the Crew Cabin


The aft cabin is a simple box arangement built up from wood and plastic. The ventilators and smoke stack are built up but won't be glued in place till after the paint work is done.
Mar 27, 2013, 07:10 AM
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Assembling the Small Parts


There are several sub-assemblies for the aft upper cabin, forward mast, life boats and cable reels that are called out in the instructions. The best bet is to start at the top and work your way through the list one item at a time.
Mar 27, 2013, 07:13 AM
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The Last Dry Run Before Painting


With all of the basic sub-assemblies done, the parts were dry fitted to make sure it would all work before the paint work begins.
Mar 27, 2013, 07:17 AM
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Painting the Major Assemblies


The top-side components were painted using Model Master enamels and Acryl. The white, red and black were sprayed using enamel. The gray decks were brushed with 2 coats of Acryl.
Mar 27, 2013, 07:29 AM
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Adding More Detail


The pilot house windows added, then the front cabin assembly was glued in place. The rear cabin assembly was set up and the life boats rigged and all the details added except for the smoke stack -- more paint work needed there.

A point of interest: The aft cabin is removable for battery access, but there's no mention in the instructions regarding its attachment. So, as is typical of this type set up, I added the combing to the inside of the opening using kit supplied 1/8 X 1/2 bass wood strips. The cabin fits perfectly over the opening, so I'm sure the lack of instruction was simply an oversight -- or, I'm just missing it?


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