DLE 30 - Some basic questions - RC Groups
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Mar 07, 2013, 07:21 PM
Need a bigger runway
sandydr's Avatar

DLE 30 - Some basic questions

So, I am putting together my first gas engines plane (Slipstream Beaver) and have a few quite basic questions which I am looking for help with. I use gas Zenoah engines on my boats, but this is the first time using electronic ignition and a DLE 30.

1. Trying to keep the spark plug cap on the spark plug, but it just falls out. Is there some sort of retaining clip that I am missing, or is it just brute force to push it further in?
2. My choke is really close to the firewall. I was planning to attach it to a servo, but I think the hole required so the clevis moves freely would be too big. Any suggestions on how to control the choke?
3. So there is a hole in the firewall which is facing the carb. Is it ok to put the gas line, servo lines through this hole? Or should I make a new ones to keep the air flow around the carb clear?
4. I was planning on putting the EI module under the carb. Is this ok?

Sorry if some if these questions are basic, but I don’t know anyone locally with a gas engine plane, so I am ‘winging it’… Thanks, Sandy
Last edited by sandydr; Mar 07, 2013 at 07:23 PM. Reason: added pt 4
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Mar 07, 2013, 08:16 PM
Registered User
When that cap is on right, they're a mother to pull off! Push it on until you can't see the hex part of the plug.

A lot of guys use a wire leading forward to an opening in the cowl (next to the spinner) and use it manualy. If you want to use a servo, maybe you could make a new arm that's 180 degrees to the one you have?

If that hole is handy to whatever you need, I'd go for it.

Ign. module under the carb is going to expose it to a lot of heat from both the exhaust and the cylinder. I wouldn't do that if there were other options.
Mar 07, 2013, 11:28 PM
Registered User
Yes, keep the ignition away from heat, many are mounted above or to the side of the engine. I would make new holes for the servo rods and fuel lines on your plane.

You can buy new carb arms and re-position them but they are a little spendy, unless you get them from Hobby King of course. Or you could mod the choke arm yourself as many people do,
Mar 08, 2013, 12:30 AM
Registered User
kerwin50's Avatar
I beveled the hex part of the spark plug for my dle cap and I also put a hose clamp on it as well.
If you can see anything more than the compression ring of the spark plug it'ss not on all the way. This can cause you to not only get RF noise destroy the boot but also given enough time it will kill your Ign.
Put a hole behind your carb so it can breathe good..
For my choke I have my rod come forward and my guidee is a wire ty on 2 stand offs . the rod runs beteewn the wire ty and I have 2 smaller wire ties going around the large wire tie. One above the choke rod and one below the choke rod.
This engine does not need a varibale choke.
I would put the Ign box above the carb. heat is a killer.
Mar 08, 2013, 07:48 AM
Need a bigger runway
sandydr's Avatar
Thanks for all your replies.
Brute force got the plug in and it seems to want to stay in now. I think I will go with your suggestions and keep it simple with the carb arm and just extend a rod out towards the cowling.
There is an existing hole in the firewall which is directly behind the carb, so it should get enough air in and make new holes for the gas line / throttle rods.
The problem remains with the EI. To the side, I will not be able to adjust the HSN/LSN and to the top the EI touches the stand-off's. Thinking about making a large enough hole to put the plug through and mount the EI on the inside wall of the firewall.
Mar 08, 2013, 09:49 AM
Registered User
earlwb's Avatar
I have usually placed the CDI unit inside on my planes as there wasn't anyplace to put it up front. Usually the spark plug cable is long so having the CDI inside allows for less excess spark plug cable dangling around outside too.

Now on your plane, if the CDI module is small enough, you could place it on the firewall above the engine. I would put a little plywood shelf there and use velcro to attach the CDU module to the firewall and shelf.
Mar 08, 2013, 10:24 AM
Need a bigger runway
sandydr's Avatar
Thanks Earl,
the module to big to sit on top without it touching the stand-off's, so I think I am going to mount it high up on the inside of the firewall. This is also going to be a float plane, so anything I can do to minimize possible water damage should help.
Mar 08, 2013, 01:09 PM
Registered User
Touching the stand offs not an issue as long as you can prevent chafing/galling? I've tie wrapped modules directly to the stand offs with a piece of ply between the stand offs and the module?

The module is a big block of epoxy inside that cover, doesn't need too much attention, but there's nothing wrong with mounting it inside the firewall either.
Mar 11, 2013, 05:04 PM
Need a bigger runway
sandydr's Avatar
Thanks ahicks, I went with installing the EI high inside the firewall. I think I have finished the engine installation now. Would appreciate if someone can cast their eye over it.

I am using both a dual Miracle with fuel dot and a Opto kill switch (made a little bit of a mess of the covering.... but will tidy up).
I mounted the prop at the 1 o clock position in line with the ignition magnet.
The fuel tank has 3 lines out. 1 vent to the bottom, 1 to the carb and 1 to the fuel dot.
I kept it simple with the carb and just extended out a rod held in place with some tie wraps.

4.8v 2300mah nimh for the EI
6v 1600mah nimh for the servos / rx

However, looking in the box, I have 1 piece left over which is 1 end of a male Futaba plug. Where am I supposed to use this? Thanks in advance, Sandy
Mar 11, 2013, 07:15 PM
Registered User
Do you have two clunk lines in the fuel tank, one for the carb and the other on your fill line? The vent line should not go straight out the bottom, it can siphon gas or leak fuel at different times. The vent line should come up over the top of the tank run to the other end and loop around back to the front then to the outside of the plane.
Mar 11, 2013, 07:33 PM
Need a bigger runway
sandydr's Avatar
Hello Bob, I have a clunk on the main carb line. The fill line is just jammed in the bottom back corner. I gave it a good shake when the fuel tank was out of the plane and it wasn't moving around. Should I still put a clunk on it? The vent line brass tube is pointed to the top of the tank, but I will re-route the line as per your suggestion. Thanks, Sandy
Mar 11, 2013, 07:54 PM
Registered User
That left over wire is supplied in case you need it. You don't...
Mar 11, 2013, 11:00 PM
Registered User
It would be best if the fill line had a clunk. If the tank is a pain to remove I would put a clunk on it now, if it's easy to remove then you might leave it as is and see how it works since the issue would be in getting the fuel out of the plane and you really don't need to drain the tank after every flight.
Mar 12, 2013, 08:35 AM
Registered User
Only for the sake of conversation, avoiding any right vs. wrong thinking. There is the option of flying a 2 line system - without a filtered tank clunk. Many use it very successfully. The thought behind it is to filter the fuel before it gets to the plane. Regarding anything that may be rinsed/jarred loose once the fuel arrives in the plane, the fuel is filtered again at a very easily accessible (1 screw) point in the carb.
Mar 12, 2013, 09:53 AM
Need a bigger runway
sandydr's Avatar
Hello Bob, the tank is very easy to get to. Only need to snip 2 tie wraps to take it out. Generally when I am out playing I tend to let the fuel run dry to clear out the carb (is this a bad idea on a motor with EI?)

Thanks ahicks for confirming on the wire lead. I had planned to use a 2 line system, but didn't have any T's available. I have been using 3 lines always in my gas boats, so it seemed an obvious way to go.

This may sound like a really stupid question..... on my gas boats and nitro planes, I simply use the throttle to close the carb to kill the engine. Reading through various forums on about the air gas engines, it always talks about having kill switches. So, I installed a dual kill switch system (1 mechanical and 1 Opto). Why can not simply closing the carb work with this set up as well? Thanks, Sandy

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