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Old Mar 05, 2013, 11:22 PM
Rocketman320 is offline
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Covering with ca glue and silk


Is it possible or has anyone covered a sold wood or balsa structure using CA Glue and silk? I have seen CA and fiberglass used together as a covering method. I really need need a fabric that is lighter than 1/2 oz cloth yet strong like silk.

Thanks!
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Old Mar 05, 2013, 11:33 PM
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The Cyano will immediately harden on the silk, leaving an ugly, raised mess. The tried and true method is attaching the silk using model dope. You'd need to seal it in any case, and dope works well for taughtening and sealing it too. And it smells good

Have a look here http://airfieldmodels.com/informatio...wing/index.htm
Old Mar 06, 2013, 08:30 AM
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It will be heavy.
Old Mar 06, 2013, 12:09 PM
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The FF guys flying discus launch gliders (up to one meter span), almost always use solid balsa wings, with local applications of fg cloth at launch wing tip, and use duco cement to stick the cloth to the balsa. There was a recent build over on Hip Pockets where a fellow built a very small rubber scale Me-109F using CA and tissue on very thin balsa shells, for wing tail and fuselage. VERY interesting and surprizingly light.

A single layer of Fg cloth or silk imparts almost no strength to a sheeted surface EXCEPT in tensile strength. For all intents and purposes doped silk, tissue, and or silkspan does a similar job. However, I gotta think CA and tissue (which is comprized of multiple fibers overlapping), once bound to balsa MUST impart more stiffness. FG is most efficient when used in multiple layers, which then starts to emulate the CA/tissue/ balsa shell.

Just my .02.
Old Mar 06, 2013, 12:17 PM
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I'm assuming here from the fiberglass cloth reference that you're covering a sheeted fuselage or fully sheeted wing.

The weight will still be there as CA glue is quite heavy. It's also difficult to spread the CA out evenly as it kicks off before it can spread out very far. And it's hell to sand.

The 1/2 oz cloth isn't that much heavier than silk. And it's most certainly stronger and won't degrade from UV light exposure when outside like silk does. Silk loses much of it's strength when this happens. A buddy that uses a lot of silk for his big spark engine old timers gets about 5 years worth of life before the silk is so brittle that it needs to be stripped off and the model re-covered. And we only fly these things about a dozen days a year.

If you're looking for a lighter sort of base for a finish then consider dope on the wood then cover with tissue paper using thinner to soak into the paper and soften the dope on the wood. The tissue won't degrade but if you clear finish it the UV will fade the colour over time. But as a base for a painted finish it's pretty good.

If you're painting the finish on the tissue is a better option since it will require a lot less primer/filler to smoothen it out compared to most of the fabrics. And the sandable primer is VERY heavy. Colour paints are also heavy so a light finger on the spray gun trigger will go a long way to holding down the weight. Brushing on colour paint is right out of the question. By the time the film is thick enough to ensure even colour you've got easily three times as much paint on the surface as a minimal spray coat would be.
Old Mar 06, 2013, 02:49 PM
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My way-outside the "box"


I fiber-glass the sheeting on my models with .75 oz cloth and thin C/A. I cut more cloth than necessary,and drape it over one half of the area,'weighting' it to lie flat.

Then I open the"box", and pour C/A into a clean spray bottle...(Windex,etc.),and standing up wind, let 'er fly.It goes a loooong way,and doesn't 'go off' all that fast.A cloth in a sandwich bag in the opposite hand pushes it flat on application.Cloth follows contours,and plastic doesn't stick.

On my 1/4 scale models, it's lighter than paint,as it seals the surface,limiting penetration.
Rubber gloves are recommended,and obviously it's done outside.

Total cost is equal to most other finishes.
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Old Mar 06, 2013, 10:43 PM
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Very interesting technique there Epoxyearl....might have to try it!
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Old Mar 07, 2013, 06:06 PM
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Earl, an interesting technique for sure.

Do you need to keep the pump going pretty consistently to avoid the CA kicking off in the mister pump or does it stay thin and watery for quite a while?
Old Mar 07, 2013, 06:33 PM
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The life of the pump depends on a couple of unknowns..One, I think, has to do with moisture,as the first time I tried it, there was no problem.
I had no plan to "reuse" that bottle,it was just a one-shot deal.
But another time,the nozzle clogged up immediately,with a different bottle.

All I expected was to 'pump and dump' the bottle when done,but it lasted through 2ozs.

Stay UPWIND ! That stuff is dangerous ! I would imagine the mist would glue hair, eyelids, etc.Much care is required...
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Old Mar 08, 2013, 11:45 AM
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Or making up a temporary paint booth using a fan and plastic or tarps would be a wise idea as well.
Old Mar 08, 2013, 10:46 PM
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I have always used thinned white glue to attache both silkspan and silk and then doped over it. Works great!
Old Mar 09, 2013, 12:41 AM
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Definitely wear a breathing outfit if spraying CA. I can only imagine it would eventually kill you in the same manner as Imron paint does for those who learned the hard way.
Old Mar 09, 2013, 06:58 AM
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Safety is of the utmost importance..I can't imagine taking a deep breath of the spray mist,and having it kick off inside your lungs.

On second thought, I'm almost sorry I shared this.

In retrospect,I have been carefully using C/A since the introduction of C/A glues,beginning with "Hot Stuff".....(the 70's ?)...as with Imron, the results are worth 'suiting up' for.
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Old Mar 09, 2013, 10:38 AM
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"I can only imagine it would eventually kill you in the same manner as Imron paint does for those who learned the hard way."

I don't know how long that takes, but my three sons and I did a number of full size cars, and many, many patern planes, using catalyzed Delstar, which, I am given to understand, is the same as Imron, and we are still alive and kicking, and me at 82.

Les
Old Mar 09, 2013, 11:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LesUyeda View Post
"I can only imagine it would eventually kill you in the same manner as Imron paint does for those who learned the hard way."

I don't know how long that takes, but my three sons and I did a number of full size cars, and many, many patern planes, using catalyzed Delstar, which, I am given to understand, is the same as Imron, and we are still alive and kicking, and me at 82.

Les
Les, I did custom paint on show cars, using catalyzed paint and no safety gear for many years,until such time as I realized I am mortal.At 72, I am not on any prescription drugs,for any disease. I think we have a 'protective coating' inside that shields us from harm. lol
Smoking "can" kill you, but not everybody who smokes, dies of cancer.
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