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Mar 04, 2013, 08:53 AM
Sports scale builder
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Build Log

Build diary of a sports scale TFGS P-47


This will be my daily build diary of my TFGS P-47

I am just over one month into it.

TB
Last edited by Tonybuilder; Mar 21, 2013 at 04:59 AM.
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Mar 04, 2013, 03:50 PM
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Yep, I'm almost done "drinking the kool-aid" over at the "other" site. Glad I'm almost done with mine, so I don't have to fight the posting issues anymore.

Gary
Mar 04, 2013, 04:45 PM
Registered User
I wondered how it would take for ya'll to see the light.
Edwin
Mar 05, 2013, 07:30 AM
Sports scale builder
Tonybuilder's Avatar
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Starting to get ready to finally build the TF GS P-47. The kit is ordered, I'm assembling all my gear and components, building supplies and getting my workspace set-up. Yes there are a few ongoing P-47 builds here on RCU, mine is more of a chronicle of my build, a way for me to look back at my building methods. This will be my biggest build to date and I have learned a lot in the past three years I have been building. I am going for sports scale, I want a great looking and functioning plane for every day flying. So I am planning on covering with ultracote, doing panel lines and rivets, all scale hing lines, concealed control links, and some other fun details.

My gear will be Sierra, with Robart tank and valve. DLE55 with Pitts and it is set up for smoke so I may install my sky writer in it. All Hitec servos, HS-7945SH on elevator, I'm going for one servo with the scale linkage so I hope 333oz is going to be ok! HS-5645MG on all other surfaces, Futaba S3050 on throttle, and a HS-425BB for the choke. HS-22MG for the air valve, I'm going to go with 123life bats for Rx and ignition. Not sure if I will use a Rcexl optical kill or not, limited channels on my radio. Anyways this has been on my have to build list since I started building, all the inspiration from the great build threads are so helpful.
Here is a pic of my 60 sized P-47 to show what Im going for. I havent picked a scheme yet, I will be throwing some idieas out there, and taking some too. Still haven't decided if I will do the razorback or the bubble!
Here are some schemes!


TB
Mar 05, 2013, 07:35 AM
Sports scale builder
Tonybuilder's Avatar
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My Kit came today, along with my Tower order and my G-10. I orderd the G-10 yesterday, cant believe it got here today. Even the kit took less then a week. I officialy started building this evening at 8:00 I was surprised at how heavy the box was! I went to my LHS and got some building supplies and other items I will be needing, I got carbon fiber rods and tubes, some corbon fiber flate strips for my hing pockets and a few othe thing. Man who ever said it is cheaper to build a kit then to do an ARF, I droped $200, go local economy.
I am getting a start on the tail so I found the di-cut parts for the tail, marked them and poped them out. the wood looks good. they poped out pretty eisaly and I sanded them lightly with a used foam sanding block. Tomorrow I start glueing and getting my hinges made. I have it all figured out in my head so now its time to put the glue to the wood.

TB
Mar 05, 2013, 07:38 AM
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Ok first day at it. I spent most of the day geeting ready and setting up my work space. But I did get something done The LE and TE, ribs are all glued in and ready for sanding and sheeting. One thing I dont like is the sheeting lays over the LE. You have to sand it to shape then skin the surface. I prefer to do the LE bigger and have the sheeting butt into the LE, then glue it all down, then sand the LE to match the sheeting. Just my preference. I haven't looked at it but if there is enough balsa on the LE I may just do that. we will see. I got my first look at this stab so I am working on the hinges as we go. I cut a few G-10 pieces to play around with. Onward!

TB
Last edited by Tonybuilder; Mar 05, 2013 at 07:44 AM.
Mar 05, 2013, 07:44 AM
Sports scale builder
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This is my first Top Flite kit so I dont have experience with there methods. I have built Goldberg, Sig and short kits from plans. Its been a while since I built a kit so just getting back into the swing. My method is to look at the plan, read the steps on the manule then build as I feel it should be, or suites what Im doing. I did get the top of the stab sheathed last night and once I get the bottom sheathed I will remove the LE, sand it all nice and flat then glue in a new LE. I need to go to my LHS and get some 3/4 balsa and some other stock. Today my goal is to get the hinges done, finish the stab and get the ruder started if not completed. I need to figure out the location of the hinges as best as I can being there is no scale location on the plans. Thats onother thing these kit manufactures could do is provide on the plans some more scale details for builders that do desice to go for it they will have details they can use already desinged into the plans. The hinges I think will be plug in, kind of like the G-10 controll horns your seeing on large scale 3D ARF's. I want to have a working hinge before I sheath the bottom of the stab. Then I will glue in the hinge and sheath, or sheath and sand then glue in the hinge.
I may find that I can't go further until I get the fuselage built because the linkages are all closly alined and I have to make sure wthey dont clash with eachother or the tail gear. Here are some pics of my 60 size P-47 with my first attempt at a scale tail. The hing locations are off but the basic idea is still good.

TB
Mar 05, 2013, 07:47 AM
Sports scale builder
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Stabilizer, and elevator.

Today was a good day, slow going but a good day. I got the stab done, sheeted and hinged. I have the elevator sheathed and started the hinge line. I made the hing blocks for the stab out of G-10 and balsa. After fabricating them and putting them on the scale to so how heavy they where. oz each so a total of 1 oz. So I made up a hinge block out of 3/32 5 ply birch I had and weighed it. 1/8 oz so I decided to make them out of ply, saves oz and on the tail thats a lot up front. I will have some additional weight beyond the standard build anyways so Im trying to be very strict on the weight.
I started to lay the tube for the hinge pin on the elevator. I decided to use carbon fiber instead of plastic. I have a carbon fiber rod also, but I may do a steel rod. I havent worked out how I;m going to secure the pin yet. I have a few ideas and I will get to that when the time comes. I did fit a dowel into the carbon fiber torque tube that will join the two elevator. I drilled a hole on each end for the the hinge pin to go in, Im thinking of threading the pin into that, just need to figure the end at the elevator tip. The torque rod will have a horn on it. Im thinking of making the horn out of G-10. I will do a dummy setup and test the strength. If I cant break it, then its good to go.

My torque rod is a 3/8 carbon tube with a carbon tube as a sleeve. The sleeve will be in the center section and secured to the stabilizer on either side of the torque rod. Being its I'm going to use Robart gear door brackets to secure the sleeve. This sleeve will also act as the third hing. It will be attached to a G-10 plate that will be bolted to the stab for installation and removal.

I put in some 1 hinge blocks, should be big enough!

For the hing tube I first centered the LE of the elevator, then pined the tube in. I surrounded the tube with balsa and glued it in.


I removed the LE on the stab and after sheeting the bottom and sanded the LE and glued in a 1 x3/8 LE, much better. Now all I have to do is trim and sand.



I cut two slots for the hinge blocks, just need to make some adjustments once I attach the elevator.


So that s where I stand. Tomorrow I will work on finishing the elevator.
Mar 05, 2013, 08:58 AM
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Mar 07, 2013, 06:11 AM
Sports scale builder
Tonybuilder's Avatar
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The G-10 hinge blocks weigh in at oz, and the ply blocks come in at 1/8 oz!
I tried to get the location of the hinges as close as I could with the information I have, may not be scale but close enough (sport scale).

Got the balsa blocks glued in before I called it quits.
Last edited by Tonybuilder; Mar 07, 2013 at 06:17 AM.
Mar 07, 2013, 06:18 AM
Sports scale builder
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The Elevator

Yes Titebond is great and I am using it more and more on this build, drys fast, sands easy, I like to apply it with my finger, really covers well and soaks in this way, plus it doesnt knock you on your ass like CA does!
I got some more work in on the elevator last night. I glued in the LE with titebond, taped it up and watched it dry While waiting I trimmed and sanded the LE of the stab. I masked it all off so that any high spots on the glue joint would get sanded down. I use a lot of blue tape when I build. Anytime I sand I mask, no risk of over sanding and I can isolate the area I want sanded, works good for me. I will putty before I do the final sanding of the LE.

After a short break I rough sanded the elevator, I masked it the same as the stab. As I thought the additional material in the LE for the radius has pushed the elevator back about 3/16 no biggy for me, the ruder will get pushed back the same. I will glue in the elevator and stab tips tonight, then putty and sand the fallowing.

I started to work on the elevator torque rood connector and the control horn. I made it out of G-10 and fitted it for a 4-40 ball link. I cut in two slots on the carbon fiber tube. It feels really strong and that G-10 is very hard to break. I have made mistakes before so if anyone thinks this is a bad idea please speak up. I feel it is strong and once its glued in it will be more then enough. I really do not want to use a bolt, ugly and boring. I sanded down a hard wood dowel to glue into the carbon fiber tube. It may not be necessary to do the whole tube. I need plugs at the ends to seal the tube and for the hinge pin to set into, this will assure proper centering. I think the horn is long enough, I do not want a long horn there, I am using a carbon fiber push rod and I also need to clear the tail wheel. I can make it up on the servo end with a 1-1-1/4 or 1-1/2 servo arm.


TB
Last edited by Tonybuilder; Mar 07, 2013 at 06:24 AM.
Mar 07, 2013, 06:25 AM
Sports scale builder
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My cowl came in from FS, looks good, I also got the cooler cover too. I will still put the cowl together that came with the kit and use that for fitting, and experimenting with, really want to do cowl flaps


TB
Mar 07, 2013, 06:30 AM
Sports scale builder
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Today was a short evening in the shop. I glued the tips on the stab and the elevator, and I glued in the control horn. I cut some rings out of the carbon fiber sleeve. One is the size of the space between the control horns and the others just a little smaller. One on each side. I glued them all in with 30 min epoxy and once it is cured I will sand it down nice and pretty. The idea is to get strength and to have the welded bead look on the rings. I will paint the G-10 and the elevator tube yellow or green when Im all done with the joiner rod.


I put a coat of light weight putty on the stab and the elevator halves. I like to putty before I sand the LE down to its final shape. That way any low spots and bird baths will get filled in. Tomorrow I will do the final shaping and sanding before I cut the detail in the tips and the hinges. I think I will build the ruder before I glue the joiner tube in, need to see how it all goes together.


Here is a pic of what I am going for on the ruder and stab as fare as the mechanics of the pull pull and the elevator torque rod.


Jason, the blue tape works really good at finding the high spots, glue bulges and anything else that is high. I will go threw a few rolls before you know it. You have to go at it delicately as to not let it roll up on you. Wear it down and it will sand away nicely.


TB
Mar 07, 2013, 06:35 AM
Sports scale builder
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Elevator Hinge


I had a good day in the shop, got the dirty deed done, sanded the stab and elevator! Got her all shaped up and ready to start the hing process. I have a collection of various sizes of PVC that I ripped in half to create radius profile sanding blocks. This works great on the LE of the elevator. Being the elevator is not a constant cored you have to use various sizes to achieve the radius. Before I shaped the LE I cut the tip detail in. Thanks Gary for showing the dimensions for that, 11/16! I used a piece of 4-40 with a sharp end to drill threw the tip. I will do the same for the stab tip once the hinge is glued in.


I cut in the first set of hinge blocks and got the weir in. Not going to kid you, this is not easy to do! I have some adjusting to do before I sand the blocks down, then glue them in. If I screw one up I can make another one so I dont want to glue them in until they are all done.


The elevator joiner and torque rod came out really nice. The horn is strong and I think I achieved the look I was going for. A little polishing and she is ready for paint. My goal today is to get the hinges done and maybe start the hinge pocket, now thats the easy part. I am confident with the elevator tube so I am going to glue it in when the hinges are done. I still need to make the two brackets that go on either side of the elevator horn, that will be tomorrows project.


I did find one flaw to my design and will reveal once I confirm it, may not be a biggy but it is an obstacle!


TB
Mar 07, 2013, 06:39 AM
Sports scale builder
Tonybuilder's Avatar
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The first set of hinges took 5x as long to make as the second set, now that I know how to make them. I got the second set done in no time. It all went together pretty well. I did try the carbon fiber rod and it is working much better for the hinge pin. The 4-40 steel rod weighed in at 9g each and the carbon fiber rod weighs 2g so a savings of 15g. This bird is on a high fiber diet. I went ahead and made up some new longer radios sanding bars out of PVC. I glued in a handle so I can lay it on my knee and do so good sanding with them. I have 1/2-3/4-1- 1-1/4 1-1/2 and 2 Im using 220 sand paper on them being there just for finishing. My favorite finishing sanding block is this old foam sanding block. Man does that block work great. Its warn enough that you cant really do any over sanding but it still has some grit to it.


The steps I am taking on the hinges goes as fallows; I first layout the location of the hinges. I then cut the slots for the tabs. Next I fit them and I make them a little loos so they can move around during the gluing in proses for proper alignment. Then I cut the hinge pocket in the control surface, once it is all sanded and the block fits nice and snug I give it a little more room for covering or finishing. I made up some sanding bars for sanding the inside of the pocket, also I sanded in a radios in the back wall of the pocket so the hinge block has plenty of room to rotate.
Next I install the blocks and fit the control surface on the jig so it is all perfectly alined. I use a steel rod to mark the hole location on the block then remove it and drill it on the press. So assembly is easiest to install the blocks detached from the elevator, then once the hing blocks are all in and rotating freely, (some sanding is required to get them all tuned up). Then plug them into the stab to check proper rotation of the elevator.


TB


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