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Jan 07, 2017, 05:10 PM
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stef France's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by JB_Jacobo View Post
There's no mistery here. Use some loctite and tighten it so it will be secured yet only so much that you will be able to spin the motor freely.
OK, thanks!
The concept is that the screws stay in place only by loctite and not by being tightened ! This is a strange mecanical concept i think. Usually we put brace between the inner clip of the two ball bearing in that case.
Last edited by stef France; Jan 07, 2017 at 05:19 PM.
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Jan 07, 2017, 05:11 PM
Registered User
Well she's mostly all done, just waiting on proper props and a new camera...dont want to pull the camera/vtx off my tiny whoop.

I ended up going with the frsky ultra lite rx and put it in the foam under the FC. This allowed for a real clean build!

LOS test coming soon.
Jan 07, 2017, 05:52 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobepine View Post
What's wrong with yours? Stock BF PIDs work fine for us.

Best,
Chris
So i have spent the evening buggering about.

I made sure everything was flashed and connecting, i had no issues there!
So i updated the pico from 3.0.1 to 3.1 RC4
I reflashed all the ESCs ( i had done it last night but i thought it wouldn't do any harm, i reflashed them again after DSHOT refused to work but it made no difference)
I selected DSHOT 600 and one of the 20amps refuse to initialise, the rest work flawlessly which is a shame i'd like to have tried DSHOT but i'm on multishot and its working
Redid my Throttle Cal (multiple times)

its dark o'clock here now so i will give it a quick test in the morning and see if that had made any difference at all.

I've held it in my hand and armed it and it seems better than it did last night!
props aren't going as mad as they were last night!!
Last edited by Fletch79; Jan 07, 2017 at 06:00 PM.
Jan 07, 2017, 06:06 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobepine View Post
Thank you guys!
Thank you too that was fun. I was #42 and thought it was a lock.
Jan 07, 2017, 06:18 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletch79 View Post
So i have spent the evening buggering about.

I made sure everything was flashed and connecting, i had no issues there!
So i updated the pico from 3.0.1 to 3.1 RC4
I reflashed all the ESCs ( i had done it last night but i thought it wouldn't do any harm, i reflashed them again after DSHOT refused to work but it made no difference)
I selected DSHOT 600 and one of the 20amps refuse to initialise, the rest work flawlessly which is a shame i'd like to have tried DSHOT but i'm on multishot and its working
Redid my Throttle Cal (multiple times)

its dark o'clock here now so i will give it a quick test in the morning and see if that had made any difference at all.

I've held it in my hand and armed it and it seems better than it did last night!
props aren't going as mad as they were last night!!
Im also having an issue running dshot600 its a no go on the piko. I bench tested with a dodo and dshot worked fine, so it has to be something with the the piko BF firmware. Ill play around with it a bit more and see if I can figure it out, might try rolling back the firmware to one of the first BF dshot firmware
Jan 07, 2017, 06:26 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by stef France View Post
OK, thanks!
The concept is that the screws stay in place only by loctite and not by being tightened !
Think of BLUE loctite as a 'weak CA.' And it's not that weak either! A soft screwdriver or screw head will not disassemble easily.

Think of RED loctite as... no, don't think about it. It's meant for permanent assemblies. It can be disassembled but that's pretty much for emergencies. In the cases of CF plates and small electric motors, disassembly would destroy the parts.

Test it yourself. Fasten some scrap parts together with the blue, let it set properly, 24 hrs, and see what it takes to disassemble the parts.
Jan 07, 2017, 06:30 PM
Sticks and Nuts
JB_Jacobo's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by stef France View Post
OK, thanks!
The concept is that the screws stay in place only by loctite and not by being tightened ! This is a strange mecanical concept i think. Usually we put brace between the inner clip of the two ball bearing in that case.
Most manufacturers do it this way. They just use very strong adhesive
Jan 07, 2017, 06:30 PM
Registered User
15-20sec on the smal bolt heads with a solder iron tip, loosens red loctite pretty good
Jan 07, 2017, 07:01 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletch79 View Post
So i have spent the evening buggering about.

I made sure everything was flashed and connecting, i had no issues there!
So i updated the pico from 3.0.1 to 3.1 RC4
I reflashed all the ESCs ( i had done it last night but i thought it wouldn't do any harm, i reflashed them again after DSHOT refused to work but it made no difference)
I selected DSHOT 600 and one of the 20amps refuse to initialise, the rest work flawlessly which is a shame i'd like to have tried DSHOT but i'm on multishot and its working
Redid my Throttle Cal (multiple times)

its dark o'clock here now so i will give it a quick test in the morning and see if that had made any difference at all.

I've held it in my hand and armed it and it seems better than it did last night!
props aren't going as mad as they were last night!!
Found out some info, the piko doesn't work with Dshot out the box, you have to do this.

PIKOBLX - Re-map motor 1 to the PPM pin (same as MotoLab) and also disable motor 5-8 ("resource motor X none").
Solder a wire from Output #1 header pin to the PPM input header pin. Follow above and to re-map output type in CLI:
resource ppm none
resource motor 1 A07
resource motor 5 none
resource motor 6 none
resource motor 7 none
resource motor 8 none
save
To use BLHeli type in CLI: May not be required.
resource motor 1 A04
save
Jan 07, 2017, 07:49 PM
Registered User
@fletch79. I got Dshot600 working on the latest BF firmware. You have to copy and paste the above commands in cli. You also have to do the following on the hardware side.

Run a jumper wire from esc signal pad 1 to Uart3rx(ppm) pin.
Jumper the pads for sbus/ppm to ppm
If you were using uart3rx for your RX move that to Uart2rx.
Thats it!

Side note if you are using a ppm rx this will not work because esc 1 is now using the ppm pin.

Heres a picture of how I did this.
Jan 07, 2017, 07:52 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by bobepine View Post
Suki mentioned liking the Cyclone props best, I believe. He will correct me if I am wrong. Me, I like HQ props triblades best. Have not tried the Cyclones.

Best,
Chris
I use Cyclones too, they are amazing with the Oomph.
Jan 07, 2017, 08:08 PM
Team Armattan Tech
bmays's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrip2010 View Post
@fletch79. I got Dshot600 working on the latest BF firmware. You have to copy and paste the above commands in cli. You also have to do the following on the hardware side.

Run a jumper wire from esc signal pad 1 to Uart3rx(ppm) pin.
Jumper the pads for sbus/ppm to ppm
If you were using uart3rx for your RX move that to Uart2rx.
Thats it!

Side note if you are using a ppm rx this will not work because esc 1 is now using the ppm pin.

Heres a picture of how I did this.
I'm pretty picky about my work. You did a great job on this.
Jan 07, 2017, 08:38 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmays View Post
I'm pretty picky about my work. You did a great job on this.
Thanks man! Im pretty picky myself when it comes to building this stuff. This one took a bit of planning and tinkering but came out pretty good. I originally wired all the esc's up but didn't like the way the positive, negative, and signal wires came straight up so had to unsolder a flip the wires 45 degrees. China needs to learn how to not wick the solder up into the insulation so you can bend the wire freely at the pad lol! Oh and use soft silicone wire for the signal, and signal ground wire.
Jan 07, 2017, 08:39 PM
Registered User
That's exactly what i was thinking .... If I ever need anything built jrip has the job!
Jan 07, 2017, 08:50 PM
Epic Fail
bmwguru's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by jrip2010 View Post
@fletch79. I got Dshot600 working on the latest BF firmware. You have to copy and paste the above commands in cli. You also have to do the following on the hardware side.

Run a jumper wire from esc signal pad 1 to Uart3rx(ppm) pin.
Jumper the pads for sbus/ppm to ppm
If you were using uart3rx for your RX move that to Uart2rx.
Thats it!

Side note if you are using a ppm rx this will not work because esc 1 is now using the ppm pin.

Heres a picture of how I did this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmays View Post
I'm pretty picky about my work. You did a great job on this.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Fletch79 View Post
That's exactly what i was thinking .... If I ever need anything built jrip has the job!
I was gonna give props on the soldering skills as well, Wow!!


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