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Aug 12, 2019, 12:50 AM
Registered User
Originally Posted by Powernap
Bob, could be, could be

The crew of rescue boat showed huge interest in our heavy weather racing. It’s just amazing how well the boat handle 12-18m/s (approximately 24-36 knots)
I was just comparing to our DF rescue boat below . 25 to 30 knots … all the full size boats have scampered to shore so the RIBs have only us to look after! (you might have to click on the picture to see the rescue boat). I think yours is bigger!
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Aug 13, 2019, 11:08 AM
denisoni1's Avatar

DF65 Canadian Nationals - Sep 20-22!!

Updated link to NOR -

Event sponsored and prizes provided by:

Originally Posted by denisoni1
Plans are now set for the DF65 Canadian National Championship Sept 20-22 at Imperial Landing in Steveston BC hosted by Steveston RC Sailing Club. Mark your calendars and plan to attend. Follow the Notice of Race link below for complete info and registration.

Friday Sept 20 - Event Check-in, measurement, practice racing
Sat. Sept 21 - Racing starting at 11:30am
Sun Sept 22 - Racing (last start no later than 3:30pm)

32 boat entry limit - yachts will sail in 2 heats of approx 16

Entry fee - $30 CAD includes 2 lunches. Registration now open!

Accommodation info available on request...we anticipate some billets being available as well..check with Don or Brian well in advance.

Notice of Race link:
Last edited by denisoni1; Aug 16, 2019 at 10:41 AM. Reason: Added sponsor logos
Aug 19, 2019, 04:28 PM
Registered User
Windward RC's Avatar

Intro to Racing Rules of Sailing by Patrick Rynne

Great intro to RRS video by our friend Patrick Rynne from the Miami RC Sailing Squadron using DragonForce 65s!
Effectively uses drone footage, video, animation, and easy to understand explanations to illustrate some of the basic situations we encounter in radio sailing.

Intro to Racing Rules of Sailing (RC Version) (22 min 18 sec)
Last edited by Windward RC; Aug 19, 2019 at 04:56 PM.
Aug 27, 2019, 09:29 PM
Lower AL
SeeMeDo's Avatar
Had a perfect day for some sailing, what a fun boat.
Dragon Force 65 DF65 Fun Sailing Part 2of13 25Aug19 (6 min 14 sec)

Aug 28, 2019, 05:50 AM
Registered User

Jib Boom Question

Earlier questions from Joe Bernfield

Chuck posted pics on the DF 95 FB forum (I don't belong or I'd ask there) of rigging the jib boom hook down line, and the jib sheet through the wrong deck eyelet when using the C and D rigs. You're supposed to use the 2 more aft eyes. I rigged my C and D sails correctly and all was well.

So I figured the same must apply to the DF 65, and tried to use the 2 more aft eyes. No go, the jib boom's are too long. So am I supposed to move the jib boom hook down line aft 1/2-3/4", cut off the jib booms, or ignore the rearward eyelets?

If option 3, then why are the 2 extra deck eyes there?
The additional eyes are available for those who what to sail their DF as an RG65 with different rigs. Often an RG65 rig with be much higher aspect and so the Jib foot will be shorter, requiring attachment to one of the other eyes. It is worth remembering that your DF65 hull and A, B, C rigs are RG65 class legal and you could also even add a Swing Rig and sail it as an RG65.
Aug 30, 2019, 02:59 AM
Registered User
Manu Simon's Avatar
Just a few pics of my DF65 under A+ Rig

I have several sailboats (DF95, IOMs , 10R) and I can't help thinking this one is one of the best looking , with perfect proportions....
Sep 01, 2019, 07:37 AM
Lower AL
SeeMeDo's Avatar
Next time the A+ is back in stock I'm going to order the rig. We had fun Sailing Friday in very light winds.
Sep 02, 2019, 06:39 PM
CAN 197
gadgetChris's Avatar
Originally Posted by denisoni1
As of today, there are 85 CRYA registered DF65's. Most are in BC and Ontario. If you are looking to join some racing, please pm me.
I'm in the GTA and looking into getting a DF65. I know of the metro marine modelers and where they sail.
Are there any other locations in the GTA, where people sail?
I guess the biggest problem would be the weeds in the water?
Sep 02, 2019, 07:54 PM
Registered User
Just purchased my first DF65! Thank you to everyone in this thread for sharing your experiences.
Sep 02, 2019, 07:57 PM
CAN 197
gadgetChris's Avatar

AAA NiMh batteries

Has anyone tried 5 AAA NiMh batteries in the DF65?
At 6V 800mAh and 55 gr. seems like a good alternative to LiFe?!
Last edited by gadgetChris; Sep 02, 2019 at 08:32 PM.
Sep 02, 2019, 09:10 PM
denisoni1's Avatar
Hi, here is their website -

Welcome to DF65 racing

Originally Posted by gadgetChris
I'm in the GTA and looking into getting a DF65. I know of the metro marine modelers and where they sail.
Are there any other locations in the GTA, where people sail?
I guess the biggest problem would be the weeds in the water?
Sep 09, 2019, 09:50 PM
Landlocked Sailing Addict

My Very First DF 65

Hi All

I've already got a DF 95 and I'm having heaps of fun with it. However I had never owned or sailed a DF 65. Apologies in advance for the lengthy post!

I live in a country area in Australia, so I have to travel quite a distance to go sailing and racing with other skippers. Recently another skipper and I discovered some (full sized) sailors from an inland yacht club had gotten into model yachting and they had chosen the DF 65, primarily because of its compact size and very cheap entry costs. They were sailing relatively close (about an hour and a half's drive away from where I live).

My wife surprised me for my birthday. I found myself the proud owner of a DF 65 (V6). I also got myself an A+ rig.

A couple of days before the sailing meet, I got into setting the DF 65 up. Having worked with the DF 95 previously, here's a few things I learnt and did:

1. Both the DF 95 and DF 65 are at their best when they are set up meticulously according to the instructions supplied.

2. I substituted the supplied dyneema line for 0.8mm braided dyneema fishing line on all rigging that used bowsies - that helps stop the bowsies from slipping under load.

3. I replaced the supplied mainsail bridle ring (which has a rectangular cross section) with a same sized round cross section ring in stainless steel (this can be got at any decent fishing tackle shop). This stops the mainsheet from fraying and eventually breaking.

4. I used quick setting CA glue to secure any knots. You have to be very careful using this stuff, otherwise you'll make a mess - especially if it gets on your skin. Slower setting CA gel glue (e.g. UHU) is a lot easier to work with, but things take a bit longer to do.

5. For the backstay and the jib boom topping lift I used an "improved cinch" knot (see ). For all other tie-offs, I used a bowline knot. With a bit of fiddling you can make a bowline very compact - for me it is the most compact knot where this is important.

6. I put a metal ring onto the bottom of the backstay (where it hooks onto the hull backstay fitting). It's easier to hook the backstay on under load and it stops the fraying effect you tend to get if you're trying to put a soft rope loop under tension onto a metal hook.

7. When knotting off the tail rope on the bowsies, I used a "figure 35" knot (which is a modified "figure 8" knot). Hint: When securing this knot with CA glue, keep it well clear of the bowsie until the glue sets - otherwise it will bond to the bowsie, and you'll have to throw the bowsie away if you ever need to replace that particular piece of line.

8. You need to get the jib boom for the A+ rig a little lower to the deck (shorten the length of the pull down rope from 50mm to 47mm). There is not much length between the top of the A+ jib and the masthead jib hoist - you need to get as much length there as you can to maximise adjustability of the forestay length and jib luff tension. Dropping the height of the jib boom above the deck a little helps. Don't drop the boom too low, otherwise it will foul on the deck rigging or the deck itself if you let out the jib topping lift.

9. The jib boom of the A+ rig is longer than for the A rig. You need to increase the distance of the pull down rope attachment (from the front fitting) from the recommended 63mm to about 71mm (otherwise the jib boom will strike the mast). This means you also have to move the jib sheet position back to about 168mm from the front fitting.

10. Do a bit of homework beforehand when deciding on rigging lengths/settings. In addition to the excellent settings advice supplied in the set-up instructions, there is a lot of valuable information by some top skippers on DF 65 tuning and rig settings published on the internet.

11. When you have decided on basic rigging lengths/settings (especially forestay and backstay lengths - as these govern mast rake and rigging tension), set up the bowsie positions so that the bowsies are in a mid-way position for these settings. This maximises adjustability either side of the recommended settings.

12. Put tell-tales/streamers on your sails - they are incredibly useful. You can use cassette tape ribbon fastened on with light adhesive nylon patches. I put one set on each sail at about the height of the lower flow stripe. Put one slightly below the other so you can easily see the streamers on both sides.

13. The sail sheeting travel should be 115mm. The rudder should not throw more than about 35 - 40 degrees off centre under maximum rudder input.

So, the very next day I took my new toy for a sail. I turned everything on, tested the controls then put her in the water. Immediately, she was sailing rather well. Within a couple of minutes I was at the starting line lining up for my very first race. I then won my very first race! I won quite a lot of races through the day - however it was all very close and even a little mistake could knock you out.

We were sailing A+ rigs in shifty variable conditions (with wind strengths from becalmed to a couple of knots over the top of the A+ rig range). Races were won by working the wind shifts to advantage - there was virtually no difference in boat speed. (I was using Joysway sails, some other skippers had after market rigs).

With its deep keel (in relation to its hull length), the DF 65 is easy to stall out during tacks. The boat needs to be driven through the tacks smoothly otherwise it winds up "in irons". However, tacking too slowly for the conditions will do this too. It's a bit of a balancing act.

The combination of short hull, deep keel and tall rig also means the boat wants to round up quickly when hit by a gust when going to windward. That slows the boat down quickly. The trick here is to anticipate the gust and apply gentle counter steering as the gust hits (and the boat leans over more), then back the steering off once the boat settles down.

The smallish rudder will stall very quickly if used ham-fistedly. Sometimes, it will then suddenly bite in again. So this means you may go from having no steerage to the boat suddenly turning on a dime. This will happen especially when the boat is going fast - on a reach or a run. Again prior anticipation and gentle initiation of rudder input minimises this. A stalled rudder will slow the boat down considerably.

The hull design seems to have a tendency to tail drag. Even in the stronger stuff, I kept my battery in the forward position (attached to the keel trunk). It made the boat go better upwind, and the reasonably full bows meant that nose diving when pressed downwind could be controlled if the boat was allowed to accelerate smoothly in the gust (rounding up a little as the gust starts, then bearing away as it really hits helps here).

I'm quite impressed with the DF 65. I think it's probably the best value for money if you want to start model yacht racing. The stock sails are equal to anything I've seen thus far. However the precise tuning and handling are such that proper set-up and proper boat driving are well and truly rewarded. This is a boat that's basically easy to set up and sail, but still challenging to sail very well. I was able to get a boat pretty much off the shelf (including stock sails) and sail on equal terms with skippers who had after market set-ups. If the boat wasn't sailing properly, it was my fault (something generally very cheap to fix!! )

While the DF 95 is faster and smoother to sail (and enjoys the same even racing due to a similar rules philosophy to that of the DF 65), it is less compact and considerably more expensive.

Ask me which one I prefer? Well, these boats are different. I really like the DF 95 for its raw performance (especially in strong conditions). However the DF 65 is more attractive to newer sailors and it's easier to get a fleet going. I'm gonna have lots of fun with both!


Last edited by Karlthevet; Sep 10, 2019 at 07:21 PM.
Sep 11, 2019, 09:42 PM
Registered User

Dragon Force 65 Sails

Midwest Model Yachting is now offering custom Dragon Force 65 sails..

The sails have:
Eyelets installed in head, tack, clew and luff of mainsail attachment points.
Fiberglass batten material with 3 battens on main.
Class legal head reinforcement batten
Forestay wire installed
Numbers applied
Class insignia applied
Country code applied
You choose the luff, corner colors(multi colored corners if you like), your sail number and country.

Here is a link:

Midwest Model Yachting, LLC
Sep 17, 2019, 10:04 PM
Registered User

Transmitter intermittently beeps

What causes the transmitter to intermittently beep? I have the J4C05 stock V6 transmitter. The US dealer said it would beep when inactive to let you know the transmitter is still on but others seem to think it is a low battery warning. It beeps intermittently when I'm sailing. I can change the batteries and it still happens. Its driving me crazy. Any help would be appreciated before I tear this thing apart...
Sep 18, 2019, 09:55 AM
John - In my private capacity
hiljoball's Avatar
The beep is a 'feature' that is probably aimed at flyers where flight durations are short, and I think it is to remind them that they have not turned off the radio when they shut down the plane.

I agree that for sailors, it is an annoying nuisance - I leave my Rx and Tx on all day at events, and during my off-heats, the Tx is beeping away due to non-use.

There may be a fix to stop the beep, but that may also affect the low battery warning - perhaps someone has some suggestions.


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