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Mar 27, 2013, 09:24 PM
Flying Zayin
Cathay Stray's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glacier Girl
I ordered the kit version. What I got appears to be an ARF+
it's already got the servos installed, the motor too. But wait there's more! In a little white box, along with the props, bolts, and such was another motor/mount and 4 servos. Not to be confused with the bubble wrapped motor/esc/servos I had ordered to install in the kit.
So what's the problem? - Enjoy!
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Mar 28, 2013, 05:25 AM
Kamikaze Ace
Glacier Girl's Avatar
No problem, just weird getting a double back up of electronics. Hmm, maybe they know about my flying history...

Okay then how about this. The fuse, at least from what I understood is a version # ?
No internal foam supports/bulkheads like the latter is supposed to have.
Yet no "trench" in the bottom rear of the fuse for a CF rod.
Has the clear canopy, with pilot, 3 pieces.
Servos are mounted behind the wing instead of forward.

Not complaining, I was planning on stripping it before building, just threw me off from what I had planned.
Mar 28, 2013, 06:16 AM
Registered User
Thread OP
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glacier Girl
Yet no "trench" in the bottom rear of the fuse for a CF rod.
.
Just cut or melt in your own trench. I cut one in before gluing the halves together.
Mar 28, 2013, 09:16 PM
Registered User
I bought a kit from a private sale, and it is missing the carbon spar. Would any of you know what the diameter is?
Mar 30, 2013, 05:29 PM
Kamikaze Ace
Glacier Girl's Avatar
The stock joiner spar was 5mm diameter, and 11 3/4" long, in mine.

I used a 42" / 5mm CF tube to replace it.
Mar 30, 2013, 05:53 PM
Kamikaze Ace
Glacier Girl's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZaksterBlue
Just cut or melt in your own trench. I cut one in before gluing the halves together.
Already done and then some. Twin 3mm CF spars from the front of the wing to the tail.
And 1mm x 10 mm CF planks (3) from the wing to the nose to protect it. Sides and bottom.

CF rods in the H and V stabs.
Like said replaced the stock spar with a 42" CF tube.

All internal to keep it clean looking.

Came out nice, 30 oz, with a 3S3000 NanoTech pack, no weight needed to balance.

Even snuck in four high power 12 volt LED's for night flights. 2 to light up the wings, 1 in the belly, and 1 in the nose.
Mar 30, 2013, 06:03 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by Glacier Girl
The stock joiner spar was 5mm diameter, and 11 3/4" long, in mine.

I used a 42" / 5mm CF tube to replace it.
Thanks for the reply and letting me know. Have to order a 5 mm piece of carbon rod.
Apr 22, 2013, 07:38 PM
Registered User
Hi Guys, thanks for your posts, maidenīs and reviews.
Last Sunday I maidened my 1.1, and I am super impressed!
I built the nutball and f22 swappables from flitetest with not a lot of sucess, and after the bixler... I think I am not going to fly them again!
Itīs such a wonderful plane! Super fast and slow, very docile in strong wind...

I have been reading a little bit about dynamic soaring, and because where I live is always windy I want to make the most of each battery...
The only problem I got is that hard dives are required in order to gain speed, together with high G turns...
http://people.eku.edu/ritchisong/albatross_soaring3.gif

Do yo think the stock 1.1 will resist? Should I change the central CF for a 5mm 42mm rod? What bothers me is that a hollow CF rod might behave worst (even if itīs longer) than the short solid one from the stock configuration... somebody has done a comparison?
Any other reinforcements for high speed and high G turns?

Thanks to all for the answers!
Pankel
May 26, 2013, 11:25 PM
Registered User
FWIW, I got a Bixler 1.1 Kit version from the US warehouse about a month ago, and neither the elevator nor rudder pushrod are long enough to require linkage stoppers. Strangely though, the kit didn't include clevises for them either. I had a couple spares and they work fine.

As far as the wing bolts, I can't comment, because I went straight with the rubber band method of attaching the wings.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mac50L
What is not mentioned on this thread and is mentioned in the other Bixler V1 thread that now includes the V1.1 are the "problems".

Wing bolts too short - should be 70 mm long or at least the aft one should be. We're now using threaded rod with a nut soldered on 10 mm down from the top. This allows easy removal of the bolt by grasping the piece above the nut. Cut rod to 80 mm long.

Elevator pushrod too long - use a linkage stopper. If you cut the pushrod there won't be any thread left for the clevis. The rod goes out way past the horn.

I've worked on three V1.1s recently so have found those problem on all 3.

Not problems -

The horns have 4 holes and only 2 screws per horn are supplied. This is enough.

The motor mount - suggest not gluing it but using 2 screws and making a wooden outside washer/plate for the heads of the screws to press against below the motor.

Motor cowl - fit a magnet and allow easy removal.
May 27, 2013, 09:08 AM
Registered User

25 Flights on my Bixler 1.1


Bixler 11 25th Flight (12 min 45 sec)


I have not had to make any repairs or change any of the electronics.

David
May 27, 2013, 07:14 PM
Registered User
where can i pick up a couple of servos for bixler1.1
May 27, 2013, 08:01 PM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by roadtrekker
where can i pick up a couple of servos for bixler1.1
Down the road, take the first on the left, second on the right and the shop which stocks servos is now in front of you - isn't it?

So what part of the world do you think you are in?

My directions are perfectly correct when applied to where I've decided you should start from. Not my fault you aren't there.

On the other hand, why not buy from where you got the Bixler from?
May 28, 2013, 08:00 AM
Kamikaze Ace
Glacier Girl's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by pankelbru
Hi Guys, thanks for your posts, maidenīs and reviews.
Last Sunday I maidened my 1.1, and I am super impressed!
I built the nutball and f22 swappables from flitetest with not a lot of sucess, and after the bixler... I think I am not going to fly them again!
Itīs such a wonderful plane! Super fast and slow, very docile in strong wind...

I have been reading a little bit about dynamic soaring, and because where I live is always windy I want to make the most of each battery...
The only problem I got is that hard dives are required in order to gain speed, together with high G turns...
http://people.eku.edu/ritchisong/albatross_soaring3.gif

Do yo think the stock 1.1 will resist? Should I change the central CF for a 5mm 42mm rod? What bothers me is that a hollow CF rod might behave worst (even if itīs longer) than the short solid one from the stock configuration... somebody has done a comparison?
Any other reinforcements for high speed and high G turns?

Thanks to all for the answers!
Pankel

Yep. Been there, done that, got the scars to prove it.
I originally went with the 42" tube, and used a slightly larger tube, bout an inch long, over it for a centering device. And I broke 3 of those set ups in high G pull outs, and/or less then perfect landings. Everyone broke right at where the larger tube went over the smaller one.

Last time I went with a 40" tube, with a 40" rod inside that, no centering part.

Grandson put it into the trees hard. Split the left wing from the spar back to the TE, and ripped the right wing in half bout 2" from the fuse. Didn't break the spar though.

Funny just thought of something I found when repairing it, yep it's still flying.

On one of the wings, where the stock CF tube is factory installed/buried, one side had the CF tube flush with the inside end of the wing. On the other side, there was a 1/4" wide/tall aluminum ring that sat flush and then the CF tube was after it. Not sure what that was all about.
May 31, 2013, 12:06 PM
Foam Wrecker
BillBlair's Avatar
Does this mount fit correctly in the 1.1 or not? There are conflicting comments under "Discussion", one claiming it fits perfectly, another claiming that it doesn't:

https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=35035
May 31, 2013, 09:58 PM
Kamikaze Ace
Glacier Girl's Avatar
Bill from what I read, it may have been more of operator error in assembling it.
Dry fit and check if you buy one, before gluing together. Would let you then adjust for a perfect fit.

Or as simple as that is, build your own. Easy enough to do, and you could come up with a better way of mounting it then a couple of rubber bands. Tongue in the front and one screw into a piece of lite ply glued to the fuse, I would think would be a lot better.


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