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Feb 21, 2013, 04:55 PM
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Build Log

Flyguy 62 Version 2

RC Superman over San Diego by Otto Dieffenbach (0 min 35 sec)

Adizero Flying Golfers at Torrey Pines (5 min 10 sec)

Ironman 3 Flying : Flyguy 62 Version 2 by Otto Dieffenbach (2 min 52 sec)

Ironman 3 Flying Flyguy FPV at Dave's Beach by Otto Dieffenbach (0 min 34 sec)

History: Flyguy™ came into being after a visit to my local hobby shop where one of the workers showed me a 30 second clip of an RC flying man. I had seen human shaped balsa gliders in the early 60’s and decided I wanted to design and build a flying person while keeping it inexpensive, simple to build and easy to fly.

That was 2 years ago and now I have about 6 variations of the basic Flyguy and have personally built 15. They are being flown by modelers worldwide. A video of my personal Flyguy dressed as Superman went viral and lead to many national interviews and corporate events.

Flyguy is easy to build and will fly great if you follow the build log; deviate and you may have problems. You can scratch build Flyguy or order Depron and ply cutouts through

This Build Log is a “how to” step by step process of building a 62” Flyguy 62 Version 2. Version 2 incorporates 3mm Depron laminated with 1/16” plywood making Flyguy extremely rugged. The overall shape has not changed from Version 1 and if you would like to upgrade a Version 1, the plywood parts are available from

I use only hobby store available parts in this build log. Additionally, I demonstrate how to personalize the head graphics. You will notice that I modified the cutouts to look like Ironman so that I could add him to my personal fleet. If you follow this process, you will have a durable Flyguy that will fly well.

In addition, if you happen to get out to the Los Angeles or San Diego area and would like a RTF Flyguy 62 Version 2, I now offer them flight tested, less battery and transmitter for $700. Inquire through

Happy flying.

New as of February of 2014 is Flyguy 62 Version 3, a fully aerobatic version of Flyguy. Version 3 is designed for the intermediate to advanced flyer where Version 2 is designed for anybody that can fly a trainer. Version 3 has twin motors for yaw control and is capable of inside and outside loops. Rolls are very axial and yaw control allows slow and point rolls. Here is a link to the build log:

Flyguy 62 Version 3 Fully Aerobatic with Twin Motors by Otto Dieffenbach (1 min 11 sec)
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Nov 04, 2014 at 11:50 AM.
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Feb 21, 2013, 04:56 PM
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Step 1

Flyguy is not a slow-fly plane like most Depron foamies; he is more like a balsa shoulder wing trainer. Make sure you do not reduce the prop pitch for slow-fly; he needs to move through the air for effective control.

What you will need. Feel free to substitute with equivalent:


A Transmitter that can mix Elevator and Ailerons, Pitch and Roll, for elevons (most have this feature)
E-flite Power 10 motor
Master Airscrew 10x7x3 three blade propeller
Prop adapter
40 amp ESC
3s 2200 mah 20c battery (Turnigy is $10)
2- Hitec HS-81 servos
AR400/500/600 Spectrum receiver or radio compatible receiver
Two 10 cm servo extension pigtail for ESC connection

Alternate Motors:
Turnigy D3536/8 1000KV Brushless Outrunner Motor $16.90

Scorpion 3014 1200KV with cut down Parkzone Bf-109 3 blade prop
Master Airscrew 9x7x3 3 blade
50 amp ESC for this motor

Airframe Flyguy 62 Version 2 cutouts or cut your own
” or 5mm plywood (motor mount)
Parkzone Bf-109 flap hardware set, PKZ4921
4- Small Dubro hinges (comes in pack of 6)
1/8” carbon fiber tube, 40” long
0.024 x 0.121 x 40 inch Carbon fiber strip
2- Music wire 1mm
Gorilla Glue
Foam Safe CA with accelerator
5 minute epoxy
2 zip ties
Foam mounting tape
2-3 mm heat shrink tubing


Sharp knife
Razor saw
Sanding block with 150 grit paper
Flat table/work bench
Hand saw or scroll saw to cut plywood (if you choose to personalize the head)
Small Philips head screwdriver
Pliers and wire cutters
T-pins or equivalent
File (to bevel identified slots)

Finishing (optional)

4 sheets of glossy inkjet photo paper (digital camera, printer, computer, PowerPoint)
Rust-oleum spray paint, large cans $3.77 (many colors, Home Depot)
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Apr 09, 2013 at 12:23 AM.
Feb 21, 2013, 05:08 PM
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Step 2

If you cut the parts yourself or order cutouts from the second step will be to create the laminated parts. These have been added to Version 2 to make Flyguy 62 rugged. The laminations are 3mm Depron sandwiched between two pieces of 1/16" plywood. I used Gorilla Glue to laminate and used plastic bags to protect the table top and heavy weights while the glue sets. Once dry, sand and trim for assembly. You will have two front body sides, the lower head and the motor support cross member.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Feb 21, 2013 at 08:08 PM.
Feb 21, 2013, 05:11 PM
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Step 3

Take a sharp knife and separate the parts from the shipping sheets. Save the scrap. Lightly sand the edges in preparation for assembly.
Assemble the sides and center body plate. I use foam safe CA with accelerator but Gorilla Glue will do. I use disposable gloves to protect the working surface.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Feb 21, 2013 at 08:08 PM.
Feb 21, 2013, 05:16 PM
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Step 4

With Foam Safe CA or Gorilla Glue, attach the laminated front body side parts to the body sides.

Although I try to avoid carbon to reduce costs, I found that it adds a lot to Flyguy. The cutouts come with the channels routed for the breast plate and the arm/top plate carbon tube. I take the 40 inch long 1/8 inch diameter tube and cut the length for the breast plate. Glue it in place with CA and then cut the remaining tube in half. I then take each half and glue them into their channels in the arm plates so that they meet in the center. I then glue the two arm/top plate halfs together.

It is time to determine if you will modify Flyguy to a distinct outline. I decided to build Ironman 3 and modified the shape of the cutouts. Some places I added with scrap and some places I removed material, but still a Flyguy. In the build log I have used pictures from the original Version 1 build for clarity.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Feb 21, 2013 at 05:55 PM.
Feb 21, 2013, 05:25 PM
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Step 5

You can see that I am building both the 46 inch and 62 inch Flyguys together as Ironman. I have found that thrust line is very important to having a great handling Flyguy. The cutouts are set at 5 degrees down thrust vector, an increase of 1 degree from my original 4 degrees setting. I have experimented with up to 8 degrees, but 5 is the best. It is also important to have 2.5-3 degrees of right thrust vector. You will shape the motor cross member support to achieve this during the build. In the end, the tip of the motor will be raised up and to the left since we have a pusher configuration.
Feb 21, 2013, 05:31 PM
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Step 6

Mark the sides as a left and right. Mark the slots that correspond to the center body tabs. Bevel the marked slots with a file or knife and bevel the breast plate slots so that the plates fit at 15 degrees off perpendicular. To bevel the laminated slots I used my Dremel with a 1/8" drill bit as a router.

Cut the tabs on the outer center body parts to 1/8 inch long. Trial fit into the sides. The slots for these pieces are NOT beveled. These pieces will be glued into the sides at 90 degrees.

Trial fit all the major parts together before assembly.

Building tip: From scrap Depron, I cut two right triangles with one side 2" and the other 7.5". This will give you a 15 degree angle and a 75 degree angle.
Feb 21, 2013, 05:42 PM
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Step 7

If you will be personalizing Flyguy, you will need to take head shots with your head looking up. You will need a front, side and back and a program like PowerPoint to enlarge or shrink the images. I use a plain background like a door.

You will need to size the head shots to fit the Depron cutouts. I use PowerPoint and print on glossy inkjet photo paper. Save the PowerPoint sized images for future replacement of images on Flyguy. For the side shot, I flip the image to insure the same outline. For the front and back, trim to the same outline and then draw the outline on the Depron. Note that you will now have a top and bottom side of the top plate. Trim the Depron to the image outline. Head graphics should be applied after build completion.

Note these pictures are from the Version 1 build and have the Depron lower head. Version 2 has the laminated lower head and will have to be cut to shape with a scroll saw or Dremel.
Feb 21, 2013, 05:51 PM
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Step 8

I use carbon strip to strengthen the horizontal and vertical feet. As shown, I make a knife slit using a straight edge and insert/glue the carbon strip with CA. I put a 10" strip in the foot control surface and a 8" strip in the side of the leg. This keeps the lower leg from bending or deforming over time.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Feb 21, 2013 at 06:03 PM.
Feb 21, 2013, 06:10 PM
Thread OP

Step 9

The next step is to hinge the surfaces to the outer leg pieces. I use Dubro hinges but you can use CA hinges, if you prefer. Instead of gluing the hinges to the Depron surface, as I did in Version 1, I just slit the Depron and insert the hinge securing it with CA. I also use some of the 1/16" ply scrap to make top and bottom control horn mounting surfaces directly over the Carbon Fiber stiffener.
Feb 21, 2013, 06:15 PM
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Step 10

If you're going to paint, this is the time to do it. I reassemble my Flyguy, without glue, and draw the paint boarders across the whole platform. I then disassemble the platform and paint each part. I am now ready for final assembly.

Note: Painting has taken up to 4 times the man hours to just assemble a plain Flyguy.
Feb 21, 2013, 06:18 PM
Thread OP

Step 11

Using Gorilla Glue or 5 min. epoxy, glue the lower head to the top plate. Use a 90 degree angle to position until dry. Apply a large glob of epoxy where the carbon tubes meet the laminated lower head. Note front cutout in lower head for future FPV key chain camera.
Last edited by Otto Dieffenbach; Feb 22, 2013 at 02:03 AM.
Feb 21, 2013, 06:20 PM
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Step 12

Attach the surface control horns to the elevons/feet. Note that both the 46" and 62" Flyguys are shown.
Feb 21, 2013, 06:23 PM
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Step 13

Glue the outer leg/elevon to the body sides. Use a right angle to insure it is perpendicular.
Feb 21, 2013, 06:35 PM
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Step 14

Cut and mount your motor on a 5mm or 1/4" plywood square. Set the motor with ply mount next to the laminated cross member support. Mark the center of the cross member and file a notch in the cross member the width of the motor mount to create 3 degrees of side thrust angle. If you painted the center plate different on the top and bottom, position the plate top side up. Glue the laminated motor support cross member to the center plate insuring the notch gives you right thrust vector and not left thrust.

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