Stand for Single side swing arm bikes - RC Groups
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Feb 16, 2013, 06:29 PM
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Stand for Single side swing arm bikes

What stand do you guys use for a Kyosho 1/8 HOR with the Atomic or Jena supplied SIngle sided swing arm?

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Feb 16, 2013, 07:09 PM
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Damn good question! Inwould love to know as well. Thanks everyone. Oh pictures too! Lets see lots of pictures of the stand in action
Feb 16, 2013, 08:10 PM
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Pic attached of my HOR Suzuki build in progress, fitted with SS arm, leaning against an empty lexan washing up liquid bottle - not an ideal solution!!!
Feb 16, 2013, 11:47 PM
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Man that black frame and sssa look sweet! Maybe I can build some kyosho bike stands for the SSSA and sell them for cheap? Who would be interested in one of those? What kind of material? Aluminum or clear plastic that you can also paint? What would the ideal price point be? 20 bucks? 15 bucks? Any lower and I would probably lose money unless all the materials were given to me free haha yeah right !
Feb 17, 2013, 12:00 AM
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$15-$20 sounds reasonable to me - my preference would be aluminium over plastic unless this pushes the cost to unreasonable/prohibitive levels.
Feb 17, 2013, 09:27 PM
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I'm thinking round bar type stands like the gpv-1's have but out of aluminum and if I could find a batch of the wheels they use or something similar even incorporate the wheels into the stands as well! That would be sweet for the realism aspect don't you think? I'm going to get to working on this now even if a bunch of people don't want them I still want one! Haha and I will probably made a front stand to match the rear. Aluminum racing bike stands for SSSA's here we come!
Feb 17, 2013, 09:32 PM
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Zander I wanted to ask you did you paint or dye your parts black?
Feb 18, 2013, 06:45 PM
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Painted, using semi gloss Tamiya spray paint. Lightly sanded the plastic first - use very light grade paper and wash in detewrgent, rinse, dry and ready to go.
Feb 23, 2013, 12:07 AM
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Excellent job! It looks very good. My only complaint about spray painting any kind of plastic is when you get a nick or deep scratch you can see the original plastic color bleed through. That's one of the reasons why I've started dying all my plastic parts. Also when you paint the rims the ca clue melts the paint and you have to be really careful not to get ca blue on painted parts. Ill get some pictures posted of some of my dyed parts. I use a very expensive automotive dye that soaks very deep into the plastic. It's extremely durable, doesn't show the base color when scratched or nicked, and extremely thin. Not that the plastic parts on our bikes are fitted with a few thousandths of an inch tolerance but paint can get kind of thick. Sorry for the long post I got a little carried away but again they look very good!
Feb 23, 2013, 07:02 PM
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Interested to see that - is it a messy process? I imagine that you dont want to be spilling that dye on your floors or getting on your clothes etc....

How expensive exactly?

One thing I have discovered (and I should have realsied) is that when sanding to key the surface for paint adhesion, use a very very very fine paper. I used 240 guage which is WAY too coarse and requires many paint coats to cover the rough surface that I ended up with.

The beauty of black though is that iut hides a multitude of imperfections and I also like the idea of a less than perfect finish in terms of absolute detail - many factory bikes look perfect but as the season progresses, rims are scratched as are frames, swing arms etc etc. Perhaps less so today when image and PR is everything, but in the era of the HOR bikes I think this is true.....
Feb 24, 2013, 10:23 AM
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It can get very messy. I used to dye plastics the way it's been done for many years which is to boil the parts in automotive dye just like any upholstery shop would when you wanted to change the color of your vehicles components or dash board or just freshen them up for a restoration but if your not extremely careful and the temp isn't perfect you can easily warp the parts especially smaller ones like every single part we use on our bikes lol but there's a new product that I've been using that works amazing maybe even better than the traditional boil and dye process. It's much more expensive compared to the older way but its not very expensive if that makes sense? The traditional way only costs about 10 bucks in materials and you could dye an entire dashboard if you had a pot big enough. This new product is about 50 bucks a bottle but it goes a long way and you don't have to worry about warping your parts or prepping them other than making sure they are clean. No sanding involved at all. You still have to be careful when your prepping the surface and make sure your work area doesn't have any dust and you have to be careful what you use to clean the surface as well. It's somewhat of a tedious process but I've got it down pretty well and I don't charge much to dye parts. I haven't really advertised my services on here because I've been doing a bunch of stuff for local guys but I suppose I can make an add on here. Pm me i can help you if you want to give it a shot
Mar 03, 2013, 02:20 AM
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Chris Nicastro's Avatar
In the US its called RIT Dye and you should be able to buy it at any supermarket. It will dye any nylon because it penetrates into the plastic. So all the gray parts on the HOR can be dyed but any ABS Styrene like the wheels cannot be dyed.
Its not that messy if you have ever colored Easter eggs you can do this... Lol dye a bike red or green or half and half!
Mar 03, 2013, 03:32 PM
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RIT dye is the old way that we used to dye parts. It requires boiling of the parts to allow the dye to soak into the pores of the plastic. It can get messy if your not careful and is a pita to get off but the new way we use to dye parts we do not use RIT dye, there's no boiling involved, but it's messier. All in all anything can get messy if your not careful but if you take the appropriate precautions there won't be a mess to worry about.

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