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Feb 20, 2013, 06:34 AM
Registered User
yea or when you cover it with white or orange you wont see it either lol. well i have a P-51 blue nose that i need to fix the wings on from last year. That was taking time on making new ribs and such and landing gear blocks. But i decided to start building this a little then get back to fixing that plane
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Feb 20, 2013, 09:36 PM
Just Another Brick in the Wall
kenh3497's Avatar
I hard a very hard time getting motivated to do anything earlier this winter. Now I have 5 projects in various states of repair/building etc with another on the way. I have a new wing for my CAP in the works (in my avatar) A C.G. Pitts S-12 rebuild, H9 Pulse XT40 (new firewall), Sig profile Ultimate build (new kit missing the bottom wing) Fliton Jumping Jack (needs a cowl) I will be getting a giant scale Mr. Mulligan (no idea what it needs)

I'm almost overwhelmed.

Latest blog entry: Second time around
Feb 21, 2013, 06:05 AM
Registered User
nice alot more than me. but building is fun. I got the first piece of the fuse glued together. I will work on it again tonight will post some pics
Feb 21, 2013, 09:51 PM
Registered User
ok got some more work done on the plane. I put the upper deck together a little. I started assembly of the side plates with the doublers on them. So far everything is going ok. the holes i had to drill in the support plates were to close to the edge. I ad to go back and apply CA to reinforce the wood on the edge of the hole. but so far so good
Feb 25, 2013, 06:23 PM
Registered User
started the fuse and got it some what together. Im going to have to stop sometime and figure out what motor and battery i want to use and build a battery shelf.

How do i calculate the correct motor for the weight of the plane?
Feb 25, 2013, 10:09 PM
Registered User
ok got some more work done on the plane. I put more of the fuse together and glued in the tubes for the rods for the tail. And i started the hinging process. I started with the elevators with the cross bar. I think i have it right. what do you guys think??
Feb 26, 2013, 05:22 AM
Registered User
gene6029's Avatar
You are moveing right along! Just a suggestion here. I noticed on the stabilizer you have diagonal braces in the corners. Thats fine, but try & keep both sides of your build symetrical in shape & type of wood you use. You will see the difference in shape thru your covering & if carried thru the entire build,( like on a wing) could cause one side of a model to become heavier than the other.....Gene
Feb 26, 2013, 06:51 AM
Registered User
you talking about my brace on the flap surrface yea i wasnt really paying close attension. I was just cutting and sanding and fitting braces, I didnt noticed i fliped it and the one ended up backwards.

Im trying to get the elevator hinges right, but that bar gave me some fits. I think i got it right. But i think im going to have someone look at it to make sure its ok before i glue it. Im using the dubro pin hindges not the CA. How would you glue them in place to make sure they hold correctly and will not back out?

Also I need to start working on the motor setup. Anyone have any insight on how to caculate correct power needed to fly the model. I want it to have nice power to be sporty and fun to fly. I dont want to fly it at almost full power. I like having the extra power incase i get into a sticky situation and need the power to get out. I was thinking the Power 46 motor with a 4s and something in the 13x? prop range. Will that be enough power to make it fly good. It says it makes up to 925watts of power but it doesnt say with what combination of batt and prop. I havent seen any newer conversions since 05 and its 8 years later and motors have changed alot. I need some insight on this please
Feb 26, 2013, 07:02 AM
ARFs Are Me
TomCrump's Avatar
I place balsa blocks, glued to the traing edge, where the hinges penetrate the surface. You can see one through the covering in this pic.

The block increases surface area, gining more purchase area for the glue to hinge joint.

In the pic, I used Robart hinges, but the principle is the same for flat hinges.

I use canopy glue to install my hinges, but epoxy works well, too.
Feb 26, 2013, 09:44 PM
Registered User
ok ive assembled the firewall. but before i glue it to the fire wall. Is it suppsto be angled down a little because of the thrust angle?? Also Since im going to use electric motor should i use the factory marked holes for my motor mount? I want to make sure its right before i glue in the fire wall
Feb 27, 2013, 07:03 AM
ARFs Are Me
TomCrump's Avatar
I don't fly electric, so I can't provide a definative answer. If it were glow, I'd build it per plans. I would assume it would be the same for electric.

For the motor mount, you'll need the one that you are going to use, and drill it for it.
Feb 27, 2013, 07:14 AM
Registered User
pda4you's Avatar
Thrust angles are the same for glow and electric. Mounting the motor differs so it is easiest to add the correct holes for your mount before putting the firewall in.

How are you mounting the motor - X mount with standoffs?
Feb 27, 2013, 08:44 AM
Visitor from Reality
Originally Posted by chaos2984 View Post
ok ive assembled the firewall. but before i glue it to the fire wall. Is it suppsto be angled down a little because of the thrust angle?? Also Since im going to use electric motor should i use the factory marked holes for my motor mount? I want to make sure its right before i glue in the fire wall
Do some doodling over your plan with your motor and sort out your motor mounting before you glue things like the firewall in. Your motor is going to be shorter than a glow lump, plus need entirely different mounting hole spacing to the engine mount the kit came with, or was designed for.

The easy ways out with an electric are either spacers - round metal or plastic tubes to move the motor's rear mount away from the firewall - or a commercial adjustable mount. The latter can look nice, but may not fit in the model's engine bay, so spacers are probably a better bet.

The ideal is to make a new firewall placed so that the prop rear face goes where it did in the glow case, but that can be difficult when working with a kit.

Lovely model, keep having lustful thoughts about this kit.

Feb 27, 2013, 10:02 PM
Registered User
Everything is going well so far. No building tonight was a late night at work. I was planing on using stand offs. The size isnt a problem I can tap the holes to the size i need. I have a full tap and die set at work. Where is a good place to get stand off's any know, if not ill have to do some research.
Feb 27, 2013, 11:09 PM
Registered User
I get my stand offs at Heads Up R C. They are actually cheaper than Lowes, even with shipping ($2.00) . John

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