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Old Feb 20, 2013, 07:34 AM
chaos2984 is offline
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yea or when you cover it with white or orange you wont see it either lol. well i have a P-51 blue nose that i need to fix the wings on from last year. That was taking time on making new ribs and such and landing gear blocks. But i decided to start building this a little then get back to fixing that plane
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 10:36 PM
kenh3497 is offline
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I hard a very hard time getting motivated to do anything earlier this winter. Now I have 5 projects in various states of repair/building etc with another on the way. I have a new wing for my CAP in the works (in my avatar) A C.G. Pitts S-12 rebuild, H9 Pulse XT40 (new firewall), Sig profile Ultimate build (new kit missing the bottom wing) Fliton Jumping Jack (needs a cowl) I will be getting a giant scale Mr. Mulligan (no idea what it needs)

I'm almost overwhelmed.

Ken
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Old Feb 21, 2013, 07:05 AM
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nice alot more than me. but building is fun. I got the first piece of the fuse glued together. I will work on it again tonight will post some pics
Old Feb 21, 2013, 10:51 PM
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ok got some more work done on the plane. I put the upper deck together a little. I started assembly of the side plates with the doublers on them. So far everything is going ok. the holes i had to drill in the support plates were to close to the edge. I ad to go back and apply CA to reinforce the wood on the edge of the hole. but so far so good
Old Feb 25, 2013, 07:23 PM
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started the fuse and got it some what together. Im going to have to stop sometime and figure out what motor and battery i want to use and build a battery shelf.

How do i calculate the correct motor for the weight of the plane?
Old Feb 25, 2013, 11:09 PM
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ok got some more work done on the plane. I put more of the fuse together and glued in the tubes for the rods for the tail. And i started the hinging process. I started with the elevators with the cross bar. I think i have it right. what do you guys think??
Old Feb 26, 2013, 06:22 AM
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You are moveing right along! Just a suggestion here. I noticed on the stabilizer you have diagonal braces in the corners. Thats fine, but try & keep both sides of your build symetrical in shape & type of wood you use. You will see the difference in shape thru your covering & if carried thru the entire build,( like on a wing) could cause one side of a model to become heavier than the other.....Gene
Old Feb 26, 2013, 07:51 AM
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you talking about my brace on the flap surrface yea i wasnt really paying close attension. I was just cutting and sanding and fitting braces, I didnt noticed i fliped it and the one ended up backwards.

Im trying to get the elevator hinges right, but that bar gave me some fits. I think i got it right. But i think im going to have someone look at it to make sure its ok before i glue it. Im using the dubro pin hindges not the CA. How would you glue them in place to make sure they hold correctly and will not back out?

Also I need to start working on the motor setup. Anyone have any insight on how to caculate correct power needed to fly the model. I want it to have nice power to be sporty and fun to fly. I dont want to fly it at almost full power. I like having the extra power incase i get into a sticky situation and need the power to get out. I was thinking the Power 46 motor with a 4s and something in the 13x? prop range. Will that be enough power to make it fly good. It says it makes up to 925watts of power but it doesnt say with what combination of batt and prop. I havent seen any newer conversions since 05 and its 8 years later and motors have changed alot. I need some insight on this please
Old Feb 26, 2013, 08:02 AM
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I place balsa blocks, glued to the traing edge, where the hinges penetrate the surface. You can see one through the covering in this pic.

The block increases surface area, gining more purchase area for the glue to hinge joint.

In the pic, I used Robart hinges, but the principle is the same for flat hinges.

I use canopy glue to install my hinges, but epoxy works well, too.
Old Feb 26, 2013, 10:44 PM
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ok ive assembled the firewall. but before i glue it to the fire wall. Is it suppsto be angled down a little because of the thrust angle?? Also Since im going to use electric motor should i use the factory marked holes for my motor mount? I want to make sure its right before i glue in the fire wall
Old Feb 27, 2013, 08:03 AM
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I don't fly electric, so I can't provide a definative answer. If it were glow, I'd build it per plans. I would assume it would be the same for electric.

For the motor mount, you'll need the one that you are going to use, and drill it for it.
Old Feb 27, 2013, 08:14 AM
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Thrust angles are the same for glow and electric. Mounting the motor differs so it is easiest to add the correct holes for your mount before putting the firewall in.

How are you mounting the motor - X mount with standoffs?
Old Feb 27, 2013, 09:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chaos2984 View Post
ok ive assembled the firewall. but before i glue it to the fire wall. Is it suppsto be angled down a little because of the thrust angle?? Also Since im going to use electric motor should i use the factory marked holes for my motor mount? I want to make sure its right before i glue in the fire wall
Do some doodling over your plan with your motor and sort out your motor mounting before you glue things like the firewall in. Your motor is going to be shorter than a glow lump, plus need entirely different mounting hole spacing to the engine mount the kit came with, or was designed for.

The easy ways out with an electric are either spacers - round metal or plastic tubes to move the motor's rear mount away from the firewall - or a commercial adjustable mount. The latter can look nice, but may not fit in the model's engine bay, so spacers are probably a better bet.

The ideal is to make a new firewall placed so that the prop rear face goes where it did in the glow case, but that can be difficult when working with a kit.

Lovely model, keep having lustful thoughts about this kit.

D
Old Feb 27, 2013, 11:02 PM
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Everything is going well so far. No building tonight was a late night at work. I was planing on using stand offs. The size isnt a problem I can tap the holes to the size i need. I have a full tap and die set at work. Where is a good place to get stand off's any know, if not ill have to do some research.
Old Feb 28, 2013, 12:09 AM
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I get my stand offs at Heads Up R C. They are actually cheaper than Lowes, even with shipping ($2.00) http://www.headsuprc.com/servlet/the...ffs/Categories . John


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