Vagharini N11 FPV 30" build. - RC Groups
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Jan 22, 2013, 10:19 PM
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Vagharini N11 FPV 30" build.

Last edited by jimmy boo; Apr 08, 2016 at 06:41 PM.
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Jan 22, 2013, 10:44 PM
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BTW what are recommendations for cutting foam board, because as you can see, mine is sketchy at best. Right now I have weights on a ruler. ruler and I cut the layer of paper, then cut through the middle, then cut the last piece of paper. Overall, I am still getting pretty jagged results. Anyone have a better way?

Jan 23, 2013, 06:45 PM
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bump. anybody?
Jan 23, 2013, 08:14 PM
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I'll try to chime in here, though I'm sure many will also have suggestions soon, so hang in there.

As for jagged edges after cutting foam? Most likely due to a dull cutting blade. Blades for my NT Cutter knife are one of the spares I heavily invest in . Make a cut or two and they are already dull. If your blade has several break away pieces, break off 2-3 sections and do a test cut on scrap. If it doesn't glide through nicely or it sounds crackly, then it's probably dull. Better off replacing it completely with a new blade piece. I go through blades worse then a baby with runs!! Another factor contributing to ragged edges on foam is the cutting surface. If it's soft wood, cardboard or something the blade can cut into as well, the knife doesn't have a smooth surface to follow and will be restricted by the rough cutting surface underneath. Investing in a good self-healing cutting mat is a good thing, considering it's usefullness for not just scratchbuilding but cutting other stuff on as well!

One thing I do, it;s just me, is I have 2 different types of cutters. A small one with a 45degree blade (super sharp this..) and a larger stanley type for balsa, ply or much thicker foam. I personally find that the two knives use blades of different thickness. The larger knife I make rough slices then fine tune with the smaller knife. But as far as scratchbuilding goes, I mostly use my NT Cutter.

Looking at your wing pics, are you trying to make an Armin type wing? If so, I would suggest folding a thinner depron over to create the wing surface rather than tape. The tape will flutter in the wind causing much turbulance on the wing surface.
Take a peep here and do a Google in Armin's a simple build for non and symetrical airfoils.

Another option which works wonderfully and many here will testify to it is the KF Airfoil. It adds a little more weight, but the rewards are aplenty. You get stiffness without resorting to thicker CF rods, easier to build as it's all flat, and it has worked on almost all types of builds here from pushers to gliders!!

Hope this helps and their just suggestions. You won't know till you try and thats the fun of scratchbuilding. Experimentation is the key to success as they say. Sometimes what one does seems to work while another tries and fails. But in the end like this forum, it shows what is possible adding to this huge encyclopedia of knowledge and info on building. Give us more details and pics and I'm sure more suggestions will come flooding in!!

Jan 23, 2013, 08:34 PM
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Hey Tim, thanks for the reply, I assume you mean a KFm-2. My idea is a bit closer to a KFM-3.

Anyways, I would like to say that I have completed my airframe for the most part. My #1 problem right now is glueing/taping. As of now I have a lot of problems with keeping it sturdy, and it seems like tape if my go to source

Anyways, When I was finished I got the CG correct by just adding some extra weight to the nose. Overall, This will happen anyway with a motor.

So, I went to my second story window and chucked it outside. The problem was that when I threw it, I angled it way to far down and I expected an immediate crash. NOPE! The plane corrected itself to just about even when it made contact with the ground. This meant over a twelve foot drop, it was able to correct.

Now, I did think this may have something to do with the tail heavy thing etc.

So on attempt two, I threw it a bit more even with the ground and saw if it pitch stalled. NOPE! It just went even with the ground at about a 45 degree angle took the ground. <--- Not great gliding characteristics, but proved that the first time was no fluke.

The other great point was that there was no rolling to either side, which means ailerons probably won't be necessary.

Now, The plane weights just over 250 grams bare frame. I need sudjections of electrons, ESC, Controller, Receiver, Servos + gear, propellor anything else. I want a full range controller of course.

Anyways, I am sure there is still a lot to come, but all questions, comments are open, please ask/tell.

Jan 23, 2013, 08:35 PM
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pictures. 30 inch wingspan.

can already see the wing is a bit angled incorrectly., fixing it right away!!!
Last edited by jimmy boo; Apr 08, 2016 at 06:28 PM.
Jan 24, 2013, 05:55 PM
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bump, electronics ideas?
Jan 24, 2013, 07:55 PM
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Hi jimmy boo, just wondering what you wish to haul up on the first flight? Will this be a prototype without any AP/FPV gear for a test run? Then later build an improved version to take the FPV gear? Depending on your FPV gear and it's weight, you may need a larger wingspan plane so it'll have less wing loading to haul the stuff up. Mostly slow kv motors with slow fly props in the 9-10" range should be ok for this size you have. But the final AUW and thrust to weight ratio plays a part here. If your going Rudder and Elevator only, a pair of 9g servos will do. Depending on your motor, err a little more on the ESC. But bear in mind all this adds to the final weight of the plane. What type of cam you wish to use?

Lastly, looking at your pics, you have the KF airfoil on backwards. The steps should be on the LE of the wing. Take a look and browse through the other FPV builds in this section or at the FPV threads. I always grab ideas and see what people have done and what works as well as pros and cons. I'm planning to build an FPV plane too, but would probably make it a 50" wingspan as I wish to carry a GoPro. To heavy a plane and the glide scope will be too quick as well as having to keep the speed up to fly her. Which is why gliders have long long wings for more wing area, less load and the ability to carry the weight being as slim as possible.

Anyone else out there have any ideas please chime in. I wish to learn more too!
Jan 24, 2013, 08:28 PM
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hahaha I found out about my airfoil yesterday night when I threw it out my window!!!! DUOUGHHH disaster. Aynways, when getting that fixed I can't believe my eyes on how amazing this plane flies. I truly wish you were here, I threw it from about 10ft elevation and it glided atleast 30ft. NOT TO MENTION THE 20MPH gusts. The way I got it to fly was to add 96 grams of weight to the nose, this helped the CG a lot and also proved that it can handle a large battery/minor fpv gear. I would like to thank everyone for the dihedral stuff, it crazy good. Even with the wind hitting it as a crosswind, not only did the plane not fold over once, it even turned to face the wind!!! amazing!!!

YOU GUYS ROCK, I wish you could see this plane, flies 10x better than my FMS easy trainer 800 just gliding that is!!!!
Jan 25, 2013, 11:30 PM
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bump, so I have the FMS model controller, but thats all i can use, because i want to keep the FMS in service... so does anyone have recommendations for battery, propellor, motor esc, ETC.

thanks in advance.
Feb 02, 2013, 06:42 PM
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hey guys, i thought die share a few facts about the plane, i ordered the parts from HBking the other week, no clue where they are... Anyways, I had a quick question, I bought this ESC from hobby king (see below) along with these servos, would this work with the receiver and transmitter from the plane,

hexTronik 24gram Brushless Outrunner 1700kv
HXT900 9g / 1.6kg / .12sec Micro Servo
TP Slow Fly propeller 8x3.8
Nylon XT60 Connectors Male/Female (5 pairs) GENUINE
Turnigy nano-tech 1500mah 2S 25~50C Lipo Pack
Turnigy 4mm Heat Shrink Tube - BLACK (1mtr)

^assuming this is my main setup, are all these compatible.

P.S. I still have buddy codes.

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