Originally Posted by Quad Head

I don't think you're supposed to supply power. Just signal and or signal and ground. Please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm getting ready to do the same thing.

You don't supply power to the Rx.
You have to solder (bridge) JP1 that supplies power to the Rx via the center pin.
That's it.

Bill

Originally Posted by bcollydas

You don't supply power to the Rx.
You have to solder (bridge) JP1 that supplies power to the Rx via the center pin.
That's it.

Bill

So dos this mean that its okay to leave all 3wires in when the JP1 is not bridged and the rx got an other power source??

Originally Posted by Jebus DK

So dos this mean that its okay to leave all 3wires in when the JP1 is not bridged and the rx got an other power source??

i just say not the red cable or middle one. I have no problem with the black and white connected on my VectorDD.

Originally Posted by Bricobrac

but if some of you are ready to listen my crap english accent and see my gizmo face, then, maybe i cna set this up one of these days..

Hi Fabien, your English is fine and no problem in understanding!

Best regards from Sweden.

/Janne
www.helikopterbild.se

But do you guys think that the red rx cable could lead to the jittering / vibration problems?

Originally Posted by Bricobrac

Hi,

i am making the video with the new GuI 2.04 next week and maybe ( i say maybe..).

Also, i might try to make a kind of live session on Ustream with Skype or twitter on the side to answer live questions on some week ends ( saturday evenings or friday evenings). That would be a first time for me to breadcast but could be helpful for the people who have really specific questions.

I'll need to prepare the hardware and the mini 3 axis gimbalf or go pro in order to cover all the aspects, but if some of you are ready to listen my crap english accent and see my gizmo face, then, maybe i cna set this up one of these days..

If anybody has any interrest, drop me a PM

BEst regards,
Fabien

Awesome. Your English is MORE than good enough Fabien. I really enjoyed your tuning video. It's the best one on the net!

Can you please explain more about the power settings? That's the only thing I didn't understand. There are 2 power settings. It would be great if you could explain this in detail as well.

Also, what can be done to remove the roll wobble when in fast forward flight? A friend is experiencing this. It would be good if you explained these types of scenarios as well.

Originally Posted by joebarteam

It is possible to feed in the gimbal signals from the flightcontroller to the alexmos controller. With those signals the alexmos controller also knows the copter angles and can use that to further fine tune the calculations.
Also it is needed I believe for the x and y follow modes.
If you have a very stable flying platform it is probably not needed, but for very dynamic flights with lots of strong tilt/roll it can help.

Can you please tell me how did you configure it? Because on my board it always caused terrible horizon drift - it is unusable.. I am using Naza with 3.14 firmware.. thank you!

Fabien,

Can you explain why its much harder to tune the pitch compared with the roll?

Camera is a GH2 with a 600g lens.

Br,

Mario

Originally Posted by holco

Fabien,

Can you explain why its much harder to tune the pitch compared with the roll?

Camera is a GH2 with a 600g lens.

Br,

Mario

Take one motor off.....

Has anyone here connected an analog joystick to their Alexmos controller? I was thinking of making a handheld rig with a small joystick to control tilt/pan.
I see on the schematics that one can connect it.
If anyone has; what kind of joystick? Some spesifics would be nice.

Mathias

Originally Posted by oterpoter

Has anyone here connected an analog joystick to their Alexmos controller? I was thinking of making a handheld rig with a small joystick to control tilt/pan.
I see on the schematics that one can connect it.
If anyone has; what kind of joystick? Some spesifics would be nice.

Mathias

Hi Mathias,
I'm working on the same matter.

I was thinking of using a Nunchuk and an Arduino Mini with MultiWii firmware configured as gimbal to steer the gimbal and the menu button.

But I must confess I didn't get very far...





If it works you could use the Nunchuk as a handle and the click buttons to switch between the profiles, calibrate the ACC und stuff.

In combination with a Sony Camera and a LANC module you could also use the joystick to zoom in/out, adjust the focus etc.

We only need someone to rewrite the MWC code so that the Arduino can work both as a gimbal and LANC controller.

It has nothing to with the two motor setup, the roll works perfectly

Originally Posted by bcollydas

Take one motor off.....

Just getting into the brushless gimbal thing here and have a Alexmos board on the way from Viacopter, as well as a pair of 2208 80T gimbal motors from getfpv.com.

Want to build a gimbal that is close to the cleanliness of the new Zenmuse H3-2D. It will not be as nearly integrated and it will be adjustable for balancing the camera.

One question at the moment that I have is; Does this gimbal controller have a lock mode to hold position (overriding the IMU) function?

Ken

Anyone else having trouble getting the new firmware to load?

Having a few problems with an extra alexmos board im using for 3rd axis, seems to work fine when its plugged in to the pc but when i disconnect & repower it seems to stay in initialize mode..ie. rapid green blinking? Any ideas, i am definitely writing/ saving the settings every time. Cheers SQ.