Radio help - RC Groups
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Jan 21, 2013, 08:20 AM
James Gang #3

Radio help

Ok fellas, I am looking to get a new radio system for my latest project, 2.4ghz of course. I would like to know what your choice is and why. Ease of programing, the best display screen, whatever, let me have it.... I'll probably look to get something by the end of the week. Thanks in advance for your input, Jim.
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Jan 21, 2013, 04:38 PM
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knighttwister's Avatar
hey Jim,
my advice is to go to the hobby shop of your choice ,(Galaxy) and physically handle the various choices and pick the one that feels best to you.
That will be the biggest difference between them.
Price is the other main concideration of course.
Number of channels you think you will need and programming that seems easier to understand than the others.
these are all the main reasons to choose. 2.4 is 2.4 and the airwaves can't tell the difference.
some have little things to get you to choose them above the others, but it is only fluff. the basics are all the same.
I hope this helps.
Jan 21, 2013, 05:29 PM
T.R. miller
tr miller's Avatar
we will have many people with the futaba 8fg super this year, with a lot of the same radio we can share info with each other. might be helpful
Jan 21, 2013, 07:43 PM
Chris Zangl, VAM President
Boom Strike's Avatar
What will your main use be? Small indoor or park flyer size planes or larger out door size like 32 or 40 size and up? Alot of the indoor guys use spectrum and JR, bit for the larger models I prefer Futaba.
Jan 22, 2013, 08:12 AM
James Gang #3
I will just be using it to fly airplanes. I have been leaning toward the Futaba 7c, or the 8 channel one. It comes with 4 digital servos, and receiver. I talked to Wade and got some really good advice. The Futaba 2.4 system has been around the longest, they even use it on construction sites, and seems to be the leader. The others seem to be just trying to catch up. Price really doesn't matter. I figure whatever I get is going to last alont time. It's going to be kinda weird because I have been using my JR 74 mhz for nearly 20 years and anything else seems to be confusing. I am not a real computer geeky guy, so the easier the better. It would be nice if the hobby stores would handle all the major brands so you could compare them side by side.
Jan 22, 2013, 09:04 AM
Chris Zangl, VAM President
Boom Strike's Avatar
I would say go with the 8fg, it has more features and some of the guys use it at the field, so that would be good if you have or need programing help.
Jan 22, 2013, 10:41 PM
Registered User
timflight1's Avatar
I don't know about all the other brands but I do know that I absolutely love my Hitec Aurora A9 transmitter. Only complaint is the antenna wire that goes from the module to the top of the transmitter. Seems like they could have enclosed this although a problem with the cable has never materialized. One feature I like about the A9 is the buddy box features where I can choose whether to activate both radios at the same time or go the traditional route with a switch. The dual control is great with young pilots / intro flights. The Hitec transmitter has an add-on called the HP-22 that allows you to update the firmware on your transmitter, module and receivers. There are also various telemetry solutions as well. The default telemetry option that comes with the A9 is the display of voltage left on your receiver pack. Now I could not imagine owning a radio that doesn't have this but I suspect they all do now.. Another consideration is how many receivers you eventually want to buy. If memory serves a common 7 channel receiver for JR or Futaba costs around $89 while the similar Hitec receiver runs around $69 with their minima(lightweight) receiver starting at $44. Doesn't matter if you are buying a few of them but I needed a bunch and the cost adds up. One other thing to consider is battery life. I usually end up talking to Wade about a battery upgrade for the transmitter. I know some radios now can accept LIPO (as can the A9), but I didn't go that route. Good Luck!
Jan 23, 2013, 11:43 AM
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knighttwister's Avatar
like i said, you will get all the advice you can ever use, but when it comes down to it, it is your choice. i wouldn't want to use one that feels awkward when you hold it
Jan 24, 2013, 10:09 PM
James Gang #3
Thanks for the great advice. I wish there was a hobby shop that had all the brands under one roof so I could compare..... Another question off topic. Does anyone use an rf choke ring on their long servo leads. The cub that I am working on has a gas engine and has aluminum struts and they recommend using them. Any thoughts?
Jan 25, 2013, 06:03 AM
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knighttwister's Avatar
does the engine have an electronic ignition or a magnito?
2.4 is pretty much immune, but you still need to keep rf away from radio components. do not use a metal throtle shaft to the carb, but if you do, make sure you use a non metalic connector on both ends such as a ball link. there are conversion kits for magnito ignitions out there now for around 70 dollars.
a power expander from smart fly will help greatly also. these take the power straight to the servo without going to through the receiver. it powers the receiver with 5 volts and filters the power the signal wire and is the only one from the radio that enters the expander. here is a link for more information.
I hope this helps
Jan 25, 2013, 04:19 PM
James Gang #3
The ignition is electronic. It is a Zenoah 20. Already got a nylon Golden-N-Rod hooked up to the carb.
Jan 26, 2013, 05:43 AM
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knighttwister's Avatar
just keep the receiver and any other electronics away from any ignition components and you will be akay.
Make sure you use heavy gauge servo wire. the twisted type is prefered.

what will you be using for fuel line? tygon will harden over time and you will be replacing it often.
i am using this with good results so far
Jan 26, 2013, 07:16 PM
James Gang #3
Thanks for the advice Jimmy, the blue fuel line sounds like a great idea. Here is a question for ya. What is the purpose of the air funnel on the carb and will the engine run well without it? The one on the Zenoah 20 sticks out alot and I don't want to hack up my cowl if I don't have to.
Jan 26, 2013, 11:22 PM
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knighttwister's Avatar
the velocity stack is there for trying to control the way air enters the carb. when the air comes around the cowl it can become turbulant. this is a poor way to try to control air entering the carb. it is better to just remove it. there is also another fix for turbulant air that affects fuel to air mix. below is an explanation i copied from a flying giants forum.

Hi try this as an alternative solution!
Carb balance
The carb has both a pump and a regulator. The pump is driven by crankcase pressure and is under the carb cover with one screw in the middle. The regulator is on the other side of the carb under the cover which is secured by four screws.
The regulator monitors the air pressure that the engine is drawing air from and compares it with the carb throat depression. As the throttle is opened the vacuum created in the carb throat pulls the diaphragm in opening a valve to increase fuel flow. This is simple and very effective. Until…..
If you have a trumpet drawing air from outside the cowl while the regulator monitors air pressure inside the cowl the regulator may become a little confused!
You may find that the motor runs OK on the ground but then struggles to take off. This is due to a pressure build up inside the cowl as the model accelerates. This pressure causes the regulator to richen the mixture.
Alternatively you may find it runs OK on the ground and in the air until you apply a lot of rudder. The engine goes sick when you feed in the rudder. This is because the air pressure on the outside of the cowl is changing but the regulator doesn’t see this. This causes the motor to go rich with one rudder input and lean with the opposite input!
OK the fix…
On the cover held with four screws you will see a small hole. Remove the cover and block the hole with soft solder. Now drill a hole on the flat part of the cover that is a nice tight fit for a short length of brass tube, the kind of tube found in small glow tanks. Push the brass tube into the hole and soft solder it. The tube should protrude about 10mm. Now clean up the inside of the cover before refitting it to the carb.
I now add a piece of fuel tube to the brass tube and run this out along the trumpet. I secure it to the trumpet with some insulating tape and cut it off flush with the face of the trumpet.
I position the tube at approx. 8 o’clock when looking down the trumpet from outside the model. This position will be close to ideal but a little experimentation with the exact location may help when you start using a lot of rudder!
This way the regulator is monitoring the air the engine is drawing

here is alink to how it is done

the idea is for the regulator to see constant air pressure
Last edited by knighttwister; Jan 27, 2013 at 08:12 AM.
Jan 31, 2013, 11:12 PM
Registered User
riterudder59's Avatar
I have the Hitec Aurora A9 . Give me a call and i will come over and help.

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