Berkeley 1/2A Piper Super Cub - RC Groups
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Jan 19, 2013, 07:19 AM
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Question

Berkeley 1/2A Piper Super Cub


I found this old kit at a surplus shop for $7 with a plan date of 1955. (I can't pass up a cheap kit! lol) It shows .049 for power and control line flying or rubber power free flight. I couldn't find any info at RC Groups (but I could have missed it). Anyone have any leads or experience converting this plane to R/C or have advice? Thanks!
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Jan 19, 2013, 10:12 AM
Two left thumbs
I've not had that particular Berkeley kit, but based on the several I have had, I'd guess that you'll have no problem converting it. However, the wood is probably junk. They didn't use good wood in the first place, and it's certainly not gotten any better with age! Scan the die cut sheets on a color (yes, color!) copier. The color copy will give very crisp results. Use the scans as patterns to cut parts from new balsa. You can get 1/20" thickness wood, which Berkeley kits used a lot, from such places as Lone Star Balsa http://lonestar-balsa.com/ and Specialized Balsa http://www.specializedbalsa.com/

Berkeley kits are designed robustly, so don't expect a light finished model. Be sensible on wood selection, and it'll have reasonable weight and fly well.

Check the scale electric forum and you'll find some Berkeley r/c conversions.

Geoff
Jan 19, 2013, 10:35 AM
Registered User
I never thought of wood getting old. Something worth researching. Thanks for the tip. I thought the kit wood was kinda "rustic" looking. I like your idea of scanning the die cut sheets. Balsa sheets are cheap compared to buying a whole kit. The box says the palen weighs 4 1/5 Oz. That seems pretty light. I suppose once a 3 Oz engine and R/C is added it will be a bit more. My only concern is that since it's designed for free flight or C/L that adding R/C equipment may be too heavy for the design. I fly pretty mild so maybe it will be OK since the design is "robust:. Thanks.
Jan 19, 2013, 05:49 PM
Two left thumbs
Use the tiny Spektrum Rx and servos, and trade wood for carbon fiber wherever it makes sense, and you can make it light. IIRC, it has a 36" span, and much smaller models have been converted and flown well. Here's a Berkeley Aeronca Sedan, from the same kit series, done with electric power: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...sedan+berkeley
Last edited by GeoffinIN; Jan 19, 2013 at 06:01 PM.
Feb 10, 2013, 10:36 AM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffinIN
Use the tiny Spektrum Rx and servos, and trade wood for carbon fiber wherever it makes sense, and you can make it light. IIRC, it has a 36" span, and much smaller models have been converted and flown well. Here's a Berkeley Aeronca Sedan, from the same kit series, done with electric power: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...sedan+berkeley
Hey Geoff, That's my Aeronca Sedan, still flyable. Build it as light as you can, reduce wing incidence for RC vs free-flight.Incorporate wing tip washout. Model Aeroncas have tip stalling tendecies. Don't fly tail heavy. Use light covering like Microlite, etc. for best flyability. Beef up landing gear mounting, keep rear fuselage as light as possible to avoid need for excess nose ballast. I used a 3S 800mah battery pack with Esskay 400XT outrunner and 7x4 GWS DD prop. You could use a lighter motor with a light weight model.
Feb 10, 2013, 10:39 AM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffinIN
Use the tiny Spektrum Rx and servos, and trade wood for carbon fiber wherever it makes sense, and you can make it light. IIRC, it has a 36" span, and much smaller models have been converted and flown well. Here's a Berkeley Aeronca Sedan, from the same kit series, done with electric power: https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show...sedan+berkeley
Hey Geoff, That's my Aeronca Sedan, still flyable. Build Cub as light as you can, reduce wing incidence for RC vs free-flight.Incorporate wing tip washout.. Don't fly tail heavy. Use light covering like Microlite, etc. for best flyability. Beef up landing gear mounting, keep rear fuselage as light as possible to avoid need for excess nose ballast.Should fly on Tee Dee .020 power, you may need to locate battery pack and RC gear forward if using lighter 1/4A glow power. Use PET G clear plastic for windshield and side windows, does not craze and crack. Keep raw 1/2A fuel off of windshield,etc., will turn milky.

I used a 3S 800mah battery pack with Esskay 400XT outrunner and 7x4 GWS DD prop for my Aeronca, overkill!
Last edited by E-Challenged; Feb 10, 2013 at 10:46 AM.
Feb 10, 2013, 10:46 AM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
Oops, duplicate reply!
Feb 14, 2013, 04:29 PM
Two left thumbs
Yeah, E-C, I guess you wanted to make sure we got it!

Any progress, pspring?
Feb 27, 2013, 10:18 AM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
Like a lot of us, the spirit is willing but.....starting and finishing ........
Mar 03, 2013, 08:54 AM
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Sorry for late reply. I was not subscribed. E-C you are right! My spirit says "Lets build!". But alas, no progress... Too busy keeping 4 cars running and spinning the plates of life that come with a family and a job. The other detriment is being spoiled by being brought up on a farm where I could walk to my flying sites. Which were an alfalfa field, used for landing gliders and test flying, a tar road with no traffic for my Kadet Jr, and a cow pasture for flying control line (cows kept the grass mowed near the dirt). Didn't know about AMA rules till just lately after getting back into the hobby so now I need to join a club since I live in suburbia and can damage others property.

I don't know about you guys, but what helps me get fired up is this website. Seeing builds and chatting with hobby type people, which are not very common in the general public. I will definitely post a build log to share once I get going. Maybe this summer.
Mar 03, 2013, 10:43 AM
Registered User
Quote:
Originally Posted by E-Challenged
Like a lot of us, the spirit is willing but.....starting and finishing ........
I have no problem with the starting part, it's just the finishing part! At least 5 or 6 started and 3 or 4 in some need of repair with plans of starting another one.

John
Mar 03, 2013, 04:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rubbernecker
I have no problem with the starting part, it's just the finishing part! At least 5 or 6 started and 3 or 4 in some need of repair with plans of starting another one.

John
LOL Same problem here. Maybe finishing projects doesn't matter as long as we're having fun flitting from project to project and dreaming about the next!?
Mar 04, 2013, 07:04 PM
I like thermals
I've been following this thread and could not resist a reply: count me in as another member of the "I start more than I finish" model building club.

I eventually get around to finishing a lot of them....eventually......
Mar 11, 2013, 01:54 PM
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E-Challenged's Avatar
pspring,

Yeah, join AMA and a club, on balance, it's worth it. You'll find few actual builders in clubs nowadays but lots of foamie-of-the-month buyer/fliers. Hey, there's a marketing idea for Hobby King.
Mar 12, 2013, 12:51 PM
Registered User
Yep I gotta get off my but and join a club, and get AMAinized too. But in reverse order.


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